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Hi, my name is Janine and I have 2 boys, Cai, my red who is just a year old and Luka, a grey, who is 10 months old. I take them for a run off lead daily, not together, and I really want to get a scooter for them as they have limitless energy, so my question is what age is best for them to start running with one.

 

 

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For what it's worth - take it or leave it. I learned so much in the 'how' to then succeed in the 'do'. www.successdogs.com with Jean Cote got me through the training to getting my two huskyxmalamutes

Great, thank you. Holland, very nice. Sent from my iPhone using Husky Owners mobile app

Not really...

18 months would be a good age to start...offcourse now is a good time to teach them the commands for left right stop etc...

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For what it's worth - take it or leave it.
I learned so much in the 'how' to then succeed in the 'do'.
www.successdogs.com with Jean Cote got me through the training to getting my two huskyxmalamutes to pull a rig AND do it well.

You can't run before you can walk, right?

To get your dog's attention...it's
Lure
Capture
Reward

Lesson One
Same quiet room.
You on chair - dog lying down opposite.
Place treat on floor by your foot.
If he moves - say nothing but cover with foot. (Lure)
Make him go back to lying down.
Uncover foot. Repeat as necessary with only foot move if he moves for it.
He'll  eventually stay put but keep looking at it. (Capture).
WHEN he finally LOOKS up AT YOU :
 'YES! watch me!'  & REWARD within three seconds. (REWARD!)
Practice practice practice. 
If he stops or doesn't 'do' .. cut the lesson 'BREAK'...for an hour or so.. go do something else..play in the garden with him or chill.
Go back to 'lesson one' & re'inforce this.

I started with the basics on his (Jean Cote's)  programme. Getting my boy (before Eski came) to watch ME.
Not the toys or treats or, when we went outside to dive for the nearest post or bush or that smelly grass where something else had been.
That's embarrassing  - who's taking the walk ? lol... 
Or the dog on the other side of the road or ppl..or anything...but me.

#####
The treat on floor by my foot and him lying opposite...
THIS is lesson TWO. (I actually started with this.. so good!)

Closed room..quiet - no distractions - pocket full of gravy bone treats - halved.
 - put an object on the floor - anything (I used a tiny teddy).
Say nowt..just stand. You want him to (1) look at that object.
Just wait.  You can look at it but you need to watch your dog... the minute it looks say 'yes!' Or use a clicker... and reward within three seconds. 
He might not get the message but wait. He (or she but I'll  stick with he) might then switch to you cos you have the treats...
So wait.. he looks again at the treat say 'Yes!'/clicker BUT REWARD within three seconds.  No words.
You say
'Break' after three minutes with hands put together in a silent clap/touch with palms and swept out and away to left and right (means lesson over - no more treats). Go play outside...

Keep this up over a few days for about 3 minutes - use different objects.  He'll get the message that YOU want HIM to
2. LOOK (FOCUS) on that object.
Ok, when this happens automatically in the first step... and if he proceeds faster to then go SNIFF it - YES!  & reward.  Keep going with this going on and when he goes to pick it up (& probably drop it)  'Yes!' & reward..
He'll get there ... and when he
3. picks it &
4. drops it in your held out hand.."Yes! Fetch! good boy!'
Practice - they're so bright...and want to please!

Patience....you want to run in a rig... or scooter or bike-jor ?  One step at a time. Lol
Now...when you've  got through the look, focus on, fetch back to you / your hand...OR
5. hold a bowl (sink bowl's good) to drop object in or ano bowl/bucket...
Throw two toys away from you & say 'fetch' ('pick up' is good too) and hold your hands over the bowl on floor.  He will (get it &) run & 'fetch', and bring back to you ..as he drops it into your hand.. let it go into the bowl and 'yes! - fetch here!' & reward.
When he doesn't do anything or goes wrong IGNORE.  Keep focussed on the toys on floor,  point, say fetch, and wait.  He'll get the message..  always..IGNORE the wrong & don't scold. 
Bear in mind if he doesn't get it he'll get confused or give up - so
 'Break'.. pat & fuss but no treats but he will know you're not cross .. just quitting for now - he might be tired.
Get back to it later.. start at lesson one and then try again.
He'll get there & you can chuck out more and he'll bring them all back. 
I went on to get Chester to pick up his & Eski's bowls & bring to me before dinner time.
Come back to lesson two.  I use 'watch me' with two fingers up to my eyes...

