toilet trainning and biting

[white-ice]

Hey Guys,

i've had shadow 2 weeks and i know he is a pup and we haven't had him long but i have some concerns, bothing too major.

1. toilet trainning, take him out he doesn't go. go inside he pee's?! what, now im not having a rant im finding it funny and frustrating at the same time.

2. biting, now he's not biting me. its my girlfriend, he starts biting her and doesnt stop until i step in.

any help ideas?

please be kind, no haters either.

[Sibe77]

Patients my friend you will need lots of it, the toilet thing my advise would be to go out with shadow and stay out untill he does his buisness making sure you have some kind of treat on you (Food) and really praise him for it, he is still a pup but will soon get the idea if he does it outside he will get a treat and a fuss made out of him.. be warned even when you think you have Shadow trained he might one day do his buisness in the house its there way of showing dominance, do not tell Shadow off for it unless you see him do it! sounds strange i know but telling him off 10 mins after he has done it will just confuse him.....

The biting thing is all playfull and being a pup you will have that especially as Shadow is probably teething, just be Patient and when he does it just give him a firm no and make sure your Girlfriend does the same as Shadow will see you as the dominant male but your girlfriend as an easy target, Sibes are always testing you to see if they can become the dominant one, mine is 9 1/2 months and he still tries it but he dont get very far.....

Hope this is in some way helpfull...

[Sarah]

hmmmm, firstly - congrats on your pup!! erm and where are our pics! lol

With him peeing inside instead of out - how long are you leaving him outside for? Try taking him out immediately after he's eaten, after waking up and after a play session, give lots of praise when he goes outside but ignore him when he goes inside, it may not seem like it at the moment but i promise you he will learn - you just gotta keep going

With the biting, this is more serious and needs to be stopped straight away. I'm presuming he's only doing it playfully with her but she needs to be the one to stop it, if you jump in and stop him then he won't see her as pack leader, try and get her to push down on his mouth - not so it hurts him, but just so it's uncomfortable, then he will remove his mouth of his own accord. Or close his mouth and give a firm NO ?

Hope this has helped a little bit, please keep us posted on how you're getting on though x

[Mazz]

Those are common issues with some Huskies. The bathrrom issue requires continued effort on your part. When Zoya was a puppy (she'll be a year old in a few weeks), we took her out at 30 minute intervals. When she did her duty outside, we praised her, brought her inside right away, and gave her a small treat. She still had accidents in the house. When we caught her in the act, we gave her a terse "NO", and took her outside immediately. Of course, if she did not do anything after a few minutes, we brought her back in, but no treat, no praise. If she did do some more duty outside, praise and treat followed. It took about a month before she was fully house broken.

Biting can become a real serious issue if not "bitten" in the bud early. Huskies do not like being ignored. They will almost give up anything to not be ignored. Again, Zoya was a biter. I actually have scars on my arm from her, where she sunk her razor sharp puppy teeth into me. I would take hold of the upper portion of her nose with my first two fingers inside her mouth and my thumb on top of her nose, gently squeeze, look her straight in the eyes, and then give her a resounding "NO". I would then give her one of her toys and ignore her for about ten minutes. If she started with the biting again, I would turn away from her and ignore her. Even today, she will try to mouth me, once in awhile. I simply ignore her and she so does not like that, that she is willing to forego the biting.

Don't know if this helps or not. I'm sure others will have some good ideas as well. Just don't let the little guy get under your skin to the point where you loose control of the situation. Are you using a crate at all? We also found crate training with Zoya to help a great deal with potty training.

[Sarah]

good advice Tony and Dave, added to rep

[white-ice]

Thanks for all the advice, seriously thanks you all.

Pics will follow tonight if he stays still for longer than 2mins!

dave could you expand on crate toilet trainning?

