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Basic Requirements


ade hill

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Hi guys, after many hours of reading and us discussing what is actually needed for a new pup, ive decided to turn this over to you all, and get some definitive answers.

As you know , claire and are are looking to start our pack very soon, and we wish to know what equipment would be best to have once we have the pup.

We have already changed the garden as we thought we were rehoming earlier in the year, but that fell through, and our garden is now enclosed with a 6 ft (ish) fence, and all plants are in pots....

we got rid of most of the stuff we had when our last dog passed away in february.

What this refers to are items such as cages, brushes, puppy food (its been 10 years since i had a pup), and more specialised equipment and food stuffs/treats that a husky may need, almost like a "welcome home pack" for when it (he....but dont tell claire) arrives.

Thanks in advance.

Ade and Claire

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It's been a while since I had a pup (a good 2 1/2 years now!) but the next time I bring a pup home I will have:

- a crate (if you don't want to crate train, you will need bedding for the pup to sleep on)

- food and water bowls

- a collar, don't buy an expensive one yet as the pup will quickly grow out of it

- a leash - for a pup I like to start them on something light weight so it's not too heavy for them when they are still getting used to the leash

- Chat to your breeder about what food they are feeding the pup and what they advise you to continue feeding, buy whatever it is they are feeding the pup. If you want to change the food over it will need to be done gradually.

- You might like to get a couple of basic toys - don't go crazy though as I guarantee the pup won't touch half of them, hehe

- I like to train with little pieces of roast or boiled chicken with pups, nothing too fatty or rich for them

- Have a look for any reputable puppy school classes in your area you might like to take the pup to, or any obedience classes you might like to enroll him in. Don't wait to start training until problems arise!

Once the pup is a bit older, a good quality collar and leash are essential IMO. I have three really well made leather leashes with brass clasps and they will last forever. I also stay clear of any collars with plastic clasps/clips, I either use martingales or flat collars with a stainless steel or brass buckle.

There isn't much more I can think of that is really essential. There so much out there you can buy for pups now and 90% of that stuff is gimmicks!

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good advice, Bec, rep added

I would also look at getting together some old towels or sheets, the pup is gonna chew stuff, it may as well be stuff you don't mind getting shredded!

ask the breeder to give you some of their food they are already feeding, then at least you will have a day or two to get your own if you've not managed to sort that out, or to gradually change the food; the breeder should be happy to do that.

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all as been said lol so good luck with your new pup, i also from day one got Odin used to the comb and brush they dont need doing much at first but best to get used to it from the start as my other Topaz i got at 2yo and i have to pin her down to brush at first, also i brushed his teeth from the start.

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Practice you can't get something for nothing. Training starts early. Make it fun. Always make them do something to get something. Want to eat, you sit and wait till I tell you can. Start few seconds and slowly build up. Shows that you control the most important resource-food. Want out, you sit and wait no rushing. Crate training- get the biggest crate now that he can grow into and block off area with movable walls or boxes, so he can begin housetraing. Puppies are only good for short periods.

Get a good or save up for good vacuum. Furminator brush!! Newspaper. Stainless steel bowls. Read up on the breed-Huskies for Dummies. Never give up!!

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Getting them a toy rope. It really helped Kremlin getting over his teething and he still loves to chew it.

Just a bit of warning on this one, dont get one of these rope toys with the frilly bits coming off them

rope.jpg

Trust me from someone who learnt the hard way. An adult dog can chew these to bits and swallow bits here and there perfectly safely (what goes in must come out right?). Pups can the same however when Kimba was small he was ripping bits off these, then ending up in screaming pain when he 'went' as it was full of bits of rope.

On another note I would suggest before doing anything, speaking to your breader regarding what you should go out and buy. Not because they will know better, but simply because some breeders will give you certain things when they give you the pup to start you off. I know my parents did that with all there's (Dunc & Susan). Cant remember what was in it exactly but I do know there was a collar, a few puppy pads, food etc. Also it is well worth checking on what they have being fed as being consistant to begin with even if you want to change him/her over to barf or something later will probably be a good idea.

As for necessaties. I would say the following, although I will probably think of a few more later



  • Crate - Also ensure you know where you are putting it to stay as they will get used to where it is (although as they grow up they wont give a damn where you put it lol). On this one when you get it always ensure its open and accessable during the day. Ensure there is somethign comfy in there and expect it to end up shredded eventually. Put their toys in there when your cleaning up etc. This should be done to ensure they know it is their 'safe place' that they can go whenever they like and will benifit you a lot in the future. Ours go and lye down to sleep in theirs when they are tired themselves.