Now... when you're out for walkies... use the 'watch me' with 'Here' to get him to turn round and look at you - & when he does reward !
Gee - right turn
Haw - left turn
Straight on - straight on
On by - ignore. . Leave.. move on
Go by - pass/overtake.. ignore
Easy up - slow down (you can re'inforce this leaning back to slow down..
Whoa - Stop
Wait - stay still - wait
Line out - - move until the harness/lines are taut.. can practice this on a strong pole or tree..
Walk on - move on...
Hup! HUP! Speedup. . Get cracking .. with enthusiastic praise as you go.
AVOID TOO MUCH CHATTER if they're going good..
... and give enough notice for turns coming up with calling to your lead dog by name (or the one that listens to you ... if at speed - better if you say 'ease up' / 'easy' with a touch of brake so they not only hear you but feel your intention in pulling back...
Gee Turn = right turn 180° - back the way you came
Haw turn - left 180° - back the way you came. This last bit is done with you turning them the way you want with 'Gee Turn, Gee Turn, Gee Turn'. . Then 'Walk on'! Hup! once you are straight.
Same for Haw Turn...
Practice practice practice and keep rewarding.
Practice 'Here!' To make them turn back to you for a treat with 'sit' before you reward.
Watch their ears and body language.. figure out which one likes to be on which side and encourage them to walk like this in prep for running.
Temps are rising slowly so..
No feed 4 hours B4 a run.. or for one hour after. Always carry water...
If Temp & humidity reach 100°C too dodgy.. tongues also go darker with low oxygen levels.
You've good prep time before they are old enough.. so crack on..
The above is how I trained.. on foot, in harness, saving up for my new rig for nearly a year.
I bought a decent 2nd hand Pawtrekker Scooter - just needed a good service, brakes & cables. Hope to christen it soon as soon as my left knee is strong enough.. (ruptured Anterior Cruciate Ligament last Sept.) I'm 65.. living and loving life. We go cruising in summer...

Doing Gee & Haw is easy.
Start in kitchen. . Biscuit in front of nose and saying Gee - make them follow the biscuit round to their right.. as soon as they complete the turn, 'SIT' and reward with BISCUIT.. keep repeating.
Do the same for Haw - turning to their left.
Keep on every day.. must reward within 3 seconds.
Eventually you'll do a flick of hand, a finger then just by word. . Even a shoulder in that direction.
Going out walking in harness/lead line if two together (better a canibelt than both hands tied up and no/shoulder or arm jerks.
The Dogmatic's are excellent to stop the pulling incl on canibelt. If I need a help getting up a steep incline or steps I switch lines or leads from dogmatic head collars onto their walking/joint running harnesses. .and say Hup! And they haul me up.
Handsfree let's you grab and pull them up to short handle close control). a807622dc57526903b6019398d158f22.jpgc2dc37114d374b2d0a94ae70c6f1e47b.jpge54a90293ca2a253fb841b3f156b09e4.jpgf from Snowpaws/Hooners) 'H' harnesses by Hooner's are comfy for out walking & extra safety links (necklines) from harness to nonslip collar and/or extra connection from a semislip collar to your lead lines, with locking Carabiners, a swivel one too so no entangling on lines/leads and a bungee (enclosed). Mine are just over 12st together - I have a med-strong bungee. Basic canibelt fm Snowpaws us v good.

