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Hey,

Had our puppy for nearly a week now. She’s 6 weeks gone Saturday. The breeder let her go early because her Mam had rejected the puppies. My question is, what is the best way to stop biting? I’ve read conflicting info online and was wanting to know from actual owners on what works and what doesn’t. What we should do and what we shouldn’t? I read we should grab the scruff. Is this correct? Should it be done every time the puppy bites? Should we grab it and then take her to the floor on her side?

Thanks

Amanda 

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See this is why they need to stay with their siblings until at least 8 weeks

5 weeks is when they should be weaned off mum and onto solid food so I doubt mum actually rejected them, it's illegal in most areas to allow pups to go before 8 weeks too

 

Yelp like their brothers and sisters would do if she bit them too hard

 

Never scruff and pin her , outdated methods that will end up causing more harm than good

 

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app

 

 

 

 

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No no no xxx

Apart from the fact she's really far too young to leave her mum, you need to nurture & protect her.

I would seriously check just why the mum rejected them.. and how old is mum?!  Was this her first litter?

Have you seen her papers, and asked for any health checks ref inheritable traits? 

I won't rant on.. because she desperately needs loving.

A little pup this young needs 5-7 meals a day and more nutritious wet than solids but ask on Husky forums too..

Goats milk is more suitable than dairy - again research on reputable dog/veterinary sites.

Clean paper down, for house training, but if crated, or nursery penned, keep one half papered, one half with bedding; old towels, to turn around keeping scrupulously clean and maybe a wrapped hot water bottle for warmth and a soft toy to cuddle up to. .

If she's biting just move her away and hold firmly.  A gentle tap on the nose with a No won't go amiss but the rejection will help her understand that that behaviour is not acceptable.

 

When she's bigger, isolation into another room for several minutes, (no words, just clip on to lead and walk her out).

Bring her back in and when she's good praise and reward with a small tasty treat. 

Successdogs.com shows you so much for good behaviour and positive reward training.

She would do this to her siblings and if it got too rough Mum would intervene by separating them.  

You can potty train by stimulating her genitals in a stroking motion with a soft tissue and also, (as mum would while still nursing); when she's bigger, you can put her out on the grass outside but supervise and bring in when done.

Also she will need worming regularly and should be microchipped ... and checked over at your vet.  

Obviously innoculations will be needed too, and your vet will advise.  

Lots of loving and gentle handling with a routine ref feeds every four hours minimum to eight weeks then at least 5-6 times a day from 0500  through to 23:00hrs but if she cries you'll need to seek something a little more substantial at 23:00 hours to get her through the night. 

I used to feed mine soaked weatabix but I'm told this is not right.  Never hurt my Westie pups though!

However Soaked Xcel 32% protein (Red Mills brand) is perfect for nursing mums, weaning pups through into adulthood.  It is wheat, gluten & grain free (corn maize is good!) and mine two HuskyxMals have and are still fed on this.  You can order online.  

A guideline is : overall daily portion/s ref their adult predicted weight, spread over several meals a day.  

A teaspoonn of Kefir keeps their gut healthy, and a teaspoon ACV diluted into their water bowl keeps their immune system healthy too. 

Ask google ref benefits too on these, plus a peasize dab of coconut oil.  A raw egg won't hurt and let them chew the shells too - extra calcium! No bones or rawhide.

Frozen carrots are great for teething & treats.  Research wrong food for huskies /dogs.  

Many are toxic, incl plant bulbs/roots. 

Raw Bones, after their second teeth come after six months, but never unsupervised & remove all splinter bones.

Large good quality rope toys are better than cheap stringy ines - these can be lethal. 

🤗

Remove uneaten food. Clean bowls daily & fresh water always. 

Edited by Maz51
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Hi, shame the mum rejected the pups, they shouldn’t really go before 6 weeks as they miss out on learning important social skills from the mum. I definitely would not grab a pup or a dog by the scruff of the neck, positive reinforced training is the way to go if you want to have a healthy relationship with your dog that’s built on mutual trust. The days of showing your dog who is the boss by dominating him is an outdated way of training and your dog won’t thank you for it. Pups biting is a little like babies when they’re teething, but it’s something that needs dealing with before the big teeth arrive. With mine I had chew toys to hand and if they tried to bite my hands I’d say no bite and then give them the toy, with consistent training your pup soon learns. Training a pup should never be done with him fearing you because he may turn out to be an aggressive dog. Good luck [emoji6]


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Mine at 7 weeks we’re like Puranas!!!

 I am not kidding!!! Couldn’t touch them to save their lives without getting shredded.

My male out grew it. My female.... LOL. Will still take your fingers off. They are 8 months.

DO NOT SCRUFF, flick them, or any of those out dated stuff.

Once the teeth make contact, scream out in pain and pull away. Move away from the pup. 

