esky1 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 hi all,my names is adam,a very proud owner of two beautifull husky girls indi and amber,amber i have only had a month and is a retired lead sled dog,im hoping she can teach indi what she is meant to be doing when it comes to pulling my rig... this rig is brand new....i only finished building it last week and thought i would sell it.. it is brand new,finished in painted mild steel,i also do them in stainless semi slick 20" wheels V brakes all dimensions meet race criteria brush bow can be made to be detatchable or left as a rigid frame £475 ono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esky1 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I will also supply these as frame only(including brush bow,fixed or remove able and painted for £250 So you can add wheels,handlebars,forks and brakes ( v brake bosses included if required ) And your choice of foot plate style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazdevil Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hi! Just looking at your blue model above and there's a few things I would advise you to change either for safety's sake, or just good old piece of mind. I would advise you use a pair of BMX bars & stem (do NOT use a Mtb stem with BMX bars), they just don't fit as BMX bars have no bulge for the stem to clamp on to whereas Mtb bars do! The rider's ride height would be greatly improved as well. I have kits to have 2 working V brakes to work off the same b.lever, but you have to get the correct lever to ensure this kit will work! I have one of these fitted to my rig and they are good! To hide the cables, drill into the frame at 2 set points and run a length of outer casing thru said holes. If the casing is too long for a standard wire, use a tandem inner brake wire instead. Always, always fit alloy V brakes and NOT these cheapo plastic coated efforts or the cheap pressed steel thingy's as they are crap to say the least. All the latter bend/flex as do the plastic coated brake levers (even the alloy levers fitted with a plastic handlebar clamp bend like hell!). If you copy the U brake mounts like on the rear of most BMX's, a good set of ally model's will work WKD and are reasonably cheap too! You can also fit a front brake if you feel you need to and as that is your stopping brake, then for the few quid more it'll be worth it. A V brake would be the best here. Looking at the welds on your blue-un (mainly above the brakes), these don't look very good IMO and look very sloppy. Do you gas weld or arc as them welds look very splatty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esky1 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I migged the frame,but cause my pipe sander belt snapped I had to grind the basic shape,so had to fill it a bit,but I usually tig weld the frames for neatness! Thanks for all the advice,it's taken on board,but I have to say although the weld looks splatty as you put it,it's sound,been dye pen tested,and as I spend 6 months a year off shore with 6 high level weld codings I don't think there will be a problem as far as any welding is concerned. But when I get back home I'll have some spare time and money to hide the cables and a few of your other suggestions.. Thanks for the advice,it's much appreciated :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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