Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Gina

Added a new husky to pack, need advice! (2 females)

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I wanted to get on here and ask advice from everyone. I have a two year old female husky, Nova. She is fixed and 45 lbs. I just rescued a one year old female husky a couple days ago, Sky. She is fixed and 35 lbs.

My current husky is so high energy. The listing for Sky said she was high energy. I thought, perfect match! Well, Nova is just so, so excited and going crazy. The new husky is so shy and timid, she does not want to play and only wants to sleep and cuddle with me and my boyfriend. I know some of her stress is from the transition of going from her foster home, to spending a couple days in the kennel (foster family went away for weekend and we could not coordinate a meet and greet with volunteer), then arriving here to a very excited sister. Every day has gotten better and better, but there is still the thought in the back of my mind about two females possibly never getting along.

So, onto the behavior of the two. My current husky sees any movement of new husky as a "sign" to play and immediately runs to her and starts to wrestle. The new husky is not into playing. Sky snarls. Then Nova gives her bumps, and it ends up into a little fight. There has not been too many yelps but they are vocal. There has not been any injuries or blood. It has just been on repeat Nova trying to play, and Sky saying no. Sky will be sleeping and if we hold Nova, they will sleep next to each other. But it has been a very tiring few days of constant scraps and telling Nova "no" because she doesn't want to play. Once they are tired, they can sleep a few feet from each other and the house goes quiet.

They have no issues on walks, they do very very well with that.

I am starting to get worried about if they are both too dominant and it will never end. I've seen Nova hovering and leaning on Sky. Today, to my surprise, Sky tried to hump Nova. My stomach is sick because this is what I read about.

Please let me know your honest advice, I want what is best for the dogs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plus..

They both need time with safety.. to acclimatise..so,  

New or same dog/s - but changes in behaviour - in your home: This worked for me when my Blu came.. @ 16/¹² : yes, neutral ground first x 2 or three, + baskerville muzzles to prevent injuries. Keep leads on to start, then decide who runs off lead, who stays on.. Then at home... [training starts from day one in sit, down, bed, wait, etc incl leave!' repeating instructions over & over until they are learned - & remember to ignore the wrong but immediately reward the good! It took over a week for Blu & Chester to 'start' to play- but usually muzzled. Blu was very pushy and jumping on Chester a lot. It took 11 (ELEVEN) weeks before my Eski made the 'Let's play' move, and, muzzles only went back on (usually on Blu) when play became far too aggressive, and fights started - again, Blu; he had much to learn in manners, and, behaving acceptably within the pack, and in the home. He lacked much confidence and a huge lack (none) of experience around other dogs... so was aggressive rather than 'wait his turn'. Training went on daily and today he's 95% better - but his immaturity will pass by, I hope by age three. He's now 2½. Being neutered before 6/¹² has NOT helped Blu because he matures more slowly! I am at home all the time.

They always seem better settled when I go out. (Indoor cctv cameras show this : [Clever Dog Camera on Groupon). However  they now also play a lot ! 

Blu's possessiveness/jealousy of me shows more when I'm at home. When he's really 'bad', I put him into 'rejection' & 'timeout' into his crate for 15-30 minutes. Or, muzzle him if he's indicating a potential 'attack' on Chester. (much less now Feb 2020).

It always works - his behaviour improves, & he gets praised when he is asked to 'Be nice!' Over & over repetition in this - but, it gets through!

Never any pushy stuff from him to Eski - she is Alpha bitch - no one fools with her at all! ●

●● SO.. here's my solution:

To my new or wannabe husky owners: "New young or old dog/ - old or young dog, into same house".

Start from scratch. Separate in crates - one in, one out - equal times. They can smell and see but not hurt, each other. Rotate every few hours - It took about a week before I could let (new) Blu & my Chester out together - both males, both neutered, out together, w/o an immediate scrap, but both in Baskerville muzzles which cover the WHOLE mouth.

