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  2. I wish I could find an old post I did. I had pics and everything. Does anyone know how to pull up old post? I think it was in June, for sure under Training, not sure if I started the post or not.... I started with my crates in the middle of the living room. I put the crates together when I got them and left the doors open. Every time they went in on their own I said Kennel and gave them a treat. Never shutting the door. Then I started feeding them in their crates. I would say Kennel, once they were in and setting I put their food inside quietly shutting the door. As soon as they were done eating (before they made any noise) I would open the door saying release. I left the crates in the living open during the day. Continuing to treat every time they went in on their own. Plus feed them in there. Soon they napped on their own in their own crates. Once they did this I made it move advance. *All this time working on Set, stay/wait, release, down, kennel, and yes nap time.* After feedings I would extend the time they stayed in their crate using wait when they whined. This is slow and steady. I am talking 30 seconds, then a minute, increasing by 30 seconds at each level. *please keep in mind I was training two pups at once so it took a lot longer and I had to keep both personalities in mind and if one was having an off day* Now 9 months and kennels are in the bedroom; they know after eating they lay down for 30 minutes in their crates. They nap in their crates, if they want a treat they will go in and lay down then (tell me) they are ready. LOL Normally midday. Or if one is cranky or wants to chew on something without the other one bothering them they go in their crate. *I trained them to stay out of each other’s crate.* I am a stay at home, so as that is a good thing I had two.... I also found they love their schedule. If we get off schedule the boy gets pouty and gives me the stink eye and mopes. LOL Eat about 5:30 am lays back down until 7 am, walk before 10 depending on how cold it is LOL for an hour and half. Hangout until around noon. Crate with chewy *good day about an hour and a half* Go for another walk, hangout, then dinner 5:30, after 30 minutes of rest playtime, then bed time.... It is important to have them rest after eating 30 minutes . I wait 2 hours before and after feedings before long walks or hard play time. This helps keep the chance of bloat down. Crates work great for this. Plus if they ever have surgery or long stay at a vet, crate training now will keep them from being stressed when vet stays are needed. Or just to keep them out of trouble. I do not personally crate mine for leaving the house or at night. I am training them to be loose in the house with Limited access (one room) while I am gone for short periods of time. But I do keep up on their crate training just in case something happens and they have to be in crates. Start now! Go slow, DO NOT use as a punishment. (I have used it as a time out- never yell or say bad dog, I just say Kennel time and give them a treat: they can get on each other’s nerves sometimes) LOL Plus at this stage, just randomly putting them in for short periods is good to do. Ooo my post maybe under toy possessive... I will advise if I find it. LOL
  3. My Darla Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
  4. Today
  5. Ya poo! That is so awesome. And a bed tonight. 😀 Happy to hear he is eating something. Hopefully the test comes back sooner and answers all your questions.
  6. What a gorgeous pup. The best thing to introduce them into a crate that is that the size that will fit them when they are fully grown from nose to base of tail; and the one way to do it is once they've got their bedding in or something not too chewable is to get them in by throwing a treat through the open door ..let them go and pick it up; as soon as they bend to pick it up to eat shut the door quietly (slamming it is not going to help at all) and repeat this for a few times and then gradually start lengthening the time in, with that door shut and give them praise & give them a treat and then let them out ... don't let them stay in long enough to then start whining and scratching because when you do let them out that would be a cue to them to say "hey if I make a fuss I can get out" - you want them to remain quiet with the words of praise and a little treat through the crate; make sure the crate's in an area they can see you from, when you do start closing the door for longer periods, say, working around the house popping out the back to the bin coming back in ... so they can see you and know you're aroun. I always have the radio on as well and I cover the top 2/3 of my crate and ... for my two it is an extra extra large one as mine are husky X malamutes and they both go into this when required but otherwise one sleeps in, one sleeps out, decided at night with them; the crate or the bed by airing cupboard door beside them & sitting room door (closed) behind, so there is a niche there in the corner. It's slow but look at successdogs.com - he recommends this kind of training for an introduction my aren't kept locked up indoors, if I go out; they have 24/7 access out to a secure rear run and shelters and they use the crate alternatively during the day if they want to snooze and rest or sleep on the runner in the kitchen as the crate is in the inner hall atrium (bungalow). 🤗
