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Harness Training

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After 3 months of going back and forth with companies getting the correct size and finding a really good quality harness, we finally got ones that work.

I know that they are too young (10 months) to “pull” but my male drops his shoulders and digs in when I run him. 

He apparently only has two speeds now. Slow easy going walk or full on. LOL

Would it hurt his growth plates if he really digs in on a run hooked to just me or my husband? We are both average weight. The harnesses are the freemotion from Non-stop.

 I am also looking into getting a motorized scooter so I can run them without them actually pulling it.

 

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I used a walkyourdogwithlove non pull harness to train Blaze , it goes by weight so you know itll fit and it'll be strong enough to hold them lol , worked wonders , he walks lovely now and wears a normal harness instead now
Good luck :) makes life so much easier when you can enjoy walking them

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With all of our down time lately, we have been working on walking nice a lot. LOL 

They are actually doing really good. Even had Hubby and my daughter taking them out since they have had to be separated. The pups have been really good with them. 

I want them to learn one set is for walking and going places and their harness is for Running.

 I really need to get them out running. We are not doing daycare anymore and we do not have any good dog parks to take them.

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As far as they are not pulling you should be fine for small distances.. 18 months is really the good age for pulling scooter or bike...

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3 hours ago, robke said:

As far as they are not pulling you should be fine for small distances.. 18 months is really the good age for pulling scooter or bike...

It would only be the  resistance of him pulling ahead of one of us while we are running with him. 

He knows easy which means he drops back to me   easing the pace. But the fist mile is insane to get him to calm down enough to listen. Just don’t want him hurting himself during that time but he needs to be ran to get him calm enough to do other training.

 

Here is the harnesses I will be using. The side straps (not adjustable) look too loose but everything else I think fits good.

Didn’t get a side shot of the boy. He wouldn’t stand still. LOL

F5B18125-07B4-4B7E-8214-04DD01FC936D.thumb.jpeg.9dc78cdc4a92fd3aa4d482bafdb24c1a.jpegEB3FE997-CB27-4617-A4CA-606FE4721632.thumb.jpeg.114081339236da3508769223d6f90a03.jpegDDCC7C27-D4DB-43F1-953B-F3F1144E6ABD.thumb.jpeg.ff386e6cf1214a7ebcc92577228146db.jpeg

 

 

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Is it Canicross you’ll be doing? For the protection of their joints they really shouldn’t do this until 12-18 months of age but you can start light training a few months before by building up the time you run slowly. It’s also important to get the right harness that doesn’t press on the chest as this will restrict breathing, you’ll know something isn’t right by how they sound when running. The other consideration with the harness is the connection from your dog to you is higher so you need the harness to be slightly shorter, if the harness is too long your dog will be pulled up from underneath. Canicross is fun and your 2 will love it.


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Yes Canicross.

(Last picture) I can adjust the back lines to shorten them.(?the lines coming from the back of the harnesses?) 

It doesn’t look like it from the picture because of their hair but the harnesses have a very low cut V that does not ride up under their neck. But I am not sure how it will push on their chest. I will keep an eye (ear) on that. Thank you. It said it was designed for Canicross, hiking, and bucking so hopefully it works. 

 Definitely will start with short distances. The boy gets out of breath just from zoomies and takes a lot longer then the girl does to recover. LOL I think the  pneumonia he had when he was 4 months has caused it. 

They will be 12 months in February. It will take a few months to get him to settle into it, worrying about him hurting himself jumping and pulling like he does when he first starts. I think he spends most of his energy acting like a crazy thing then just enjoying being out.

He wont be going with my husband during his full runs (10-15 miles) until I know he can handle it. Probably start on the shorter runs closer to September. But would love to take them on the shorter trails up in the hills as soon as they are able. 

My girl goes with the flow and is so much easier. 

Thanks for the help

 

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You’ll prob need to take water for them aswell, I did with mine, Cai can go good distances but Luka blue is better isn’t built for the long haul. If they’re wheezing then the harness is too restrictive but if they’re breathing fine then the harness is ok, good luck!


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Just re read that, should have said Luka blue isn’t built for the long haul, predictive text


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I was talking to a couple of teams here in the area... one couple has 18 😵. They stated to also start putting a little water in their food to make them take in extra water to help with that. 