b20fb8688042a029ee0c4c5c0d3f6ba3.jpg
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Very good luck. Start indoors with each separately.
My Eski really learned by copying Chester but, I did start with separate instructions.. making Chester lie down & be still.
They don't like being separated though.
They have their own fb page: Chester and Eski Cottee. Go to videos in 2014 & 15 to see what they have to do at dinner time.
It's an ongoing session retraining.
Ask around for the gear to get & look around for a decent scooter.. You'll need helmet elbow & knee pads too. Never go scooter joring on your own and learn (if anytho g hspoen you have a backip buddy; and know where you can run - pavements are out & too dangerous bear traffic. Your local council will have knfo on this. Even bridle paths may not give you 'right of way' so be confident your dogs do obey you. Check out separate Insurance too : IFSSD

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I started new commands when out walking, I took them separately, Cai first and as we were nearing home Luka was howling! They don't like to be separated but needs must, Luka weighs 6 stone and Cai is 5 stone, hard to manage both at same time, had an op on my hand and elbow in Dec. I've looked on snowpaws site for the right harnesses and equipment, very excited with this new stage for them, thank you for your advice.


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Cai is a quick learner, I noticed the difference walking him when I used 'on by' as he wants to sniff everything, he looks at me for instruction a lot, Luka is a little slower with learning, not because he's dull, his only concern is food.


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What a difference commands make on a walk, a very enjoyable hour and 20 mins this morning! I took Cai and Luka and to my surprise Luka listened, understood and put into practice. I used on by and he only stopped twice, it's usually in double figures. It's exciting watching them work together.


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It is! And well done you.
Re -enforce at home all the training tips & tricks. Do a few outside ( waistbelt full of treats, to play games/tricks outdoors when walking...creates a better Harmony when out.. distracting them.
Have them sit in front of you... wait till quiet and watching. . Lift a knee. They'll catch on to put a paw up. Change knee to change paw.. fun fun fun 🤗 and always reward.later you can get three tricks/ obedience to one reward.. but for now reward every good deed. Ignore the wrong.
Use your eyes to look at where you want something .. their paws are their hands. They watch your eyes a lot too.

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Thanks, always have my bag with treats and wipes etc, they automatically sit for treats. Will try some tricks later. Funny you mention distraction as I have 2 boys ( human) one is autistic with ADHD and my youngest is autistic (asperger). Cai and Luka remind me of my son with ADHD, the principles I've used parenting him I've tailored for Cai and Luka, distraction distraction distraction works like a charm for all! I'm not saying Cai and Luka have ADHD but there are some behavioural similarities, so I find managing them part of a regular day. They are an amazing breed and I'm looking forward to seeing their full potential. Thanks for your advice, appreciate it.


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Maz51 pretty much said it all, haha!

i personally use the tug-n-tow http://www.tugntowbikeleash.com/ 

Its great for newbies because it takes care of the rope so you can pay attention to training more. It attaches to your bike so its ready to go. I use that and a leash for training as some times they wont listen or forget to stay to my right side of the bike where i like them. So i lightly nudge them the other way. You dont let them pull on it, its their for reminders and training. 

It took me and my first dog a few months to figure out what we were supposed to do and how to do it. Now, together we are flawless. Went to add another dog in the mix....square one again haha! Now he wont take directions. He lets my youngest do it! Shes a good listener and learning fast because i know what im doing more and my oldest some times helps.

Figure out who will be the listening leader and teach them left and right commands before going.

Once you are going. On calm streets and with no people or cars to distract them. Teach them stopping commands by doing it at each cross way. This is something after a year of trying i got my oldest to understand. I found that using marker like a cross walk helped. Once they are stopped make sure they dont walk forward or else you repeat the command. If they walk to you thats ok but not away. This is stop as in no more forward. 

