Old Remedies/Tips

[valkyries]

Do you have any old remedies/tips if so addthem here

1) Bran,fuller's earth, french chalk and talcum powder = All these will absorb grit and dirt from fur, in the same way that shampoo cleans hair. Shake on to the area leave for a while to obsorb, brush out gently but thoroughly.

2) Salt = This will absorb urine, pour a generous amount on to carpet, leave for a few hoursto soak up the liquid. Then vacuum.

3) Many dogs have cracked and dry paws. An effective low cost treatment is to apply petroleum jelly or Vaseline to its paws. Apply daily for two to five days and the cracked and dry paws will smoothen out. As the cracked paws heel, the dogs behavior will see an

improvement also.

4) add a few drops of vinegar to your dogs’ bath water. This will keep his coat smelling sweet. No more bad smells or unhygienic odour. This is an easy and effective home remedy for a common problem.

5) to keep the dog clean and hygienic during winters. The dog avoids taking a bath and consequently gets dirty and can be a source of infection for the family. In this case, try using soda bicarbonate on its fur as a dry shampoo. Rub vigorously and the dog will come out clean.

6) To deter a puppy from chewing furniture legs, wipe the legs with a little clove oil. The puppy will stop chewing them. The furniture will stay safe and sound while the puppy learns to use something else.

7) A common problem in households having pets is the falling hair that keeps sticking and adhering to various articles. To pick up thepets hair, from a blanket or furnishing fabric, wet a sponge and run it over the article. The hair will stick to the damp sponge and the article will look as good as new

8) Is Your Dog Regularly Getting the Runs? Add bio yoghurt to their feed. Quite often this can be a bacterial imbalance. Especially if it is happening on a regular basis. The bio yoghurt is a probiotic and sometimes sort this type of problem out fairly quickly. However if the situation continues to occur see your Vet.

9) Is Your Dog’s Urine Burning the Lawn? Yellow spots on the lawn are normally caused by urine, Nitrogen waste products are the result of protein breakdown through normal bodily processes., therefore the nitrogen in the urine causes the lawn spots. We all know that Nitrogen is a great fertliser but not in these doses that is why the outside of the brown spot is quite lush. A dose of one teaspoon to one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (depending on the size of the dog) per day will nullify the Nitrogen imbalance and should solve the problem. The apple cider vinegar can be added to the dog's water or put directly on his food. The natural type from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the supermarket. I find the apple cider vinegar from horse tack shops are the best. Two tablespoons of tomato juice on the dog's food twice a day will have the same effect.

10) Insect Stings to Dogs or Cats: Slice a raw onion and apply to the sting as soon as possible, If the sting is inside the mouth always keep "Antihistamine" capsules in your first aid kit. A rapid administration soon after the sting can prevent serious complications. You can also get Antihistamine in liquid form which makes it easier to dispense. To administer liquids pull out the jowl near the back teeth it makes a sort of little cup, then just pour the measured liquid in, close mouth, tip head back and massage throat.

Some dogs will actually swallow the insect live, which may continue stinging the dog internally and cause anaphylactic shock. In rare cases, death can result. This is caused from internal swelling of the trachea which cuts off the oxygen supply to the lungs. Quick administration of “Antihistamine" can reduce and even prevent serious complications. SPECIAL NOTE - Dosage will vary depending on the size of the animal. Check with your vet for recommended dosage. Usually they will refer to the animal's weight as a guideline.

[valkyries]

11) Sharp Object and Glass eating: What do you do if your dog eats glass or other sharp objects like staples or small nails etc? Dogs even eat ornaments, Xmas decorations, light bulbs and lots of other things that are sharp and therefore dangerous. Here's what to do. Go to the chemist and buy some cotton balls, make sure it is cotton balls and not the cosmetic puff things they are made of man made fibres. Buy a carton of double cream and keep it in the freezer if in the eventuality of your dog eating something sharp. Defrost the cream and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog. Dogs less than 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces. Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7. You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once. Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily.As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass and small sharp objects and wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibres and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage.Your dog's stools will be a bit strange for a few days. You must be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool. If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a check-up, but in most cases, the dogs should be fine.

12) Bonding: If you want to quickly bond with a new pup or rescue dog. Masticate a piece of white bread till it is a gooey then feed this as a tit bit to the pup/dog for the first 7 days. You only need to do this once a day; it mimics the regurgitation process when pups and cubs are being weaned in the wild, this really helps them bond more quickly and therefore settle in much sooner.

