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Everything posted by wolfpup

  1. I have two rescues, both pullers - one reactive - one not. The latest one WILL try to kill anything the size of a cat or smaller - so we are taking less walks at the estuary - too many dogs off lead. I cannot use a slip lead as the reactive one can get out of them - he has a habit of turning to face you and backing out whilst ducking his head - he must have had one of these in the past. I cannot use one for the other dog either - he is a woolly and a slip lead would destroy his neck fur and block with fur so not get tight enough - and if he gets loose I wont see him again (airhead). We even tried the canny collars but BOTH dogs can get out of them - even when the collars are too tight. I have had to stick to a front-lead harness for both dogs (i.e. the lead attaches at the chest), which tends to turn them round if they lunge - but over the years they have gotten used to this and both are still champion pullers. Strangely enough if the smaller of the two is just out with me he only takes around 5 minutes to settle down and not pull too severely - but if the other dog is with us - all bets are off. The other dog will walk nicely with me on his own but if he sees another dog - particularly a smaller dog, I get pulled over. Both dogs together are a nightmare. Its not my dogs' fault though - they CAN do it (separately and with me) but hubby takes them out more than I do and he just puts up with it - i.e. they get no consistency. If you do find something I have not tried please let us know. I used to control a Borzoi with just a head collar (halti type) and at the time he weighed around the same as I did - not found one that can stay on Marley more than 4 seconds.
  2. I am so sorry for you and your pup - and wish I had something to say to help you. For future dogs please wait until the growth plates have fully closed - around 18 months in a husky - up to 2 years in larger breeds. Not only does this help prevent things like hip and elbow displaysia, But also the sex hormones do more for the body - especially as the dog is still so young - not as important once the dog is sexually mature. They do have a part to play in growth. I have two boys, both rescues - one I got at 3 1/2 years already neutered, the other I got at 12 weeks old he has not been neutered and is currently 6 1/2 years - never been any issues with him still being intact. One of my old boys (also a rescue and neutered) still developed cancer in the testicle sac, so vets using this as a reason does not make any sense to me. I know I am a cynical old biddy - but vets get up to 2/3 of their income from repeat vaccinations (which are not needed) and desexing our dogs. I truly hope your lovely little girl suffers no consequences.
  3. Happy 6 month milestone Arya
  4. Agree with BB&S - chuck the rawhide out now. Not only can it swell in the stomach and intestines, it can cause blockages requiring surgery. Plus if it is a nice white/cream colour - it has been bleached - and so is actually toxic for your puppy. Also you have to be careful of country of origin - a LOT of these are made in China. This week my friend's dog lost a tooth and broke another four on a Nylabone - and is booked in next week to have two of the broken teeth removed and two repaired - looking at around £700-£900 in dental bills. Please choose a size appropriate RAW bone for your dog - huskies can cope with lamb ribs, lamb femurs even a lamb spine and lamb tail - possibly even a beef rib. Malamutes can cope with beef ribs, lamb spines, beef necks. Huskies can also have chicken necks. If you can get meaty bones, pulling the meat off the bone will also clean between the teeth - even better than a toothbrush. It will also slow him down.
  5. I cannot give you a detailed explanation because I am not an expert - just a husky owner. You already know about the regulation of body temperature - surely the most important item in a breed acclimatised for the arctic suddenly finding itself in conditions it should never encounter naturally. Also, because of where they have lived for thousands of years huskies have very little pigment in their skin and are particularly sensitive to the sun - so a shaved husky has no protection from the sun's rays - and constant exposure can lead to skin cancer. Especially for those dogs in warmer climate the double coat also helps protect his skin (and therefore him) against bugs and biting insects. Your dog will shed naturally in warmer weather - this will allow far greater air movement against his skin and cool him naturally - when he starts shedding just groom him often to ensure all loose hair is fully removed - his top coat will protect him from the sun's rays, and also provide good air flow over the skin keeping it healthy and himm cooler. My husky is a wooly and the fur on his rear end and tail can reach 8" in length - a nightmare to groom - but in the summer (current heatwave where I am) he has a fan to help lower the temperature indoors, a shallow pool outside to walk through so he can wet his feet, he also was bathed yesterday - it usually triggers a massive blow-out of his coat to help him cope with the warmer weather.