  7. Hi, We have had Luna since she was 5 1/2 weeks old and she just turned 8 weeks Saturday gone. Since we had her she has been sleeping with us on our bed. I have read that it’s good to crate train them for when we have to go out of the house etc. Is it still possible to crate train her? What size crate would you recommend and any tips on the best way to train her to feel happy in her crate would be great. Just to add that Luna hasn’t had an accident for 3 days. She goes to the back door when she needs to go toilet and last night my boyfriend let her out at 2am and then she slept until I got up for work at 7am. She’s doing really well for being just 8 weeks old right? She also comes and sits when we ask her to 😬 Thanks Amanda
  8. A week is a long time to wait when he’s so up and down, thank goodness he’s eaten, I really hope he’s turning a corner. Sent from my iPhone using Husky Owners
  9. Marley seems to have turned a corner in the last 24 hours although we have been here before when he rallied - only to crash again but I am cautiously optimistic . He did two small poos yesterday and one this morning so I can take the samples into the vet today and start him on the antibiotics. I've been syringing bone broth into him and yesterday even managed to get some warmed cooked chicken and raw beef into him - not a lot - but more than he has eaten in 5 days. This morning he ate half a tin of sardines - hubby said he was ravenous - but could not eat any more than half a tin. He went upstairs this morning - so we are all going to bed tonight . He pulled hubby on his morning walk and even went to the park for the first time in a week (around half a mile away) and hubby said he really seemed to be enjoying it. It will be a week before the blood and poo test results are back but by this time next week we should know exactly what is going on.
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  11. It’s probably a fleeting moment. The rescue organization needs verification from the Homeowners Association that they will allow the dog. And ours not only bans huskies but puts a limit at 2 dogs. We have flown under the radar for over 6 years so no sense of bringing any attention to us Not that I expected to get a fourth dog but that takes care of any decision I would make. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. Yesterday
  13. It’s heartbreaking reading this, so lord knows how you’re coping, you must be exhausted. I hope the vet can give you some answers and quickly, take care x Sent from my iPad using Husky Owners
  14. What a handsome trio! Apart from the cost of an extra one, I can’t see how it’d make a difference really, as long as they’ll all get along. Sent from my iPad using Husky Owners
  15. Thanks Maz for all the information😁. I've been working him up and building up walks and my hobby is walking and hiking so huskies are perfect hiking buddies. I walk all weather wind rain just not in the heat. I think he will enjoy a run out now and again with the scooter.
  16. You're lucky to do those distances as With my neck issue (degenerative spondylosis or, crumbling bones), wrecked knees (Anterior CLs, & sides) and now my Rt hip, but I can manage up to five miles with rests, and usually do between 2 to 3 and, if I'm really bad, I take them out on my mobility scooter which they"re goid to run beside ne each side! off my canibelt. I can easily do five or more miles however do need to build up their stamina. It's great fun.. too. Yes a lifeline to your canibelt, but whichever side they may 'dart' to (if prey drive kicks in), dictates whether you get pulled over and can stop, or even steer to, or dragged over. 🤗 Really work on gee, haw, here! (To come back to you asap and sit), Ease up!/Easy! .. Wait! (when approaching a curb, or multichoice turn), Walk on, Straight on, On on! On on! (to keep going regardless) about turn -gee/haw (180° turn). In early training, do praise and treat when able; I carry a waist treat bag. And always bring water for them. BTW it is advised to give four hours respite after food before heavy exercise . Nor feed within an hour after. Bloating can kill. They'll drink what they need, however encourage them to have a break, and or at least not drink a huge amount. If setting off again, let their breathing settle enough to catch their second wind. I start with 200 yard sprints, rest then return a bit slower. Increase after three days and so on. Athletes are advised to rest alternate days in training, so do this too re runs, but walk out instead in between. I don't do longer than 1 mile runs, each way as thisis thecmax length I have on a friendly farmer's land. Running on mixed surfaces of (brief) tarmac, concrete, plus packed earth / gravel, mud and grass will toughen up their pads. Booties can & do protect them, not keep them warm especially in cutting ice conditions. They can get ice burns & grazes, so check pads, ... and your tack regularly, keep clean/rinsed through, re stitching and tearing.