[Mazz]

What we did with Zoya, of course, she slept in the crate. Dogs do not like to, and most often will not, go potty in their bed. That's what the crate became, Zoya's bed. So in order to communicate to us, that she had an issue, she would whimper and cry, which would wake us up. I would take her out on a leash, when she did her business, I would praise her, then bring her in, give her a treat, give her a few pets, and put her back to bed (crate). In the morning, first thing out of the crate, it's outside for potty. Praise, treat, allow her to socailize etc. We also used the crate while we ate dinner and for about 15 minutes before we'd take her outside. The real key is getting onto a schedule and sticking with it as best as you can. The rule of thumb I go by, is for every month of a puppy's age, it can hold no longer than 1 hour. Zoya is nearly a year, and she can go almost 12 hours if need be, but that is hardly ever necessary. She was almost 8 months old before I got a full night's sleep. Did not bother the wife at all, she'd sleep right through it. A few little peeps from Zoya, and I'm up and ready to take her out.

Here's a link that may help as well. http://siberianhuskypuppy.net/Puppy_Crate_Training.html

[Ice and Cripton]

Okay, dont worry we had the same prob with Alaska. We got her at 7 weeks and it was a bit of a challenge to keep waking up to let her out, i have to say she was very good on this front and she really didn't want to soil her home area.

- A small puppy needs to be put on his pee pad on the hour! And the ram the point home i did it every half hour.

- You should limit the food and water after 6pm

- No water or food after 7pm

- By 9pm the puppy should be in bed

- Let him go pee just before bed, then again at 12pm, and wake up at about 6am to let him go pee again, Alaska actually woke me up every 2 hours whining to go pee, so you may need to wake up very often indeed lol

- After meal times and drinking the puppy will need to be let out right after, their bladders are very small

- This may sound silly but i had great success with the Victoria Stillwell teaching of giving the urinating a command. I would put Alaska on her pee pad and say "go pee" (in a pleasant tone of voice) and then when she was actually peeing i would say again: "go pee", when she had finished i would give her a little treat and praise and hug her immensely

- If i caught her in the act of peeing out of her pee pad i would 'gasp' and act surprised and say "HEY" (in a firm voice whilst not shouting at her either) and pick her up mid pee (she would stop peeing after this) and pop her on her mat and say "go pee" >>> When she successfully peed on her mat i would praise her.

Now Alaska (who is 1yrs) will still pee when i say "go pee" >>> very handy lol

- Now if you dont catch him in the act but you come in to find a puddle of pee; there are two methods you may wish to use:

* Clean up the mess (without the puppy seeing) and ignore this, mistakes happen right?

* Alert the puppy by pointing to the mess and saying "NO" and then walking them to their mat and say "go pee" >> So they associate they can only pee on the mat, and when they do they get a treat.

I have to say i used both methods to different situations. For example once i left baby Alaska with too much water and came home and there was pee in 3 spots, it didn't smell strong and even looked very watered down >>> I cant correct her when its my fault. However one time i let her go pee in the garden and put her in her crate, in protest (as she didn't think much of the crate) she looked right at me a peed a little, so i pointed to it (and she was in close proximity to it so she could smell it >> so she knew what i was on about) and put he back in the garden and said "go pee" >> cleaned it up in a jiffy and popped her right back in the crate;) You must gage the situations

- If he is being stubborn and he knows he should pee on his mat or the garden but chooses to pee in the house you must watch him like a hawk >> Puppies usually sniff the ground a lot before urinating >> Pick him up and pop him to the area you wish him to do his stuff!

* Whether you use pee pads, or the puppy is old enough to go outside, you can use all of the above to the selected area, the command i had great success with. Puppies love to learn, by making peeing and pooing fun and rewarding, its just another fun trick. You must not make him doing his business a negative experience.

* You can also go to your local pet shop and ask for a drop or spray that encourages pee >> The puppy will smell this and want to go in the area you have sprayed:)

The Biting/Mouthing

Puppies mouth, its normal and a good thing, you must teach your puppy bite inhibition. Bite inhibition is when a dog knows how hard he can bite you, for example you may be all going for a car ride, in he gets and you close the door on his tail, he yelps and maybe bites someone to alert them hes in pain. >>> Hes not trying to hurt you nor is he being aggressive, he is merely using one of his tools to alert you hes in pain, by teaching your puppy bite inhibition he will only nip you lightly instead of sinking his fangs in. Heres how it works:

- Your puppy mouths you softly >> let him!