  • Puppy Pads - You will go through a hell of a lot of these. Buy yourself them in big packs, it'll save you a fortune rather than buying them in bits at the supermarket.

  • Poo bags - Again get plenty as you will use more when they are a pup for the simple reason you will end up putting the puppy pads in them.

  • Cleaning stuff & Air freshener - Now that sounds a ridiculous thing to mention, but you'll be glad I did. Trust me, just get em lol. Dog + house + poo + wee + nightime. Guessin ya get the picture on that one lol

  • Food - As said above, find out what food they are giving at the breeders and get the same on to begin with. Dont get too much though incase you find it upsets stomach. Sibes can be fussy buggers at times in the stomach department and will have not been on the food for too long so be prepared to change if needed. ALWAYS ensure you give them plenty of time to get used to the food before you discount it however, would usually say a couple of week.

  • Furminator - Yep, these brushes we keep going on about. You wont use one when so small, but once you've gone one, you got one LOL

  • Toilet Roll Tubes - Never throw out another toilet roll tube untill you get the pup. They absolutly love playin with them and they cost you nothing.

  • Collar - Read smeagles post above, which gives an accurate view of what to get

  • INSURANCE - make sure you know what insurance your getting, and more importantly what your getting for the money. Some are very cheap but annoying lol

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Just in regards to puppy pads/ putting paper down -

I personally don't like to use them. When I have pups, I take them out to toilet, and prefer not to teach them to toilet inside at all. It just eliminates one of the 'steps' of toilet training - instead of teaching them to go on paper/pee pads, then getting them to learn to go outside, I just teach them to toilet outside from day one.

Obviously, if you live in an apartment and need them to learn to toilet in one spot inside then you can disregard the above :P I've trained both ways (paper inside; or no paper and just toileting outside) and I've found the latter to be far easier in the long run.

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Just in regards to puppy pads/ putting paper down -

I personally don't like to use them. When I have pups, I take them out to toilet, and prefer not to teach them to toilet inside at all. It just eliminates one of the 'steps' of toilet training - instead of teaching them to go on paper/pee pads, then getting them to learn to go outside, I just teach them to toilet outside from day one.

Obviously, if you live in an apartment and need them to learn to toilet in one spot inside then you can disregard the above :P I've trained both ways (paper inside; or no paper and just toileting outside) and I've found the latter to be far easier in the long run.

Your theory is good Becs apart from the fact that puppies should not be going outside at all for there 1st 12 weeks our till they have had there 2nd lot of inoculations.

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Your theory is good Becs apart from the fact that puppies should not be going outside at all for there 1st 12 weeks our till they have had there 2nd lot of inoculations.

It might be different in the UK, because here even people who follow the vacc rules that closely let their pups in the backyard from the day they get them home (i.e. eight weeks). The diseases that our pups can catch come from unvaccinated dogs, not things that live in our backyard.

I don't know if what you vaccinate for in the UK is different to what we vacc for here, or if the risks of your pups catching things are higher over there. However, I (and most trainers/behaviourists etc) prefer to strike up a balance between socialising my pup in what is their most critical developmental period (8-12 weeks) and therefore the most crucial time for pups to be socialised, and protecting my pup from disease. IMO, there is more risk keeping a pup couped up at home and therefore not socialising them in their critical period than there is the pup will catch a disease like parvo.

We take our pups out and about as much and as safely as we can between 8-12 weeks so they can have loads of different and positive social experiences, from travelling in the car to going to the vet to meeting new people, vaccinated and known (i.e. family/friends) animals, being near/on public transport, the local shops, crowded places, hearing loud noises, being handled by different people etc etc. I carry them around a lot and expose them to many positive experiences outside of the home. I would never take a pup of this age to an area where other dogs frequent, like a park or beach etc, as you need to be sensible about the risk involved in taking a pup of that age out and about.

By 12 weeks most pups enter their first fear period and many people *start* socialising their pups at this age, but it's already too late as the pup's critical socialisation period has been and gone and any negative experience they have during this fear period can stay with the pup for the rest of their life. I actually tone down socialisation when the pup is in his fear period for this reason.

So the whole keeping a pup inside until they are 12 weeks is a decision that's up to the individual, I and many others chose to socialise rather than keep the pup at home as I see the risk of behaviourial issues emerging as far bigger than the risk the pup might catch something. Obviously, it's up the to the individual to decide on what they are most comfortable with and to weigh up the risks. But I've never heard from anyone - people who strictly abide by the 'wait till the pup is fully vaccinated' rule including vets - that a pup can't go in their own backyard before they are vaccinated. Perhaps it's different in the UK?

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