  6. So glad for you - that he such a happy, relaxed, boy and easily takes direction. I have fostered a 9 month old Mal in the past - my then 3 year old husky barely survived the experience ! Love your gorgeous boy for the magnificent dog he is - YOUR baby.
  7. Hi and welcome to the forum. Seeing him with you and against the other dog (guessing a sibling)? I would say yes. However it would be strange that all his siblings are 'normal' sized and only he showed Mal proportions - but I am no expert - I have only had huskies for 6 years. Possibly a resessive gene from further back in his lineage? Its good he is easy to train - at that size if he was like one of mine life would be very 'interesting' to say the least (one of my boys is a complete airhead).
  8. This is going to sound rough (I am not the most tactful person on the planet) but it is not meant that way. I am passing on the knowledge gained during my two nutrition courses. Pedigree is not a good make of dog food - despite the clever marketing. Kibble is the worst possible food to give a dog or cat - for many reasons:- THE GOOD - its cheap and convenient for the owner (but its cheap for a reason) THE BAD - Any dog eating kibble is in a permanant state of dehydration (not good) Kibble manufacturers use a purchased premix of vitamins and minerals - they have to use this as by the time it has gone through up to 3 separate cooking sessions, then the extrusion, then another cooking/drying process - all the natural vitamins and most of the minerals have been totally denatured and are dead. What comes out is sterile - and has to have vitamins ets sprayed onto it in order to pass the low-standards of dog food nutrition. The manufacturers buy this premix usually from China - the worlds largest producer of premix. China does not have the best track record in safety or hygiene for humans let alone dogs. The vitamins used are not natural vitamins but chemical ones - these are actually mirror images of natural vitamins - and your dog's body does not recognise these as easily - nor is it able to access, and utilise them as easily (in some cases not at all) No kibble on the market is less than 40% starch/carbohydrate - its the only way that the tiny kibble pieces stick together and not crumble into powder - even 'grain free' kibble (it just uses other forms of starch like pea, sweet potato etc. To find the amount of starch in your dogs kibble - look on the back of the pack for the guaranteed analysis, add up all the % numbers and take this away from 100 - what is left is carbohydrate and starch. Up to 30% of the weight of a bag of kibble consists of an ingredient your dog cannot digest ! Whilst you are looking - notice that there is no section for carbohydrate listed (protein and vitamins are there). The reason for this is that there is no requirement to list how much carbohydrate is in the food because no scientist has been able to prove that dogs require carbohydrate at all in their diets ! Because no-one has found that dogs NEED carbonydrate - it does not have to form part of the nutritional analysis. Dogs cannot digest starch - their saliva does not contain amylase like ours which starts the digestion of carbohydrates and starch. It is true the pancreas does contain an amylase enzyme - but for the last 40 million years it has been used to providing enough for approximately 4% carbohydrate and starch in the ancestral diet - and your dog is eating at least 40% starch (some kibbles contain up to 60% starch) - so your dog's pancreas is working a LOT harder than it should - and is enzyme deficient. Dogs do have a bacteria that CAN digest starch - that bacteria is called Fermicutees - and it causes chronic inflammation in your dog and his digestive tract. Believe me I could go on - but if you have read this far I am hoping you just might stop believing the manufacturer's blurb on the packet - they have only one job - to sell as much as possible for the cheapest price possible - which means that nice plump healthy looking chicken on the front of the pack - is actually more like the neck, backs, feet, head and feathers - i.e. everything that is left over once the humans have taken everything they want first. In order of nutrition for the dog the following may help 1. Raw meat and raw pureed vegetables The raw meat actually contains all the digestive enzymes needed to digest the meat - so your dog's pancreas does not have to work so hard. Also his body easily recognises all the different components of the meat and can easily break it down into the nutrients HE needs to make the different proteins and vitamins AND amino acids your dog requires daily. 2. Freeze dried Raw - the enzymes are not destroyed in the freeze drying process, nor are the vitamins/proteins etc. This has all the convenience of kibble - but with around 90-95% % of the nutrition of raw food. The bad side is, it is the most expensive way to feed a dog. 3. Commercial raw 4. Home cooked food (you get the raw ingredients and lightly cook it yourself) lightly cooking does not completely destroy all the natural enzymes in the meat 5. Tinned food 6. Kibble 7. plain starvation Dogs fed long term kibble - are up to 4 times more likely to get diabetes and pancreatitis. Saving a few pounds a week for convenience will almost inevitably cost far more in vet fees as the dog ages. As your dog gets older the amount of digestive enzymes his pancreas produces lessens dramatically - which makes it far more likely he will develop issues like pancreatitis. I also have two huskies (rescues) both are around 6 - 6 1/2 we have