Why does my dog pull on the leash??

[Bec]

Hi guys

Every time I log on to the forum there seems to be a new thread created by someone who is at the end of their tether because their dog pulls their arm out of its socket each time they take them for a walk. I am only a training novice myself, but I thought it would be handy to put all the tips we have to train our dogs to walk on a loose leash in one thread.

Why Do Dogs Pull on The Leash?

Dogs pull on the leash because we inadvertently teach them that's how to get where they want to go. Imagine for a second that you're a dog and your owner is taking you for a walk; there are all sorts of rewarding things for you to pull towards - other dogs, other people, other animals, loads of different smells and things to see and do. Every time we let our dog pull on the leash they are learning that pulling is what gets them closer to the things they find exciting and rewarding. Think about when you take your dog to the dog park, does he pull all the way there? Does he pull towards other dogs as you walk him over to greet them? Allowing your dog to pull in these situations is teaching your dog that pulling on the leash is the fastest way to the reward (i.e. the other dog). The more we let our dogs pull, the more the habit of pulling becomes ingrained and the harder it is to stop the behaviour.

I hear a lot of people say that our dogs are "bred to pull" so that training a Siberian to walk on a loose leash is therefore impossible. This is completely untrue - Siberians can be taught to walk on a loose leash, and many people successfully train their dogs to know the difference between a collar going on and walking nicely on the leash and the harness going on meaning it's time to work (pull). There is NO reason your Siberian can't be taught to walk on a loose leash!

So How Do I Teach My Dog to Walk on a Loose Leash?

There is no simple answer to this question. There are many ways to train loose leash walking, and what works best for you and your dog depends largely on your capability as a handler. Some people have better timing than others and some people will require the assistance of a reputable trainer to show them how best to teach their dog. As I mentioned above, dogs pull on the leash because it gets them where they want to go so it stands to reason that to get them to walk on a loose leash you need to teach them pulling gets them no where.

The method I use is called the change of direction. This involves simply walking with your dog and turning sharply and quickly on your heel in a 180 degree turn the moment the dog pulls on the leash and the leash goes tight. This will force the dog to turn around to catch up to you, when it does, give it loads of praise and rewards for doing the right thing. Your timing needs to be instant and you need to do it EVERY time for the dog to learn that pulling gets them no where.

Some people use the be a tree method which involves stopping every time the dog pulls in order to teach it that pulling on the leash will force it to stop. Some people use a clicker, which involves clicking and treating the dog when it is walking on a loose leash. You can combine clicker training with either method. The benefit of using food rewards to train LLW is that the dog learns that you are very rewarding, and if you are rewarding enough, more rewarding than the distractions it is pulling towards.

I see a lot of owners who walk their dog yelling or commanding it to 'HEEL' or 'STOP' etc. There is no point giving your dog a command unless your dog understands what it means. When I tell my dogs to heel, they snap into formal heel position with 100% focus on me. When I tell them to look, they whip their heads up giving me great eye contact. These were both commands I trained separately at home, before even thinking of using them on a walk. Giving your dog a command when they don't understand it will only teach your dog to tune out to your voice. I like to have a command like heel or look that I use sparingly on a walk but reward heavily each time the dog does it so I know I have a very reliable command I can use to instantly get my dog's attention when I need it.

When training loose leash walking the goal should be for the leash to always have slack in it. I cringe every time I see an owner walking their dog on a tight leash as it's transferring the tension to the dog and encouraging them to pull. A tight leash creates resistance - think of when you see working police dogs, when the handler wants to rev the dog up they pull back on the leash so it's tight. So - you always want to aim for slack in the leash. My dogs learn that a tight leash = getting no where so now when I pull on the leash and it tightens, they automatically stop. I am not a Nazi though - my dogs can walk a bit in front, they can sniff and look around etc as long as they are not pulling on the leash and obey my commands when I give them.

Training Tools - head collars; harnesses; prongs; check chains etc

Many people will automatically recommend you use a training tool to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. There is nothing wrong with training tools but it is vital to remember that's all they are - a TOOL - and they are NO substitute for training. A training tool should always be used in conjunction with a training program. For two main reasons: one, you need to learn how to properly fit and use a tool or you could potentially injure your dog and two; dogs can learn to pull on ANY tool and the more tools your dog learns to pull on the harder he will be to train, because each time a tool or methods fails the dog learns he can win and will become more and more resistant to training.

There is no point chucking a training tool on your dog and hoping for the best. You need to know what you are going to do with the tool, what training method you will use it with, in order for it to be most effective.