  17. Maz thanks for the info I do 14 mile walks regular with him now. I use gloves as I live in a rural area and walk him on 50 ft leash and he's clever at going after pheasants and hare so I get rope burns. If when you have the time a photo of your rig would be helpful. I do have a walking belt which the suicide line might attach too? I use the belt hiking its a well padded one for Huskies. I only have one husky so its an extra form of excercise for him. Currently he gets two good walks a day unless I'm off out for a long walk on the moors. I bought some mushers secret wax ready for winter. He likes to run but I'm not a runner hence the scooter.
  18. It's often called 'the suicide line'! You can get some nylon rope tie a figure of 8 stop knot onto his collar, or, harness through a 'D' ring and this goes back to you around your chest (some say they tie it to their left arm but if you want a dislocated arm/shoulder I wouldn't!) And I have come off, but refused to let go of the handlebars! Yelling Whoah! Wait! also worked! I have another line that runs to a bag in front of me to grab and remove to wrap around a tree ( attached to the rig to hold the difs in place should I need to, to then step off my three wheel rig. When standing on with disc brakes and on, it is quite hard fir my two to really pull me away... but not if I step off it! Unless a buddy can hold them. Elbow & Knee pads/protectors night be useful too. Mine can kick off & hit nearly 30mph then settle to between 8 to 12 to 18mph depending on terrain & levels You want strong legs to help them move on rough ground, mud etc so good grip footwear too on feet - maybe high ankle ones to protect against twisted ankles!walking a lot with them helps get them fitter, and you! Yoy'll be surprised how fast you can get tired pyshingto fet them through boggy ground and a goid musher always helps their digs, even getting off and running with rig or scooter or bike; takes some practice get back on board too! Good gloves to grip with, but also to avoid scraped flesh! Serious racers may wear lycra, but I'm all for warmth, and all over protection! Lol. Locking carabiners /a swivel one if you don't want a twisted line. 🤗
  19. Thanks for the info. I'm wondering how to hook the secondary line up. I know one is from scooter to dog but how does the second line work. Unfortunately there are no clubs up near me in the North. I won't be ru ning him on the hard as I know it's bad for paws. I'm I getting a go pro mainly for safety.
  20. If you go to Snowpaws or Hooners or any other husky related site for joring - bike, scooter or rig/parts accessories, you can buy single or 2 or 3 or 4 or more dog-line leads for pulling a rig or a scooter or, hooking up.. to a bike; and they will best advise you what you need, to hitch up, what is safe, for you and your dog. Do you make sure you have a secondary safety line or rope from dog to you. I would also not go out at all on your own; if you came off or hurt yourself, or something happens to your furkid, you need somebody there to pick you up and get you home and sort the dog out as well so please be very careful where you run. I'm not sure which part of the country you're in but you need to also make sure that you are not breaking any bylaws of the Council .. public pavements are out and not good for the joints on the dog anyway... public footpaths may be ok but I will get landowners permission if you are near a farm or anywhere in private property, and you need to be really extra careful with a livestock stock around particularly. Get good strong bungee cord depending what your dog is. The smaller Siberians don't need as big shock bungee cord as I have for my two husky malamute because they are just over 12 Stone combined and they also pull a three-wheel running rig, but I do have a poor Pawtrekker scooter; there is another gadget you can get call the Tug and Tow and if you google this and search for it you may be able to find it - not very cheap but it has a retractable line on a spring and then you're not having to worry about the lead dropping and winding roubd your rig, or running over it so yeah there are choices but do look around and ask more on other husky sites too especially the running ones and the sports husky running ones I think Anyway.. good luck! Also - check out insurance cover because your normal pet insurance does not cover you or dog, in rig running.. and you'll only get Third Party cover; in the unfortunate event that you or your dog and rig, bike or scooter end up hurting somebody else. In the event it is somebody else's fault I would certainly advise you get a pro-cam camera that you wear either on your helmet (very wise to have protective gear on) a harness on your body in front so you can also have a cover to argue your case if it isn't your fault .. should anything happen this is really important I've