But I am definitely looking into water containers and bowls that will be easy to take with.

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I learned from a professional - Vicki Pullin of Arctic Quest very near me, who races her hounds & huskies for GB :

Do not run dogs within four hours of eating food ... OR feed them within one hour after running.    Start building muscle and stamina with walks, brisk, and gradually lengthen distances.   

If bikejoring, scooter or rig running, start with 1/4 mile sprints. Rest and repeat.  Increase after 5 days, if continual runs are daily.  Carry water, always.  Check pads when home for any injuries, cracked pads or sore feet.  Paw wax is useful to protect as is coconut oil.  Good luck!

Dark tongues = low 02 levels.        Enlarged pink/darker pink tongues are normal, these help them cool off.  Adding water to food (esp with kibble) will definitely help ensure they are hydrating.

Temperatures NOT to run in: if over 12°C [53.6F], too warm.

if T + Humidity =100 then not safe.

Humidity over 60/80 will make your dog struggle because there is much less oxygen present. 

Running them with a motorised scooter is fine, but avoid prolonged periods on hard, paved or concrete surfaces as this is bad for their joints. Variable surfaces are good eg, paved/concrete, grass, packed earth...gravel may prove uncomfortable plus unstable. 

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@Maz51 thanks for the info.

 I picked up paw wax today. Ya, they don’t know if they should walk or not LOL I also got a set of boots to try out.

We have 0 humidity here 90% of the year, so that won’t be too big of an issue. However, we do get 100 degrees and higher in the summer. I won’t even walk them over 50. 

Was hoping to get them just comfy with the equipment and commands so during the summer we could go up the hill because it is cold enough to hold the snow most summers. 

But the larger groups run the trails up there. *little nervous about getting in there way* 😰

Love the info about their tongue. Never heard that.

Because of their allergies, I wipe them down with witch-hazel every time we come in. 

I am doing two hours prior and after right now but that is just for our low key walk/ lite jogs 3-5 miles.(Depending on weather). Or for when they went to daycare. But good to know it’s 4 hours once we start getting into it. (Every winter we see an increase in bloat and twisted guts from running our hills even with the Huskies) We just lost a K9 after a search training. It was sad.

 I thankfully have plenty of soft open areas. My only issue is others let their dogs run loose and it causes issues. So I have to find times were a friend or family can go with. Uggg

Thank you!

 

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Glad to help wherever.🤗

Booties good to protect, not provide warmth, but the varied training ground/surfaces will toughen their pads.  Vicki's dogs have far less issues in the winter racing abroad compared to many local dogs, which confuses the hell out of her bigger competition.

She swears the mix of mud, (hard slog), water, grass, packed earth, some tarmac, gravel, concrete on her training grounds goes hugely to really toughening her dog's pads.

If there's 'cutting' ice then booties protect, and are certainly good over an injury, if there's an open wound however your discretion to not run is paramount to allow rest and healing if exercise delays this.

Beware of stagnant water & by rivers - be aware of Alabama Rot.  Rinse /hose down feet after and dry carefully, checking for any nicks/scratches, punctures or spring seeds getting in deep between toes. Xx

1 of 3 - Husky facts... I love sharing info so bear with me... 🤣😃

I keep this on  my memo pad.. •

Sizes - From smaller Siberian - fleet and light of foot and ability to cool down body heat on long distance runs and cope better over new fallen snow. •

The heavier Malamute has a much bigger body mass so cooling down takes longer. These are the power dogs used in big teams hauling freight - a team of 18 can and do .. collect and haul back empty oil barrels discarded by oil companies - at a steady 8mph to even 18mph. • Head - brain - truly incredibly - wide head with acute intelligence and very quick to learn with sensitive & patient teaching.

● Digestion - still not fully understood HOW their metabolism digestion has a 'switch' that converts stored body fat into energy for longer periods running w/o food than any other canine breed.     In days of old, mushers fed only (☆blubber/seal fat) + frozen or raw fish, to their teams & carried this on longer excursions between the 100's of miles separated villages. They were fed on alternate days too.  (Practised by some today on raw feed regimè, & huskies can cope too), but not pups. Necessary nutrients/ minerals still need to be considered as Huskies back then also foraged on roots/plants, fish. This ☆feed regime is no longer used nor could it be tolerated in our domesticated huskies now. http://siberianhuskyclub.org.uk/health/ https://books.google.co.uk/boo...ber teams of old&f=false

● Their coat colouring varies throughout the many different demographic breed types incl more 'wooly types.