13) Constipation: If your dog doesn't move his bowels for a day or two, or if he seems to have difficulty doing so, he may be constipated. Give him a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia first thing in the morning, before his breakfast if you feed him twice a day. If he is often constipated, add more vegetables to his diet and also mix a teaspoonful of mineral oil in his dinner. He won't taste it with the food. Do this until he is regular again. Also be sure that he gets plenty of exercise. Lack of running, walking, and jumping can make a dog constipated. If this treatment does not work within 48 hours consult your Vet.

14) Car Sickness: Often Ginger helps with this problem either Ginger Biscuits or even better natural ginger fed before the journey. The biscuits can be fed as the dog gets in the car, which has an added incentive of the dog feeling that it being praised for just getting in the vehicle.

15) Grooming: Once a week put a really good shake of Olive Oil "the one you use for salads" into the dogs food, it gives the coat a brilliant shiny healthy look. In conjunction with the oil use a rubber horse curry comb/ brush; you can purchase it cheaply from any tack shop, strips all the dead hair off and shines up the coat better than any other brush on the market. They also do a plastic one that gets all the seeds and bits of debris out. I use both to great affect.

[KERNOWHUSKIES]

Erattic behaviour when u stop at pubs/parks wont sit, whines...................... Reascue Remedy (herbal) 1 spray on the tongue or few drops and ur dog will relax .

NB might not work for all dogs

[valkyries]

16) Grooming 2: Irrespective of the dogs coat long or short groom daily. Even if it's only for a couple of minutes and make sure you groom over the withers. This helps in bonding and social status. In the wild the Alpha Male and Female will call over the other wolves or wild dogs individually and groom them in their pecking order. Grooming is an important social gesture. That is why some dominant dogs object to being groomed, they don't believe you have right or the position to initiate this action.

17) Tears Stains and Bacterial Infections: Wet areas on the face are a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. Bacterial infections commonly occur in the tear ducts. “Ptirsporumâ€Â, red yeast bacteria, is at the root of most yeast infections. Tear stains also often occur at the same time as a gum infection or ear infection. Staining can also occur on a dog's paws from licking and around his mouth from infected saliva. Apple cider vinegar (in its natural form from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the Supermarket) is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, and deodorant; It helps digestion and to remove tooth tartar; prevents tooth decay and hair loss (even mange), it also prevents and heals gum disease and skin problems; and will discourage fleas. Putting a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per quart of water in your dog's water bowl or on food can clear up most active yeast infections and prevent future infections. Apple cider vinegar tablets can be used if your dog refuses to drink the treated water or eat the food.

18) Halitosis/Dog Breath: Halitosis, or unpleasant breath, can be caused by a stomach problem, bad teeth or tonsils, or something that is stuck in the dog's mouth or throat. Look your dog’s teeth to see if any are decayed. If not, then give him 3/4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in his food twice a day for a few days. If his breath is still offensive, then take him to a vet to see if he needs his teeth cleaned or his tonsils treated

19) Cuts. : If your dog cuts himself slightly, put some boric acid solution or some peroxide on the cut and then leave it alone. It will heal up quickly. If the cut is deep, or if it doesn't stop bleeding, pack gauze or clean rags around it and take him to a vet. If the cut is on his leg or foot and bleeds a lot, tie a piece of cloth tightly around his leg, between the cut and his body, release the pressure every ten minutes, and take him to a vet at once.

20) Electric Shocks: Once in a while, a silly puppy will chew through an electric cord leading to a lamp or a radio or a toaster. The shock he gets is normally not serious (though in certain circumstances has proved fatal); however it can sometimes be strong enough to knock him out. If this happens, put a little household ammonia on a wad of cotton and hold this under his nose. Don't touch the nose with it, as the ammonia will burn his skin. The sharp odour will bring him round. When he does comes to, give him some cool, strong, black coffee to drink. If his mouth seems burned by the shock, wet a cloth in strong, cool tea and wash the burned place with this. Take him to the vet if he seems burned or injured in any way.

21) What if your dog swallows a dangerous object: It's a rare puppy that doesn't swallow at least one strange object which his stomach cannot possibly digest. But a dog's stomach is so constructed that it can usually take care of most of the odd things that find their way into it.

If you should see your dog swallow something you know is bad for him . . . a piece of rubber toy, a ball, a large splinter of bone or a metallic object . . . here's what to do. Give him a large piece of soft bread to eat. Then toss about two teaspoonfuls of salt on the back of his tongue, close his mouth with your hand and keep it closed until he swallows the salt. Now put him on a newspaper or some other place where he can vomit without doing any damage.

In a short time the salt will cause him to throw up the bread and the hopefully the strange object. If this doesn't come up the first time give him another dose of salt after about 5 minutes. Once the object is vomited, He should be fine. However if he begins to have diarrhea, or if his stomach swells up and appears tender when you touch it, give him a tablespoonful of mineral oil. If he still seems to be in pain, or if there is any blood in his urine or bowel movement, take him straight to a vet. Never induce vomiting if the dog has ingested bleach or anything acidic or really sharp. Washing soda crystals are even more effective than salt if you have them available in the house.