- When he gets a bit rough; make a high pitched noise or even a yelp that will startle him, when he lets go praise him and say "gentle". And dont be afraid to really be confident and yelp as though you were a puppy in pain;)

- Same goes for when he takes treats, too rough and take it from him. e.g. a small cube of cheese, raise it above his head to get him to sit (so hes calm), and slowly put it to his mouth and say "gent-lee" (in a soft but firm tone) and then give it to him.

- After the age of 5 months he should no way be mouthing >> By then he should know bite inhibition. Alaska didn't do it to me but when she was 3 months she did it to my mum. First off i had to tell my mum to stop being such a weak link:rolleyes: Dogs will often take the piss with the 'softie' of the family, however for him to respect humans and his human pack he must listen to you all. Unfortunately its nothing you can do, your wife must put her foot down otherwise he will just take mickey when your gone and she'll be lost as to what to do. We held Alaska's mouth shut firmly and said "NO". I do want to add; never aggressively or ever to cause pain. I was told by many people this is what they did, we had great success with it and now Alaska really respects my mum which is great >> Its never nice when one person gets the mickey taken out of them , it can cause friction between the family and the bond between them and the doing can be seriously compromised. You must teach her the alpha techniques you clearly possess.

* She must not spoil him, especially now we know he thinks he can have it his way with her

* If she gives a command and he ignores her, you may think by stepping in you are helping but your not, you are contracting her as alpha female. If she says "sit" and he walks off, she must take him by the collar and gently push his bum down and firmly say "sit" >>> You must not get involved or the puppy will never respect a human that always needs you as back-up:eek:

* You must let her bond with him on a productive level, she must walk him and make him heel, train him and make him listen to her.

Alpha Role You All Can Try

* At meal times, get his bowl and make him sit and look at you, put his food down but make him sit and put your hand out and say "wait", then when you are ready to give the release command say: "okay" >> In a 'good boy' kind of tone. << I think your wife should try this

* Heel, the alpha walks ahead

* When leaving or entering places, such as; the front door, your gate, shops, vets, the car >> You must go first and make him sit and wait

I think you have a very confident, cheeky, healthy young puppy, and all the things mentioned is normal. Never be too firm with him, remember a correction should only last a second..then forget and forgive as he probably has. Be firm but fair >> This really works with sibes, they are a proud breed and will respect you if you have rules but not if you are a mini Hitler about them:rolleyes:

P.s its like 4am lol, so soz for any typos or sp's:o:p

Good luck and enjoy him, he sounds lovely:cool:

[BingBlaze n Skyla]

excellent advice Tanika i wud add 2 rep but i cnt - i wish i cud add more to this but i dont think anything else can b sed not after all these great replies good luck with him and let us no how u get on

[Sibe77]

Tanika super advice add to rep...

[siberian_wolf]

that is excellant advice!!!!!!!! (will add to rep when I can)

the only point which did nock a red flag up was this:

- No water or food after 7pm

no food after 7 not a problem but like humans, dogs need to keep fluids in the body. Dogs need to have constant access to water, especially in the hotter months.

What I would suggest is for her to have to have a moist evening/night meal at least 2-3 hours before you go to bed and leave her for an hour and then take her for a quick walk around the block or go and play in the garden so she has chance to empty her system and let her out for toilets again before you go to bed.

[mbb23]

OH WOW!! Great advice guys you all gave top tips!! added to all your Reps

[Ice and Cripton]

Amy... good point, i have resolved this (lol) >>?> Instead of giving him water; give him a couple of ice cubes in his bowl, it will take him longer and he wont gain as much fluids, but it will cool him down and he will get hydraytion!