had one dog for 3 1/2 years - yet to be introduced to our vets. The other one we have had since a young pup (12 weeks) he has severe food allergies (life threatening true allergies not intolerances) - he has seen a vet twice in the last 3 1/2 years, once because he got a bone stuck in his teeth (first time in 50 odd years of having dogs) and the other for tests on his eyes due to a faulty gene. One weighs 28-29 kilos and the other around 32-34kilos (bigger boned dog). It costs me around £20 a week to feed them both - but the allergic boy can only eat grass fed beef, wild venison, wild kangaroo, lamb, wild salmon, wild caught fatty fish. No commercially raised livestock - as he is allergic to what that animal ate before becoming his dinner, i.e. soya, wheat, oats, corn, rice, potatoes, carrots, peas, & sugar beet. 7 of these are medium or high starch items - which breaks down to sugar in the body and is deposited in the saturated fat layer - and one is sugar. The one that is not high starch (soya) is proving to be the one most likely culprit in the ever increasing numbers of food allergies in dogs - because 90% of the soya grown today is genetically modified - and its in EVERY commercially raised animal's food because it is also the cheapest. Can I please ask you to do some research - look on sites such as Dogs Naturally Magazine, or Innovative Vetinerary Care. You will find many articles and studies backing up what I have said above. If you actually got this far - thank-you. AND in answer to your question - change your dogs onto real food - the same food their ancestors have eaten for the last 40 million years (the first dog Lepticin came around 40 million years ago) - your dog's ancestors had no-one to provide his food, he had to go and catch it and eat it as nature intended - and over the last 40 million years they have done quite well on it - do you honestly believe that if all dogs were fed kibble they will be here in another 40 million years??
  9. Oh boy - what a beauty he is! One of my boys could be his father (he's not obviously). My boy is also smaller than breed standards - but I believe that was caused by his several severe food allergies so he wasn't getting all the nutrition he could have, - that despite my holding two qualifications in dog nutrition. My other boy is 2" taller and 3" longer than Marley. At 16 months I would have your boy on an adult diet rather than puppy. The nutritional requirement of puppies is different to those of a young adult. Also huskies tend to broaden out once fully mature - at around 2 years old. Marley certainly did, - he gained around 6 kilos in a short period when he was around 2 1/2. He is now 29 kilos and 6 1/2y.o.. Personally I would put him on a totally raw diet, with pureed green vegetables - things like brocolli, spinach, brussel sprouts (if you can get them where you are) and berries, - preferably blueberries, but also blackberries, raspberries, (preferably no strawberries - too high in sugar and they can also harbour a dangerous-to-dogs mould). Raw meaty bones to clean his teeth - nothing too big - chicken necks/duck necks (not turkey necks), my boys get lamb's ribs as well.
  10. She is growing up very quickly !!
  11. I have only raised one husky pup (from 12 weeks old) both mine are rescues - the other I got at 3.5 years old. When Marley was young he bit everything - basically because he was taken from mum and siblings too early (I was his 4th owner - even at 12 weeks old). I used to yelp loudly whenever he bit me - whether it was a hard bite or not - and stopped playing with him (or whatever we had been doing) - it took him a while but he got the message eventually. As to the toilet training - constant reminding and repitition, and tons of patience. I also have a cat ......................... luckily Marley grew up with 2 cats and an older dog (not a husky) who was friends with both cats, so he had a role model. One cat (the smaller of the two) would tolerate no nonsense from Marley and smartly put him in his place. Our remaining cat used to go into 'slow-motion' mode when surrounded by dogs so as not to trigger the chase reflex and the two are still good friends (Marley is now 6.5 y.o.). However we have 4ft gates to the kitchen (rarely closed), & just outside the lounge door, - guarding the front door and the stairs (they will escape), another gate at the top of the stairs and yet another one to hubby's office - which also has the cat's food and water. If our other husky (Mikey) ever gets to our cat - it will be the end of the cat. Huskies and cats are not good 'bedfellows' (to be honest, huskies and ANY small furries are not a good idea). So Mikey (potential cat-killer husky) has access to the lounge, kitchen and back garden, Marley (husky) gets the run of the whole house if he asks to go by the front door (to get away from Mikey) and Socks our cat lives upstairs now - he is very much in his twilight years and suffering from dementia - he could easily get between the bars of the gate at the top of the stairs and come downstairs - but has not even tried for nearly two years. If you want to keep your dog - get gates and keep him away from the cat - he might think the cat is a moveable toy at present - but unless your cat can fight and 'beat up' your dog to teach him some manners - then the outlook is not hopeful for them getting on. Huskies have the highest prey-drive of any domesticated dog. Luckily hubby's office is upstairs so the cat has company for around 6-7 hours during the day and at night he curls up in bed with me so he is not missing out.