21) Eyes : If you want to clean out the "sleep bugs," you can dip a wad of cotton into a mixture of warm water and boric-acid solution 50/50. Squeeze a few drops of this in each eye. You can also use plain warm milk for this purpose. If your pet has got some mild conjunctivitis try warm used tea bags, if the infection is more than mild then purchase some Golden Eye from the chemist (cream not drops) and treat for three days this clears up most infections, however if he still has problems a visit to the Vet is in order. In case of a real injury to the eyes from a dogfight or something poked into them, put a pad of gauze soaked in boric-acid solution 50/50 ie warm water and boric acid over the eye that's hurt. Then wrap a towel loosely around the dog's head and take him at once to a vet.

22) Commands: Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional. One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a "bluff '. For instance, telling your dog to "Sit, sit, sit, sit!", is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single "Sit" command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.

23) The Dogs Name: Whenever possible, use your dog's name positively, rather than using it in conjunction with a reprimand, warning or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be positive and responded to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear. Imagine if you were a dog and 50% of the time when your name was spoken, you were yelled at or chastised. It would not take long to work out not to look up if their is a strong chance you are going to be shouted at, you can picture the dog thinking “Look at my paw because my face ain’t listening†I use "Bad" or "You" If I have to chastise or stop the dog from certain behaviour's both have a good growly tone rather than using the dogs name.

To teach your dog his name. Position your dog in the middle of two people, close enough to touch,. Get some treats, high value ones like cheese or liver. Say the dogs name cheerfully if he doesn't’t respond either touch his ear or his muzzle very gently.

When the dog finally looks in your direction immediately use your Good Dog voice, and praise by using the word “goodâ€Â“take it†then immediately give a high quality treat. You could also use a clicker and click treat. Practice this until looking at you happens without the touch or treat, this takes about five days doing the exercise for a few minutes each day, continue to practice once a week for the dog's entire life! It reinforces the communication link between owner and pet.

24) Puppy Teething: Most of the teething and chewing as apart from mouthing and nipping starts at about 4.5 months old. This is the time that the little piranha teeth laughingly called puppy teeth start dropping out, as the new adult teeth start pushing through. It takes anything up to 8 months for these new teeth to set in the jaw, whilst this is happening the pup has a need to chew. To help soothe this and save your fixtures, fittings and furniture. Get the pup a plastic flower pot. Not the thin brittle ones but a fairly thick substantial one, this will help his gums and sooth the itching. Another great help is get a knotted rope you buy as a tug soak it in water and put it in the freezer. The ice that forms really helps hot and itchy gums. Also freeze carrots and whilst frozen give to teething pups a great and nutritious soother.

25) Games of Tug: I don’t like games of tug at any time, except with a particularly timid or frightened dog then I will play and let the dog win to build up some confidence. However I never ever play tug with a puppy whilst it has its puppy/piranha teeth. It actually has little or no jaw muscles at this time therefore you can dislocate the jaw or even misalign the teeth by playing roughhouse tug games. You may also be setting the scene for aggressive confrontations later in the puppy’s growth cycle. I would be better playing games of find, hide little bits of treats in the house and garden and encourage the dog to search them out, or ball games these all help dispel some of the pup’s energies and to stimulate the mind.

[Sid_Wolf]

a garlic tablet a day keeps fleas away!!

oily fish and olive oil keep the coat soft and shiny

If you cant see the dogs quik (sp?) hold a torch under it

Carrots and raw meaty bones help to scrape plaque off teeth and in most cases eliminate the need for teeth cleaning

Added to rep linda

[valkyries]

26) Fussy Eating: I am told by countless owners that their dog will not eat dry food/ or many other types of food and that the will only eat smoked salmon/steak/or best mince etc. This is because we actually teach our dogs to be fussy and picky eaters by free feeding. That is leaving down food all day. The dog then comes to the realisation that it can eat at any time and does not fall into a routine. Free feeding can also have an effect on control complex behaviour also know as “dominant behaviour†though that term is vastly overused, free feeding can give the message to a socially mobile dog that he could be a pack leader as he has access to food at any time this can also encourage guarding behaviour. Time to re-educate, decide on how many times you will feed per day if he is over 1 year then this will be either once or twice.Feed the food of your choice not the food of his choice I am a firm believer in a quality food whether that be raw cooked or dry. Put this down for ten minutes only, if the dog has eaten it in that time fine, if not pick the food up and put it away. When the next meal is due then only put out amount of food you would normally feed do not double up.