I've learnt that from reading lots of other people's posts and even walking out the dog a lot of people now have a camera or something to log it, and witness if another dog coming out to attack your dog or in the event their dog is off lead and yours isn't.. there's lots of things that you need to watch out for with huskies because they are generally very friendly but they can also become quite aggressive and defensive aggressive in the event of any other dog coming round to them. The Forest of Dean by the way, also have running days and tracks.. but you need a permit however I believe (because I've waited over 5 years for a permit) ... if you can find someone already in.. to go as their guest then you can have a go at doing some 'fun runs' and with friends. I spent a year walking my dogs out in harness on a canibelt while I saved for my 3wheel rig, and taught them indoors - spinning Gee and Haw but also re teaching them the word 'leave' to 'On by ' and to pass or overtake with 'Go by' ... there are other commands they've learned to 'ease up' and stop 'Whoa!' or 'wait'. And I've just about mastered a 180 degree turn to reverse direction and retrace... there's a lot to do, you've got the one dog - you can teach from Successdogs.com. It also teaches you how to get the spin right doing it indoors first. I would certainly suggest you have a look at that site because it proved very very useful for me! [emoji847] Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
  21. Hi, Learning my boy the commands just got myself a great second hand scooter. When I'm looking at the rig and Google there is lots of contradictions on it. I would like some advice from someone who does use a scooter to excercise their sibe. What's the length of the line recommended please. I do have a 6ft long bungee leash plus harness which is a husky harness. Is 6ft leash long enough or would I need to attach this to a longer gangline.
  22. Yep.. gradual lengthening times of absence...better if whilst in a crate (so safe) with soft /fav toys and an article with your scent on, but.. where they can begin to see you from, if you're in the kitchen. I have a radio on all day on low on BBC 2 altho' classic is soothing for them. Here's what I did with mine - going out in the car.. as I think GETTING out as much as you can is also very good, to desensitise them in a town/busy environment, including around ither dogs too... and, I cannot emphasise how important all/any training is vital NOW ..with this highly intelligent breed... Hope this is ok.. just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA.... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. 😉😁 This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home), winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions from my being out of sight too! Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. and, you can also see them. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say OK .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've grabbed their leads! (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). [ALL pets must be either secured or in a fitted & secured crate inside a vehicle.] Several thousand pound fine possible. I also use 'Wait' on walks; every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait' ! Xxx. 🤗😘
  23. I can't imagine going from 3 to 4 will be much different apart from the obvious cost , you might find it gives them a new lease of life too , Bings was like 10 years older than the sibes and he never stopped running around with them, he was always a fun energetic playful dog anyway but he was even more so with his new pals lol Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
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  25. He is still really young. Take it slow. If you have a dirty T shirt or something with your smell on it, that he won’t eat, would be a good idea.
  26. Alright thank you for the advice I will give this a try , hopefully it helps my puppy getting over it
  27. 🤪. It’s an addiction! Your three appear so happy. I would make sure they met the pup. If they accept him, go for it. It will be one more Husky that will have a good home.
  28. Ok so there like a 10% chance but I have a fleeting thought about adopting a 4th husky. For those of you that have gone from 3 to 4 what kind of advice could you give? Right not Kodiak is about 8 or 9, Nikko is about to turn 7, and Yukon just turned 6. Kodiak is average energy; Nikko is still hyper as ever and Yukon is a chill low energy husky. The one that I was thinking about is 10 months old male that is neutered. I always said 3 is my max but I’m actually kind of considering adopting him. Looking for any advice or comments. Below are pics my pack and the potential newbie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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