They will learn that doing this (bitting) will get them no attention and will stop the behavior.

(my female is special and loves the reaction) But has softened her mouth a little.

 If I remember correctly it sucked for about 2 months and then they started controlling it

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Better to clip on lead & walk out of the room putting them into an isolated room for a few minutes, and/or until they are quiet.

No words, no smacking or shouting, just  'the silent treatment', and no harsh or painful tugging, just quietly & firmly walk them out.

Bring them back in. Repeat if same behaviour occurs.

WHEN they stop  biting, nibbling, or behaving in ANY undesirable manner, reward instantly  with 'Good dog! Be nice!' And a small treat within three seconds.

They are highly intelligent and one or two isolations per 'bad behaviour' is usually enough to teach them.  Remain quiet and otherwise non responsive - do not create shock or fear or hurt.. as defensive aggressive behaviour will come out eventually. 

Positive reward training all the way.  

Successdogs.com

Absolutedogs.com

Praise the good.  Ignore the bad however 'react' with quiet removal/isolation.  🤗

Edited by Maz51
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  • 2 weeks later...

@Maz51 Hi Maz,

The person I bought her off said that the mam rejected them and they had to bottle feed the puppies. She doesn’t have any papers. I saw the mam and she was really friendly. Yeah, it was her first litter and they said she was 2 and a half. Luna is doing great. She will be 8 weeks tomorrow and weighs 5.1 kg as of Monday gone. She has been vet checked and just had her first injection and been microchipped. She does seems to bite a lot and tries to go for your face, shoes and legs. Is this normal? I’m guessing it’s just puppy behaviour. She sleeps with us at night and gets plenty of attention/love. My boyfriend is home all day and I finish work at 1.30pm. She cries and kisses me when I get home. So cute. Do you think think the time out method is best for when she is biting? 

Thanks

Amanda

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5 hours ago, lovelife82 said:

@Maz51 Hi Maz,

The person I bought her off said that the mam rejected them and they had to bottle feed the puppies. She doesn’t have any papers. I saw the mam and she was really friendly. Yeah, it was her first litter and they said she was 2 and a half. Luna is doing great. She will be 8 weeks tomorrow and weighs 5.1 kg as of Monday gone. She has been vet checked and just had her first injection and been microchipped. She does seems to bite a lot and tries to go for your face, shoes and legs. Is this normal? I’m guessing it’s just puppy behaviour. She sleeps with us at night and gets plenty of attention/love. My boyfriend is home all day and I finish work at 1.30pm. She cries and kisses me when I get home. So cute. Do you think think the time out method is best for when she is biting? 

Thanks

Amanda

Time out is best. 

No face or mouth play. Don’t intentionally play with her face.

Yes it is normal.

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On 11/6/2018 at 8:41 AM, Maz51 said:

Ok.. it happens with lots of puppies and at this stage they'd be mock fighting, in playtime, within the litter pack - it's nature to establish strength, leadership, dominance in all the rumbunctious behaviour.  

Your her 'pack' now!

When things get too out of hand or Mum's had enough noise and wants some peace, or wants them to rest, she will separate them, pulling one apart (usually the most active) and push them away (or pick them up) placing them away from the group, licking, loving, cleaning or encouraging them to feed.    As they get older and, rougher, noisier, sometimes a nip, growl (as if to say 'Enough!  Pack it in!' occurs, and then warning them away/apart to 'calm down'. 

As yours is now at this stage, you do the quiet firm treatment.  I said 'silent' treatment,  however there's nowt wrong with a firm quiet  'No' and taking them out for a couple of minutes, even popping them into their crate or on their bed saying 'bed', but closing a door or, covering the crate side so they can't see you. It may only take two/three goes and when they come back in and nuzzle, lick or look quizically at you, (but they have stopped the bad behaviour), praise with 'Good girl/boy!', give a small reward treat and some fussing.

Begging for attention has it's place & time, as we too, need 'down time' or, peace, to work, and they learn fast.

When routines set in, they will get to remind you, so, like their dinner time, it's worthwhile varying by a half hour (to an hour or even more when they're older) either side of the usual time. 

And, as sharp little milk teeth change around six months frozen carrots are great before & for this teething & chewy stage.  I also give mine one after their evening meal but also just before I go out, to keep them occupied as I exit!

Avoid bones until second teeth are well established as cracked milk teeth are not wanted. Deer horns are extremely hard, and last, but again, not till at least a year old.  Supervise raw bones, & remove splinters.  Pick up and pop in freezer if enough left for a second go, but don't leave down if you are not there.  Freezing raw bones actually breaks them down a bit - I keep all spare stock in my freezer.

Kongs are great too.