The only reason fights occurred was because

A) Blu was rude, pushy, didn't know about correct 'pack behaviour, or respect to his elders

B) He'd left his mom too early. So .. no lessons taught off of her (12-14 weeks pups learn so much, incl toilet training.. social & personal manners, all round!) His size didn't help as he was bigger & would bite first due to insecurity & thinking he was missing out.  He also tried to tell Chester 'off' if I asked C to move away, ho out, ho to remove a bowl, or go to give him a treat, plus he'd go for C or E if training/treat box came out (min. daily.  He gets over excited & then jumps on them, causing a fight because he didn't THINK!)  Today he's better - but I'm still working on his over exuberant behaviour & I must say it's MUCH better, but not  right yet! Lol

Now- he 'airsnaps', or curls a lip while staring intently at C if he (C) comes up to me.  If I catch him in time, I say 'Blu!' (he looks at me). I say 'Be nice or Out?!' pointing to the door. His eyes, immediately drop & he looks away...but, I say 'Blu' again..& as he turns to look at me I say ' Yes!  Goiod boy-Watch me!' with fingers up to my eyes.  Getting him to acknowledge that I (ie, ME) AM the one to focus on.  He's just getting the hang of watching ME when bowls are put down, not the bowl - and watch my fingers- 3,2,1 countdown, then WAIT whilst my thumb remains up in the air, (can be two minutes or more, or 30 seconds, or two seconds, but, they must watch.me. (ie, including my hand)!  When my hand goes down THEN then know they can go to their bowls. 

I'm home all day, so can carry out supervision & 'play' /teaching time in the garden / home, respectively.

When one dog actually starts to 'invite' play* after coming out, watch closely because this may then indicate who's going to be boss. * play invite: down on fore paws, rump in air, waggy tale, darting forward, down, darting back.. it looks like 'let's play' / 'let's chase'.

● My girl Eski took 11 (ELEVEN) weeks before SHE made that move; she ignored all 'invites' of play with growls, bites or fights. With no aggression indicated, first in a 'rump up', then head down on elbows 'Let's play'? position. I knew then SHE would rule as she made the first 'nice' move.

And boy, does he know it. He was ignorant, rude, over boisterous, bullying, deaf & disobedient. (Still is, but listening and complying more, now! (Nov 2019 at time of writing, so now a year+ on).  It's flown!

He had no 'pack' knowledge of rules nor manners. This really caused a challenge because although he learned fast, he forgot fast, too being young & very immature. Not his fault, nor his owner's - simply circumstances around a hard & ever increasing work schedule, which brought Blu to be given (his owner begged) if I would take him in, so 'He has the companionship, AND better quality if life, PLUS freedom from a 12' x 6' kennel every work day, and '- just a better life' than I can give him now'.

I agreed only through a foster trial first. Two months in, and my training efforts were beginning to show favourable results, as videos and pictures sent back to Stu also reassured him greatly. And, I started TRAINING the night he came home. I start as I mean to go on with all new diogs & he could see from  the exemplary behaviour of C & E ...(and, good grief, they WERE exemplorarily behaved - rare!!) 🤣) that this was the norm....  two weeks & he was 90% better. 14 times up & taken back to his crate on that first feed prep occasion lol.. my two were sooo patient, & not a peep out of them... 

● I expected a year of trials & challenges. That's just passed (Nov 25, 2019).

I now expect another year.. but a much easier one, before I am happy with Blu, in trust, and good behaviour.  And, before I might get a last & fourth one. He's a real sweetie - with big promise - just a typical teenage boy - & I've had two of the human ones. 🤣

There were still a few scraps - with injuries, but now it is far more noise and absolutely little tolerance at all (from me) or Eski, especially if he takes liberties with HER space, HER body, or HER anything. Blu will not cross her.

With two girls, an Alpha bitch will emerge. If it's the younger one ok*.   If it's the older one, ok, *however, your younger one may one day re-challenge, or, simply step into her shoes when age creeps on. (I foresee this already with my lovely Chester, vs Blu, however I personally will NOT let Blu bully or dominate Chester near me. Blu has not matured (yet!), to take that role on which he shows more around ME or Dave, than when they're at home alone. I have three cameras indoors. Patience, consistency and persistence. You HAVE a say too..  'Be Nice, No Bite!' when letting out. Let them KNOW you are watching....

● (there is another different post..  but similar to above)

Same dog/s - (or with new too) but changes in behaviour - in your home: - Back to Basics with isolation / separation / rejection from the family incl human pack and/or with crate use!  🤗  You are da boss/es if two - so work together to re-establish order, and ground rules. 

