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Husky is out of control need help!

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Hi I own 2 huskies. Maximus is a Husky/Malamute mix and Leia is a husky mutt. They are both rescues with some physiological and medical issues which we've been able to help with. However, Leia just doesn't get it. Her counter surfing is out of control. I taught her "leave it" and she is never allowed in the kitchen but despite the the very second I walk away she eating something off the counter! Her other issue is her separation anxiety. Her entire puppy life she was locked in a kennel, from shelters to homes, always kenneled. When we come home she has jumped on the counter, peed, pooped, gone through the trash, and in one case at 50$ in cash! We tried to kennel her but she knows how to open the kennel. So we zip tied it and she broke those off. She ended up bending and breaking the kennel, and injuring herself in the process. She knows how to open doors and the second I leave her in a closed room she cries and cries until either A. she can open it or B. I come in and see pee and poop everywhere. I have thought about leaving her kong with her but she has Pica and I am afraid she will eat it when unsupervised. The peeing is correlated with her bladder stones which she is on a prescription food for. I have no clue what to do! Her counter surfing is the biggest issue. She is a super smart dog but too much for her own good. 

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 You have THE husky Joy's.... 

Copy & paste these sections into a 'notepad Memo' on your phone/laptop.  As I have.   

Training is vital.. in husky owners it is sadly all left too late, or never started and kept up.  Hence too many are given up - min. 10/day in the UK... god alone knows there are TOO many dogs left.

Education is all - so please share.  You could save the anguish of an owner and, it's pet - companion.  

#1.    SA, Chewing, stress.. Just in case you think your furkid has this or will - it depends on you as the trainer Separation Anxiety, Chewing, Whining, Stress Filled Kongs; toys. These ARE safe to leave, (&, provided too big to choke on). Good idea for only one favourite when you're going out. Radio on. A 24/7 safe secured outside access is also ideal. And maybe a companion. Close off ALL rooms not in use for damage control. Mine have access from inner hall, through kitchen (all food out of sight) via 24/7 access to outside - 2 x 2L bowls of water outside in a high stand. Replenished/cleaned daily. ● New dogs... If two of you, plan & book staggered time/periods off / at home in the first week or two to share being with them, popping out briefly, so they get used to you out of sight. A weekend at home & then leaving them (and you are back to work), is NOT enough time for adjustment, settling in. Young pups have enough upset/trauma leaving litter pack & mum at nine weeks. Responsible breeders hold pups till a min 12 weeks - they are much more confident & 'socialised' within their pack, (and also taught manners by mum and/or other parent/aunts/uncles). However, this also looks like SA. S/he misses YOU. If s/he's left alone, isolated from the other members of their family pack, s/he will stress. My timeline (album/videos) has a subject on SA & how I dealt with this on all my three - [to be fair my new boy Blu was pretty chilled] - but he will grab loose books, papers to shred given half a chance, but so will my girl Eski or Chester. 😉 This breed is a companion, more than just a pet-@-home. So, here goes ... SA prevention/Removing SA 'exercise': When you can take them with you, do so. Let them see you from the car, (not in temps over 10°C because it rises +6°C inside a car) with you going in, & out of shops. Observe casually behind sunglasses, but also from inside th'e shops, not looking directly at them. There should be enough 'distractions' going on around too which gets their focus off you, especially if you've parked in the high street, but where they're not out-of-sight. I never leave my vehicle 'o-o-s' with them in although my 'camper' van now, can hide them, when they're in their crates, from outside peeking. The purpose is, they see you in and 'out of sight' for brief periods, but you gradually increase these periods. This is not a one-off exercise, but will be several exercises, over & a few times and weeks. If they start getting restless or behind to howl/show distress, 'magically' appear, and walk relaxed towards the car, and around it as if checking the vehicle. Before opening any doors/rear hatches, get them to 'Sit!' with words of praise when they do; REWARD. Check they are still secured inside (as per 2014 HIGHWAY CODE UK for transporting pets/animals in cars). Ensure they learn & follow in 'Sit/Wait' mode while you unclip from inside . Gather all leads securely /clip on to your canibelt (●very advisable to have, to prevent ever dropping leads if they make a sudden dash out, or anywhere). Beware of close moving traffic if on high street/motorised area where you are parked & ensure they cannot put a 'butt' out into the traffic or move into that pathway. Check traffic and then 'OK' to let them exit. I cannot stress how important it is that, when you go to get them out of the car, (anywhere) for a walk, teach them 'Wait' .. to stop & sit while you detach from seat belt hook up strap, and gather up leads. It IS safer to wear a canibelt with hookup on a locking swivel carabiner; hands are free but still able to grab lead/s to bring in close. Then go to Costa/Starbucks, or any dog friendly establishment, sit outside; this is good for socialising and exposing to much more, than just being at home. Meet & Greet folk. Desensitise to other dogs - distract them with 'here' & treat/reward. This is great for all training (including working on recall) and 'Down!' - may save their life... Use & say 'watch me' with fingers up to your eyes, and reward when they turn to look AT your eyes and refocus on you. 🤗 Repetition ++++ It takes 30 reps to sink an instruction in. Then more to create (hopefully) a reflex muscle action ... but never stop. It's harder to break a bad /slack habit than to make a new one.