  12. Sorry to hear the news about beautiful Skyla, and I believe you have made the right decision - she has had the best life with you guys, just love her a bit more every day.
  13. Gorgeous pair of dogs! I agree huskies need a partner in crime.
  14. Welcome to you both
  15. Most of us are spread quite widely - I don't actually know of anyone who lives in London - I am in Lancashire (one hell of a commute).
  16. Welcome back Paul - you have been missed. Glad your health appears to be improving.
  17. You dont say where you are - can you get to an holistic vet? Has Bear had any dietary issues? Does he suffer with perodic diarrhoea? There are some vitamin and mineral deficiencies that can cause hair loss e.g. if the dog has an IRON deficiency - iron is essential for transporting vitamins and oxygen around the body - Iron contributes to hemoglobin manufacturing, which helps ship vitamins and oxygen to hair follicles. Without sufficient iron, the hair won’t develop, growing progressively thinner hair. A quick check on the internet also brought up these results. Allergies Allergies are a common underlying cause of many symptoms experienced by dogs. They can trigger pet hair loss whenever the dog has an allergic reaction to their environment, foods, or parasites. Dogs often suffer from a flea allergy, leading to increased licking and biting of the irritated areas. The flea bite can create an allergic reaction that can last for days, providing the dog with an extended need to itch, scratch, lick, and irritate the already irritated skin, ultimately causing hair loss. Discovering the exact allergen can help prevent allergic reactions in dogs. If it is a food allergy, switch brands or food types, or try homemade recipes. For fleas, take preventative measures such as monthly flea medication; if there is an infestation on the dog, wash your pooch using a flea shampoo and give him a flea-removing oral medication that kills fleas in 2-8 hours. It may be an environmental allergen. Talk to the vet about starting allergy medication or shots to reduce their irritation. 2. Cushing’s Disease Causes Dog Hair Loss Hyperadrenocorticism, or Cushing's Disease, is caused by an overproduction of a cortisol hormone, which helps dogs respond to stress and modulates the immune system. Dog hair loss is not the only symptom of Cushing's Disease – it is usually accompanied by a lack of energy, bruising, obesity, and increased hunger, thirst, urination, and panting. It mainly affects middle-aged to older dogs rather than puppies or adolescent dogs. After the vet has officially determined that your pooch has Cushing's Disease, the treatment will vary by how severe the condition is. If it's caused by medication, they will slowly wean the dog off the medicine. When the dog is only experiencing mild symptoms, you will monitor it instead of treated it immediately. If the dog's symptoms become worse, a vet will prescribe trilostane. This medication comes with dangerous side effects, which is why your veterinarian will wait until it is necessary to specify it rather than using it as a preventative measure. 3. Major Dog Hair Loss Occurs With Mange Mange is an inflammatory disease caused by the Demodex mite. As the number of mites living in the hair follicles and skin of the dog increases, it can lead to lesions, infections, and dog hair loss. Mange can either be localized, only affecting specific areas of the dog's skin, or it can be generalized and affect the entirety of your pup's body. Usually, the mites inhabiting the surface of the dog do not change their hair or skin, but when the numbers grow out of control, it becomes damaging to their fur. Mange does not require treatment when it is to a small degree. It will usually disappear on its own, doing so spontaneously. The vet will recommend long-term medications to control the condition whenever it reaches a severe stage, often generalized and not sporadic. If the dog is a female, it should be spayed. Fluctuations in hormones can exacerbate the symptoms. Changing to high-quality dog food and a low-stress environment may be able to reduce flare-ups. 4. Ringworm Ringworm is a fungal infection that lives and grows in infected dogs' skin and hair follicles, occasionally infecting the nails. The infection is normally only a surface infection and only affects a few areas of the dog’s body. Any dog can get ringworm. It affects puppies, senior dogs, and immunocompromised dogs more intensely. It can lead to widespread ringworm infections on their bodies. Ringworm is infectious and spreads through direct contact, contaminated objects, and people. Dog hair loss is one of the common symptoms of this condition. Again, the treatment of this infection depends on its severity, making it a dog-by-dog case. The vet will usually determine the severity after a physical exam and a diagnostic test using a sample of your pet's hair and/or skin cells. Typically, the treatment process goes through three steps. First, a vet will suggest topical therapy consisting of either a cream, ointment, or medicated shampoo. Second, they will prescribe an anti-fungal oral medication to fight the infection. The third step consists of environmental decontamination. The removal and cleaning of all loose hairs found on couches, grooming tools, furniture, clothing, and bedding remove the infectious spores. 