It may take a few days for the message to get home, but it will in the end. Remember the dog comes from an animal (The Wolf) which is a feast and famine eater; they sometimes go many days or even longer between kills or scavenged food, so your dog will not starve, instinct and survival will take over and the dog will resume eating the food you choose not the food he chooses. Many people think that it must be boring feeding them the same thing every day. But do not realise that supplementing a quality food with cheap low quality tinned or pouch food is like putting tomato sauce on Lobster Thermidor. .We also assume that taste is a factor. It isn't’, dogs have only 10% of our taste capacity, lets face it if they can eat their own and other animals faeces which many do, then their choice of taste and quality must be in question.

27) Recall Problems: How often do you see dogs coming back to about three foot from their owners then skipping away again, as if it’s a game, the owners probably in a hurry get angrier and angrier and start shouting, which of course exacerbates the situation? Giving the dog even more reason not to return, as he is aware that he may get smacked. All this is caused because the owner did not correctly lead train and stimulate the dog in the park in the first place. He/She actually taught the dog not to come back, by only putting the dog back on the lead at the end of the walk. It doesn't’ take long for the dog to click on that recall and lead means end of fun and end of walk.

May I suggest the owners were probably on their mobile phone at the same time? Go to any park and see the dozens of people on mobiles walking their dogs, the poor dogs have to stimulate themselves somehow, and start running off to other dogs and people for the attention that they crave. Give your dog’s quality time and quality training. During the walk call your dog back to you at least three or four times. Place it on a lead and reward with a brief game or a real tasty tidbit, and then let it off again. Your dog will then learn that coming back to you is good news and being placed on the lead does not mean the end of the walk and end of play! Play hide and seek behind trees etc, it doesn't’ think your hiding it thinks you are getting lost, this is especially important with a young pup , Switch off the mobile and play games, stimulate your dog and he will have no need to wander off and not want to return.

28) Kennel Cough : On top of the Antibiotics from the Vet, try Baby Benylin Dry Cough mixture twice a day will help to relieve the irritation. Also avoid any pressure from a collar, as this will exacerbate the condition. If you must go anywhere with your dog on a lead, use a body harness. Avoid areas where there are other dogs and if visiting your vet, make the last appointment. Leave your dog in the car and go and tell the vet staff you are outside waiting to go in, or ask to be placed in an isolation room. This will help to reduce the spread of this highly contagious disease.

30) Timidity and Fears: How many times have you seen a dog shaking or cowering and the owner sympathising and reassuring it with petting and nurturing? This may appear to be perfectly logical behaviour, but is actually giving the dog all the wrong signals and rewarding it for being timid and nervous and confirming it has a reason to be fearful.

The very thing you are trying to cure is reinforced by your actions. The shy and timid dog should be exposed to as many different situations as possible. Take it along with you to the shops, the bar or the pub, and everywhere you can introduce it to new sights sounds and smells. Don’t push it into fearful situations but gently desensitise it to the things it fears praise for calmness never for fear, Consistent treatment in this manner will begin to deliver the message to the dog that there is nothing to fear. Do NOT cuddle the dog, or hug it and tell it there is nothing to fear. Dogs do not understand most of the words we say -- they understand our actions. If the dog gets a hug, it assumes it has done the correct thing and will continue to be fearful. because you have reinforced the fear.

31) Tag and Identification: It may surprise everyone to know that the maximum fine for not displaying a dog identification tag in the UK is £5000. (Where did they get that figure from?) Irrespective of whether your pet is already micro chipped. The law which is the Control of Dog Order 1992 states that “Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached theretoâ€Â. I would also recommend you put your mobile number on the disc in case you are away on holiday with the dog; the home number would be useless if your dog then goes missing.

32) Shy Timid or Frightened Dogs: I am a firm believer that Socialisation is so vitally important; it almost outweighs any other consideration including the risk of contracting disease. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.

By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid

dog that may become aggressive as an adult. “95% of all reported dog bites are fear relatedâ€Â. Owners should strike a commonsense balance: puppies, especially from birth through to 14 weeks must be exposed to a variety of people and experiences. There are many activities and places to take dogs; without endangering their lives, it is vital that you take the time

to expose your new pup to as many of these as possible.This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop his own self-confidence without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

33) The Lead: Your lead is the most vital piece of training equipment you can own, it has multiple uses, it is also an aerial to your dog. Tighten it at the wrong time and you can send messages that could spark aggression, fear, or anxiety, use it to drag your dog around and it could damage his neck and spine, especially if it connected to a choke chain which I abhor. Used correctly it can be a godsend almost the only training aid you will ever need. All training including sit, stay, down, recall, sit stay, wait etc should initially be trained on a lead. Unfortunately most of the leads I see are far too short to be effective and are of a material that hurts and can burn and damage your hands. The lead should be at least 5 foot long irrespective of the size of the dog, this will help all training and lead work in the future, it should be made of something like Cushion Web which is extremely strong yet soft, (sounds a bit like a advert for toilet paper) NOT Nylon which is harsh as can burn and damage your hands.