Successdogs. Absolutedogs. Outback Dog Training Pages.

More to come..

Umbilical Cord Training :- 'Focussing' ON YOU.


May I suggest all 'training' research too, via :


Absolutedogs and 

Outback Dog Training Pages


Umbilical cord training... it really helps build trust, confidence & rewards in both sides.


Umbilical Cord Training 'Focussing' ON YOU.


One hour a day. ANY time.

So, a longer leash looped around your waist. Attached to your dog's collar. Long enough for them to lie down by you.

No words. No hand control. Do not touch the leash.

Go about your chores - ANYTHING. Gardening, washing up, making beds, cleaning, vacuuming - literally anything. Better you're active that just sitting.


The aim is to change their focus which is off you - especially when you go out on walkies - to remain ON YOU. At all times.

They have to learn to read YOUR body language.  

Your intent to move, or not, WHAT precedes your intent to move (your eyes, head & body action).  

Even one session creates a behavioural response.

I know I need to do more than the two hours I have already done on mine (ie, six hours; with three it's a challenge but very rewarding.. ) I The results are pretty sound & awesome!

They learn to 'hold back' at narrowing spaces (doorways) & let you through first - because the leash will hold them back anyway. They should give way and they do.

One of THE most effective training methods to get your dog to watch & anticipate WHAT & WHERE you are doing / going. 🤗👍



I have copied & pasted what I hope is helpful to HOUSE TRAINING your pup, or even an older dog. Rescues & shelter dogs are often rehomed because they haven't received appropriate training and owners haven't even tried and just given up.


We have to potty train our children, (and even then some parents don't)!


Please copy this & save into your own notepad to share...




Umbilical Cord Housebreaking Method


Umbilical Cord Training is a housebreaking method that’s pretty much what it sounds like – your dog is attached to you with a cord (his leash) throughout the day.

[I suggest however, an hour a go & maybe twice or three times a day with good breaks of rest, playtime too] ...

to start, especially with a youngster).


It’s a supervision-based programme that requires vigilance but yields excellent results with just about every dog or puppy. This method works well in conjunction with other methods, such as crate training or indoor potty training. 

It’s also a great alternative for those who spend a lot of time at home and prefer not to use a confinement method like crate training.


[Again, though, I would still have a crate indoors because at dinner parties, or if a lot of little ppl are present, you do need to protect YOUR furkid from being overwhelmed by a lot of humans around. In their own 'den, ⅓ covered, they have their own 'safe' place, and you have peace of mind they're not being pestered, or over tired in play]. 


This method is the perfect choice for preventing accidents, since your dog never has the opportunity to wander off to have an 'accident' in the house.

You’ll also be right there to correct him if he tries to have an accident, which is a great opportunity to teach him where you don’t want him to go, and to get him promptly to the right spot to finish up.


Most people prefer to use a six-foot leash for umbilical cord training. This gives your puppy a bit of room to move around, but he can’t get so far away from you that you lose track of what he’s doing. You’ll have your dog on his leash with you at all times when you’re in the house with him. You can hold it, put the loop around your wrist, sit on the end of it or tie it to your beltloop. You can also tether your dog to a nearby object, like the leg of your chair or coffee table or a door handle. Make sure that whatever you tie him to is not likely to follow him when he pulls. If you choose to do this, be sure you don’t walk away from him, leaving him unsupervised. Remember, the whole point of umbilical cord training is to have the dog right there with you at all times.


SAFETY NOTE: Do not leave your dog tied to any object if you aren’t there to supervise him, don’t let him wander unsupervised with his leash dragging behind him, and don’t tie him to an object that can fall over on top of him if he tries to pull away. Any of these things can lead to injury or even death. You must supervise your dog at all times when he is wearing a leash.