Soz got there in the end, puppies dont get as hot as older dogs, Balto we leave with no water at night 'cos even now at 1 years he will pee and poo if hes had too much water and we'll come down to a mess. He sleeps in a plastic dog bed, in the downstairs hallway near the front door, the flooring is stone and all heating is off >>> hes nice and cool but weve only just started leaving him ice cubes as before he would drink it all (even if it was a tiny bit) and pee everywhere.

[Ice and Cripton]

oooh thanks guys for the rep add >>> i do tend to babble and 40% of the time it makes sense:O

[Wolfie]

Just reading through this thinking this is exactly the problems we have with wolfie its soooo annoying. we were reading through this wofie pee d on the floor in the sitting room.

We have got puppy mats down for him to pee on inside he doesnt go outside as he hasnt had his second jab yet.

He uses the mats because he knows he gets a treat for it but sometimes he just forgets and does it on the carpets

[siberian_wolf]

Amy... good point, i have resolved this (lol) >>?> Instead of giving him water; give him a couple of ice cubes in his bowl, it will take him longer and he wont gain as much fluids, but it will cool him down and he will get hydraytion!

Soz got there in the end, puppies dont get as hot as older dogs, Balto we leave with no water at night 'cos even now at 1 years he will pee and poo if hes had too much water and we'll come down to a mess. He sleeps in a plastic dog bed, in the downstairs hallway near the front door, the flooring is stone and all heating is off >>> hes nice and cool but weve only just started leaving him ice cubes as before he would drink it all (even if it was a tiny bit) and pee everywhere.

no worries Tanika (managed to add to rep now, lol) just popped a red flag up then that all Like the idea of the ice cubes though as that way they still have water but hopefully will regulate the amount of water he drinks at one time Mind you if he is like my 3 then he will eat the ice cubes

[Sarah]

wow fantastic reply Tanika - added to rep

[Ice and Cripton]

Just reading through this thinking this is exactly the problems we have with wolfie its soooo annoying. we were reading through this wofie pee d on the floor in the sitting room.

We have got puppy mats down for him to pee on inside he doesnt go outside as he hasnt had his second jab yet.

He uses the mats because he knows he gets a treat for it but sometimes he just forgets and does it on the carpets

Well what i said before will deff work with you, If you see him peeing and its not on his mat clap your hands loudly and say "HEY" >>> pick him up mid pee, and take him to his mat.

He'll get there in the end..no worries

[Bec]

Just reading through this thinking this is exactly the problems we have with wolfie its soooo annoying. we were reading through this wofie pee d on the floor in the sitting room.

We have got puppy mats down for him to pee on inside he doesnt go outside as he hasnt had his second jab yet.

He uses the mats because he knows he gets a treat for it but sometimes he just forgets and does it on the carpets

He isn't forgetting, he's only a tiny baby puppy and just hasn't learnt yet. Puppies don't have much control at all over their bladder, when they want to go they just go.

Personally I would be hesitant to teach a pup at any age to toilet inside, it adds a stage to toilet training that you don't need - because once you teach him to go on the puppy pads you will then need to teach him not to toilet inside but outside instead. It's easier for the pup if you teach him to toilet outside from day one so they never develop the habit of toileting inside.

There should be no reason why he can't toilet outside in his own yard, before having all his shots. It's only taking him places where other dogs frequent that you need to be cautious about.

[Wolfie]

Wolfie has a habbit of hitting his water in his water bowl everwhere while hes drinking it makes the kitchen floor drenched does anyone else have this problem?

[Ice and Cripton]

He isn't forgetting, he's only a tiny baby puppy and just hasn't learnt yet. Puppies don't have much control at all over their bladder, when they want to go they just go.

Personally I would be hesitant to teach a pup at any age to toilet inside, it adds a stage to toilet training that you don't need - because once you teach him to go on the puppy pads you will then need to teach him not to toilet inside but outside instead. It's easier for the pup if you teach him to toilet outside from day one so they never develop the habit of toileting inside.

