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wolfpup

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Everything posted by wolfpup

  1. As with us - variety is key. The more different meats and fish your give your pup the more nutrients he will get. I give my dogs the same meal 2 days running, then change to a different meat. They get bored with eating the same thing day in day out as we would. Give your pup a whisked raw egg at least 2 times a week either on its own or poured over the meal. Just to give you an idea this is a menu I designed for a client who wanted to feed chicken (I don't as one of my dogs is highly allergic to what chickens are fed). It is a complete and balanced meal plan - requiring no supplementation whatsoever for her dog - you would need to add a calcium supplement - or feed the bone in with the thigh (as she did). In this case I used sardine specifically because it is the best one out of the fish for countering chicken. I would normally recommend mackerel. Please note the weights are for her dog specifically - you would have to adapt to your dog's weight. It does however give you an idea. Whilst heart and lungs are not organs - they do contain beneficial nutrients for this particular meal. All 42 nutrients I have to calculate for when providing a meal meet or exceed the minimum amounts with nothing missing. Food Item Weight (g) Fish_SARDINE 150.00 Chicken_broilers_or_fryers_dark_meat_thigh_meat_only_raw 750.00 Lamb_variety_meats_and_by-products_heart_raw 10.00 Lamb_variety_meats_and_by-products_liver_raw 70.00 Lamb_variety_meats_and_by-products_lungs_raw 20.00 Spinach_raw 110.00 Blueberries_raw 15.00 Dandelion_greens_raw 5.00
  2. Low starch veggies - broccoli, spinach, asparagus, kale, brussel sprouts are all excellent. These must be pureed - dogs do not chew their food as you know - so you must do it for them. Limit veg to around 5% of the meal in total. Same goes for fruit, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, cranberries all excellent - avoid strawberries as they can contain an aflatoxin mould that is invisible to the naked eye and can go right into the strawberry. Berries are the best form of fruit. All meat is fair game - if you can eat it so can your pup (i.e. don't feed vermin, or seagull and be wary of the common pigeon). Wild animals contain around 5%-7% fat - domestically raised animals can contain up to 30% fat (evidently we like them like that) - aim for your dog to get between 10% (ideal) and 20% (absolute max) amount of fat in his meals. Whilst dogs NEED fat in their diet (they only need protein and fat in order to survive ........ the extras enable them to thrive). Fat contains far more calories than protein as you know, so if thefat content is too high - then the dog cannot possibly eat enough in order to get the full nutrition he needs. i.e. Fat cannibalizes protein. (Lamb can be around 20% fat in the leanest looking meat you can find). Having said that all meat is far game - you must learn how to balance the fats in different meats. Chicken (poultry in general - totally because of the way we feed them grains - is very unbalanced - they are omnivors naturally and love worms, mealworms, flies, - insects in general) - and really the only thing that will balance a meal mainly consisting of chicken is spirulina or chlorella - or fresh (frozen) 'fatty' fish i.e. mackerel, sardines or herrings. (see end of post) Beef, Lamb, Goat (ruminants) - The foods most suitable to balance the fats in beef, lamb and goat etc. are fresh whole fish (4oz of fish for every pound of meat), green-lipped mussel oil (1/4 tsp per 25lbs of dog weight), hempseed oil (2-3 tsp per 1lb of food) and organic chlorella (phytoplankton) about 1/8th tsp to start with. Nearly everyone will think of fish oil, - and its true it will help balance the omegas - but fish oil is unsustainable, quickly oxidizes and goes rancid – and its doing our oceans no favours. I heartily recommend chlorella – no matter how you feed your dogs – it goes with everything! Always go for ORGANIC. Green lipped mussel oil is rich in important EPA and DHA, (brain food and protector) like fish oil, but it’s better for your dog than fish oil. It contains 30 fatty acids, while fish and other marine oils only contain two. hellishly expensive, and not easy to get – as is ahiflower oil (Amazon is one place they are available) – but you can get green lipped mussel powder (but not quite as good in this particular case) - I recommend you go to Riaflex - they sell the pure powder – no fillers of any kind – its by far the cheapest way of buying it – and it lasts forever! It is also one of the best things on the planet for your dog’s joints, - along with the inner membrane from an eggshell. No matter how you feed - whenever you crack an egg – peel the membrane off the inside of the shell and give it to your dog. If you feed poultry then the options are limited – by the way never give your dog poultry skin - waaaayyyy to high in fat! Poultry is very high in omega 6 