Some dogs, especially those who haven’t had a lot of leash experience, will fight and try to pull away when they have the leash on. If this happens, just wait calmly while your dog jumps around, fusses or fights the leash, then call him over to you and praise him calmly when he settles down. Giving him a bone or chew toy to keep him busy and distract him from the leash may also help. It might take a little time for him to acclimate to being on the leash, but most dogs give in and relax within a short period of time. If your puppy doesn’t seem to be improving, you may want to consider doing some obedience training to teach him to respond nicely to you when his leash is on.


When you start your umbilical cord training program, your dog may just hang out with you and choose to wait patiently to relieve himself when you take him to his potty area, since his instincts will likely make him feel uncomfortable going potty right next to you (so polite!). If your puppy’s this mellow kind of character, you’ll need to pay attention and keep him on a reasonable schedule for his age and level of experience

with housebreaking, as outlined in  Commandment #6.


If your dog’s a more active dog, you’ll likely know when you need to take him out because he’ll begin to fuss and show signs of agitation, like pulling to get away from you, whining, or suddenly becoming active. If you notice these signs or any other signs that he may need to do his thing, get him to his designated potty area as soon as possible. Remember, though, you don’t always need to wait for your puppy to look like he needs to go out. You should also be taking him out when you think it might be time for him to go because a period of time has passed since he last relieved himself or because he’s just engaged in activities (napping, eating, drinking, chewing, playing) that typically get his bladder and bowels moving.


When you take your dog to his potty area, remember not to stay there endlessly, waiting for something to happen. You’ll be more successful in your housebreaking if you get the dog into the habit of going potty promptly when he gets to the right spot. The way to do this is to stay in his potty area for only a minute or two to see if he has to go. If he does go within that period of time, praise him and play with him or take him for a walk as a reward for doing the right thing.

If he doesn’t go within that period, take him back inside or away from his indoor potty area and supervise him carefully to prevent accidents, then give it another try. The length of time to wait before trying again depends on the dog’s age and how long it’s been since he last emptied out.

For young puppies or dogs who haven’t emptied out for a suspiciously long time, you might wait only five to ten minutes before trying again; for older dogs or dogs who have had a recent successful potty trip, you might wait an hour or more.


The critical thing here is that you must supervise your dog closely so he doesn’t have an accident in between potty trips. If your dog is allowed any unsupervised free time and has an accident in the house in the early phases of umbilical cord training, you’re teaching him a very bad lesson. He’ll learn to hold it until you get distracted and stop watching him, then he’ll go potty in the house, since that’s how he got relief the last time he had to go. 

When you’re hanging out with your puppy, don’t let him out of your sight!


If you need to leave the house or are unable to supervise your dog for a period of time, he must either be left in an area where he won’t have accidents, such as a crate or indoor  containment area, or in an area where it’s OK for him to potty, like your fenced yard or outdoor dog run. 

Under no circumstances should he be left in the house alone and unsupervised, since this will allow him to have accidents without negative consequences and teach him that the inside of your house is a perfectly comfortable place to pee and poo.


Once the dog is going potty regularly when you take him to his potty area, you can start to allow him a bit of freedom, assuming he hasn’t made any attempt to have an accident for at least ) weeks. The best way to start to introduce free time in the house is to do it when your dog is least likely to make a mistake, which is after he’s emptied his bladder and bowels and at a time that he hasn’t recently had anything to eat or drink. After he has made a pee and a poo, give him a short period of supervised free time in the house. 

Supervised free time means you’re not holding the leash and the dog isn’t tethered to anything, but you still need to keep him in the same room with you and keep your eyes on him so you know what he’s doing and you can catch him if he starts to make a mistake. 

Start with five minutes for puppies under six months and 10 minutes for dogs over six months, then gradually increase the length of time as he proves himself to be a responsible guy by not having accidents when he has free time.


If your dog is more than 6 months of age, you can start to allow him brief periods of unsupervised free time when he’s empty, but only after he’s able to reliably handle supervised periods of 30-60 minutes on a regular basis without any accidents or attempts to go potty in the wrong spot. 

Allow him more freedom gradually as he earns your trust, but don’t forget about him when he’s out of your sight… always remember to be sure he has adequate opportunities to get to his potty area on a reasonable schedule.


● Puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t be unsupervised in the house, no matter how well they seem to be doing. You’ll need to wait until your dog proves himself to be responsible AND he’s past his six-month birthday before you advance his training to this level.


If your dog starts having accidents at any point after you start allowing him more freedom, you may be trying to progress at a faster rate than he can handle. Don’t panic. Just immediately go back to having him under your direct supervision so he doesn’t get into the habit of having accidents. 

Once he’s back on track, you can gradually start again to increase his freedom as he becomes more reliable & trustworthy!



Start from scratch.. you need to remove fear of entrapment, create a 'safe' den & place & her trust in you..