Edited by Maz51
Typos

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 New or same dog/s - but changes in behaviour - in your home: This worked for me when my Blu came.. @ 16/¹² : yes, neutral ground first x 2 or three, + baskerville muzzles to prevent injuries. Keep leads on to start, then decide who runs off lead, who stays on.. Then at home... [training starts from day one in sit, down, bed, wait, etc incl leave!' repeating instructions over & over until they are learned - & remember to ignore the wrong but immediately reward the good! It took over a week for Blu & Chester to 'start' to play- but usually muzzled. Blu was very pushy and jumping on Chester a lot. It took 11 (ELEVEN) weeks before my Eski made the 'Let's play' move, and, muzzles only went back on (usually on Blu) when play became far too aggressive, and fights started - again, Blu; he had much to learn in manners, and, behaving acceptably within the pack, and in the home. He lacked much confidence and a huge lack (none) of experience around other dogs... so was aggressive rather than 'wait his turn'. Training went on daily and today he's 95% better - but his immaturity will pass by, I hope by age three. He's now 2½. Being neutered before 6/¹² has NOT helped Blu because he matures more slowly! I am at home all the time. They always seem better settled when I go out. (Indoor cctv cameras show this : [Clever Dog Camera on Groupon). Blu's possessiveness/jealousy of me shows more when I'm at home. When he's really 'bad', I put him into 'rejection' & 'timeout' into his crate 15-30 minutes. Or, muzzle him if he's indicating a potential 'attack' on Chester. It always works - his behaviour improves, & he gets praised when he is asked to 'Be nice!' Over & over repetition in this - but, it gets through! Never any pushy stuff to Eski - she is Alpha bitch - no one fools with her at all! ● SO.. here's my solution: To my new or wannabe husky owners: "New young or old dog/ - old or young dog, into same house". Start from scratch. Separate in crates - one in, one out - equal times. They can smell and see but not hurt, each other. It took about a week before I could let (new) Blu & my Chester out together - both males, both neutered, out together, w/o an immediate scrap, but both in Baskerville muzzles which cover the WHOLE mouth. I'm home all day, so can carry out supervision & 'play' time in the garden. When one dog actually starts to 'invite' play* after coming out, watch closely because this may then indicate who's going to be boss. * play invite: down on fore paws, rump in air, waggy tale, darting forward, down, darting back.. it looks like 'let's play' / 'let's chase'. My girl took 11 (ELEVEN) weeks before SHE made that move; she ignored all 'invites' of play with growls, bites or fights. With no aggression indicated, first in a 'rump up', then head down on elbows 'Let's play'? position. I knew then SHE would rule as she made the first 'nice' move. And boy, does he know it. He was ignorant, rude, over boisterous, bullying, deaf & disobedient. (Still is, but listening and complying more, now! (Nov 2019 at time of writing, so a year on). He had no 'pack' knowledge of rules nor manners. This really caused a challenge because although he learned fast, he forgot fast, too being young & very immature. Not his fault, nor his owner's - simply circumstances around a hard & ever increasing work schedule, which brought Blu to be given (owner begged) if I would take him in, so 'He has the companionship, freedom from a 12' x 6' kennel every work day, and 'a better life' than I can give him now'. I agreed only through a foster trial first. Two months in, and my training efforts were beginning to show favourable results, as videos and pictures sent back to Stu also reassured him greatly. And, I started the night he came home. I expected a year of trials & challenges. That's just passed (Nov 25, 2019). I now expect another year.. but an easier one, before I am happy with Blu, in trust, and good behaviour. And, before I might get a last & fourth one. He's a real sweetie - with big promise - just a typical teenage boy - & I've had two of the human ones. There were still a few scraps - with injuries, but now it is far more noise and absolutely little tolerance at all (from me) or Eski, especially if he takes liberties with HER space, HER body, or HER anything. Blu will not cross her. With two girls, an Alpha bitch will emerge. If it's the younger one ok. If it's the older one, ok, however, your younger one may one day re-challenge, or, simply step into her shoes when age creeps on. (I foresee this already with my lovely Chester, however I personally will NOT let Blu bully or dominate Chester near me. Blu has not matured yet, to take that role on which shows more around ME or Dave, than when they're at home alone. I have three cameras indoors. Patience, consistency and persistence. You have a say too 'Be Nice, No Bite!' when letting out. Let them KNOW you are watching.

...SAFETY FIRST... 

Separating a dog fight.. be safe If they do fight, grab nearest hind legs and retreat as fast as able until the 'red mist' clears. Stay away from those teeth! Better to get the attacker, than the attacked, as the former may continue as you work to separate. A bowl or jug of water works very well too to shock them. Then immediately tell both "Bed! Now!" ie, crates with a throw blocking their view to each other. When they've calmed down take each out, separately, and examine quietly all over including IN ears where a fang may have gone through low down. Warm salty water on a cotton pad to clean all/anything very gently persuading with a treat reward. Coconut oil can help seal off bleeding, & is also antiseptic, antibacterial & antiviral. Check and clean up using Leucillin antiseptic spray. Put back in crate. Repeat on #2 and any others. No cross words, just check them over, with love. #2 back in crate.. et al. Repeat medicinal/injury care once or twice daily. Next time out, BOTH back into muzzles. First sign of trouble, isolate, and remove freedom - IN their crates. Good luck.