To go again tell them "lets go" or what ever command your using to tell them GO

If they get distracted call their name and tell them NO or the GO command to remind them to move forward. Praise them every time they keep walking forward and not to the distraction such as a person walking by or a squirrel. Personally i would do the same block or path you pick for quite a while till your convinced they are ready for a new path. my oldest can go onto any path while my youngest gets sniff crazy and distracted on new paths. Oh, puppies~

https://alpineoutfitters.net/Scripts/default.asp i just got a harness from them recently. Alot of people use their harnesses, i think they are pretty good. But i should have gotten a custom harness as my dogs like to walk side by side and it drags the harness in a odd way. They also have gear to help hook up and attach your dogs properly 

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I have a tug n tow on my rig but intend to move it onto my Pawtrekker Scooter.. it's good to keep the line taut and not falling into the front wheel as it retracts as necessary... the bungee avoids jerks and wear and tear too.

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I can't wait to get going reading all of your advice, but I'm taking baby steps, teaching the commands first, I'm using them on walks and my two boys (human) are using them, it's going really well. Question, when the time comes should I train them separately on the scooter or together?


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I have another question relating to Luka, my youngest, 10 months, he was a little nervous when he was younger around other dogs but never aggressive, this last couple of months he's started growling if another dog passes by and his fur is raised, no teeth showing, it is concerning. Cai my red isn't like this at all, wondering if this behaviour will change, I don't feel I can trust him near another dog.


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Train together as you are out on walks together.
Here is Chester & Eski (on right) when I was at Ty Mawr last Sep - extended into a further few days. They're wearing their Dogmatic's which are a godsend to avoid pulling. Their walking harnesses (are also their first running ones) are from Hooner's and are 'H' harnesses with adjustable chest straps. I like these as they have a spare link clip from the shoulder section to clip on to a spare collar with a big D ring to clip leads or lines onto, to switch from walking mode in head collars to pulling my self up a hill!
Maybe I can order my longer ROK leads and then offer you mine with a third off list price? No worries to post to you. Brass clips on here are generally much better as the metal ones can snap in very cold weather or rust too.
b39903d5116dc4e7521fb1f6b9a0b819.jpgIt wil all 'slot into place' on the day. Choose a fairly quiet place or secure closed in field to create or use a track round the edges.
However there's no harm in doing separate one dog runs with your lads as two may be too much and too fast if your boys are not very big.
Let them choose which they'd prefer to run with - great bonding in this and for you it may be better with two re weight. My boy at 6st.6lbs could pull three of me and back in 2014 I was 14st.11 lbs
I'm 14st. 2lbs now and reducing - (my goal wt. Is 12st 10lbs) so your two would be prob ok with you.
Helmet is a must (any head protection.) Aldi's ski helmets are cheap & strong. I have suede waterproof work gloves, (again from Aldi but Dixies are good) to protect hands in a fall, and it may be prudent for knee/elbow pads if yours are fast - Sibes are great sprinters!
Check out Ali Bradley & his videos on FB - he has 7 & boy can a team of 3, 4 or 5-6-7 move!