The problem is that most lead manufacturers haven’t a clue about dogs and what constitutes a good lead, they just produce what makes the most profit. Good quality leather leads are OK though I find them a bit hard on the hands at first. Shop around till you find what you want, don’t be fobbed off with what the industry or pet shop wants you to buy. I have my own Cushion Web leads made for me, therefore all my clients normally have one of these, Worth shopping around until you get exactly what you want or contact ,me for my personally designed leads.

34) Counter Surfing: This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen work tops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem if you feel the counter surfing could be dangerous to your dogs, is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.

35) Dogs Ages in Human Terms: If I were to stop 100 people in the street and ask them how do you calculate a dogs age in human terms, 90% would say one dog year to every seven human years the others 9% would probably say they don’t know and 1% may know the correct calculation. This is one of many old wives tales that are generally totally and utterly wrong. As a general rule of thumb it should be fifteen for the 1 st year ten for the 2nd and then five for every year thereafter. This is only an approximation there is a chart that works on size and breed that gives it more accurately than this. If you calculated every seven years and the dog is 16 years old then the dog in human terms would be 112 using my method the dog is a realistic 95. I also think we are all aware that a one year old dog does not act like a seven year old child. It is far more like the rebellious teenager round the back of the bike shed having a quick fag. They are also far more aware of the opposite sex than most seven year olds would ever be.

36) Fleas: If you want a natural method of flea control give the dog a clove of garlic take the skin off first as this is related to the onion family and the skin part can have an adverse effect you can chop this up and put it in his food each day. You can also purchase granulated garlic from a horse tack shop at a very reasonable price. Fleas really dislike the taste which exudes out of the dog's skin and should soon go looking elsewhere for a more tasty meal.

[valkyries]

37) Dry and Crusty Nose or Skin:. Adding a teaspoon of flax seed oil to the dog’s food daily often helps. Dry noses and other dry skin complaints. Some dogs respond well to a children's multivitamin supplement (especially if they include vitamin B complex). However if the problems persists see your Vet.

38) The Alpha Myth: Please do not follow the ludicrous assumption that we can be the Alpha in the dog pack. This is biologically impossible. Dogs are what is known as conspecific, that means they can only truly pack up with their own kind. Unlike birds, dogs do not bond and lock onto the first thing they see when they are born. Dogs know when they meet another dog. When they meet humans they see us as a different species but intrinsically locked into their life as a resource of high value. What is vital is that rather than pretending we are the Alpha we should train our dogs that we are controllers of resources and as such we will gain their respect in that position.

39) Neutering (Spaying and Castration: Before you consider early "Neutering" (the generic term for Spaying and Castration) ask yourself would you do this to an immature child? The detrimental effects are well known in humans but not so well known in our pets. When we neuter we remove/reduce three very important hormones Oestrogen, Progesterone, and Testosterone. All dogs male and female have these hormones. by what degree each hormone is present determines the sex of the animal.

Without these hormones dogs (if immature when the operation is carried out) may not behaviourally and physically reach full maturity. Both physiological and psychological problems may occur because of these early invasive operations. more behavioural problems occure with early neutered dogs than any other single factor.

40) Puppy Crying at Night: It's entirely natural for a new puppy to call out for someone to come when separated. Pups alone in the wild would not survive without this alarm system. Therefore all your new dog is doing is following instinct.

Either in the nesting box or in the wild, a puppy learns very quickly that when separated from the pack, calls for help will allow other members of the pack to quickly locate him.

If the puppy is very distressed and clearly upset, allowing it to sleep in your bedroom, but within an indoor kennel/crate. Then over a period of time move the crate in stages to the spot where you want the puppy to stay for instance the kitchen.

Shutting the crate door on a very young puppy could be a total disaster. It can cause crate aversion and toileting problems, it will definitely cause anxiety. Therefore until the pup is at least twelve to thirteen weeks old I would not shut the crate door overnight.

Then over a period of time move the crate in stages to the spot where you want the puppy to stay, for instance the kitchen. You will normally know if the puppy seriously distressed if it starts throwing itself at the bars trying desperately to escape, defecating or urinating in the crate is also a sign of distress.