Crate Training


This is not cruel, but important for the safety of your dog, and folk who are dog shy, & esp for young children/not dog aware! Giving your dog a space of their own also gives them security.


Set crate covered over the top ⅓. Put in bedding, toys.

Door open.

Throw in a treat. Only when they go in & pick up to eat it, close door quietly. Let them finish, and then praise 'Good dog- into bed!'

Let them out again with a pat.

Leave a while, then repeat.

Leave in 15 seconds longer while you praise them again, & reward inside before you release.

Do this on & off through the day, leaving in longer, whilst you do your stuff, within sight. 

Leave the door open in between. Encourage them to go into 'Down' to lie down & settle in there. Always praise, reward & fuss.

Eventually (after at least 30 repetitions), ask them 'Go to bed' and encourage with a treat from inside the crate. 

Huge praises & encouragement when they do, and close the door. And reward.

If they don't, ask again, & point. 

This breed is a fast learner, however, remember they will always think over your 'commands' or requests so don't expect instant obedience. 

Bribery certainly works.  

Remain quiet, firmly staying and waiting until they give up & obey, because as you ignore all other options they might try with you, you.prove.to.be.the.more stubborn.

Do stick to small low/no sugared treats, and reduce main feed if they've had a lot of treats!

The more repetitions & successfull outcomes will create a muscle-memory response, (ie, auto reflex) so keep doing it!

Successdogs show how as well 🤗



Muzzles - How & WHY


Muzzles HAVE worked and DO.

I only have to show Blu (or any of them) one, when he gets over pushy/playing, to the point of making Chester growl & snap, to tell him 'pack it in' or 'this goes on'. 


My Blu has been here just over a year. (Came Nov 25, 2018).

He's gone from months of an aggressive bully, uneducated through NO fault of his own, jumping on anyone to fight, to sitting now, and 'being polite & nice'.


I expect another year before I would trust Blu to having one more to join my pack. 

He is still 'wayward' & very immature, and 'deaf' at times when being asked ... but a completely different dog in temperament to the first eight to ten months when he came.  

His self confidence in MY belief in him, his self belief that he CAN be trusted, AND trust back is 100% necessity, before I take on another.  


All mine know me, as I know them - every damn little ickle fickle trick they still try out on me - and lose!

Funny is way understated.  

Loving back because I forgive them and they forgive me ... this is all about husky ownership + human ownership back!


 (Even though hubby is -ve in this! (ie having a fourth last one).

I train. Every day. 


I reprimand Blu immediately if he starts to 'air snap' (a precursor if not stopped, to go into attack mode).

His eyes and head position pre-warn me before he can even start! And.. he knows I'm ahead of him because if he doesn't stop he's banned from the room (and company) & str8 into his crate into 'rejection/timeout'.


Removing the ability to do something naughty or wrong in children also works; and THIS breed IS intelligent in using logic to understand WHAT it means & WHY.

Never fails, & I rarely have to use the muzzle more than twice, except ... due to a new 'undesirable behaviour' that causes a near scrap.

#1 Husky breed, behaviour & traits.


Challenges arise on any day when something seems more important or desirable to any one of them, whether to have to stay & wait, or even howl & pace ..  but they may not leave 'that space'! 

Training is fun and always eye opening. 

Mine have learned to run by my mobility scooter, although two have pulled my dryland running rig.  Until my neck surgery happens, I cannot do this anymore.  They have been trained in basic mushing commands and watch anyone carefully we approach it or, passing by on ahead. 

Generally friendly, my girl is a flirt, but does bodyblock & my young boy is more protective, my older boy sits back in 'silent' guard mode.

All eyes watching. 

If my dogs are not voluntarily going to someone, I'm on guard too & cut the 'meet n greet' short.  Their instinctual behaviour = my best warning to beware. 

Look into how domestication of the wild ancestors of the Siberian Husky, believed now to go back over thousands of years since they first trod this planet. In the last few years, bones have been found throwing out the premise of just three thousand years ago.m, more like 30,000.


The husky originates from the Spitz.  Please research. There is very little dna evidence of descendancy from wolves, and the geneology is fascinating.   

I do personally believe the husky is as purebred a 'dog' specie compared to any other canine breed now. 

Cross breeding is abhorrent in my eyes as is the 'designer dog' for financial greed. 

No responsibility to the awful health & life of cross-breeds is considered, let along further passing of genetic/dna inherited health faults.

Too many to list. 

Below is a screenshot, with some info but I def read on a respected site (not Wikepedia) that it is possibly much longer than 3,000 years. Probaly 30,000 years!

