My dog has bitten

[Michelle Melsom]

I did have this same problem when i was younger. I was trained out from it by my owner.

Basicly he did get the bowl ready, and did own it with body language before giving me ok to eat it. He put the bowl down, guard it for a moment on 4 feet. Played like the alpha eating from the bowl and blocked my access yo it. I tried to get to the bowl, I sure did, but with blocking access with his body I could not.

Few first times it took me 5-10min to calm down and wait. Then I got ok and bowl far free for me to access.

After 2 weeks owner did add the stakes... Bowl was given to me like before, could not acess at first, i got ok and did eat a bit, and then my owner came back to block me away from bowl in middle of me eating there. Few first times I got pretty agry, but after a while I got used to that owner may or may not block me from my (ours) bowl.

Nowdays im ok with people when im eating or when there is food near me, but every now and then I get blocked anyway to remind me that im not the boss of food or bowl.

With this way of training you need to know bodylanguage of dogs. Training this way with all in the family members should be done too, but only when the "leader" is in the room watching and taking over if needed.

My 2cents

This is only a good idea when the dog is a puppy...like 9-12 weeks old if its older thats probably not a very good idea

[husky princess]

general pack leadership is so important to ensure he knows he's bottom of the pack - not allowed on furniture, eat after the pack, pack goes through doors first etc basic stuff makes a massive difference.

[Elyse]

Have you tried the NILF method? (Nothing in life is free)

[snowpups]

My malamute had food aggression she would growl soon as someone came near her. I now take any food off her without a problem she wasn't allowed the food till she was calm as soon as she got excited or went near the bowl without permission I would take food bowl away. She is crated while eatting I then remove the bowl and leave her in the crate for a while

[StormFi]

This is only a good idea when the dog is a puppy...like 9-12 weeks old if its older thats probably not a very good idea

Puppy or older, things need to be clear. I was 2 years old when I moved to my current pack, and was treaded with the methode posted above. Sure I tried to look nasty with my white theets and so on, but did learn who is the leader and above me in this pack... So works with dogs in any age.

[Michelle Melsom]

Puppy or older, things need to be clear. I was 2 years old when I moved to my current pack, and was treaded with the methode posted above. Sure I tried to look nasty with my white theets and so on, but did learn who is the leader and above me in this pack... So works with dogs in any age.

Im saying if its food aggresive and your decide to control its food by being down on the ground on all 4's your going to get bitten in the face. Im not saying it wouldnt work I'm just saying your risking your face. are you talking from the dogs point on view...?

[Bec]

I agree with you MM, I wouldn't use that method with a food aggressive dog (or any dog IMO).

To the OP, if you can spend the money on an e-collar spend it on a reputable behaviourist instead.

In the meantime I wouldn't allow the dog in the kitchen anymore, I would also teach your children never to approach a sleeping dog.

I would also teach ALL family members to call the dog to them if you want to pat him. Like NILIF, don't give him attention for doing nothing and don't instigate giving him attention by going up to him. If he wants it, make him come to you.

I also like to use this program at food time: http://www.k9pro.com.au/pages.php?pageid=52

[StormFi]

Ofcourse I did try to take ownership of that food bowl, but I didnt get to it before owner did give me ok to do so. Bitten in face? I didnt have the change for that, ever, since i was blocked avay with the whole human body.

[sutsibe]

Ofcourse I did try to take ownership of that food bowl, but I didnt get to it before owner did give me ok to do so. Bitten in face? I didnt have the change for that, ever, since i was blocked avay with the whole human body.

I agree, there's a lot of chance of someone not doing this correctly and being bitten - risky for someone without sufficient experience, especially if they don't read dog body language sufficiently well!

[Smiler]

Hi, I've just gone through the first week with little Max (10months) introduced to my pack (me, wifey and Harley who is 15 months).

Max had food aggression/possessiveness. Gave him a pigs ear, asked him to give it to me, and growling and snarling and defensive aggressive body language! Something to sort out straight away! And if I went near his food bowl it was the same...

