Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 When people talk about puppy socialization they are generally referring to the first 16 weeks of a dog's life. This is the window of time in our puppy's lives that determines who they will become as adult dogs. The temperament, character and behavior habits of your puppy are developed during this socialization period - and will last a lifetime. It affects how your puppy will relate to his family, strangers, animals and the environment in which he lives. Puppy socialization stimulates the five senses of your young dog. It is the introduction, exposure and desensitization to the sights, sounds, smells, tastes and touch of everyday life. The socialization period conditions your puppy to the many different situations he needs to be familiar with and comfortable around. It also prepares him to deal with the new experiences and challenges which inevitably arise throughout life in an appropriate manner. Puppy socialization is the crucial stage where you begin to build the close bond you share with your dog, one that will last forever. It's up to you - any puppy can become a well adjusted and trusted member of society through proper socialization. We owe it to our puppies to provide them with thorough socialization and training - all dogs need to be socialized regardless of breed type, where you bought the puppy from or anything else you may think of. There are two main types of puppy socialization: Active - Things we purposely introduce to our dogs like obedience training, visiting new people and rides in the car. Passive - What your puppy comes across in her own time like exploring the plants in the back yard. Note: Always check with your Veterinarian prior to starting your puppy socialization. Socializing your puppy is a balancing act between the need for your puppy's education and experience against the necessity of safeguarding him from disease. Why Is It So Important To Socialize Our Puppies? * The puppy socialization period (especially the first 16 weeks) is the most critical time for shaping your dog's future temperament, character and behavior habits. If you miss out on socializing your puppy during this period you cannot simply go back and fix the problems later. * Preventing problems through proper socialization is a much more attractive alternative than trying to correct the undesirable behavior (barking, object guarding, chewing, separation anxiety, dog to dog aggression etc.) that arises from a lack of socialization. * Puppy socialization is an essential ingredient in building and strengthening the bond you will share with your dog throughout his life. The time you put in now will be well rewarded. Unsocialized Puppies Take A Very Different Path In Life Than A Dog Who Is Properly Socialized * Socializing your puppy has an even bigger influence over her behavior than the breed of dog (boxer, beagle etc.) she is - it's that important. * A socialized puppy is well placed to think, learn and problem solve (including obedience training), where's a fearful stressed dog (unsocialized) is severely restricted in this area. * A well socialized dog will happily accept change, new people, challenges and will interact appropriately with other animals. * Puppy socialization prepares your puppy for the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Things like the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, lawn mower, cats, TV and whatever else life throws at him. * Puppy socialization educates your dog about appropriate social interaction and how to inhibit aggression towards people and other animals. * Socialization feeds all of the senses and safely, positively promotes emotional and mental stimulation. What Happens If You Don't Properly Socialize Your Puppy? * An unfortunate but undeniable fact is that the number one reason why dogs end up being euthanized is through a lack of socialization (from the associated problems that arise). The sad part is that socializing your puppy isn't really that difficult. * If you miss the crucial puppy socialization period it's not something you can catch up on later - you have deadlines you must meet! * You end up with a dog that is an outcast to society, one that doesn't fit in and can't be trusted. Sadly there are many dogs in this very situation living out their days permanently confined to the back yard. * Dogs who miss the critical socialization period often exhibit shyness, aggression, timidity, fear towards people, dogs and other animals. They are also often inept at relating with other dogs. * If your puppy is deprived of early social stimulation the result is her physical and emotional health can be irreversibly compromised. * Unexpected events and new experiences are not well received by unsocialized dogs. What we strive for in our dogs is a happy balance between them being cautious and having the confidence to accept and explore new things. When Does The Puppy Socialization Period Begin? Pretty much the moment your puppy comes into this world the socialization and habituation window is open. 1. The mother of your pup begins the socialization process through massaging your puppy with her tongue to control his elimination, also through sound, smell and body language. She is also responsible for giving your puppy his first lesson in discipline. 2. Litter mates (siblings) learn from each other through play time and social interaction. They discover many aspects of being a dog including how to inhibit their bite and also the language of dominance and submission. 3. The breeder plays a crucial role in the first 7-8 weeks of your puppy's life. He/she should handle the puppies during this critical period, getting them used to human scent and touch. A good breeder will also begin to get your puppy accustomed to proper household etiquette, noises and basic training. How Do I Socialize My Puppy? Ideally at about the 8 week mark your puppy will arrive at your home, which will be his home for life. Your responsibility to provide him proper socialization starts immediately, you're in control, it's in your hands. This is the beginning of the primary socialization window - make the most of it! Note: Avoid any situations during this first couple of weeks at home that will scare your puppy (often called the fear impact period). Any major scare (like an aggressive dog approaching) can emotionally damage your pup forever. * Puppy house training, crate training and chew toy training should commence as soon as your new housemate arrives. This is all part of the puppy socialization process, it establishes proper household etiquette, reinforces desirable behavior and prevents bad habits from forming. * Pick your puppy up, stroke her belly, touch her all over while gently talking to her. Also invite other people to do the same. * For your dog's safety and to establish a close bond it's important to begin some obedience training right away. Teach some basic commands such as sit, down, stay and the recall. * Involve your new puppy in everything you can (isn't this why you got your puppy in the first place?), always under close supervision. Just get her