● Ears - acute hearing - more so than your average woof or any other.

●Eyes - Almond shape : allows them to squint in blizzards, whiteout conditions to still see.  Excellent long distance vision.

● Nose - dries up so it can't freeze in sub Zero temps.  Much higher scent accuity then GSD's/others, & used too by Police in drug searches.

● Muzzle - in white out blizzards where the musher cannot see anything on frozen lakes - they can sense/feel higher temps especially where the ice is thinner... and divert around (research 1925 Nome village run). • Belly - all furry so no freezing nipples- their positions are hilarious - to cool off faster!

● Coat - https://www.snowdog.guru/groom-husky/ https://www.snowdog.guru/never-shave-a-husky/

● NEVER SHAVE A HUSKY. Coat has a two fold purpose: top coat longer guard hairs protect against adverse weather - in ALL temps minus low or plus high including sunburn!  It can collect snow/frost on it but repel water too - up to a point; some don't  like water.  Maybe they fear freezing (gene memory?) ● 'Eiderdown' (and second) undercoat : 'blows' due to surround & conditions - (in those outdoor nomadic dogs with or without a travelling tribe, they will only 'blow' if temps change &/or food times are good). ▪Grooming regularly is important - mine go to a knowledgeable groomer at end of second week of a blow usually bi-annually as it's then established & comfortable for them to be 'plucked'/ raked / blown /blasted then shampooed and blow dried. Anything that CUTS the hair is not advised (e.g. furminator - quite some controversy over this !) Dbl toothed rake, pin cushion retractable brush best. A Dog Groom Tool attachable to vacuum is great if introduced early on or even through positive reward to accept this (incl crate, appliances and new stuff!)

■ Huskies are in a group of about seven breeds that "self clean"  beautifully, so batheing is not necessary unless they've rolled in something unmentionable or not olfactorily tolerable! 🤣  Because they shed constantly, dirty hair discards faster.   Wipe down with a wet sponge and wipe dry then rub dry or blow dry. ● Groom through thoroughly to ensure creases are fully dried out ... as damp matted fur patches can lead to bacterial 'hotspots' forming very quickly, causing scratching, crusty smelly sores & a costly vet visit.  (Shaving & exposing these areas dries them out faster, Leucillin spray has been reported as good to use, or ACV - good to dab on, and when crusty coconut oil - antibacterial/antifungal) ... The small damp top area of a hotspot belies the much bigger area affected under so shaving to expose the fully affected area is the only way to let it dry out and apply a mild steroid cream &/or oral meds. Cone on dog to stop them scratching/licking.   Fur grows back in approx 2 months... 😍🤗

Cont .. 2 of 3 ...  Husky facts...

●Leg circulation - blood temps regulated so the blood does not go to the core (like ours then causing frostbite) or hypothermia, but stays at 2°C so no freezing up on those long distance race/or runs. Booties are used to prevent injuries on Rocky ground or packed/cutting ice). They are worn to protect not warm. However : NB : frostbite can & does occur in the sickly, injured or because of skin pawpad breaks (eg, from skid burns) in skin incl those in weather (but not) weather acclimatised domestic huskies.  url=http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky] http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky[/url] https://www.huskyhouse.org/husky/ ... Cont 3 of 3

3 of 3 Husky Facts cont ....

●Tail - the beautiful 'Swish' curl allows them to curl up in snow and breathe in warm air blown out with tail over nose/muzzle.

● Paws - furry padded to keep warm too... and grip

● Nails - in a husky these can extract to grip on ice conditions (for climbing rock face and trees too - it has been recorded - but how they get down.. I don't know!) No other breeds are known for this...   https://iheartdogs.com/all-about-huskies-8-fun-facts-you-may-not-have-known/

I'm still finding out more after six+ years...   enjoy!   Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app www.successdogs.com - 🤗

Personal input, relevant to wannabe husky owners....

