Grooming your dog/s

[siberian_wolf]

Regular grooming helps keep your dog/s coat clean, healthy and managable and also prevent matts (which can cause yeast infections) from occuring.

Also grooming can help prevent:

1) Periodontal disease (http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2089&aid=379) which is caused by un-cared teeth

2) Ear infections caused by an excessive build up of ear wax / dirt and bacteria.

Step by step to grooming

Step 1.

Before you start it can help relax your dog by taking them on a walk so they are tiered.

Gather all the necessary equipment needed, which is (for a general groom):

1) Dog/Baby shampoo (don't use the same shampoo as you do as this can cause skin irritation)

2) Towels

3) Brushes / Combs / Rakes which are suited to your dogs coat type (Huskies have a double coat)

4) Bath / Shower with a non-slip mat to prevent your dog from slipping over)

Step 2.

Start grooming your dog by brushing first as any mats can become unmanageable and can enlarge when wet. With a double coat it is best to start using a rake (e.g. http://pets1st.ca/pets1st.asp?ProdID=718) or a similar item (i.e. Slicker or pin brush or a rubber comb) to brush out the undercoat first and most rakes will also brush the over coat aswell. Always start from the back of your dog and work to the front, also let your dog know where you are at all times. With nervous dogs, it can help by talking to them to reassure them.

This is also the time to do any necessary clipping or other grooming (i.e. ear cleaning, teeth cleaning, etc).

areas which may be needing treatment before bathing

a) Eyes - Some breeds require more maintenance in this area than others. While it may be a simple matter of pulling eye boogers away from a potentially irritating spot in the corner of the eye, long-haired or white-haired dogs may require special attention to make sure that all gunk is truly out of the coat. There are products made specially for removing "tear stains" from a white coat available from many pet supply stores or catalogs. A healthy eye should be clear and should not show any sign of irritation or unusual discharge. Your Vet can cut hair around the eyes for you, which can cause tear stains (Do not try this yourself)

Ears - A clean ear may contain some wax and shouldn't have any particular smell to it. Warm any cleaner or medication in a container of body temperature water (as you would a baby bottle) before you put it in the ear. Cold is painful in the ear canal. A few drops of warmed rubbing alchohol will dry water from the ear canal and kill bacteria, yeast and mites. To clean your dog's ears, apply some ear cleaning solution to a cotton ball and simply wipe dirt and wax away from the inner ear. Don't rub so vigorously as to cause sores, and don't travel too far into the ear; both could cause damage. And don't expect your dog to like the process; you may be met with some resistance. When you're done wiping out the ear with a damp cotton ball or cloth, gently dry it out with a dry one. If your dog's ear looks swollen, red, irritated, dark or blackened, shows signs of discharge or sores, or smells really bad, call your veterinarian. This is not normal and could be signaling an infection or disease.

c) Teeth - If plaque is continually digested on a larger than normal scale, it can cause kidney or liver troubles. Try to brush your dog's teeth at least 2-3 times a week. Use only those products made specifically for dogs so that you don't unintentionally poison your dog. You can use gauze over your finger or a toothbrush, or there are more advanced and effective products available. For example, PetsToothBrush is a surgical glove with bristles attached to the thumb and forefinger. But, either way, ease your dog into the process so that it can be a pleasant experience rather than a stressful one and you don't get yourself bitten. Pets will usually prefer human touch rather than a hard plastic brush. If your dog already has a considerable build up of tartar and plaque, veterinary cleaning may be needed. Some dogs will let you scrape the tartare if you are brave enough to try it. Just purchase a dental scraper and be gentle. Otherwise, brushing or spraying about 3 times weekly supplemented with the occasional frozen raw bone (acquired at any butcher or deli) should be enough for maintenance. Remember that you should not use human toothpaste on your pets. Pets will swallow the toothpaste and may get sick. There are several pet toothpaste products available, just be sure that whatever you use is specifically approved for pets.

d) Nails - If left uncared for, nails can grow to enormous lengths, twisting the toe and causing a pained, irregular gait that can lead to skeletal damage, sometimes even curling into the pads of the foot. To keep your dog's nails short, clip them regularly. Depending on the dog, you may need to do it as often as once a week or as infrequently as once a month. To clip the nails, trim a very small amount of nail (like 1/16 of an inch) away with a pair of dog nail clippers (unless it is a very young puppy or very small dog, in which case human clippers may suffice). Should you accidentally clip too much nail away and hit a blood vessel, styptic powder or corn starch applied with a bit of pressure should stop any bleeding. The Majority of people prefer to take their dogs to the vet / proffessional groomer for this.

Step 3.

Place your dog into the bath or shower. If your dog is nervous or become aggressive you can secure your dog by tying him/her to something such as a tap or muzzle him/her to prevent yourself any injury. Again, most people who have an aggressive dog, when being groomed, they will take their dog to a proffessional dog groomer. If your dog does have to be retrained in the bath /shower then ensure the collar used will not stain the coat (Change the collar to one which will not stain the coat is necessary). It is best to have no collar on at all as if the collar rubs the coat it can cause sores around the dogs neck.

Step 4.

Either using the shower or by gently puring jugs of water over the dog, ensure that the dog is thouroughly wet. For a Husky (Double coat) is can be advised to use a harder pressure to ensure the entire undercoat gets washed as well. Where the coat is thinner (i.e. around the face and ears) ensure the water is gently soaking through the coat and is not hitting hard on the coat.

Step 5.

Start shampooing your dog (Back to front). Dilute the shampoo slightly with water can make it easier to spread evenly around the coat and can make it easier to rinse off. With double coats (and long coats) it can be advised to shampoo twice.

It can also help by using a rubber comb/brush on double coats when shampooing as by using it as a massager can help work the shampoo throughout the undercoat. Always wash the face area last and dont used soap/shampoo around the eyes and ears and also be careful around the nose and mouth too.

Step 6.

Throughly rinse your dog of the shampoo. Keep rinsing your dog until you can no longer see and dirt or shampoo bubbles coming off your dog. If any shampoo is left on the dogs coats can cause hot spots, irritated area which can result in a bald, itchy area of red skin.

Step 7.

To dry your dog, use towels first. It is best if you can towel dry your dog as best as you can (especially if your dog does not get along with a hair dryer). You don't want to dry your dog completely but leave them slightly damp as you don't want to dry the skin too much. With a long coat you may need to brush your dog whilst blow drying him/her.

Don't bath your dog too often as you can remove natural oils in the coat which can also cuase skin problems.

[sakora]

This post is great I added to your rep thanks so much for the information

[Sarah]

agree, added to rep

[Dunc]

Great info rep added