Every little bit helps





The review on intelligence is interesting, and very sadly this trait is unresearched and underestimated, reflecting in the hundreds of huskies/similar type breeds that are abandoned around four to six months or older.

I am now 68.  I never stop learning, seeing & witnessing fascinating behaviour between my three.  I've been bitten badly during the rescue of my old Westie and my first young HuskyxMal Chester, aged then around seven months.  Chester wanted Wesley's bone, having finished his.  Wesley rightly refused and a fight ensued. My hand had a ripped top layer off the back of my hand as I was lifting Wesley away and up.  Chester caught my hand in an attempt to get Wesley, who promptly turned and bit my knuckles in reflex as I picked him up!

Three days in  hospital and cleansing out surgery, IV antibiotics.  

My casual training thereafter, changed, to a more structured effort, incI with mother Polly  and myself towards all her puppies, who remained until min 12-14 weeks before setting off for new homes.


I grew up in Borneo. My mother was a pioneer in bringing new chicken stock into Sandakan (from Australia; the three day old chicks arrived hatching enroute, by plane) to replenish local inbred & weak stock.  

We had around 3,500 - 4,000.  Mum also took on a very poorly sickly orphaned baby orangutan, barely 2lbs in weight, around 1957. 

That started something else ... and we had nearly 50 over the next ten years as fosters, in our care, plus our own Winnie (that very first one) who survived a #skull, dysentery and Sprue.  (https://rarediseases.org › rare-diseases


Tropical Sprue - NORD (National Organization for Rare Disorders)


The return to normal intestinal structure and function may be slower if treatment is begun later in the course of the disease. In some cases, Tropical Sprue may ...


Signs & Symptoms

Related Disorders

Standard Therapies


https://emedicine.medscape.com › 1...


Celiac Disease (Sprue): Practice Essentials, Background, Pathophysiology

Celiac disease, also known as gluten-sensitive enteropathy, is a chronic disease of the digestive tract that interferes with the digestion and absorption of food nutrients. People with celiac disease cannot tolerate gliadin, the alcohol-soluble fraction of gluten . https://medlineplus.gov › 


We also had Sun Bears, Clouded Leopards, Macaques, Slow Loris', many different birds, adopted, rescued or wild; many also were re-released. 

Otter orphaned kits x 3 which were bottle reared. 

Turkeys, as well as Gloucester Spot pigs. 

A rehomed young racehorse retired early, a circus pony saved from cruel captivity. 

Baby fruit bats too, found having fallen onto the floor of a Guantaneman cave I visited on a trip with my younger brother. They would have perished or been eaten.  I brought them home in a handkerchief, cared for these for a week, dropper feeding them and warmth with a towel wrapped hot water bottle.  One of the eight died, but the rest thrived and were released. 

We also had rescued Giant land tortoises x 2, and and an injured Anteater. ...../2

#2 ... Husky breed, behaviour & traits..


To protect and guard, I believe is instinctual to any cared for and mutually protected species, whether fully domesticated, or minimally (with intent to release back into their natural habitat).


The pharaohs had their own breed who were guard dogs and brave.


Huskies are incredible, compared to any other breed I've had or known. 





Nose - avoids freezing by drying up in subzero temps.  Are now being used to find drugs and other items.

Muzzle- can sense raised temps on ice where this may be dangerous to walk or travel over.


Unique trait to this breed.

Eyes - multiple colours incl tri coloured eyes.  

Purebred Malamutes only have Brown or Amber eyes. 

Their eyes are almond shaped, can squint in blizzards, to still see, and their eye physiology has been found they are devoid of Tapedum, which prevents snow blindness. 

Very expressive too; mine use these exaggeratedly to beg, ask, ignore, or look at me admiringly (usually whenever any food is about!)

Wide head incorporating extremely high and underestimated intelligence, the ability to think before acting, and ... applying logic.

Very fast learners within the right training environment.

Ears - the Siberian Husky is THE only true Husky breed, & there are many other husky 'types.


Their ears are higher set in relaxed mode than a Malamute.  The Alaskan Malamute was bred to pull far heavier loads, ie, as a 'work horse' for haulage.

Their larger body mass takes longer to cool down after extreme exercise.  The Siberian Husky is light of foor, so can traverse more easily over fallen snow for longer, whereas the Malamute steps in deeper but has the strength & stamina to work steadily through this.  

Digestion - Unique also in how they can run if necessary for several days without food, breaking down their own bodies safely, for more energy.  

Humans go into ketosis if starving. The husky's digestion used to take only seal or whale blubber, being able to convert this into a full nutritional meal.  They also ate raw frozen fish. Over the years, domesticated huskies' diet has changed completely.  