Some jolly good tips here - on Siberians..training, is this breed right for you?  Consider very carefully, as you read all of this! However .. I disgree with using ANY furminator that cuts hair. 

● Never EVER do this to a husky breed except for medical/health reasons. https://shibashake.com/dog/siberian-husky-facts

End

Marianne

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You're  welcome!

I trained my two to spin by following biscuit/treat in front of their nose.. first Gee - round to the right, over and over over during one week.  Then Haw - round to the left. 

Then I could just move my hand in the direction, then a finger flick, or shoulder gesture, now just a word. 

I walked them out on a two dog gang-line, getting them to

'Ease up, Whoa!   Walk on. Hup Hup Hup!  Gee gee gee' (in advance just before they reach a divide in the path, or 'Haw Haw Haw!' and 'Good dogs!' when they respond.    Vicki suggested I swap their positions around simply to run differently, however Chester prefers to be on the right of Eski and he'll push her over for a Haw command if she doesn't turn.  She's a lazy learner but, has proven she's perfectly capable and can follow commands, but Chester is definitely my lead dog. On by, (Ignore! Leave!)          Go by (Go past or, overtake).

Wait! (stop, wait)

(Just remember, and it takes min 30 repetitions to get training INTO this breed, and they really can learn quite fast. 

I still use all these commands on general walks and trained them initially on walks out, in harness off my canibelt... for nearly ten months whilst saving up for my Bruce Hall rig.  It really was worth it.  My first run booked at Vicki's was fabulous!  She was very impressed how well THEY ran for her, before I did.   Sadly, I haven't run for two years as I busted my knee 2016, and then my friend couldn't come out with me - you need a buddy, from a safety point... as it's  just not wise to run on your own.  I really hope to get out again soon, and, give my foster boy Blu, a chance to run too, beside Chester. 

Training & running...

An extra non-slip collar on your dogs should be connected via neck lines to the line / lead, plus necklines from collar to harness.  Basically, envisage any one item of tack on your dog, breaking and coming off; think, what else can you 'connect to', thus ensuring you always have a 'connection' so you cannot lose them! and when running, it may also mean a spare link/lead/line to you.

Check your gear regularly, and ensure your locking carabiners ARE locked off.  Washing harnesses and lines inside old pillow cases, helps stop them getting over tangled.  

Always rinse thoroughly after immersion in dirty water, or any, especially salt water, and, brass fitted clips are better than steel, (which can & do snap or break in extreme cold weather), however steel locking carabiners are fine. 

Safety gear, helmet, elbo/knee pads and strong thick gloves (I found some suade - like waterproof work gloves from Aldi), and I know these do protect my hands should I fall off!  

Sensible foot gear obviously, and elbow & knee pads may not be practical for actually running, lol.  

Good luck! And be safe.

PS.   I also have DogTrac.com  tags on my dogs.. plus an ID tag on their collars, engraved fixed ID (with my contact details) info tags ON the second collar and of course they're all microchipped.

Google DogTrac.com  🤗😎

 

Edited by Maz51

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At a walk... we are able to turn (everything is left to them though LOL) stop, line out, up up (go), and easy. 

My male has to be left. He gets snappy with his sister if he is on the right and will be the whole time and he gets that way during the start. 

He is good about leave it *now*, move on (unless it is something really cool).

Sister will drop back (trying to get by my side for a treat) stops in her track to watch birds flying over 🤪, but keeps a better pace, and can go longer.

At a jog... everything is out the window. LOL

I now keep a second collar on them since sister has snapped two collars. They are tagged (it’s the law here) and they are chipped (registered)

 It makes me nervous to take them out of the neighborhood by myself. Especially in our hills. We have a ton of bears and a good number of mountain lions. Or you run into Baggers and rattle snakes in the lower lying areas. I always carry when I am out!

Since sister ripped out her stitches the vet said I am looking at about 6 weeks for recovery. She can’t even do zoomies for at least 3 weeks, no chewing, no digging (she eats the dirt and we don’t want dirt up in the whole), and no rough playing with brother. Uggg!! My pups hate me!!! Both have ate the tips of their tails off because they are so board. But at least that gives us time for lots of the basic training.

You have a lot of great info. Please let me know if you think of anything else.

 

 

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