So... one week later I'm rummaging around in his food bowl while he is eating, taking bits out, taking it away - no worries! Took less than one week.

Firstly, I've encouraged pack dynamics with him at the bottom. It goes me, then wifey, then Harley, then Max. Dogs should not be treated equal - that leads to competition, same as in a pack. They should however be treated fair...to do this I did things like I enter the house first, then Harley, then Max and all the usual things as above.

At food time I prepare the food and the dogs need to sit at each end of the kitchen. I then take Max's and put it on the worksurface in front of him, put Harley's on the floor, and release Harley. I then put Max's down, make him wait, then release him.

Only I have only about 1/5th of his food in the bowl. When he finished, I made him sit, picked up the bowl, put more in, put it down, and released him. I repeated until he'd had his food. The puts an association with you being the provider, and starts to get the association of you picking up his food being good. I also made sure I mixed the food by hand so that the smell is mixed in. I did this for 2 days.

Next I started to remove it from him when he was eating and then topped it up before putting it back. I did this for 2 days.

I've also been working at other times with food in both hands. I have a tasty treat closed in one hand, make him sit, tell him to wait, and hold a smaller treat in my other hand for him to see. When he waits I open the other hand and give him a bigger treat.

I've also been giving him a smaller treat, getting him to allow me to take it off him by offering a better treat with the other hand, with the 'give' instruction being conditioned at the same time.

I started to take the bowl away from him and then put it back without offering him some more each time. I also got him to wait before taking the treat without offering the higher value treat at all some times. I also took the treat off him some times without giving the higher value treat.

I can now pick things off him and even rummage my hand around in his bowl too without a problem. Interestingly, for a dog that wolfed his food down double time, he's also become more relaxed in his eating....

Interestingly if he was laid out and wouldn't get up he would be grumpy and growl too. We just asserted ourselves mentally to let him know it was our wishes and he just obliges now and does as he is asked. I think that he was used to being top dog in his old home, and just needed to learn where his new pack status was, and he now seems quite comfortable with it.

I kind of knew what I was doing with the above, yet I like to check with a behaviourist, and yep, I was making a couple of small mistakes. For example, at first I was taking the bowl away to the side which encouraged him to chase it away and is almost like teasing. Instead I was told to lift it straight up, also giving the added benefit of an instant sit and you can lift the bowl until the dog gives you the all important eye contact too. This is where an experienced behaviourist comes in - you may know what you are doing, but they check and make sure you are doing what you should be!

Hope this helps,

Smiler

[Staceybob]

No shock collars, it will more than likely make the problem worse. Aggression with aggression generally leads to more aggression.

Consider how you've been working with your dog.

Do you approach them in an intimidating manner trying to assume the "pack leader" role. Whilst it sounds simple and said so often, some people assume that taking the leadership roles means that you need to be firm and stubborn and move with an intimidating manner, when in actual fact the role of a pack leader is to be calm and direct your pack.

I would take Bec 's advice for the time being and I think you could benefit from developing your own training routine that allows for capturing calmness. Try reading a book called "Click to calm" and watching this video on capturing calmness:

wesm2OpE_2c

I hope this helps.

Stacey xxx

[Shadowpup]

Shiloh has food agression with high value treats, it's not just toward the other dogs either. He's not allowed food outside of his crate. Freya and Shiloh are crated when it's food time because they are both funny with the other dogs. They arn't allowed out of the crate until my daughter has finished her food. Aya is crated after her food and not allowed out when there is food because she steels it (doesn't have food agression). Yuri is fine but we had him from a small puppy. He will only steel food if you have your back turned. I'd crate him personally. When you start cooking put him in his crate and he's not allowed out untill everyone has finished their food. I'd feed him after you as well in his crate. We manage the food agression really well here and I've never had any problems with the dogs and my daughter since.

[HazCad]

Well after the initial incident everyone has calmed down, my husband hasn't mentioned getting rid of him again so far so im guessing it was in the heat of the moment. My husband isn't a patient person and sometimes expects things to happen almost straight away where i understand it will take time for him to change.