Where do you live?
Arctic Quest in Tewkesbury J9M5 could possibly help in getting you started on a run on their site - you can ring and enquire (it's on the www site).
That's where I went for instruction and training and it's about 10 mins from me!
I have a friendly farmer who let's me run on his tracks round fields; I always have someone with me -and I avoid tracks near livestock and I've loads of tracks to choose there.
Avoid long concrete or pavement runs as it's hard on their joints - grass, packed earth/gravel and mud/soft ground all good.
● PLEASE check where it's legal to run (via your local council or local folk/forums in your locale) and get other Insurance - as your own pet insurance will not cover your dogs or you if you run into someone or other dogs!
Big dangers are dogs off lead who attack yours or just get in the way or worse, a child runs out.
Some ppl just stand in the goddamn way too!
You may want a long long lead on a dog first with your boy/s on the scooter /rig so you have some resemblance of control in the beginning.
I cannot stress enough that you choose a secure closed field/area.
Plus Extra clips (necklines) on harness to a spare collar (main one should not be on a semi-slip but a fixed collar that can't pull over ears but not strangle them! - with neckline to each collar if running two - (this way they don't pull a semislip collar and part choke on each other when running)! and a neckline to the main lead line to scooter.
Even a light weight rope from main dog direct to musher, should musher become separated from scooter/rig !
●Just think 'WHAT IF' scenarios and keep safe for all esp your furkids.
Do check their pads after for cuts or bruising or raw and remember only 100yd runs to start with in early days. Pads need to harden up too.
Paw wax may be a useful first aid to have.
Gradually increase distances over a few weeks but no more than a mile max.
Watch and time their breathing rate recovery. .
Each dog/person is different to recover and stop panting.. my big boy takes much longer than my big girl and walking to cool down, like athletes do is good.
● Check temps/humidity - I mentioned this earlier.
If they overheat - cold wet towels, stand in water and small laps of water at a time.
If they're really distressed - get to vet asap. Remember ... darkening tongues are not good so stop and rest a good few minutes or stop and then walk them back when /if willing.
Their tongues do enlarge and lengthen on longer runs to aid them cooling down and you'll KNOW a happy face when you see one.
Never force to run.
Have fresh water always - I refill and carry a large bottle in my boot with a small bucket to let mine drink from. ..
They need to build up strength and stamina/fitness levels and YOU also need to push using YOUR legs on slopes and get off to run to help them.. your lads too... a good musher does a lot of running too on steep slopes and helps the woofs - it's not just a free ride-on!
Don't yell to 'go faster' but keep calm and watch their body language, ears, tails - are they keen to go? - it should be brief and fun and they and you will bond faster because running together like this with you and yours is and should be 'PLAYTIME!'
If not every day runs then a good long walk in between days is better on nonrun days and, keeps fitness levels up. If you haven't been out in a few days or a week due to weather, do not go for a run.. but build up again on long walks - a good hour+ at a brisk pace for a week ... is wise as you could have a nasty scare if they push too fast too hard too long! And your furkids will try hard . .to please you.
-----
With your youngster growling I'd suggest (first) going out walking alone with him on a lead (with Police Handle for close grab control; *ROK leads are fab and stretchy - used by the military - again Google for *these). Keep up a brisk pace ensuring he is right beside you.
I have short leads (too short really for mine walking in front so really need the longer ROK ones - mine are more suitable for Sibes & so I actually want longer ones for my bigger HuskyxMals - maybe we can sort something out re P/X & I'll pay the difference+ ? ...
You'll need reward treats and need to distract him every time he starts to look elsewhere, by turning away and going in the opposite direction. Back and forth if need be so he gets bored and starts watching you more!
Maybe do some tricks/games with him - high fives, sit, down, spin Gee/Haw as you go.. Reward immediately when he responds to your voice calling him with commands.
Praise 'Good boy Leave!' As you walk past ignoring that post or bush or something interesting... or dog!
I did resort to a basket muzzle for a while, on both mine, so treats can be put through the sides and they can drink in these too.
They recognise they are at a disadvantage so cease getting into all macho/bitchy mode & this really helped but.. it is also you using constant distraction with them, change direction.. do not slow down and keep praising as they turn the way you want them to.