fats and low in omega 3 fats. There aren’t as many foods or oils you can add to poultry because the PUFAs in poultry are already too high. But you can add whole fish (NOT fish oil) - fish oil is not a good choice in this case because it’s also high in PUFAs but fresh whole fish will do a good job helping to balance the omega-3&6 fats. The only other thing I would add to poultry (if I fed poultry) would be chlorella - it goes with everything and can be added daily no matter what is fed. Remember if you are going to feed raw from scatch then you must either add around 15% bone or good quality bone meal supplement to the diet. Your pup will also require offal - as many organs as you can get (they are limited in the UK because of CJD) if feeding a variety of organ meats this can make up to 25% of the meal - providing liver does not go over 10% of the meal in total. If only feeding liver - again limit it to a maximum of 10% of the meal. Remember heart is a muscle meat - not offal - and lung is not regarded as offal either. You need the organs - liver, pancreas, kidneys, spleen, testes, - brain and eyes if you can get them. Mince the organs all together freeze in portions and feed. One way to ensure your pup is getting at least some of all organs is to feed day old chicks (i.e. the whole animal) and whole fish (but do cut off the tail and fins - these are too stiff and could cause damage). £ (or $) per pound of weight in fresh (frozen) fish - Mackerel contains more nutrition than either sardines or herring - but all are excellent - and contain almost all the nutrition your pup needs. If you catch your own fish you MUST freeze the fish for at least one week to kill any parasites the fish may have in its gills etc. (Please do not gut the fish). The idea is to feed the organs along with the fish. If you have any other queries - just shout. BTW I have 2 huskies - one is around 3" taller, longer and around 4 kilos heavier than the other (both male) - the smaller one was unable to get the nutrition he needed early on (due to food allergies) - and therefore is smaller in size - but he makes up for it in personality.
  3. Adult dog food does not contain the amount of calcium that a puppy needs - nor does 'all life stage' food. Kibble is also NOT the way to feed a growing puppy - but I have posted enough on this in previous posts to spend an hour retyping things again, only to never hear gain from the poster. Please spend the time here to search out feeding dogs. Learn how to raw feed your puppy - the food his ancestors have eaten for the last 40 million years - the food his body is designed, has evolved, to eat. Dogs can digest around 4% carbohydrate/starch - kibble is around 30-50% carbohydrate/starch. If you are serious about wanting to know what to feed your carnivore - reply to my post.
  4. So sorry for you both. Run free lovely lady.
  5. I am sorry but I cannot see clearly on the photo - but if there is any sort of bowing you are right to get it checked out by a vet. If it were one bone growing faster than the other I would expect to see the paw being turned outwards, but your dog's paws look straight/aligned. A vet visit is certainly called for though - please keep us informed, and good luck.
  6. Her mom and dad obviously live in the States, and they survived. I know of at least two huskies living in India ! You just need to take some precautions. Build shade in your garden now (somewhere preferably the sun never reaches) - whilst it is getting cooler - preferably with a source of cold (like ice - or marble) that your dog could lay on if necessary. If your dog was to jump in your pool to try and cool off - could she get out easily on her own? Do you need to build a slope/platform of some kind for her to enable to get out easily? Her safety is obviously paramount if you are out at work. As for her going to the bathroom - is she not housetrained? Or do you mean whilst you are out at work? Don't think a fan will help - dogs only sweat from their paws, and also lose heat from panting. A fan actually does next to nothing for them. An amount of cold water (say a kiddie paddling pool in the shade) that she can walk through and possibly lay in to help her keep cool will help. A source of cold water always available for drinking is a must. An easy way to check if it is too hot to walk her is to find a bit of pavement in the sun - and walk on it in bare feet - if it is too warm for you - it is certainly too warm for your dog. In the summer, even in the UK, hubby takes our two out around 4a.m - 5a.m., and they don't go out again until the evening. NEVER be tempted to shave your dog - the double coat will actually protect her from a lot of the heat - and the guard hair (outer layer of the double coat) will also reflect a lot of the UV radiation and heat. Without the outer layer of hair, you dog could overheat and die. I may have some other thoughts once you reply - and hopefully other, more experienced husky owners than I will chip in (I have only had huskies for 7 years).