I am keeping with the feeding by hand as started a few days ago which is going well.

He is banned from the kitchen full stop now not just when i'm preparing food.

He's still in his crate at meal times and has never been allowed on furniture which still stands (he has never even tried to get on the sofa) he is banned from upstairs as he has always been an to help stop him sneeking up when im not watching all doors up stairs have been closed.

I am working on the alpha system which obviously will take time but so far so good.

I have instructed my girls not to approach him when he'l lying down resting/sleeping and to not approach him when he's eating even if it is one of their socks.

I shall probably post at a later date to express how things are going for those of you who wish to know the outcome.

Many thanks for all your advice and suggestions, a lot of you have reinforced my thoughts an ideas.

p.s. can anyone explain what the "Nothing in life is free" is.

[Storm Angel n Auroras Mum]

Angel had a bit of food aggression but now doesnt. she does however steal food every given chance, she has actually walked past my daughter who had a had a sandwich on her plate on her lap and knicked a square of sandwich!! She also nicks Storms treats too!! Bless him Storm just looks at me saying "mummy she ate my nom":( So he gets another one.

Now she is crated when she eats and when my daughter is eating.

[Staceybob]

p.s. can anyone explain what the "Nothing in life is free" is.

Nothing in life is free, is simply what it says.

Do you wake up in the morning and get a magical plate of food and affection for no reason or do you go out, work and make a living to earn that food, affection and your home. If we did nothing, we'd be on the streets begging. We give too much to our dogs for free.

It's not about being harsh, but it's about teaching them manners. Expect to have to do something to earn something. Give them a job to do before they get their food, before they get affection, before they get their walk.

Stacey xxx

[Tams Teeko and Keeta]

Can't possibly add a thing....but did want to say good luck! Hope all goes well!

[HazCad]

Update, For those of you when know the story so far.

Well I have a friend come round to see Keifer, and as discussed I was to work on 1 problem at a time, 1st being the food aggression.

for the last well since I started this post over 3 weeks i think I have been feeding him by hand, he has been banned from the kitchen, made to earn any food and treats by way of sitting, paw etc, things were going fine until last night...

As usual he went out for a wee before bed, I let himback in, gave him a fuss and cuddles then he went to his crate ready for bed.

I went and got a treat as he gets every evening just as i've locking him up for bed in his crate, I stupidly went to stroke him whlist he was standing in his crate and the treat was in my other hand and he went for me, bit my right hand and I have a nice hole and bruising.

I have discussed things with my husband and we have decided unless we can have a miracle or have someone get this aggression out of him away from my children the we are going to have to re home him, It breaks my hear as I love him so much and he is a lovely dog when food isn't involved.

We can't afford a professional, we have no savings no spare money and struggle to get by each month so thats out of the equation.

I don't want to have to say good bye to him but I don't see any other choice.

Advice anyone?

[siberian_wolf]

Update, For those of you when know the story so far.

Well I have a friend come round to see Keifer, and as discussed I was to work on 1 problem at a time, 1st being the food aggression.

for the last well since I started this post over 3 weeks i think I have been feeding him by hand, he has been banned from the kitchen, made to earn any food and treats by way of sitting, paw etc, things were going fine until last night...

As usual he went out for a wee before bed, I let himback in, gave him a fuss and cuddles then he went to his crate ready for bed.

I went and got a treat as he gets every evening just as i've locking him up for bed in his crate, I stupidly went to stroke him whlist he was standing in his crate and the treat was in my other hand and he went for me, bit my right hand and I have a nice hole and bruising.

I have discussed things with my husband and we have decided unless we can have a miracle or have someone get this aggression out of him away from my children the we are going to have to re home him, It breaks my hear as I love him so much and he is a lovely dog when food isn't involved.

We can't afford a professional, we have no savings no spare money and struggle to get by each month so thats out of the equation.

I don't want to have to say good bye to him but I don't see any other choice.

Advice anyone?