Measure from nose tip to behind ears along side of jaw/head for right muzzle size - they are a tan plastic and give ample room for them to pant in.
A yellow kerchief on lead or collar indicates 'Not dog friendly' during training & you can get sleeves with this written on to slide over your lead or 'In Training' (or write on a highviz vest!) to tell folk to leave you alone.
Also - getting to Husky 'meet and greets' in secure off lead areas (indoor riding menages are fab - small fee to pay if nmbr's are good) and will help your two - this breed is pretty friendly as packs overall.
Some rescued re-homed/in foster care woofs have old issues that can be ironed out over time with gentle patience, love etc, and there are many very experienced folk out there that can help you.
I go to meets rarely because there aren't any in my area.
When I do both mine are on leads and in muzzles to start.
They don't get to meet many dogs either, except on husky camps.
I walk round the outdoor or (usually) indoor meets until they settle down.
Then muzzles off... and we continue walking round - the same dogs still come to sniff and greet and everyone is supportive in watching their own dogs and mine - who are also in harnesses to grab hold of.
Then it's muzzles on but leads off. All round again, briefly.. more sniffs and tails start to wag...
Another check for 5 minutes.. so many are running around - but play time starts when they crouch, tails wagging and then dart off to a ...
'Come on.. chase me! Let's play. . Run! - whatever.
If all seems well I call them back (always reward, (make them sit) and muzzles off - but treats hidden now because every other dog cottons on you have treats lol.
Then they're are off with.. 'Be nice.. be good!'
No need for further rewards.. keep treats tucked away.
Always carry poop bags .. usually needed with the hype and excitement.
The 'meet and greets' in secure off lead areas are excellent in socialising your huskies - great for you too. 🤗🤗
Hope this helps.
Ask on www.successdogs.com too.

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Great advice, thank you. I had a basket muzzle for Luka, he's 6 stone and very powerful, as he became very ill after eating something off the ground when walking when he was younger, he hated it and constantly shook his head to try and remove it, I persevered with it and on a walk one day Cai pulled it off!
I live in mid-Wales and there are quite a few husky owners but nothing is ever arranged to meet and greet.
I'd be interested in the leads, when you're ready.
Beautiful pic!
Which walking harness do you recommend?


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If you want to you are more then welcome at Husky camp in May in Towyn north Wales

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12 minutes ago, chelseafan said:

I received an email regarding the camp but we're in Spain for a wedding, I know where I'd rather be! Thanks for asking. Is there more than one camp a year?


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there might be in October..just keep en eye out after the summer...I have a camp in Holland in August...

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Look out for Marc & Sarah Stridgen and Duncan (Marc's Dad) and Susan Stridgen .. they're in North Wales... ! And on FB. . As are Phil & Carolyne Borrowdale (I think?)
Camp in Ty Mawr is a week.. are you away the whole time. I'd hope to make Holland Camp.. tell me when so I can plan Rob - my son is going to Amsterdam soon - left for two weeks yes'day to Europe incl Berlin.. again, on a touring jaunt with his mate.


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We're away for the whole week. Will be looking out for October camp after the summer. I've spent the last couple of hours looking on different sites for equipment that I'll need to buy and it's a little confusing as a first timer knowing what's absolutely necessary from what's not.


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1. Decent collars with ID address/telephone no. on buckles - 'Custom Collars' online.
Extra semi- slip collars on too.. connected to harnesses with extra necklines. And a dbl ended loop short line from off scooter with a licking carabiner to the next connection - bungee then carabiner to gangline - single or two dog gangline..
1a. Neckline for two running to connect to each other off fixed nonslip collars. Extra necklines (all with brass clips) from lead lines to spare collars. Just think through "what if that breaks" .. what else have I got to connect and avoid a runaway furkid?

I am quite paranoid - quite quite paranoid!