  7. Muscle & Performance .................... hmmmmm - no details as to whether it is a natural product - and if so what is it made from - or (more likely) synthetic. Synthetic vitamins are actually lab-made and are mirror images of the naturally occuring vitamins - and the body does not recognize the mirror images as easily - and the body is not able to assimilate them as easily (if at all in some cases). I would be extremely wary of giving my dogs ANY product with so little detail. They also give no details as to the 'high protein base'. Never come across the Canina Canhydrox GAG - but at least the ingredients were in English - Calcium and Phosphorus with protein and ash (minerals) - you would be as well to give your dog raw meaty lamb ribs (breast of lamb cut into the individual ribs). Your dog would also clean his teeth by pulling on the meat and chewing the bones. The best thing you could do for your dog is to feed him a fresh raw meat diet with bones and offal - the more organs the better, fresh low carb vegetables 5%-10% (spinach, brocolli, cauliflower, asparagus, kale, etc) with berries (around 5%)- blueberries, blackberries, raspberries etc, Fresh (frozen for one week to kill the parasites) whole fish - mackerel, sardines, herrings, sprats or anchovies (twice a week). Raw beaten egg twice a week, make him some bone broth - it is excellent for dogs recouperating from illness - extremely easy on the digestion and packed full of nutrition - a sick dog can live on bone broth alone for a couple of weeks. Dogs first appeared around 40 million years ago - and from then up to around 100 years ago - there was no one around to make their food. They had to go out - catch and kill it, then eat it all - skin, fur & feathers as well as all the organs. They have done extremely well on this diet of raw whole food for 40 million years ............ why try to change it now? I hold two qualifications in dog food nutrition, one in raw dog food nutrition, and the other - advanced canine nutrition. If you would like any help in devising a raw diet for your pup I will be happy to help.
  8. Then welcome - you are doing the right thing by researching first - huskies are not for novice dog owners. They are a fantastic breed of dog, but very challenging, almost impossible to train to recall, cannot be let off lead as adults (prey drive too high), consummate escape artists - need a minimum of 6ft secure fencing etc. Not interested in pleasing their 'owners', - and if you want them to do something - they will ask you "what is in it for me". Having said all that - I would never have any other breed now.
  9. HI, How about showing us your husky? We LOVE pictures !! How long have you had him/her, etc
  10. I am so sorry thing happened - and I cannot even guess as to why he would bite without any reason/provocation. I have only had one dog that bit me without any sort of provocation - it turned out he had focal epilepsy - and when he was going into having a fit he would actively look me out, concentrate totally on my hands - and if I didn't realise he was having a fit - I would get bitten. However with him he would bite down and not let go - for anything - until the fit had passed. I had two lacerated thumbs, a broken middle finger etc before I could tell when he was goiing to have a seizure. If he is picking on your mother - I would seek out professional help - a behaviourist - you have young children - it is not worth the risk.
  11. Welcome to the forum - you can download a free picture size shrinker - the one I use is Light Image Resizer - you should not have a problem with that ......... been using it for all my photos. It sounds as if your two have a good life, - I was particularly interested when you said they are very well fed (I am a dog food nutritionist) and am always interested in what people feed our magnificent dogs. Cannot say I am surprised you got them both - looking at them as puppies, who could resist them - or choose between them!
  12. The same food that your dog's ancestors have eaten for the last 40 million years (yes, I meant 40 million). Raw Food, at least 50% pure raw meat - preferably around 75%. Vegetables around 5-10% depending whether you need to put weight on or take it off. 5% berries and around 10% offal.
  13. Thank you for the clarification - its not unusual for me to get the wrong end of the stick either. The mother looks as if she carries genes for a large dog and her head is, to me, reminicient of a great dane in shape (although she obviously isn't). The genes a pup gets is totally random depending on which sperm fertilized the egg (it really is that random). Your pup could have inherited a recessive gene from one of his great or great-great grandparents. Any one of which could have been a bigger dog. Someone else contacted us around 6 months ago about his pup being so much bigger than his litter mates - he looked full Malamute against his husky siblings (6 of them I think) he was easily double the size of any of his brothers and sisters - that again must have been a recessive gene. Mutations crop up from time to time - its what has allowed dogs to become so varied. I am sorry I have been no help whatsoever.
  14. There is certainly German Shepherd and a little pit I think - but you already know from the dna what genes she has - does it really matter? Sorry but I never understand why people need to know what percentages of what dog there is in a mixed breed puppy. Love her for who she is. There is a healthy mix of different dogs/breeds in her that she should have no undesirable genes (unlike my 100% husky). You have a happy healthy pup who appears to be really enjoying life.