There should be no reason why he can't toilet outside in his own yard, before having all his shots. It's only taking him places where other dogs frequent that you need to be cautious about.

I would'nt suggest this, what about rats, foxes who have rabies, cats, strays >> they may leave their poo in your garden and pee and you may not see it but the puppy might. I did this with Alaska once as i had the same thought proccess as you, but she had the terrible runs for 3 days and had to go to the vets and have a drip,cost lot of money and it could have been avoided if i had just waited. Teach the puppy to only go on the pee pad and then when hes had his jabs put the pee pad outside, i did fine on it and my two are house-trained:)

Wolfie has a habbit of hitting his water in his water bowl everwhere while hes drinking it makes the kitchen floor drenched does anyone else have this problem?

Wolfie - another thing is i think you need to be more diligent, Alaska rarely had any accidents as i was always popping her on her mat. You must do so:

- Right after naps

- Right after play time

- First thing in the morning

- Last thing he does before bed

- Right after he takes a drink

- Right after he has had a meal or a large treat

- When he starts sniffing the ground a lot

- When you have the sneeky suspicious he may need to go

- Every half hour

- Every 2 hours in the night

By the time Alaska was house-trained i looked like hell lol >>>> I got such little sleep, she was house-trained by 3 months, and had no accidents to date since she was 4 1/2 months.

You must be putting him on his mat not waiting for him to go on it.

No, i haven't had this problem, he may just be a little clumsy, try buying a weighted bowl, like a big heavy stone/clay bowl >>> We have one and its really good. And we have a stand for food and water, when the puppy gets a little older its best he eats at face level so he doesn't get integestion.

Heres a link for the heavy bowl:

http://www.elitepet.com.au/store/images/Stone%20Ware%20Bowl%20Lge.jpg

An adjustable dog stand:

http://img.alibaba.com/photo/11719851/Adjustable_Dog_Feeding_Water_Bowls.jpg

Tyr buying a heavy stone dog bowl and just putting a dog towl under it >> just incase;)

[Bec]

I would'nt suggest this, what about rats, foxes who have rabies, cats, strays >> they may leave their poo in your garden and pee and you may not see it but the puppy might. I did this with Alaska once as i had the same thought proccess as you, but she had the terrible runs for 3 days and had to go to the vets and have a drip,cost lot of money and it could have been avoided if i had just waited. Teach the puppy to only go on the pee pad and then when hes had his jabs put the pee pad outside, i did fine on it and my two are house-trained:)

Maybe it's different in the UK but that sounds a bit insane to me, if the level of risk is that serious in your own backyard you can walk that disease into the house on the bottom of your feet or shoes. To 'quarantine' a pup in such a pedantic manner properly would mean you would have to quarantine yourself too - no leaving the house, not even to go into the backyard! What exactly was it that Alaska got sick from? What disease was it that we vaccinate against - parvo, distemper...?

And it's not just about toilet training - more dogs are PTS due to behaviourial issues that stem from incorrect socialisation than they do diseases like parvo. I will never coup a pup up in the house until it's had all it's shots, you miss the critical period for socialisation which is between 8-12 weeks. By the time the pup actually leaves the house it will be in it's first fear period. Some people may feel comfortable with that risk but it's not one I will take, ever.

I'm sure some people have no problem teaching their pup to toilet outside after it's been taught to toilet inside, but I know quite a few dogs that struggle with the transition compared to those who have been taught to toilet outside from the word go. You start as you mean to go on, at least that's how I approach it

[Ice and Cripton]

Maybe it's different in the UK but that sounds a bit insane to me, if the level of risk is that serious in your own backyard you can walk that disease into the house on the bottom of your feet or shoes. To 'quarantine' a pup in such a pedantic manner properly would mean you would have to quarantine yourself too - no leaving the house, not even to go into the backyard! What exactly was it that Alaska got sick from? What disease was it that we vaccinate against - parvo, distemper...?