Good quality large rope toys help too with chewy mouths..   ● Avoid cheap thready ones as these can be and are, ripped and ingested, causing blockages or even death.  ... Loss of appetite, lethargy, vomiting may be an early sign, so keep track of toys, and that they haven't suddenly disappeared.   I put my ropes through the wash also, to clean up if they've been dragged and thrown around outside, even now. 🤗

My earlier post:     Better to clip on lead & walk out of the room, putting them into an isolated room for a few minutes, and/or until they are quiet.

No words, no smacking or shouting, just  'the silent treatment', and no harsh or painful tugging, just quietly & firmly walk them out.

Bring them back in. Repeat if same behaviour occurs.

WHEN they stop  biting, nibbling, or behaving in ANY undesirable manner, reward instantly  with 'Good dog! Be nice!' And a small treat within three seconds.

They are highly intelligent and one or two isolations per 'bad behaviour' is usually enough to teach them.  Remain quiet and otherwise non responsive - do not create shock or fear or hurt.. as defensive aggressive behaviour will come out eventually. 

Positive reward training all the way.  

Successdogs.com

Absolutedogs.com

Great DVD's off these sites too.     ● Training must start ASAP, or you'll be in trouble!

Praise the good. Ignore the bad during command training, however 'react' with quiet removal/ isolation where & when  appropriate.  🤗

 

Edited by Maz51
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2 hours ago, Maz51 said:

 

Thank you very much Maz. That’s a lot of really helpful information and appreciate the time and effort for you to write it : :) Love the frozen carrot lol. Will definitely try that. Do you know where there is a good reputable list of what foods are good for them? 

She is definitely not as bad as what she was say 2 weeks ago with the biting. She already comes to me when we ask her too and sits as well. 

Changed her over to Taste of the Wild puppy food and I add freshly cooked chicken breast and peas. She seems to really enjoy it. Is tripe good for her?

Btw where are you based? I noticed you used the word “nowt” I use that word too and I’m in the North East of England. 

Thanks again 🤗

Amanda

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On 11/6/2018 at 8:41 AM, Maz51 said:

Ok.. it happens with lots of puppys and at this stage they'd be mock fighting, in playtime, within the litter pack - it's nature to establish strength, leadership, dominance in all the rumbunctious behaviour.  When things get too out of hand or mum's had enough noise and wants peace, she will seperate them, pulling one apart (usually the most active) and push (or pick them up) placing them away from the group, licking, loving, cleaning or encouraging them to feed.    As they get older and, rougher, noisier, sometimes a nip, growl (as if to say 'Enough!  Pack it in' occurs, and then warning them away/apart to 'calm down'. 

As yours is now at this stage, you do the quiet firm treatment.  I said 'silent treatment, however there's nowt wrong with a 'No' and taking them out for a couple of minutes, even popping into their crate but covering the side so they can't see you. It may only take two goes and they'll come back in and nuzzle, lick or look quizically, but if they desist, praise with 'Good girl/boy!', a small treat and some fussing.  Begging for attention has it's place & time time, as we too need 'down time' or peace to work, and they learn fast.  When routines set in, they will get to remind you, so like their dinnertime, it's worthwhile varying by a half hour (to an hour or more when they're older) either side of the usual time. 

And, as sharp little milk teeth change around six months frozen carrots are great before & for this teething & chewy stage. Good quality large rope toys help too.

Avoid cheap thready ones as these can be and are, ripped and ingested, causing blockages or even death.  Loss of appetite, lethargy, vomiting may be an early sign, so keep track of toys, and that they haven't suddenly disappeared.  I put my ropes through the wash also, to clean up if they've been dragged and thrown around outside, even now. 🤗

My earlier post:     Better to clip on lead & walk out of the room putting them into an isolated room for a few minutes, and/or until they are quiet.

No words, no smacking or shouting, just  'the silent treatment', and no harsh or painful tugging, just quietly & firmly walk them out.

Bring them back in. Repeat if same behaviour occurs.

WHEN they stop  biting, nibbling, or behaving in ANY undesirable manner, reward instantly  with 'Good dog! Be nice!' And a small treat within three seconds.

They are highly intelligent and one or two isolations per 'bad behaviour' is usually enough to teach them.  Remain quiet and otherwise non responsive - do not create shock or fear or hurt.. as defensive aggressive behaviour will come out eventually. 

Positive reward training all the way.  

Successdogs.com

Absolutedogs.com

Praise the good.  Ignore the bad however 'react' with quiet removal/ isolation.  🤗

 

I"m in Tewkesbury. I use nowt simply because I have northern friends too, & pick up all sorts!.  My dad loved Noel Coward and he'd use 'shewn' not 'shown' .. eg.. 🤗

I was born in Denmark, grew up in Malaya, Brunei, Canada, Borneo - moved home 38 times.... 😊 not military.

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