Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 After reading through some discussions on the shout box, thought i'd pop this on, just like to point out that i'm describing here what I have done personally, not telling people what to do, just giving ideas - please feel free to add your own experiences / ideas to this The topic came up about clicker training and whether or not a clicker should be used. I think they are a good idea but as i have not used one personally, i can't really comment lol. When i was training Kimba, say for example, SIT. I stood with a piece of food in my hand, raised it above his head and said SIT, moving the food over his head - his bottom automatically hit the ground in a SIT - the second his bum touched the floor i used the word GOOD and imediately gave him the treat. When training - it's imortant to reward - either use a word like i did or click the click the INSTANT the dog does what you have asked him/her to do. They learn much quicker this way than if you have a delayed reaction. Eventually, as the sibe gets more and more used to the command, you can use affection as a reward as opposed to food, alternate for a while and then soon, they wont expect food at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laura_3173 Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 I did the same as you Sarah I had a treat in my hand and i raised it above Lex's head and pointed at his bottom and i would say sit alls i need to do now is point and he knows exactly what i mean! Paw is a bit more tricky what i did was i kept the treat in one hand so he didn't follow my hand down and then i would say paw and pick up his paw slowly but surely started to recognise what i did so i stopped picking up his paw and held out my empty hand sand said paw it was so sute the first time he did it he looked at me then my hand then his paw and then reluctantly lifted his paw lol now alls i have to do is hold my hand out and he gives me both paws lol Now lie down he hasn't quite mastered this one yet so i would like to know of other methods that everyone has used because I have tried saying lie down and pushing him to the floor but he just gets straight back up again I always praise him after everything good he does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 LIE DOWN Kneel in front of him and get him to sit - give a treat, Have another treat ready hold it clasped in you hand and raise hand to his nose Give the command DOWN or LIE DOWN (whatever you prefer) slowly moving your hand to the floor. Praise abundantly and give him the treat for any slight movement towards a down postion. Be sure to say the word GOOD when praising. Repeat for a few minutes and should work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 what about pulling and listening to u when u call him on a walk should i use treats for the callin bit when he cums when called give him a treat? dunno wot 2 do bout pullin tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laura_3173 Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Thanks Sarah I shall try that and let you know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex T Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 LIE DOWN Kneel in front of him and get him to sit - give a treat, Have another treat ready hold it clasped in you hand and raise hand to his nose Give the command DOWN or LIE DOWN (whatever you prefer) slowly moving your hand to the floor. Praise abundantly and give him the treat for any slight movement towards a down postion. Be sure to say the word GOOD when praising. Repeat for a few minutes and should work I do this also, but once my hand is on the floor I slowly move it towards me, further away from from Isis so she has to stretch out, lie down to reach it! If she walks forward i start all over again! As for walking I would start off with a few treats but then try some other kind of praise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 what about pulling and listening to u when u call him on a walk should i use treats for the callin bit when he cums when called give him a treat? dunno wot 2 do bout pullin tho How to Stop Dog Pulling On the Leash You can stop your dog pulling on the leash relatively easily by teaching your dog a simple 3-step "Heel" command. This simple command works wonders for both puppies and full-grown dogs alike. The Heel Command The first stage of teaching your dog to heel is to prevent him from pulling on the leash at all. 1. You will need to have the collar and leash on your dog. 2. Stand next to and to the right of your dog so that you are both facing in the same direction and the dog is sitting on your left. 3. Start walking forward slowly in a straight line, leading with your left leg. As soon as your dog takes off and starts pulling on the leash, stand still and pull the leash back towards you. Do not drag the dog back towards you. All you need to do is halt its progress. 4. Wait until the dog stops, praise it and then continue walking. No command needs to be given at this stage as you are just trying to teach your dog good manners so that it can more easily understand the Heel command when the time comes to teach it fully. If you apply this method for ten minutes at a time and for three or four times per day then within four or five days you should be ready to move on to the next phase. It is quite likely that you will get good results within a few minutes, at least enough that your dog will stop pulling you all over the place. It may take longer for some older dogs that have been given a free rein, so to speak, throughout their lives to change their leash-pulling behavior. Modifying the Training Sometimes you have to modify the way that you are training your dog slightly. When your dog starts to pull, you need to: 1. Stop and give your dog's lead a few tugs, and growl the guttural growl, ("AAHH!" rather then "NO") then bring the dog back beside you. 2. Start walking away again and hold a treat by your side (so that your dog knows it is there). 3. Your dog should be following along side you. If it tries to jump for the treat ignore it (do not let your dog bite at your hand though). 4. When your dog tires of that, and simply walks along beside you, say "HEEL!" then reward your dog for walking beside you. 5. Repeat this over and over and you should start to see the results. If you praise your dog as it comes towards you then your dog is being rewarded only for backing up (the very last action it performed). You need to reward your dog for walking freely beside you as you move off from the stand still. It may be a common problem, but your dog pulling on the leash doesn't have to be a nightmare. Follow the steps above, and you and your dog will be able to enjoy long, peaceful walks without incident in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex T Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 As for the pulling that "Cesar" guy (check spelling) does that shhh thing with a pull on the lead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 The most effective technique I have found for pulling is to change direction as soon as your dog walks in front of you. By changing direction, the dog then has to catch up to you, and they also learn that they cannot go where they want to by pulling. I also pop a martingale collar on my Sibe and give him a slight check when he pulls, just as I change direction. It is important that if you are going to correct the dog to pull the leash across your body, not upwards. As for clickers... I don't bother with them as they are just one more thing you have to carry. The concept behind clicker training is not new - I instead use a mark word (for me the word