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Maz51 last won the day on November 6

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About Maz51

  • Rank
    Valued Contributor
  • Birthday 09/27/1951

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  • Real Name
    Marianne Cottee, nee Chambers, Mayes, (adopted) Mayhook (born Rasmussen)
  • Location
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  • Occupation
    Retired: Theatre Nurse; Med/PA secretary; nearly 10 years as VR in Sea and Air Cadets;
  • Biography
    Born Denmark. Two siblings - recently discovered via DNA that we all have different fathers! both parents now passed. (I found at 58yrs five months after father's demise that I was adopted by him from children's home (born out of wedlock)aged nearly 4)and sister's father was also mine but...DNA genetic testing via 123andMe.com shot that down last year. NO worries - they were amazing parents.
    My husband looked at my striken face saying - 'You're not the woman I thought you were!' ROFL.... then
    Schooled in Oz. Grew up on a farm with eccentric mum/pioneer who introduced 5,000 new chicken stock into North Borneo.
    We also rescued several hundred dogs, cats - kittens & puppies out there and looked after orang-utans (48 over 8 years) otters, anteaters, mousedeer, gibbons, macaques, parrots, heron, African Grey, rats and bats (my pets) slow lorris', horse (retired young racehorse from Ireland/Singapore, rescued circus pony and other unusual animals. Rescued baby crocs from the pot too.
    Moved house 38 times.
    Moved to UK Dec 1969.
    School Ed. ended at 13.
    Nursing studies 1972-76 and Post grad nursing course in Theatre at Charing Cross following six months night duties at Guy's.
    Since then I studied and worked and hold about 8 'A' levels through my nursing, VR work (received my Diamond Jubilee medal)and private studies incl RSA course in Secretarial studies at Bracknell College and an Anaesthetic/Theatre perioperative practitioner (all rounder) Refresher Course at UWE.
    I hold Car, Motorbike and Coach licences. Also via VR Sea Cadets: RYA Day Skipper, Power Boat and safety certs, ME II, FAW Instr & Assessor (within MS-SC, music - snare drum and brass.
    Many varied jobs incl coach driving between divorces... No. 3 is brill. No 1 set precedence in divorce law lol - Mayes vs Mayes '83/'84 - was mentally ill. Has two grown children with whom I am still in touch albeit twice a year.
    Three kids - Daughter (32)is in top of DnB DJ - 'Missrepresent' - sadly we don't talk much - she is manic depressive like her father but I love her and am very proud of her.
    Two sons from No 2 - now 22 and 24 both settling with lovely girlfriends and in decent jobs - design engineering machinery. Also staying close by for extra cupboard food!!
    They get on very well with my Dave.
    Their father and step mum near too but not 'close' in true sense however loyal - and they have a younger half brother.
    You will see my background on dogs - via my WHW breeding etc...on forum posts.
    I mean well but know I can come across quite strong & opinionated - a chip off my mother's block!! Very determined strong woman.
  • Interests
    Brass Band. Musher, Cruiser & caravan camper.

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  1. Hopefully it will wear off.. make sure he is clipped in, off his harness, not his collar, in the boot (if an estate), or on a seat belt so he's safe and contained. You might try him with his own blanket or bed too for a familiar smell in there. πŸ€— Is he happy, or barking, crying, howling? Is he ok to go in? Can you video him? There are many definitions to 'crazy' lol
  2. What a gorgeous pup. The best thing to introduce them into a crate that is that the size that will fit them when they are fully grown from nose to base of tail; and the one way to do it is once they've got their bedding in or something not too chewable is to get them in by throwing a treat through the open door ..let them go and pick it up; as soon as they bend to pick it up to eat shut the door quietly (slamming it is not going to help at all) and repeat this for a few times and then gradually start lengthening the time in, with that door shut and give them praise & give them a treat and then let them out ... don't let them stay in long enough to then start whining and scratching because when you do let them out that would be a cue to them to say "hey if I make a fuss I can get out" - you want them to remain quiet with the words of praise and a little treat through the crate; make sure the crate's in an area they can see you from, when you do start closing the door for longer periods, say, working around the house popping out the back to the bin coming back in ... so they can see you and know you're aroun. I always have the radio on as well and I cover the top 2/3 of my crate and ... for my two it is an extra extra large one as mine are husky X malamutes and they both go into this when required but otherwise one sleeps in, one sleeps out, decided at night with them; the crate or the bed by airing cupboard door beside them & sitting room door (closed) behind, so there is a niche there in the corner. It's slow but look at successdogs.com - he recommends this kind of training for an introduction my aren't kept locked up indoors, if I go out; they have 24/7 access out to a secure rear run and shelters and they use the crate alternatively during the day if they want to snooze and rest or sleep on the runner in the kitchen as the crate is in the inner hall atrium (bungalow). πŸ€—