familiar and comfortable with all of the daily routines and happenings of her new household. This is her environment now, we want her to be relaxed and comfortable around things like the vacuum cleaner, dishwasher, TV and noisy children. * It's essential that your puppy meets as many people as possible before he reaches 12 weeks of age. As his vaccinations won't be completed by this stage, it's best if the people come to him. Always make visits a fun, non-threatening experience for your little pup. Encourage play, treats and touch between your visitors and your puppy. If you're game you can also visit some friends with immunized and trustworthy cats or dogs. * Groom your dog, bathe her and clip her nails. * Allow your puppy to explore your home, inside and out. Continue to supervise him but allow him to check things (pot plants, lawn mower, toys etc.) out for himself. * Take your puppy for a boat ride, in an elevator or to the Vet. Anywhere you expect he may need to go as an adult you should expose him to it now - in a safe, non threatening and controlled fashion. * Give your puppy some new toys and play some games with him. Anything that stimulates his mind and makes him problem solve is brilliant for his development. You can play games of hide and seek or build some obstacle courses for him to navigate his way through. * Take your puppy with you on short car trips. Visit some friends or sit at the train station and watch some trains roll by. I don't recommend off leash dog parks as it's hard to know which dogs are vaccinated and of sound temperament. As I mentioned earlier a bad experience during the socialization period can scar your puppy for life. * Once the final canine vaccination shots are done it is a great idea to get along to a good puppy kindergarten. Your puppy will continue to develop her social skills (bite inhibition) in a friendly and safe environment. * As soon as the final vaccinations are completed you can start to get out and about even more. Take your puppy on walks to meet with other dogs, cats and other animals. Also encourage people to come up and pet your puppy while on walks. I still like to avoid off leash dog parks - they're too risky for my liking. Apart from all of the puppy socialization tips listed above it's important to remember to always have fun with it. Puppy socialization is a fun time, you'll get great pleasure out of watching your pup experience new things for the first time. Enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 I have so much to say on this topic, LOL! Firstly I would consider the puppy development calendar. This outlines when the best time to socialise pups is, and when they are going through their fear periods. http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=117592 Secondly I am really interested in the concept of neutralisation. Socialisation is defined as giving your pup a new experience and assigning it a value. Neutralisation is socialising your pup, but giving it new experiences a low value... that is, you assign new experiences a 'neutral' value. Many trainers use this concept to teach a pup that everything except you/your family and what you can give that dog - your affection, praise, pats, food and prey items and anything of value - it neutral. This means that your dog sees you as the number one, the highest value thing out there and that it will never be tossing up between playing with another dog and coming when you call it, because essentially it sees other dogs as quite boring and having nothing to offer them. Often you socialise a puppy, teach it how great and high value everything else is, and then you have to undo that work by getting it to ignore those things in training. By teaching your pup from the get go that other distractions are neutral, you find training will go smoother and faster. I am still learning about neutralisation but the concept makes so much sense to me - and I think the next pup I get, will go through a neutralisation program. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex T Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Wow - that sounds great! Any links you can provide would be useful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted January 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 great link smeagle added to rep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 Wow - that sounds great! Any links you can provide would be useful! It sounds great doesn't it Some people have a problem over coming the initial idea.... you mean I won't teach my puppy that other people and dogs are the greatest thing on the planet??? LOL It can be tough taking a puppy out and about and not letting strangers or other people give it loads of attention or pats - or if you let them get attention, you call them back after a few seconds to give them lots of reward and praise. But for me, after socialising my beagle and teaching her that other people and dogs were just awesome, I found it VERY hard to get her focus back on me... quite simply I was not high enough value to her. I've also met numerous dogs who have been trained through neutralisation and the result is the most focused dog you've ever seen. You can read a couple of online discussion about neutralisation here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=150837 http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=43479&st=0&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianWolf Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 It sounds great doesn't it Some people have a problem over coming the initial idea.... you mean I won't teach my puppy that other people and dogs are the greatest thing on the planet??? LOL It can be tough taking a puppy out and about and not letting strangers or other people give it loads of attention or pats - or if you let them get attention, you call them back after a few seconds to give them lots of reward and praise. But for me, after socialising my beagle and teaching her that other people and dogs were just awesome, I found it VERY hard to get her focus back on me... quite simply I was not high enough value to her. I've also met numerous dogs who have been trained through neutralisation and the result is the most focused dog you've ever seen. You can read a couple of online discussion about neutralisation here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=150837 http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=43479&st=0&start=0 i am really interested in this has anyone here done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 i havent but i wish i had its rly hard 2 get blaze to focus speccially when he sees kids or other dogs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianWolf Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 there any way to get some reading material about this. went to the k9 website and didnt really say much on how they train this. would be nice to know before i go out and find a local trainer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rose Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 we took sisko to a nursing home yesterday to see my