Many people recommend head collars and I am personally not a fan for many reasons - if used correctly they involve a lengthy desensitization process to get the dog used to wearing it before you can even use it on a walk, although some dogs will find wearing them highly aversive no matter what you do. You often see dogs wearing head collars refuse to put them on; try desperately to get it off when it is on or shut down when wearing it. The problem with head collars is that dogs can find them aversive just from wearing them, which means they are being corrected the entire time they are wearing it not just when they are pulling. Often you find they will walk ok with the head collar on but will revert back to pulling once it's off - another example that the tool is acting as a bandaid and is just managing the problem, not fixing it.

That's not to say they are the wrong tool for all dogs, but that there are lots of things you need to be aware of before using one and you need to make sure it is the right tool for your dog.

There is no one tool that will work for all dogs. What tool works best will depend on the dog and the owner. I personally use martingales (limited slip) collars, which allow you to adjust them to fit them snug and high up on the dog's neck behind their ears. I prefer them to check chains because they are adjustable and therefore allow you to fit them better. I know of some trainers who have luck with modern no pull harnesses (i.e. the ones that attach from the front) but again what will work well will depend on your dog.

For a strong dog with an ingrained pulling habit I would look at a prong collar which looks like a medieval torture device but is actually a tool that communicates really clearly to the dog with very very minimal corrections from you. As with most tools though, the best bet is consulting a reputable trainer so they can assess your dog, make a recommendation and if a tool is needed help you fit the appropriate one and learn how to use it.

Don't be afraid to seek the help of a reputable trainer or behaviourist to help you teach your dog to walk on a loose leash - for a good experienced trainer that should be easy, and they should be able to show YOU how to get your dog walking on a loose leash in no time.

Training a Puppy

If you have a puppy one of the best things you can train it early on is to walk on a loose leash. Never start walking your puppy and let it pull thinking you will train it to walk on a loose leash later, because you are allowing the behaviour to become a habit and your puppy is only going to get bigger and stronger and pull harder and harder. So don't put it off - teach your puppy from the word go that walking next to you is the best and quickest way to get where you are going and that obeying your commands is super fun and very rewarding.

Training Treats

If your dog is food motivated and you want to take some food rewards with you on your walk to reward good behaviour, make sure you are using soft smelly treats that are high value to the dog; tiny pieces (I never use anything bigger than the nail on my pinky finger) so they can swallow them easily and quickly.

Don't forget that walking your dog is a GREAT opportunity to train and bond with him. Training should be fun not frustrating for you and a way for you to teach your dog that obeying you is fun and rewarding.

Now I've waffled on for long enough, please feel free to share any tips you have for loose leash walking

[davidjk]

good post, i make them sit and wait when they pull, and treats as well.

[Sarah]

added to rep

[valkyries]

rep added

[Tikaani&Aiyana]

Great post, rep added

[Rosemary]

Thanks Bec - loose leash walking and Ozzy do not go in the same sentence. Believe me, I have tried, and have spent hours with him but nothing I do works. I have not tried the different collars, prong etc, as I am very nervous of them, but I got the name of a trainer/behaviorist this weekend who may be able to help. My husband walks Ozzy and he never corrects him when he pulls, and all the work I put in during the day at home, goes out the window When Ozzy leaps ahead, Micah wants to follow and then all h$ll breaks loose. Hopefully we will get this sorted soon.

[SarahNukka&Shadow]

Thanks Bec - loose leash walking and Ozzy do not go in the same sentence. Believe me, I have tried, and have spent hours with him but nothing I do works. I have not tried the different collars, prong etc, as I am very nervous of them, but I got the name of a trainer/behaviorist this weekend who may be able to help. My husband walks Ozzy and he never corrects him when he pulls, and all the work I put in during the day at home, goes out the window When Ozzy leaps ahead, Micah wants to follow and then all h$ll breaks loose. Hopefully we will get this sorted soon.

Rosemary, sounds like you need to train your hubby first then work on the dogs! LOL

Plus 1 added Bec very good advise.

[Rosemary]

Rosemary, sounds like you need to train your hubby first then work on the dogs! LOL

Sarah I agree 100%, he drives me insane. That is why I am getting the trainer in - its not just for the huskies, I am hoping to getting the hubby trained as well

[Bec]

Rosemary let us know how you go with the trainer!

For anyone whose interested, this video demonstrates how to use a check chain (IF you choose to use one and if it is the right tool for your dog) but more importantly, demonstrates the change of direction technique,

[Rosemary]

I will Bec - I am going to ask her to bring some chains and collars with in case they need it to start off with......

[lauraxxx29]

Brillant tread. just what i needed to hear right now. I have been using a gentle leader on Akia so she knows the differnce from the harness. Dont have probs walking to the school ect just in new places as there so much more to smell. Willow is so good on the lead but akia needs more work but I will succeed.