  3. You're lucky to do those distances as With my neck issue (degenerative spondylosis or, crumbling bones), wrecked knees (Anterior CLs, & sides) and now my Rt hip, but I can manage up to five miles with rests, and usually do between 2 to 3 and, if I'm really bad, I take them out on my mobility scooter which they"re goid to run beside ne each side! off my canibelt. I can easily do five or more miles however do need to build up their stamina. It's great fun.. too. Yes a lifeline to your canibelt, but whichever side they may 'dart' to (if prey drive kicks in), dictates whether you get pulled over and can stop, or even steer to, or dragged over. πŸ€— Really work on gee, haw, here! (To come back to you asap and sit), Ease up!/Easy! .. Wait! (when approaching a curb, or multichoice turn), Walk on, Straight on, On on! On on! (to keep going regardless) about turn -gee/haw (180Β° turn). In early training, do praise and treat when able; I carry a waist treat bag. And always bring water for them. BTW it is advised to give four hours respite after food before heavy exercise . Nor feed within an hour after. Bloating can kill. They'll drink what they need, however encourage them to have a break, and or at least not drink a huge amount. If setting off again, let their breathing settle enough to catch their second wind. I start with 200 yard sprints, rest then return a bit slower. Increase after three days and so on. Athletes are advised to rest alternate days in training, so do this too re runs, but walk out instead in between. I don't do longer than 1 mile runs, each way as thisis thecmax length I have on a friendly farmer's land. Running on mixed surfaces of (brief) tarmac, concrete, plus packed earth / gravel, mud and grass will toughen up their pads. Booties can & do protect them, not keep them warm especially in cutting ice conditions. They can get ice burns & grazes, so check pads, ... and your tack regularly, keep clean/rinsed through, re stitching and tearing.
  4. It's often called 'the suicide line'! You can get some nylon rope tie a figure of 8 stop knot onto his collar, or, harness through a 'D' ring and this goes back to you around your chest (some say they tie it to their left arm but if you want a dislocated arm/shoulder I wouldn't!) And I have come off, but refused to let go of the handlebars! Yelling Whoah! Wait! also worked! I have another line that runs to a bag in front of me to grab and remove to wrap around a tree ( attached to the rig to hold the difs in place should I need to, to then step off my three wheel rig. When standing on with disc brakes and on, it is quite hard fir my two to really pull me away... but not if I step off it! Unless a buddy can hold them. Elbow & Knee pads/protectors night be useful too. Mine can kick off & hit nearly 30mph then settle to between 8 to 12 to 18mph depending on terrain & levels You want strong legs to help them move on rough ground, mud etc so good grip footwear too on feet - maybe high ankle ones to protect against twisted ankles!walking a lot with them helps get them fitter, and you! Yoy'll be surprised how fast you can get tired pyshingto fet them through boggy ground and a goid musher always helps their digs, even getting off and running with rig or scooter or bike; takes some practice get back on board too! Good gloves to grip with, but also to avoid scraped flesh! Serious racers may wear lycra, but I'm all for warmth, and all over protection! Lol. Locking carabiners /a swivel one if you don't want a twisted line. πŸ€—
  5. If you go to Snowpaws or Hooners or any other husky related site for joring - bike, scooter or rig/parts accessories, you can buy single or 2 or 3 or 4 or more dog-line leads for pulling a rig or a scooter or, hooking up.. to a bike; and they will best advise you what you need, to hitch up, what is safe, for you and your dog. Do you make sure you have a secondary safety line or rope from dog to you. I would also not go out at all on your own; if you came off or hurt yourself, or something happens to your furkid, you need somebody there to pick you up and get you home and sort the dog out as well so please be very careful where you run. I'm not sure which part of the country you're in but you need to also make sure that you are not breaking any bylaws of the Council .. public pavements are out and not good for the joints on the dog anyway... public footpaths may be ok but I will get landowners permission if you are near a farm or anywhere in private property, and you need to be really extra careful with a livestock stock around particularly. Get good strong bungee cord depending what your dog is. The smaller Siberians don't need as big shock bungee cord as I have for my two husky malamute because they are just over 12 Stone combined and they also pull a three-wheel running rig, but I do have a poor Pawtrekker scooter; there is another gadget you can get call the Tug and Tow and if you google this and search for it you may be able to find it - not very cheap but it has a retractable line on a spring and then you're not having to worry about the lead dropping and winding roubd your rig, or running