41) Puppy Nipping and Biting: Puppies have painfully sharp little piranha like teeth, almost like hypodermic needles, fortunately the jaw muscles are extremely under-developed, One of the main reasons why you should never play tug with a young puppy is you could dislocate the jaw and misalign or damage the teeth.

Nature has given them these underdeveloped muscles to enable pups to play-bite safely. Whilst very young and still with his brothers and sisters and he bites too hard in play he gets blasted with a ear piercing "yelp" which makes him immediately back off, he waits a while then starts to play again, but a strange thing has happened, the biting is a bit softer. The same thing when feeding from the mother, the pup uses too much pressure she yelps and moves away end of milk bar. He is then gentler the next time round and a valuable lesson has been learned.

This is nature’s way of inhibiting the force of their bite well before the jaw muscles start to form properly at around about 4.5 months, which also coincides with the time that the puppy teeth start dropping out and the new bigger more dangerous teeth start to come through. This is called the age of cutting.

This learning process is known as “Bite Inhibition†it is a vital and important lesson and is the only reason why your puppies are born with those hideous teeth. This is how your puppy learns to inhibit the force of his bite and to control his jaws, It is a vital that he also learns to inhibit biting us humans.

42) Crate Training: Dogs have a natural liking for enclosed sleeping places - think of how often your dog chooses to sleep under the table, against a wall or behind the settee! In the wild your dog would seek out a cosy safe den to sleep and rest up, that is all a crate is.

• The crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn round and stretch out when lying down. If he is a puppy, allow for growth. Cover the crate with a blanket or sheet so it is dark, den like and cosy.
  
  
  
  If the crate is quite big, section off part of it whilst the puppy is young this will prevent him urinating or defecating in the corners. Never put newspaper in the crate this only stimulates the dog to eliminate in there, which defeats the object of using a crate for toilet training.
  
  

• To begin with you will need to leave the crate set up all the time. Later you may prefer not to, and some crates fold flat for easy storage when not in use.
  
  
  
  When left in the crate your dog should have a toy or chew bone to keep him occupied when awake, soft bedding to sleep on, I prefer Vet Bed or the equivalent and a drink of water. Get a coop cup it clips or screws on the inside of the crate then you don’t get spills.
  
  
  
  Initially feed the dog in the crate every day, with the door open. This is an easy way to get him to like it. You should not be closing the door overnight until about 11/12 weeks of age as the dog may become very distressed as it is unable to control bowel or bladder movements until this age.
  
  

• To keep the puppy safe whilst you are acclimatising it to the crate. Purchase a Playpen these are available in most pet stores.
  
  

• Set the crate up in a quiet corner, and put the dog's bed into it. At this stage, leave the door pinned open so that the dog is never fastened in by mistake and never gets stressed.
  
  
  
  Soon the dog should happily use the crate voluntarily. When you reach this stage, (NOT BEFORE) wait until he goes in for a sleep, then close the door. Stay in the room, and let him out as he starts to wake up.
  
  
  
  When your dog is used to this routine, leave him for a minute after he wakes up, with you still in the room. Gradually (over about a week) increase the time you can do this. If your dog gets distressed shorten the time on the next attempt. Don't make a big fuss - sweet nothings and lots of attention can make him think you're praising him for being distressed, and he'll do it all the more. Aim for the "nursing sister" approach when she comes to give you a big injection, sympathetic but business like! See my article on Separation Anxiety
  
  
  
  When you can leave the dog like this, leave the room for a few minutes but stay in the house. Again, gradually increase the time you are out of sight till you can put the dog into his crate when you go shopping.
  
  
  
  

Your dog should never be left in a crate for more than a couple of hours except

overnight, and then do not lock you Puppy in until it is about 11/12 ek of

age.

Permit the puppy to play-bite by allowing your pup to softly chew on your hand. When he bites down a little harder than normal, "yelp" sharply and loudly, turning your head away in rejection. Do not pull your hand away. Let the puppy move away from the sound and your hand, (pulling your hand away will only encourage him to lunge towards the moving object)

As an appeasement after your yelp the pup may come up and lick your hand, accept this gesture. Then allow the play to resume, but this time hopefully with a softer bite. If the play gets a little rougher, "yelp" again, thus further confirming that any pressure is totally unacceptable. Repeat this exercise as often as possible. And like the New York police chief who had a zero tolerance to crime you do the same with any hard biting. The yelp should be short sharp and loud.

43) Toilet Training Puppies: You will need to crate train the dog for this to work quickly and succesfully. See above. If you feed and water your dog on a schedule, your dog will eliminate on a schedule. FREE FEEDING YOUR DOG WILL MAKE THE JOB OF HOUSE TRAINING MUCH MORE DIFFICULT.