First off I hate to say it but I can't see him being able to find a new home with aggression problems

What sort of body language does he display? What sort of warning do you get before he goes to bite?

EDIT: Also it is unlikely that he will completely stop his aggression. He is likely to always have an issue but there are ways of making him feel more comfortable to a point where he doesnt aggress so much but one step out of line and he can easily go back to his "old habit"

[HazCad]

Wello when I got bit last night I never got a warning, He just went for me, he was eager to get his treat (eyes were looking at the hand it was in) he hasn't been in the position to guard food since i started the feeding by hand so can't say for any other time.

he's fine with treats outside his crate, mybe cos he knows the routine and i changed it by trying to stroke him i dont know.

I know I don't have much hope in finding him a home with someone experienced enough to deal with it but I dont see what else I can do.

I found a guy in wales who says he can turn him around in 2 days (4hrs total) for £50 an hour. www.alaskanmalamuteuk.co.uk

he seems experienced enough but I don't have that sort of money, I'm not sure my husbands willing to raise that kind of money to sort it as he see's we've already spend a lot on him getting him neutered to help with the p[roblems.

I'm stuck in a corner and don't know what to do.

[siberian_wolf]

Wello when I got bit last night I never got a warning, He just went for me, he was eager to get his treat (eyes were looking at the hand it was in) he hasn't been in the position to guard food since i started the feeding by hand so can't say for any other time.

he's fine with treats outside his crate, mybe cos he knows the routine and i changed it by trying to stroke him i dont know.

I know I don't have much hope in finding him a home with someone experienced enough to deal with it but I dont see what else I can do.

I found a guy in wales who says he can turn him around in 2 days (4hrs total) for £50 an hour. www.alaskanmalamuteuk.co.uk

he seems experienced enough but I don't have that sort of money, I'm not sure my husbands willing to raise that kind of money to sort it as he see's we've already spend a lot on him getting him neutered to help with the p[roblems.

I'm stuck in a corner and don't know what to do.

There must have been some sign, ive not heard of dog who doesn't give a signal of any kind before finally biting.

My boy Gizmo is human aggressive and he hasn't ever bitten but he has always given signs to people that he will bite if provocked.

Gizmo will tense his body up and growl at people whenthey go to fuss him, if they don't leave him then he will go to bite them (luckily he hasn't made contact!!!!)

I have been using positive reinforcement with Gizmo to help him feel more comfortable around people and he is at a stage when he is happy around people as long as they dont go to fuss him.

I would love to help you as if it come to it, I fear you would have to go down the route of him being PTS should he not find a home which is likely!

[HazCad]

I'm not sure on signs, he was stood in his crate, eyes set on his treat, i put my hand in to stroke him and he went, no growl of warning nothing.

He's bitten before but not drawn blood. I'd hate to see him pts, if I had the money I could get this problem sorted but pet insurance doesn't cover things like this and I have no one to borrow from. Bad credit means I can't get a loan either. :-(

[Storm Angel n Auroras Mum]

can I be honest?

someone else here had issues not totally different from this.

They returned the dog to battersea as thats where he came from., he got pts.

If he goes to a rescue im afraid he may not make it out.

Thats not to say you should have to put up with it though.

[HazCad]

I don't want him to go to a rescue, he would go mad in a kennel!

I don't obviously want him pts as he's not a bad dog he just has food aggression preoblems I can't afford to get sorted.

I'd want him to go to someone who know's the breed an can deal with the issue, I don't want him to go anywhere really but with no money to sort the problem i don't see much else i can do other than find a foster home/home by avoiding rehoming centres.

[siberian_wolf]

I understand what you have already said but the only option you really have is to get a trainer/behaviour expert help. They will be able to come and see the situation for themselves and will know the best method for you and your family.

If I could, I would offer to take him on and help with the problems your having but I have far too much going on right now but would still like to help you.

I know of two methods which could help you but without knowing the full details of his body language, etc I wouldn't want to advise

[Elyse]

If you could take a video of his behaviour, we might be able to help you out. Maybe there's a very subtle sign that you can't see, but maybe one of us can.