They would not tolerate that blubber now.  However, they do not carry enzymes to digest/break down gluten, wheat, maize* (*uncooked), and require a higher percent of protein in their diet. 

Certain fruits & vegetable are safe. 

● Raisins, grape family are toxic, along with other things.


Legs - Their legs maintain a min 2°C temperature so do not freeze (unless wounded by injury) and have thick fur between their pads.  Nails can actually 'grip' into ice to aid stability and speed.

Coat - double coated after approx six months there are three lengths.  Short furry, Med furry and long/wooly. 

The outer guard hairs protect from extreme cold, and sun. It should never be shaved or cut unless for medical reasons. It sheds constantly, hence they are one of eight cleanest breeds. Within hours of a mucky dog, whether from bloody bones to running through mud, they are practically if not wholly, pristine!  The undercoat is their 'eiderdown jacket' enveloping the whole body. 

In times of plenty, and/or seasonal temperature changes, this will 'blow' in huge amounts over several weeks with a sleeker slim appearance until the new undercoat is established. Grooming regularly maintains a healthy breathing coat (avoiding hot spots).

They can withstand temps to minus 50°C.  Their belly is very furry but longer/lighter fur than body coat above - this also stops nipples freezing, as in shorter haired dogs with a smooth almost hairless belly would.  

Husky dogs dig out a  'den' in deep snow to stay below the icy winds. The famous 'Swish' of tail when they curl up covers their nose, to allow warm air escaping but also warming the air breathed in.

Huskies carry their tails high and in a curl.

To other breeds this often causes attack because it indicates (wrongly) dominance.

A Siberian Husky tail normally doesn't curl full circle.

A Malamute's tail is tighter and touches down on the back or hangs slightly lower and off centre to the side.  

Their tails 'perk up' sitting higher, when happy striding out on a walk, in that comfortable swaying sinuous body motion.

They are not reliable on recall given their very high prey drive, so look out in case they see that squirrel 👀or rabbit 👀 first, 🤦‍♀️ or you may meet a tree painfully hard ... or mother earth. 😖😉🤗

Please don't hesitate to contact me if needed. Have to go for now.. much to do.

Marianne aka Maz


Teaching no growling or 'resource guarding' eg, toys, bones, food, general.  


This excludes a REASON for this, eg, if being teased, abused, hurt...


It is best brushed against the fur in short brisk but gentle strokes, and not pressed hard into the body - this really loosens the undercoat.

Remember to move around or 'a burning' sensation can affect your pet; (eg, alike to you scratching yourself nonstop on one spot - it can begin to 'burn'). 

The dog groom tool is the same, however mine seem to prefer long strokes) & both ways as well. You can in a full 'Blow' have to 'release' the tool after EVERY stroke..- it take eg, three weeks still, to get 'through' like the groomers & the "rake" still needs to be used.

This tool is very 'prickly' so very slow gentle strokes underneath on belly, only.

Around the collar area is most popular.

However.. the tail is I think the least favourite being groomed; doing this by hand, when mine are feeding is the best.. otherwise it's a two person job with bribes/rewards at the head end! 👍🤗

● I started stroking - just the once - when they started their feed, (twice daily), over a week .. then adding a couple of pat's, on the back, and (almost like it was absent mindedly) a stroke along their sides as I move around them.


Twice daily over a week - on all three of mine, over a week.

Then a long stroke from neck to tail. 

A gentle pat/press on their right hip got them to step with hind legs to their left - with a few pat's of praise & adding 'Good boy/girl Move'. On the left hip: they shuffle to the right.

'Move' teaches them to move later on other occasions, alike to when they are blocking a doorway, narrowing access, or anywhere.. saves getting impatient because they don't (know) recognise that word. 

Now, I can spend longer on all of them each, even around their heads, on top and up & down legs - a quiet voice of praise, or stay, or wait... new vocabulary becomes added into their consciousness. 🤗

The grooming started like the pat: just one stroke .. followed by a pat as I moved around them during feeding.  

(Both my rehomed Eski & Blu were 'extreme food guarding/resourcing), so extra slow over a lot of extra time. 

(With my Chester, I started from the first day he started eating).


Teaching 'leave it' or 'Give' : as in Successdogs, Absolutedogs AND Outback Dog Training Pages, step by step training however, Successdogs teaches the HOW in any new command, trick or discipline you are asking of your dog / but especially a Husky. 

Restart the basics if they don't 'get it'...your fault not theirs.