is 'yes') as you would the old fashioned way. I condition the dog to know that 'yes' means the treat or reward is coming. I don't phase out rewards because my training is based on prey drive, and I teach the dog to satisfy it's drive by completing a known command. I teach the dog that rewards always come through me and what I give him, not other stimulus. Just for fun this is a video of me training Micha at feeding time. Please excuse his jumping around at the start, as he is not used to being fed inside and kept slipping on the floorboards! It is important to get a dog to sit and stay for his food but largely important to get them to focus on YOU, not the food, whilst you are doing so. You can see Micha is always looking at me, not his dinner, in this clip. This is part of a training program that uses drive to train, you can see his concentration because he is being trained in food drive [ame]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=VrQJmmRbDY0[/ame] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 fantasitc video and great reply - added to rep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 fantasitc video and great reply - added to rep Thanks... I really need to do a better one, he can hold a stay with the same concentration for much longer but I felt bad for him as he kept slipping on the floor so I decided to release him early! That's another training tip I have found useful - the above video was before I really used markers effectively. Now, when the dog is in the stay, I say "yes" so they know they are doing the right thing. Then I use the word "ok" as a release. I do this in every command I use, that involves a release - with my beagle I use the tug toy... so when I bring it out she has learnt she can only grab it when I say "ok". Before "ok", she knows she can't touch the toy. This also builds up the excitement for the dog and makes them a bit frustrated, and that makes them more eager to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 am gonna start training tomorrow wit treats and clear commands (as hes asleep atm bless him) and see how we go would still love to c wot other opinions ppl have on this tho thanks to every1 so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 am gonna start training tomorrow wit treats and clear commands (as hes asleep atm bless him) and see how we go would still love to c wot other opinions ppl have on this tho thanks to every1 so far When using treats it is important to find something special and high value that the dog does not normally get. When I train my Sibe (as I train him in food drive) I use food that he doesn't get at other times, but is very high value to him - like sausage/kabana, cooked chicken, cheese etc. This means the food is higher value to the dog, as he only gets it when you are training him You also want to steer clear of 'harder' treats like kibble or dried liver because they take longer for a dog to chew and that is no good when you are training - you want something soft and smelly that can be eaten quickly However - you want to make sure you have a food driven dog. You don't want a dog that just takes food because it is there, you want a dog that goes WILD for food. You may find you have a dog that is more prey driven - that is a dog that would rather play with a toy. A good way to test what drive is strongest in your dog is to put a piece of food down and then roll a ball, and see which your dog goes for first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 ah he is very food driven so think we wnt have any problems there lol thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 greats tips there smeagle, added to rep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 ah he is very food driven so think we wnt have any problems there lol thnx No worries! Thought I might just mention it because so many Sibes have very high prey drives, and often aren't too fussed with food. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PawPrints Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 haha mine loves his food dont i bloody know it if i go 10 mins over his tea time!!! some good points raised on here by all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sneakersmama Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Great video. I really appreciate all your training tips. I know this is an older post, but was searching for info on the whole clicker training thing since I keep seeing is come up when I read dog training info. I like your idea of using the word "yes" instead since I'm not too hot one having a clicking noise over and over all day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyMukki Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 great video -I ned to do this. Mukki does the exact same thing training the puppy. He will keep a dog treat about a foot in front of him and the puppy cries, barks and squirms but Mukki doesn't let him have it until he is quiet. Watching your video I realized, Whoa! Mukki is teaching Quinn who is dominant, a very good lesson for me to teach Mukki! LOL We were discussing this morning how stubborn Mukki has become -I think this will do the job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BingBlaze n Skyla Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 No worries! Thought I might just mention it because so many Sibes have very high prey drives, and often aren't too fussed with food. oh no hes deffo food driven he got out this mornin :eek: and we got him bk in wit sasuages lol luckily he loves his food cuz he was runnin riot lol think we r lucky he stayed outside the house aswell tho i no it cudda only took 1 bird or a cat or anythin n he'd ov bin gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bec Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Great video. I really appreciate all your training tips. I know this is an older post, but was searching for info on the whole clicker training thing since I keep seeing is come up when I read dog training info. I like your idea of using the word "yes" instead since I'm not too hot one having a clicking noise over and over all day... Thanks I had to look back and make sure I remembered which video it was (LOL). I had a lot of trouble with teaching my beagle the 'stand' command, she just wouldn't hold it after I lured her into position. Since using the yes marker, she has picked it up really quickly, and now I can leave her in a stand/stay and walk quite a distance away, walk around her and stand back next to her and she doesn't break the stand :ran_biggrin: We aren't completely there yet but I was jumping for joy, it really helps the dog learn much faster, they pick up on what you want a lot quicker. great video -I ned to do this. Mukki does the exact same thing training the puppy. He will keep a dog treat about a foot in front of him and the puppy cries, barks and squirms but Mukki doesn't let him have it until he is quiet. Watching your video I realized, Whoa! Mukki is teaching Quinn who is dominant, a very good lesson for me to teach Mukki! LOL We were discussing this morning how stubborn Mukki has become -I think this will do the job! Thanks MM The most important factor for me is the dog's concentration, they must be focused on me not the food because it shows they are looking to you for permission to eat. I have also incorporated a recall command when they are staying for their dinner, I will put my beagle in a stay and then call her and she has to sit in front of me, and not go to the food. They learn that because you control the food it is not attainable for them until you say OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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