First, establish meal periods. three to four meal periods for very young puppies and a single or a double meal period for adult dogs. The meal period should last for 10 minutes. During that time give the required amount of food and as much water as the dog wants. At the end of the meal period, remove the food whether or not the dog has eaten, unless instructed otherwise by your veterinarian. If the dog plays and does not eat, he will soon learn that the food will be taken away. This also helps to discourage picky eating habits.

Place Your Dog on Commands:

Many dog owners inadvertently teach their dogs to eliminate indoors. Each time they take their dog outside they wait for him to eliminate. As soon as he does, they bring him in. Most dogs, especially young ones, like the sights and smells of the outdoors. So they quickly learn that as soon as they eliminate, they are taken inside. They learn to hold it until they come inside to prolong the experience.

It makes better sense to train your dog to eliminate on command, especially if you must lead walk him. Take your dog to "his spot" each time. As your dog begins to urinate, choose a word and say it over and over as the Behaviour is occurring (I say "wee") do this each time your dog urinates. After several weeks of hearing "wee" as he urinates, it will eventually act as a trigger for the Behaviour. I use a different phrase for defecating. Each time your dog finishes, praise him while offering a food reinforcement (a treat). I use cheese puffed jerky or frankfurters. When he has finished, take him for a walk as a reward! If your dog fails to eliminate in 5 minutes, (posh word for pee and poop) take him inside crate him for a half-hour and then try again.

The Instructive Reprimand each time you take your dog outside say, "Outside". Soon he will learn what outside means Then, if the dog inappropriately urinates inside in your presence, say "Outside" and take him to "his spot". "Outside" becomes an instructive command because it directs the dog to the appropriate elimination place and it is a reprimand because of the tone of voice you use as the Behaviour is occurring, thus acting as a negative reinforcement.

[BingBlaze n Skyla]

If your pet has got some mild conjunctivitis try warm used tea bags, if the infection is more than mild then purchase some Golden Eye from the chemist (cream not drops) and treat for three days this clears up most infections,

oh if only i knew that ages ago when bings got conjuctivitis

34) Counter Surfing: This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen work tops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem if you feel the counter surfing could be dangerous to your dogs, is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.

if only i didnt have a dog that was scared ov loud noised and bangsi cud do this for skyla lol

[Rosemary]

This is a great thread - I have been adding Flax Seed Oil and Apple Cider Vinegar to Ozzy & Micah' s food twice a day. Already the tear stains under Ozzy eyes have started fading, his paws which were very dry have started improving and the pee stains on the grass from Micah seems to be a thing of the past. I still can't believe it. Thanks Linda for a truly helpful thread

[valkyries]

Thanks glad they work xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

[PnkFlyd204]

Fantastic thread. I'm going to have to try some of these!!!

[valkyries]

please write up if they work xxxx

[Alee C.]

I'm not sure if this is already on here, but Baking soda is great for 2 things.

1.) Rather then letting their dogs nails grow too painfully long, or having to pay the vet every once in a while, many owners choose to clip their own dogs(animals) nails. Unfortunately some pets have black nails and the quik can be very difficult to see. Fortunately I've never cut the quik on my husky's nails, I have however cut it on my ferret's nails once, and his nails were white. Anybody who has ever cut the quik before knows that it bleeds quite a bit. If this ever happens to any owner the first thing they need to reach for is, you guessed it the baking soda. Just take the baking soda and coat the nail in it, the quik will stop bleeding in no time.

2.) I think all of us husky owners know without a doubt that they are very curious animals. And sometimes they're curiosity can get them into a dab of trouble. I'm sure all owners have experienced a ''skunked'' pet. If so the first thing a lot of people think of is tomato juice. This however is not the best remedy. Scientist have found that you can neutralize the scent of ''skunk'' with a mixture of water, liquid hand soap, and baking soda.

[KERNOWHUSKIES]

When dogs get sore or itchy feet (running on roads and clabering over rocks covered in barnacles, if u live near the sea) bathe them in Epsom Salts, A good sign of itchy feet is kickin out when they lie down. Its worked everytime 4 me.

[sutsibe]

I've been lucky so far - my dogs haven't gotten skunked! - but the recipe I've heard works really well is:

1 Quart hydrogen peroxide (the standard 3% solution)

1/4 cup baking soda

1-2 Tablespoons dish soap (Dawn seems to be best, but I'm sure others will work, too)

Do not wet the coat with water first - rub the solution in thoroughly, and let it sit for at least 5 minutes to help neutralize the stink. Rinse well with lukewarm water, and repeat if necessary.

[Sheepy]

Thanks for the great tips~

[harri&ashley]

great post will be trying some of the tips

[Leaddog]

Chloe got skunked about 3 years ago She got sprayed right in the face too!!! Poor girl I just know she was trying to tell me that she just wanted to smell the black kitty's butt...it raised its tail for her and everything lmao anyways the recipe that sutsibe posted works OK...