Remember they reach maturity (around three) and have the intelligence of a two to three year old max.. some 'brighter' than others! They can learn over 150 words, commands too. 🤗👍


Praising your dog when they do anything nice without you asking - eg "Good dog Sit .. Down.. Wait.. Give .. Leave ... Come .. On Bed..." etc. When praising any nice action.. they will then start to associate with a given 'ask' or command - ie, using Logic.. 

Adding in your own specific hand signal is good too. Commanding silently is pretty awesome.

I use my eyes in direct eyeball to eyeball then look at the floor = I see you. You see me.. I look 'Down' to say Down, or Sit.

Watch their eyes if they come 'begging' to come up on bed, or sofa.  

Mine all ask. 

If I say 'No, away down' I am refusing that request.

They know, albeit 'huffily' and looking away completely, they turn around and lie down. 

If I say 'OK' and/or pat the sofa or bed.. they know and can,and they do! 🤗

Edited by Maz51
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Biting, mouthing pups/dogs, including bad behaviour. & so many do this as they grow up.. 

Young pups mouth, and nibble. Mum teaches them not to, but too many leave too early to learn. So it's your responsibility.

If you don't they can become more dominant, and aggressive, and hurt you, your visitors and young people. 

When they start (including ANY) undesirable behaviour, - no words - just clip on a lead to their collar & lead them away from the social gathering into a quiet room, and leave alone - three to five minutes.

They hate rejection. 

When they're quiet, let them out. Observe. Repeat immediately if undesirable behaviour starts, with lead on, into isolation. 

This breed is so intelligent; they'll usually grasp it within three.

As soon as they sniff, lick but cease bad behaviour, on returning, reward by word & treat saying 'Good girl/boy, Be Nice!'

Ensure they have a 'den', ie, a covered crate in which to go to be left alone if they choose.

This can also be used (with reward in early days), to go into & 'stay' & 'wait' with door closed, if, say you have dog shy visitors, or workmen coming in.

● Look at 

Successdogs. Absolutedogs . Outback Dog Training Pages for so many tips on TRAINING.

If you don't train - especially THIS breed - from early on, by five months you can experience bigger problems, because they are also bigger.

They are one of the most abandoned breeds today, (at least ten a day in UK) and all because training was not started early.

Positive Reward Training all the way. 


● Family meeting a new dog, in a shelter or out of it.

Many dogs are not used to or have ever met children, ie, little people!

Many people/children too, don't realise this either.  

With your next meet and greet, please let them get to meet you first & your partner. 

When your kid/s come forward, ensure their hands stay down and 'quiet'. 

If they're in a small space, but it's still their space, too many crowding in can be scary/threatening! So maybe one at a time.

Stroking should be approached along the SIDE of the face, to behind the ears, with slow gentle movements, so no sudden movements, not straight to the top, as this can indicate a strike or attack. 

Keep noise & movements, to a minimum. When/if you take them home, ensure they walk round on a lead to thoroughly investigate the whole house, so no strange areas. And the garden or area in which they may relieve themselves. Have a water bowl down for them too in a designated place.

Make sure they have THEIR space, in which to go, with a big enough crate which is ⅓ covered over the top, to create a 'den' and they should be left in peace when they are in this. 

● Young pups need rugs on slippy floors until their joints are strong (around a year), or hip dysplasia may present. 

Set ground rules with kids and around your pet, and training is vital. 

Do not let children interrupt their feeding or when chewing on a bone. 

YOU need to show them how to 'leave', 'give', 'wait!' and 'down/stay'. 

It is never a dog's fault for 'bad' behaviour, always a human's.  

Like kids, dogs need to learn manners, respect, trust, AND discipline; this must go both ways too. 🤗

Successdogs. Absolutedogs. Outback Dog Training Pages

●  Inattentive dog on lead, jumping

Re your jumping dog when on lead..

Hi... (He = all gender)

His 'focus' should be ON YOU. So training...

Look, watch, learn & apply.

This WILL take time, but the rewards are fab.

#1 Successdogs

#2 Absolutedogs

#3 Outback Dog Training Pages

Also: Umbilical Cord Tethering...(Google); SO important to get them to start watching YOU .. what you are going to do, what they need to do. 

I also do the ODTP (#3) one... tell (ask if ok too) someone who is sitting with their dog (one is better than any more, for this exercise) .. that I am 'in training mode' with my three:

I'm going to, from a distance first, walk past, and then back again, repeating this many times over... but, gradually getting closer to them. I might say hi/hello only but keep walking (with intent & purpose) past them.

(Don't stroll). Encourage your dog with a clicking of your tongue, and 'Walk On, Leave' ..praising with 'Good dog! Walk on! Leave!' when they do so... 