  15. Its difficult to tell without seeing the pup - can you take a picture? I got one of my boys at 12 weeks old - pale grey and white - I prayed he would stay like that - but he turned black on top of his back and head and pure white underneath. I have little to no experience but if there are solid patches of white then your pup could take after the mother.
  16. Welcome to the forum - Hope everything goes ok - please have a camera at the ready - we love pictures. I have only had male dogs all my life - so no experience of this wonderful (but worrying) time. Keeping everything crossed for you both.
  17. Obviously it is very difficult to try and find a reason/solution 'remotely' - but common causes are food intolerance/sensitivity/allergy and SIBO (small intestinal bacterial overgrowth. It is an unfortunate fact that prescription kibble diets of any kind tend to be poor quality - please let me know the exact make and type - preferably with a link to the product you are using. Kibble of any kind can be very hard on some dogs .................... I know to my cost - I have one dog that was fed kibble for around 6 weeks before coming to me - I switched him to raw immediately (he was 12 weeks old and I became his 4th owner) but he started to have similar (read almost identical) dietary issues a few months later. Long story short - 18 months later he went into anaphylactic shock, had bleeding stomach ulcers, had developed epilepsy and almost died. Even though he was raw fed - he had developed food allergies to wheat/corn/soya/oats/rice/potatoes/carrots/peas/sugar beet. 8 of the foods are high starch items - which break down to sugar in the body - and the last one is sugar. That 6 weeks on kibble had set in motion allergic reactions that will be with him for the rest of his life. He was reacting to what his dinner had eaten whilst it was alive (the saying "you are what you eat" is actually true). e.g. 'adult' chicken almost killed him - but he eats day old chicks with impunity (they are not fed prior to dispatch). Most kibbles are between 40-60% starch - look at the nutritional information on the back, add up all the % of the ingredients and take that figure from 100 - that is the percentage of carbohydrate/starch in your dogs food. In the wild wolves/wild dogs tend to eat around 4-5% starchy foods - and have enough pancreatic and digestive enzymes for that 4-5%. As I said earlier kibble can be 40-60% starch - this puts a tremendous strain on your dog's pancreas and other digestive organs. Once we discovered the food allergies I had to source meat that had never been fed anything he is allergic to - its not easy - and there is one food that is given to almost every commercially raised animal - including fish - and that is soya - his severest allergy. Soya is the one thing I cannot eliminate entirely. However with the change of diet his epilepsy slowed - then stopped - that was almost 4 years ago - on October 8th to be exact. I never allowed him to go on epilepsy medication during the three years he was fitting. Dogs can digest starch with the aid of a particular bacteria in the gut - Fermicutees - unfortunately this particular nasty bacteria also causes chronic inflammation, and crowds out the good gut bacteria that produces the essential nutrients and amino acids your dog needs. Dogs that are fed just one type of food day in and day out are far more likely to develop sensitivities to that food than a dog that eats a fresh and varied diet. Normally I would recommend changing to a completely novel diet/protein (and raw) - one that he has never had previously - but you have the additional problem that dogs fed a continual diet of kibble will not have stomach acid 'acidic enough' for raw food for an immediate change without potential reactions/tummy issues. Usually food/nutrition and an intolerance/allergy is one of the last things vets look for - it was in our vet's case - and my boy almost died before he would listen to me. Once we knew the severity of the problem my vet said that there was not a commercially made food on the planet that would not kill my dog sooner or later, - and it all started because he was fed kibble as a pup. The vet gave him a less than 10% chance of survival long term, and he was only 18 months old at the time. I had to research, study and qualify in dog food nutrition - both raw food and advanced canine nutrition in order to cope with my boy's allergies - I was around 68 years old at the time and gained the advanced qualification earlier this year at age 71. My boy is now approaching 7 as healthy as he has ever been. I have told you my/my boy's story so that you will realize I am not just 'a rabid raw feeder' who thinks it is the only way a dog should be fed (in truth I do, but now you know my reasons for thinking that way). Please send the link to the exact food your dog is on. ADMIN PLEASE DELETE THIS BIT IF NOT ALLOWED: I run a small facebook group called Food Allergies in Dogs - https://www.facebook.com/groups/foodallergiesindogs There is a LOT of nutritional information on there you may find useful.