brothers friend & for a stroll around the town , sisko was a little apprehensive when in the town with all the goings on but coped well & let folks stroke her, i asked them to not stroke her head as she dosen't like that. I find it was best to let her walk up to folks quietly & not let them come & hover over her. She is getting better saying hi to people now but scared when she hears a dog bark. A bit spooked towards other dogs too but meets plenty of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 there any way to get some reading material about this. went to the k9 website and didnt really say much on how they train this. would be nice to know before i go out and find a local trainer How old is your puppy? Did you have a read of this thread: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=43479&st=0&start=0 It is an interesting, lengthy discussion about neutralisation and socialisation. I have not done it with my dogs as you need to start them from the time they are puppies. The key thing IMO to remember with the concept of neutralisation is that you are still getting your puppy out and about, meeting new people and giving it lots of new experiences. You let the puppy know that these things are ok, but that you are better. A friend of mine did it with his pup who he is training in protection (it is a GSD) so for example - if the pup meets a new person, my friend lets him sniff them and meet them but calls him back to him after 5-10 seconds and gives him a treat, or plays a game with him or whatever is most exciting and high value for the puppy. This basically shows them that yep, that's a stranger and they are nothing to be afraid of, but they are no where near as exciting as what I have to offer you. The trainer who wrote the article above does do puppy training courses but you need to start the pup on them pretty early on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianWolf Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 she is almost 10 weeks, ill read this post over again to see if i missed anything. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 she is almost 10 weeks, ill read this post over again to see if i missed anything. thanks It's not something that you are expected to be able to do of your own accord, so don't stress if you feel like you don't know how to go about it. Like I said I know the trainer does offer puppy raising packages that you do via distance (so it doesn't matter where you are located) but it is expensive, about $100 (Australian) a month and from memory the puppy course goes for four months. I do know people with huskies who have completed it and I will most likely do it with the next pup I raise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sqwidge Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 We took Eika to basketball yesterday and she was awesome!!! She didn't care about the balls bouncing, people shouting/screaming, kids being loud...anything, in fact she slept through most of it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siberian_wolf Posted April 6, 2009 Report Share Posted April 6, 2009 I must have missed this at some point excellant thread! I wish I took mine to puppy classes for socialisation, may have prevented Gizmo's "rude" behaviour! Now if I meet anyone who mentions about getting a puppy, I always advise to take them to something like puppy classes for socialisation. in fact she slept through most of it!!! aaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwww bless her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phwhat Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but how on earth do you get a puppy to not be scared of people? She's a bit over 3 months now. She runs away or pees where she's standing whenever someone approaches her. I think I'll start taking her to the park more often now... maybe this will help. haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but how on earth do you get a puppy to not be scared of people? She's a bit over 3 months now. She runs away or pees where she's standing whenever someone approaches her. I think I'll start taking her to the park more often now... maybe this will help. haha Hi V welcome to the site ppop up a seperate thread for this u will get more responses welcome again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyMukki Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Apart from all of the puppy socialization tips listed above it's important to remember to always have fun with it. Puppy socialization is a fun time, you'll get great pleasure out of watching your pup experience new things for the first time. Enjoy it. added to rep -thanks Sarah! I read this aloud to Quinn, we'll see.... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted April 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 hi welcome to the site. I would start off slowly, introduce her slowly, don't reinforce negative behaviour but give lots of praise when she does something right. Do you have many people in your house ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianWolf Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 It's not something that you are expected to be able to do of your own accord, so don't stress if you feel like you don't know how to go about it. Like I said I know the trainer does offer puppy raising packages that you do via distance (so it doesn't matter where you are located) but it is expensive, about $100 (Australian) a month and from memory the puppy course goes for four months. I do know people with huskies who have completed it and I will most likely do it with the next pup I raise. what do you mean that its not expected of me? and would you go this route personaly even if its a distance package.. really want the best for the pup so just want to know the best way to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 what do you mean that its not expected of me? and would you go this route personaly even if its a distance package.. really want the best for the pup so just want to know the best way to go Sorry, I just meant that it is not the kind of training you can do without some guidance - the info I've posted is just a basic guide to what it is all about, not a how to, if you know what I mean Yep I would definitely go this route myself, I am doing a distance package at the moment and it's great - not the puppy one but a training one and I love it, my dog loves it. However I couldn't tell you if it was the best for your pup - it depends on your goals, and how much work you want to do and what you feel is right. I'll PM you some more info so you can suss it out for yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 I'm not sure if this has been discussed...but how on earth do you get a puppy to not be scared of people? She's a bit over 3 months now. She runs away or pees where she's standing whenever someone approaches her. I think I'll start taking her to the park more often now... maybe this will help. haha edited... put it in your other thread! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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