over it so yeah there are choices but do look around and ask more on other husky sites too especially the running ones and the sports husky running ones I think Anyway.. good luck! Also - check out insurance cover because your normal pet insurance does not cover you or dog, in rig running.. and you'll only get Third Party cover; in the unfortunate event that you or your dog and rig, bike or scooter end up hurting somebody else. In the event it is somebody else's fault I would certainly advise you get a pro-cam camera that you wear either on your helmet (very wise to have protective gear on) a harness on your body in front so you can also have a cover to argue your case if it isn't your fault .. should anything happen this is really important I've I've learnt that from reading lots of other people's posts and even walking out the dog a lot of people now have a camera or something to log it, and witness if another dog coming out to attack your dog or in the event their dog is off lead and yours isn't.. there's lots of things that you need to watch out for with huskies because they are generally very friendly but they can also become quite aggressive and defensive aggressive in the event of any other dog coming round to them. The Forest of Dean by the way, also have running days and tracks.. but you need a permit however I believe (because I've waited over 5 years for a permit) ... if you can find someone already in.. to go as their guest then you can have a go at doing some 'fun runs' and with friends. I spent a year walking my dogs out in harness on a canibelt while I saved for my 3wheel rig, and taught them indoors - spinning Gee and Haw but also re teaching them the word 'leave' to 'On by ' and to pass or overtake with 'Go by' ... there are other commands they've learned to 'ease up' and stop 'Whoa!' or 'wait'. And I've just about mastered a 180 degree turn to reverse direction and retrace... there's a lot to do, you've got the one dog - you can teach from Successdogs.com. It also teaches you how to get the spin right doing it indoors first. I would certainly suggest you have a look at that site because it proved very very useful for me! [emoji847] Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
  6. Yep.. gradual lengthening times of absence...better if whilst in a crate (so safe) with soft /fav toys and an article with your scent on, but.. where they can begin to see you from, if you're in the kitchen. I have a radio on all day on low on BBC 2 altho' classic is soothing for them. Here's what I did with mine - going out in the car.. as I think GETTING out as much as you can is also very good, to desensitise them in a town/busy environment, including around ither dogs too... and, I cannot emphasise how important all/any training is vital NOW ..with this highly intelligent breed... Hope this is ok.. just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA.... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. πŸ˜‰πŸ˜ This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home), winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions from my being out of sight too! Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. and, you can also see them. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say OK .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've grabbed their leads! (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). [ALL pets must be either secured or in a fitted & secured crate inside a vehicle.] Several thousand pound fine possible. I also use 'Wait' on walks; every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait' ! Xxx. πŸ€—πŸ˜˜
  7. I"m in Tewkesbury. I use nowt simply because I have northern friends too, & pick up all sorts!. My dad loved Noel Coward and he'd use 'shewn' not 'shown' .. eg.. πŸ€— I was born in Denmark, grew up in Malaya, Brunei, Canada, Borneo - moved home 38 times.... 😊 not military.
  8. What fabulous advice and, echoing mine too! Also, ... A covered crate (top two-thirds but open front) in her chosen corner will provide a 'den' and more security for her. Keep the door open. You can start training her later to accept being in when & if you need her safe, or to keep away/out of dog-shy visitors or workmen's way. Look at Successdogs.com and, Absolutedogs.com Both have awesome positive reward training tips that create a funbased teaching for you and your beautiful furkid. Later, but try some out. You never know, esp once you've sussed what food she likes! (I feed Xcel 32% kibble (for weaning pups thru to adults plus for nursing mums), Forthglade, Lovejoy, (these are vacpacked part raw & store on the shelf, so great for hols, camping, travelling). They have duck, turkey, beef, lamb, chicken, fish, seafood, with or w/o rice, vegetables - huge selections). Albion comes frozen raw, in chicken or beef or with tripe. My Animals Only shop orders in all this & my Xcel specially for me, as I require. I support my local shops as much as possible. I also get dark natural gravy bone & marrow bone treats, dried chicken feet, turkey feet, an occasional good chew, and raw bones two to three times a week - free from Maces, my butcher in town. They also have raw eggs with crushed in shells (extra calcium), coconut oil, ACV. Don't feed raw bones until second teeth are established as they could crack their milk teeth, so wait till eight months. Bigger