Introducing a new husky to your pack

[Val (Zebedee)]

as you may have read, we are setting out on the road of adopting a husky. We are waiting on a home visit from RSPCA & am waiting for SHWA to get in touch with the same.

In the meantime, I am thinking ahead about when our new pack member joins us. We have had Myshka since she was 10 weeks, she is now nearly 4yrs. What would be the best way to behave / treat both dogs when the newbie arrives?

Obviously they will have met often before hand & been introduced that way but I suppose it's a different ball game when he is here for good. I don't want Myshka to feel pushed out but I would want the newbie to feel safe & settle quickly.

Or is this me thinking too deeply & let things happen at it's own pace??

Also, is it wise to change a husky's name when adopting? Does it depend on his age? Or just leave the name he came with?

Oh, so many questions! Please post your advice or tell me I'm worrying over nothing!! :byebye:

[raindog]

Bringing a Rescued dog into an existing pack is always an area of concern. This Article was published in the first edition of our SHWA(UK) magazine Siberian Eye and is by Rachel Bateman, one of SHWA(UK)s most experienced Welfare Workers .

Avoiding confrontation with new dogs

OKYou have picked up your new welfare doghow do you integrate it into your home and your existing pack?

Try and keep the first 2 3 weeks as calm as possible. Once at home, give the dog somewhere that is its own space where it will feel safe and secure. Try not to get the dog overexcited when playing and make sure that YOU (the family) start and finish the games it plays, taking any toys involved away from it when you have finished.

Give it a few toys and big chews that it can chew on without getting into trouble. Try to keep things you dont want it to get at tidied away, shoes, clothing etc. If the dog does get hold of something it shouldnt, then distract it with one of its own toys or a food treat.

Always encourage and praise the dog for doing the things you want it to do, no matter how small.

Use treats to get the results you want. Try not to chastise it unless you actually catch it in the act, and then a firm, quiet NO should be enough. Avoid manhandling the dog to get it to do things you want, huskies as a breed generally do not like this and will often nip back at whoever is holding it. Far better use a treat to achieve what you want the dog to do, that way you both get something out of the situation without either of you losing face!

Every member of the family and visitors should ignore the dog for approx. 5 mins whenever they have been separated from it e.g. when the family come downstairs in the morning , shopping trips etc., no matter how much it might jump around and make a fuss. When the 5 minutes is over call the dog to you, make a big fuss and reassure it. Of course this will take time, as huskies by nature are proud dogs and dont appreciate being ignored and the family are learning new techniques. Make sure you are always the ones to initiate any contact. If the dog comes to you, ignore it until it turns away then call it and fuss it. This might seem a bit cruel but really it isnt, the dogs still getting love and affection but its when you say so, not the dog. If you let it initiate the contact then in a very short time it has become the leader of your family and that is a recipe for disaster.

When preparing the dogs food, a little biscuit hidden behind its bowl, which you must let it see you eat before it gets its meal, is a small way of reinforcing its position within your family.

Always try to feed the dog after the rest of the family including any other pet dogs. When the dog is well settled in it might be an idea to give it a large, RAW knucklebone from your local butcher about every 4 6 weeks. This will keep it amused for at least 1 2 hours, will keep its teeth in excellent condition and may firm up its stools. However if it has the opposite effect and brings on diarrhoea dont give it one again! Of course it goes without saying NO COOKED BONES! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TAKE THE BONE AWAY FROM THE DOG ! Wait until it has had enough and walked away, then remove the bone and put it in an outside bin.

Whenever setting off for a walk (or even when going from room to room) this

signals going on a hunt to a dog. As the leader of the pack is always in control of

the hunt make sure you go ahead first e.g. always go through doors, gates etc., in

front of the dog. If you see a dog in the distance and you are worried about

confrontation, quietly and calmly walk in a different direction. To distract your

dogs attention from another dog use a treat. Let it nibble at the treat until the

other dog has gone, then let it have it and praise the dog. When you meet other

people in the street and want to stop for a chat, tell the dog to sit and let the lead

hang loose. Every few seconds tell it quietly and calmly how good it is until you

are ready to move off. If you keep it on a tight lead then it will become tense and

anxious and more likely to jump around. If when generally walking it pulls too

much on the lead, walk backward for four paces bringing the dog back to heel

then set off again. This may seem a bit bizarre to anyone watching you but the

results are well worth it.

Please try and stick with the tips I have given you, though it may seem like hard

work a lot of the time, the effects can be astounding when they work and it makes

for a lovely, pleasant life with your new pet.

As additional reading material I recommend The Dog Listener by Jan Fennell

(Harper Collins books). This is my bible and it has radically changed my view on

how to live with dogs. I know it works because Ive seen the results for myself,

but only if everyone sticks to the routines to the best of their ability.

I have to say that we don't always do all these things, but that is because we are very lucky that our pack is so used to new dogs coming in and out, that they rarely turn a hair any more and we are a bit spoiled. We usually have one or two welfare fosters in at any one time and our dogs just seem to accept them.

Mick

[Sarah]

that's great advice mick, added to rep

[Val (Zebedee)]

Thanks, Mick, that helps a lot, rep added

on the other side of the coin, how would I treat Myshka? As I say, I don't want her to feel pushed out, the new dog appearing to get all the attention.... is that just play it by ear? She is quite a chilled out dog, likes a wrestle with the best of them, then walks off after 5 mins. When loose with other huskies, she seems to spend most of her time running by their side following them, and although we've never witnessed any aggression, she can be dominant. It's just I am aware we are bringing a new dog into "her territory".

[valkyries]

great advice mick rep added also good luck val hope all goes well i was lucky Odin is so placid he let Topaz walk straight in and they have their monents but get along great xx