And it's not just about toilet training - more dogs are PTS due to behaviourial issues that stem from incorrect socialisation than they do diseases like parvo. I will never coup a pup up in the house until it's had all it's shots, you miss the critical period for socialisation which is between 8-12 weeks. By the time the pup actually leaves the house it will be in it's first fear period. Some people may feel comfortable with that risk but it's not one I will take, ever.

I'm sure some people have no problem teaching their pup to toilet outside after it's been taught to toilet inside, but I know quite a few dogs that struggle with the transition compared to those who have been taught to toilet outside from the word go. You start as you mean to go on, at least that's how I approach it

Sure, i never said not to take the puppy out! Alaska went out everyday...in my arms;) We took her to friends houses (who didn't have pets), she played with children, adults >>> She had so much fun as everyone loved her. Here in the UK they strongly advise not to let them out until after their jabs. Alaska had a certain bacteria found in the feces of a fox in her poo when they took a sample, she was given the okay but her body was reacting agaisnt it and trying to flush it out. Well we dont have shoes anywhere bar the hallway has its not hygenic for human or dogs alike. Socialisation is important but taking a puppy in the garden for a couple of secs does not equal socilaisation >>> However what we did with Alasa did:)

Anyway just giving you all a word of cuation that they can get sick, so best to wait the 2 weeks until their jabs until they get to sniff the outside floor but do take them everywhere with you in your arms:)

[Bec]

Sure, i never said not to take the puppy out! Alaska went out everyday...in my arms;) We took her to friends houses (who didn't have pets), she played with children, adults >>> She had so much fun as everyone loved her. Here in the UK they strongly advise not to let them out until after their jabs. Alaska had a certain bacteria found in the feces of a fox in her poo when they took a sample, she was given the okay but her body was reacting agaisnt it and trying to flush it out. Well we dont have shoes anywhere bar the hallway has its not hygenic for human or dogs alike. Socialisation is important but taking a puppy in the garden for a couple of secs does not equal socilaisation >>> However what we did with Alasa did:)

Anyway just giving you all a word of cuation that they can get sick, so best to wait the 2 weeks until their jabs until they get to sniff the outside floor but do take them everywhere with you in your arms:)

But unless they get sick from a disease that we vaccinate against like parvo, the danger is still there regardless if you have waited during the two week period. She could have been 'fully vaccinated' and still reacted to the bacteria, adult dogs react to and get sick from bacteria. I don't see how having her vaccinated would have made a difference unless she'd contracted parvo, distemper or canine infectious hepatitis which are what we vaccinate puppies for - unless I'm being a bit slow and I'm missing something? LOL I'm not quite sure how having her vaccs would have made a difference if it was a bacterial infection that made her sick?

Also, are you saying that you didn't go into your own backyard the entire time that Alaska was waiting for her last vacc? Because, again, diseases like parvo can transfer on our hands and feet as well as our clothes, although you'd have to be very unlucky to have parvo in your backyard (vaccinated adult dogs can contract the virus too ). Besides - a pup isn't consider "fully vaccinated" until a week or two after their final vacc (the age of the pup will depend on which course of vaccs you chose to take).

Naturally most people are familiar with the socialisation vs vaccination argument where you hear people advise not to take puppies out and about before their vaccinations are complete but I've never heard of keeping them out of their own backyards :eek:

BTW - I didn't mean that taking the pup out into the backyard was socialisation, lol I was referring to people who keep their dogs couped up in the house and don't take them out and socialise them until they have had all their vaccs. I would never take a pup anywhere large numbers of dogs frequented, but like you, I carry my pups around and expose them to as many different experiences as possible when in that critical period

[Sqwidge]

Eika went in the garden from day one and we live in the middle of nowhere, where there are all sorts of wildlife, granted none can get in as we have a full fence all the way round, no gaps etc......she wouldn't/doesn't use pee pads anyway...she was 'running with the pack' at the breeders.

I don't understand teaching them pee pad first, then outside...doesn't make sense in my head.