5. Rashes and Hives Can Cause Dog Hair Loss Insect bites and stings, plants, chemicals, shampoos, and medications can cause rashes. They can also cause hives on the dog's body and then lead to alopecia in dogs. These can also include allergic rashes, which are separate from allergies. Allergic rashes and hives typically appear within hours. Sometimes minutes of exposure, while other symptoms may arise, include listlessness, fever, and vomiting. The allergic rash or hive-site in dogs often goes bald, causing the hair to fall out. Allergic rashes and hives require further treatment than simply removal of the allergens. This is often a reaction requiring immediate treatment from the vet to prevent a more substantial, full-body condition.
  18. I have dug out two different articles for you to read that may help you - and will definitely help your dog. https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/best-food-senior-dogs/ https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/senior-dog-supplements/
  19. Why on earth ask about a house in a dog forum?
  20. wolfpup

    My husky

    One of my dogs was very thin - only he was hidden underneath a very thick, long coat - they tend to fill out a bit when they get to about 2.
  21. Welcome to both you and VERY cute Boris - I love his markings around his eyes! I would say he is most definitely a RED. One of the main differences between a 'normal' dog and a husky is that the other puppy will learn in order to please you .................. Boris on the other hand will be thinking to himself "what's in it for me"? You will find many many differences between the two pups - Boris is almost certainly going to be the one misbehaving and not doing as he is told. Can I suggest you search the internet and learn everything you can about huskies - their temperament, characteristics, and mainly that they will never be able to be let off lead once they near maturity unless in a secure area with a minimum of 6ft fencing - and that goes for your garden too. Their prey-drive is the highest of any domesticated dog - so little furry creatures beware, - and if something catches their attention - recall is almost non-existant. They are consummate escape artists so make sure you have gates protecting your front door if at all possible. They are (in my opinion) the best dogs on the planet - will challenge you constantly and outwit you at least twice a week, believe me they are far more intelligent than they let on. I regret waiting so long before getting my first husky - I was told when I first got Marley that one husky is never enough ................. they were right I now have 2 and wish I had enough years left in me to have more.
  22. It is possible that he is drinking too much too quickly, but just to be on the safe side I would get him checked by another vet if at all possible, just because he is so young.
  23. wolfpup


    If it happens again I will !!! The repairers said I have about a year with this computer - then will have to buy another one - but first I am going to back it all up (just in case).
  24. I am sorry but the longer you allow this to continue - the longer it will be before you can correct it - and it needs correcting NOW! Please find a dog behaviourist near you. This is not normal behaviour for a husky. Your dog is biting you to try and get his/her own way - usually this type of behaviour is a result of the pup being taken from the mother too early and not learning bite inhibition. One of my rescue dogs was taken from mum too early - but he was only around 3 months old and it took me around 4 months to stop him from nipping to get his own way. I used to yelp loudly (like a puppy would) and stop all interaction with him, usually getting up and walking away. He needs to understand that biting will only get him a 'time-out' from the rest of the family and that he is not to nip anyone at any time. Good luck.
  25. Wish I could suggest something for you Teri. My experience lies in nutrition only.
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