That spare line/ lighter rope (to main neck line/dog/s back to musher not rig) over and above the two dog gangline from scooter/rig to dogs may just save their lives... again ask around re 'suicide line.... ?.
2. Two single lines with built-in bungee - get a med to strong one as your big boy will need this and prob Cai if he's heading that way. Loo at body weight combined ref max pulling strength.. the light weights are not goid on bigger woofs.
3. Two dog gangline - 'Y' shape - Snowpaws or Hooner's or Indi-dog or Manmutt or K9.. or other .. look ask around re prices - all fairly close
4. Single med to large strong bungee (enclosed in) to hook up with two dog gangline -
5. Locking Carabiners from scooter to bungee.. fm bungee to lead/ganglines. Snowpaws good quality - & gt; 6. 'Grivel' Swivel carabiners on own site - but I think Snowpaws do these as Swivel Carabiners as well now - stops leads twisting up when on canibelt walk outs..
7. Snowpaws' basic canibelts are comfy and wide enough and strong. May need two if your lads are taking one each... don't buy off Amazon.. not v comfy or IMO strong enough.
8. Harnesses - mentioned before.
My other harnesses only for running are DC Zero. X-backs are good too.
9. Adjustable long leads for walking out in front of you that can be shortened. . I have two but haven't sussed out how to shorten the damn things.. yet .. lol.. dumb blonde!
10. Walking leads eg ROK.. stretch ones.. if you get two longer ones I'll swap mine over as in hand, mine are just a bit too too short if they're walking in front of me and I'm tripping over their back feet!. These can be used off of a canibelt too with locking /swivel carabiners.. one off belt ring/s to lead handles. Maybe a bungee between you and handles too so an extra carabiner..which lengthens things out then..
11. Waist belt with poop bags, treats, a whistle (you could use this indoors to call them in from outside with a treat reward for coming. !) And to carry your phone.
12. Later .. a Go-pro Cam + 32GB card to put on scooter/helmet or on a chest harness... to record your runs but useful as an evidence backup should any unpleasant incidences ever crop up... I'll give u my one's name later - cheap and good pixel. . Gr8 quality playback on PC!
13. Check if you need scooter jor-arm to hold lines up off over your front wheel. Or a Tug n Tow..
14. Scooter. A good 2nd hand one - ask around what's decent.. they're not cheap new...
15. Or .. a Three wheel dryland running rig.. I got mine from Bruce Hall. He makes good reputable ones legal to run in if you ever want to take part in organised fun runs - beware of cheap ones as they don't pass safety checks at the organised events and you won't be able to enter. I saved up for a yr.. £475.00. My 2nd hand scooter = £250.00 including a full service, new cables and brakes at my local friendly bike shop. Got it from another trainer/ with own pro-racing team.
16. Stout boots.. trainers won't grip on the runners in muddy conditions.. waterproof overalls all-in-one .. or find old stock army surplus pull ons.. with a waterproof top. Warm Layers for cold weather. Goggles too to avoid a muddy eye bath when woofs and front wheel chuck it at you.
17. Maybe a good boot liner for the car for muddy dogs...
18. I have a small trailer my rig can sit on top of with all my gear under.. it has a tarp to tie down when not in use and keeps my 4x4 fairly clear of clutter - but I'm a tool colector freak too..heck. trailer, boat, & trailer, caravan - I NEED my tools!lol - but when you've lines and tack..harnesses, 8L water bottle.. bucket etc.. .. it all helps. I also need my 4x4 for a 2.5+ ton little Cruiser (30yo) and it takes my little caravan 28yo....
18. A couple of old towels and a big sponge to wipe off worst of mud on dogs' legs... plus bin liners for dirty foot wear..
19.. head torch if you start doing fun runs at night. 🤗
I'm sure I've forgotten stuff but hey.. buy a bit every month...spread the cost - whilst your in training on foot - get those musher commands off pat..
You'll need to increase feeds when running them more as they'll burn more carbs up. Look at best protein around 31% intake but carbs too. Low salt.

I feed Excel - £23.99/15kg sack - small kibble fir puppies thru to adult plusfor nursing mums. My local small "Animals Only" shop gets me in what I need - I spend average £45 - £55 pcm on food incl treats, dried chicken feet - good roughage, and Kefir - which I have too.
I have raw vacpac - Forthglade/Lovejoy - and incl fish/seafood off these at least twice a week. These store on the shelf & great for camping! - they get 1/4 each in morning and pm feeds (altho Eski gets less & Chester more fue to bidy wt ratio) so 200g each per day plus minus half to plushalf small mug of Excel kibble with a dollop of Kefir, (2 tblspns) and a flat 1/2 tspn of coconut oil twice a day - gives silky coats! with a dash of water to ensure hydration. Three eggs each a week over alternate days with crushed-in shells - calcium. Raw veg chucked in too when we are preparing and a frozen carrot after to clean teeth.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Husky Owners mobile app


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