Feed back welcomed ..... 🤗 Maz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem when I introduced a new 3.5 year old husky to my own 4 year old husky. (both males)   The new one (Mikey) was very agressive towards him  - trying to dominate him from the start  - it did not help in that he was also much bigger and heavier than Marley, - also whilst Marley is very sociable, he is also very easily bullied    -    unless he is pushed too far   - consequently I was separating them a couple of times a day  (luckily I was never bitten).

I have child and dog gates everywhere  (I dont use crates)  so I separated them that way  -  they could still see/smell/even lie next to each other but Mikey could not bully Marley.   They have never been together overnight unless one of us is sleeping in the lounge   -  usually Marley chooses to sleep by the front door leaving the lounge and kitchen to Mikey.    Marley can be trusted with my cat so he gets the opportunity of coming up to the bedroom if he wants   (though usually he comes up for around 15 mins then goes back by the front door).   Mikey has made it very clear he will kill our cat if ever he gets the opportunity so is never allowed past the hallway dog gate.    It took about three weeks before the fights stopped   -  only had two scraps in the last 3 months  (both times left Marley bleeding but not badly)

Mikey wanted to take over as the head of the pack - but I would not allow it  -  and he has settled into second place  -  no longer trying to get through doors first  even when I am not close.  Mikey wants to play much more than Marley does  -  but Marley has the opportunity of going by the front door when he wants peace and quiet  -  giving a soft bark when he wants to come back   -    because he can get away whenever he wants to - things have settled down.

I still stand inbetween them at meal times   -  but I have been doing that for years with several dogs,      I really do not think there would be a problem as Mikey has not attempted to go to Marley's bowl unless Marley has already walked away from it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Below-  my response  SAFETY FIRST IN Separating a Dog fight.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

You certainly sorted it.. I can now feed them together - on guard - in the kitchen, but in most cases it's convenient to just put him on the other side of a closed door!  He is still guarding the bowl, sometimes, but I simply say - 'Break.. Blu.. Leave it' and he is getting to sit now, before I remove it and then go into Down whilst I take it into the kitchen (having already removed the others' bowls.)  This way, no one's near a bowl Blu might decide to go to or go for them!

Eventually I will have them all in the kitchen  patience & time.

  Eski & Chester now eat out of a twin bowl stand respecting each other's space - something I was truly delighted to accomplish.  If I get a fourth I expect to do this with Blu too.

~~~~~~~~~~

Tips I've  learned re Dog fights!

Separating a dog fight.. be safe If they do fight, grab nearest hind legs and retreat as fast as able until the 'red mist' clears. Stay away from those teeth! Better to get the attacker, than the attacked, as the former may continue as you work to separate. A bowl or jug of water works very well too to shock them. Then immediately tell both "Bed! Now!" ie, crates with a throw blocking their view to each other. When they've calmed down take each out, separately, and examine quietly all over including IN ears where a fang may have gone through low down. Warm salty water on a cotton pad to clean all/anything very gently persuading with a treat reward. Coconut oil can help seal off bleeding, & is also antiseptic, antibacterial & antiviral. Check and clean up using Leucillin antiseptic spray. Put back in crate. Repeat on #2 and any others. No cross words, just check them over, with love. #2 back in crate.. et al. Repeat medicinal/injury care once or twice daily. Next time out, BOTH back into muzzles. First sign of trouble, isolate, and remove freedom - IN their crates. Good luck.

Feed back welcomed ..... 🤗 Maz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s a waiting game regarding the settling in process, it sounds to me as though Nova is happy to have sky join your pack. When sky snarls at Nova it’s her way of saying back off and the fact that they sleep near each other is a good sign and the humping is probably sky trying to assert dominance. They are both still young and I would monitor the play until you feel confident they will play nicely together. They will find their position in the pack eventually and unless they become aggressive with each other I’d let them sort their issues out themselves. Are you training separately or together? Husky’s play rough and are very vocal, this is normal, when you watch them playing look out for changes in body language, the position of their ears, etc, if you read them well enough you can step in before play escalates to a fight. I have two boys and they play rough, sometimes I have to say ‘what’s this’ ( meaning it’s time for a treat) they automatically sit and wait, it never fails and I use it in different situations. Good luck.


Sent from my iPad using Husky Owners

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.