  18. Can you tell me what you are feeding your dog? Kibble Tinned wet food Pouch wet food Home cooked fresh food Commercial raw food Raw - from scratch. Dehydrated Raw Is there any correlation between these bouts of tummy issues and a particular food / treat that may have been given in the previous 48 hours? The fact he is releasing a lot of gas strongly suggests an imbalance in the gut bacteria - and quite possibly an overgrowth of Fermicutees. Any 'accidents' because of runny poos? Please be a specific as you can about what he eats every day, and any treats he gets.
  19. OK I have just deleted everything I was going to say. I know nothing about a 'pomchi' but very often a mix of two breeds - can result in a dog with the worst traits of both breeds - so you need to really do your research on the breed characteristics of both parents. Also I think that paying hundreds of pounds for a cross-breed is a little daft - but then again its just my opinion. If your parents have money to waste - go for it. However there are thousands of dogs in shelters badly in need of a good home. My recommendation for a breed of dog for the first time owner - is a labrador. They are the most 'forgiving' of new dog owners. Actively want to please you (unlike a husky for example). Please do not consider a husky unless your parents are experienced dog owners. They can never be let off-lead unless in a secure park with at least 6ft fencing, are consummate escape artisits, do NOT want to please you, do tricks, be obedient, etc (unlike a labrador) - will constantly argue with you, and will outwit you constantly. Huskies do not like to be alone, get bored very easily - and a bored husky is something to be feared (i.e. watch out for your furniture).
  20. Welcome Emily, why not tell us all about your husky? What is his/her name? How Old? It looks like you have a thing for Harry Potter.
  21. Hubby has a walking belt - is over 6ft tall - and has still been pulled over many times by our two - I have been pulled over by just one boy - but I am only 5ft 4". Welcome to the world of huskies.
  22. We always take in rescues - but I don't feel qualified to answer your dilemma. Currently I have two huskies - one since a pup (4th owner) and the other taken in at 3 1/2 y.o. Both dogs are around 6.5 - 7 .5 years old now. The 'new' boy was an abuse case (another woman) and I have had issues with him since day one. First of all he would not come near me - then the first time he did and I tried to reassure him - he bit me. He still does not know how to 'play' with Marley, is far too aggressive so on constant watch whenever I hear them. Luckily Marley is totally non-reactive and tolerant - but not submissive - and I have had to break up a couple of fights when he pushed Marley too far. Marley has been injured a couple of times - Mikey is far bigger and stronger than Marley. Mikey will kill our cat as soon as he can - even the cat knows that - so we have gates to the kitchen, hallway, top of the stairs and hubby's office - where the cat's food and litter tray are. Mikey only has access to the lounge and kitchen (whole ground floor) our other dog has access to the whole house. It has been a very long process getting through to Mikey - he still flinches sometimes if I put my hand near his head a little quicker than he needs me to move - he still will not willingly be in the same room as me, if I go into the lounge and he is on the sofa, he gets up and walks out and stays in the kitchen, When Igo in the kitchen - he goes in the lounge or garden - (a girl could get a complex around him). For the first 18 months I could not disciplin him at all - I raised my voice the first time he went for Marley - and he stopped immediately, cowered down initially then raised himself up slightly - then snarled at me. Its rare for me to be frightened of a dog - but I was 'extremely concerned' by his reaction. It took the rescue centre nearly 2 weeks to tell us he was an abuse case. Once I was aware of the circumstances - I altered my behaviour/reactions accordingly - and started working on his trust issues - he was slow to forgive and trust again - but we are getting there. Like most huskies neither dog is fond of being told what to do - its better to try and gain their co-operation than obedience - well it works for us. You do not know what your dog has experienced in the past before coming to you - you are going to need patience .............. lots of it. Can you alter your mindset? Rather than try to be 'the boss' and get him to obey you, get him to trust you first. You will get next to nothing from him until he trusts and respects you. Once you have his trust - then the rest can follow slowly - but you must work at his pace .............. not expect him to work at yours, and your expectations. I thought I would have Mikey sorted in a year - its taken 3 but he now accepts females coming into the house, greets them enthusiastically - although at the vets he is only handled by men - and hubby takes him, not me. I am constantly aware of his complicated personality - and work around it - he will happily accept something one day - but the next day he will react totally differently to the same condition, and it puts him back weeks. Patience, Patience, Patience. Then for a boost - tolerance and even more patience.
  23. I am afraid no-one will click onto an unknown link. You could always copy and paste the information if you want other members to read it.
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