Keep the distance if there's a reaction, but just keep walking by, turning around (20-30 yards) and walking back.

As the boredom sets in with the repetition, you can slacken off your lead - but watch closely for change of behaviour so be ready to hold firm.

When no reaction, move in a bit closer on the next turnaround. And just keep going 'with purpose'.

This also works when near livestock - and repetitive training: ie, at least 30 times; it can also take their focus off livestock. Works eventually on other dogs around you, but if infrequent, may take longer ... eventually.

Reaction is often down to something being an 'unknown' threat - to them or to you.  

It may be excitement to want to play.

But.. their attention must be ON you - nothing else... 

With one dog it's easy.  

With more than one, this can take longer, and I had to repeat the 'walk by' exercise eight times at three yards finally with my three, talking quietly with praise, and, occasionally just stopping, with a 'Here' : they stop, turn & sit, facing me; I reward with a treat, & praise 'Good dogs, here! sit' then 'Walk On' and we all continue.

It takes 30 reps to get a new command/exercise in ... over several days, and repeating at least twice weekly. (I repeat other exercises daily, & at least once). 

Reflex behaviour then becomes auto-reflux, ie, automatic as in 'muscle memory' training. Whether by hand signal/s, whistle or voice/word.

Always use one specific command /signal for one required action.

Martial arts is learned by repetitive training of 'patterns' of blocking, attacking, defending .. over & over.

Music : repetitive playing of a piece until it's perfect - again muscle memory applies also in learning pitch (reproducing the right note every time in brass/reed players - in mouth/embouchure technique) in the right sequence & correct rhythms. And memorizing - playing a piece with hours & hours of practice & perfecting.

Your dog has thevintelligence of a two, maybe a three year old, but attention can be distracted, so repetitive training brings on an automatic response behaviour. 🤗

In early days - always..

1: Reward within three seconds with a 'Yes!' Or clicker.

2: ignore a wrong but keep striving for the right.. & reward.

ANY Punishment eventually will create pain = fear = defence = aggression = then attack without much provocation.

Good luck!

If you don't train.. you will have a deaf dog, unresponsive, inattentive to YOU.

Win their trust, respect & confidence in you, they become an asset right beside you.  

And, that all works both ways - especially Trust & Respect. 

These must be two-way.

'Body blocking indicates they are protecting you by putting themselves between you & a potential threat.  

Learn to read THEIR body language in positioning, stance, head, eyes, ears, tail... that's the magic of knowing & understanding each other. 

Their voice can also say a lot in what, how, they 'talk' back to you, or at you, and their eyes are incredibly expressive too. 

A twitch of tail, licking lips, or mouth - all = speaking back to/at you. I respond with pursing lips, a smack/kiss at them, 😘 or licking my lips 😋. This always gets my boy Chester to move to me... 🤗

●  The four quadrants of Training. Copied off web site.

What are the 4 Quadrants of Operant Conditioning!?

Okay, relax, I know this likely sounds like something out of a science book but it's really pretty easy to understand... Not only that, but it's super important too!

The 4 Quadrants are Positive Punishment, Negative Punishment, Positive Reinforcement, Negative Reinforcement. Positive means to add, negative means to remove... Reinforcement means to increase a desired behaviour, punishment means to decrease a desired behaviour.

Positive punishment (P+) – This is adding an aversive stimulus to prevent the behaviour happening. Examples are a check on the collar, an e collar etc.

Negative punishment (P-)- This is removing a [desirable] stimulus to reduce the frequency of behavior. If a dog jumps on a person to greet them, and the person walks away when the dog jumps, negative punishment has been employed – that person is removing their attention to reduce the frequency of jumping in the future.

Positive reinforcement (R+)-This is adding a [desirable] stimulus to increase the frequency of behavior. A dog sits and gets a click and a treat. You go to work all week, and are reinforced with a paycheck... See it's not just dog training! 

Negative reinforcement (R-) - we are removing an [aversive] stimulus to increase the frequency of behavior. Your alarm clock goes off continually until you get up to turn it off – the behavior of getting up to turn off the alarm clock has been negatively reinforced. A dog runs away from the handler and an electric shock is administered until the dog begins to return to the handler (not that I agree with this but hey ho it was an obvious example!)

The four quadrants of Training

So when do you know to use them!? Well my friend, that's the hard bit and the knowledge comes in time. You can feel out a dog to work out when to use them but we can go over that some other time!

Multiple videos surrounding the quadrants in my academy so get yourself over there. In fact, there’s over two hundred videos now to help your training.

JOE - K9 obsidian academy group on fb.. 

Edited by Maz51
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