1 Quart hydrogen peroxide (the standard 3% solution)

1/4 cup baking soda

1-2 Tablespoons dish soap (Dawn seems to be best, but I'm sure others will work, too)

thats the one I used on Chloe first. And I will admit that it helped make the horrid smell not as bad...but there was still a bad odor afterwards. The only thing I found to work is a product called Nature's Miracle Skunk Odor Remover. It got almost all the smell out...but for like a year afterwards...any time she got wet the smell would come back lol stupid skunks!!!! heres a link to it...

Nature's Miracle Skunk Odor Remover

[skye diesel n polo]

if you want to try it if you doggy has a runny tummy try 5ml of peptobismol every 6 hours while on a 24 hours starve then stop when normal feeding resumes also u can give ur dog electro lyte powder to replace wats lost when runny but make it for a child not adult x

[BladesBird]

Neem oil shampoo home made spray, keeps fleas, ticks, mites and any other annoying biting insects away, and also promotes a shiny coat and healthy skin (just like using neem products on your own hair and skin ).A 0.5% - 1% solution is strong enough as a repellent spray to protect dogs from mosquitoes, fleas etc. However, if your dog already has a problem with fleas or ticks you can increase the concentration to 10% (remember that a lot more soap will be required to dissolve the oil).Instead of spraying I'd use a sponge and coat your dogs fur in the solution. This solution will even keep buffalo and sand flies away, if your unlucky enough to have them. Just remember a little neem oil goes a long way.

Standard recipe

2.5 ml neem oil

1 ml mild soap or detergent

0.5 liter warm water

Use warm (not hot!) water, the oil will dissolve much better.

Mix the warm water with the soap first

Then slowly add the oil while stirring vigorously.

Fill the mix into your sprayer.

Use immediately.

Neem oil also kills headlice (same recipe as above), spiders can't stand it and its a very good natural insecticide!!!

[kyle_2011]

Thanks very interesting

[julie1]

Neem oil shampoo home made spray, keeps fleas, ticks, mites and any other annoying biting insects away, and also promotes a shiny coat and healthy skin (just like using neem products on your own hair and skin ).A 0.5% - 1% solution is strong enough as a repellent spray to protect dogs from mosquitoes, fleas etc. However, if your dog already has a problem with fleas or ticks you can increase the concentration to 10% (remember that a lot more soap will be required to dissolve the oil).Instead of spraying I'd use a sponge and coat your dogs fur in the solution. This solution will even keep buffalo and sand flies away, if your unlucky enough to have them. Just remember a little neem oil goes a long way.

Standard recipe

2.5 ml neem oil

1 ml mild soap or detergent

0.5 liter warm water

Use warm (not hot!) water, the oil will dissolve much better.

Mix the warm water with the soap first

Then slowly add the oil while stirring vigorously.

Fill the mix into your sprayer.

Use immediately.

Neem oil also kills headlice (same recipe as above), spiders can't stand it and its a very good natural insecticide!!!

we use a mild fabric conditioner every 3 to 4 months. after we shampoo our huskies we put fabric conditioner on there coats then rince off thoroughly there coats feel great smell great and they never pick up fleas or ticks:)

[Ohio4husky]

Friend of mine visited last year with her two jack Russell's. We live on a large farm so naturally they get to run and play here. Against my wishes, she let them out after dark of leash, even tho i warned about skunks, coyote, and other critters. In a flash, they chased a skunk into a culvert and both got sprayed in the face as the pursued head first.

Firstly, don't use tomato juice. It makes the smell worse! Sometimes i think that's a joke history played on us lol.

Secondly, the recipe with dawn works great but drop the peroxide and use white vinegar instead. Mix up dawn with baking soda until you get a thin paste. her dogs needed one cup each, so a husky will need considerably more. Massage it into coat as you would a shampoo and allow it to sit 5-10 minutes. Do your rinse with the white vinegar.

It took two cycles for each of her dogs and worked miraculously!

Reminder about skunk spray: the spray is oil-based, so it will absorb into bigger pores such as in the nose, ears and feet. You will smell the skunk smell for around a month after incident anytime the dog goes outside in wet, warm, or humid conditions since these conditions cause pores to open. Dab these areas with diluted vinegar upon coming inside to break down the oils, thus ridding the smell faster.

[PaulG]

I couldn't see this but

Arrowroot powder, flour, the root, dried herb.

has many uses the powder/flour can help with upset stomachs and the runs

for further info check this link www.healthbenefitstimes.com/health-benefits-of-arrowroot/