bones keep them busier and to chew more slowly. Antler/deer horns are very hard & last ages, so not until min. eight months to a year... but pricey too. Frozen carrots are fab for teething. Good quality bigger rope toys are also great for fun tug games and a chew, and strong play balls.. (Mighty Mutt brand) that can be treat filled with broken treats and peanut butter (check NO Xylitol in this as lethal), as can Kongs, to keep them occupied. A smear of Marmite inside too is much loved! I have several videos from these training sites, and have learned much more in the 'Lure, capture, reward' ethos (from Successdogs) but also some very good 'games' that are actually excellent teaching games in automatic 'good dog/watching me' games - I love the 'off leash - game on' series from Absolutedogs. Creating trust in them to you is as important as your trust in them. It is always a two-way deal. Show nowt but kindness and patience, however 'ignoring' them to the point of not showing any acknowledgement TO them is also important. They are companions more than a pet, this unique breed. She will want to be closer, not isolated but it's her move. (1925 Nome Valley Mercy Run : research). (Read Monty Roberts 'Equus' on readjng animal body language. I learned a huge amount just from this book alone. HM also now uses his MO for all her horses and had him at Windsor Castle to show his training MO to Terry Pendry (cousin to me by marriage then), who was/is I/C of HM Windsor Stables. Monty not only changed & turned upside down the 'breaking in' of horses, but fostered hundreds of children, and even had his own 'tamed' deer on his Flagsup Farm. His poor wife repeatedly had her flower borders pulled out by them but they waited only for him when he was away. To start getting these very timid shy beings to accept his touch, he would leave an recently well worn used shirt in a branch off a tree near the house when he left. They left his wife's plants alone, and stayed by his shirt! I was fortunate to meet Monty Roberts with my daughter, who was at Hartpury then, doing Equine husbandry, when he first visited the UK. Read the book.. learning to 'read' animal body language starts here, and watch the eyes.. they say so much! When mine look at me, the sofa space, the treat box, (and dancing in circles left spins & right spins, or looking at me from the bed end, to the space by me! They know to wait and 'ask'. If I say quietly 'ok' they're allowed on. If I say quietly 'away down' or 'no, lie down' they huff, sigh and lie down on the floor. If Chester jumps up w/o asking he is immediately firmly told 'Off!' until he gets off, sometimes with a push. If he resists too long, then he's told 'Out' of the room for a while! Rejection to 'bad behaviour' teaches them very fast and having to leave/going out of, or being clipped on to a lead and walked out (no words) to solitary confinement for several minutes, really does teach all furkids that ANY undesirable behaviour creates rejection; πŸ€— they hate it. Equus.. brilliant book.
  9. At one year he's possibly beginning to feel some anxiety as these woofs prefer companionship to just being a pet. Where do your other woofs sleep? My two huskyxmals slerp outside our door in the inner hall (bungalow). They do join me on the bed , on a throw, when David goes to work. And if he's away, then the door stays open xx Is it SA ?
  10. Hi Pretty furkid! Hope this helps. (I can't get hold of Goats milk easily, however Kefir ('kah-fear') is a β–  Polish {dairy} yoghurt and actually breaks down lactose intolerance. β– Available in larger Tescos and now reaching more stores. Important (altho' not new) findings were broadcast in a Morning Radio and TV show. https://www.snowdog.guru/snow-dog-appropriate-diet/ https://draxe.com/goat-milk/ https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/313024649516416/ https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/313024649516416/ Fermented Goat Milk Promotes Good Health. Goat milk contains vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, trace elements, enzymes, protein, and fatty acids. ... Having fat molecules one-fifth the size of those in cow's milk makes it easily digestible and tolerable even for dogswith digestive issues. Goat Milk For Dogs - Dogs Naturally ... https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com β€Ί ... Kefir C.O. & ACV Try: - A tspn of Kefir (morning and evening); can settle their tum and gut and get some good bacteria growing. Can aid to reducing lactose intolerance. Goat Kefir is even better. There is no Caseinβ˜† in this or in sheep's milk. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/so-long-yeast-hello-kefir/ https://www.culturedfoodlife.com/7-reasons-to-make-goat-milk-kefir/ https://www.nourishingplot.com/2016/01/13/microbiology-studies-show-the-difference-between-store-kefir-and-home-brewed-kefir/ https://draxe.com/kefir-benefits/ Coconut oil.. pea size starter only - gradually increase * up to one tspn/10 lbs dog's weight *start 1/4 tspn first/peasize. http://www.dogingtonpost.com/benefits-of-coconut-oil-for-dogs/ https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/top-10-evidence-based-health-benefits-of-coconut-oil http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/the-health-benefits-of-coconut-oil/ ● *But don't over dose this Vitamin D content..... https://m.petmd.com/dog/nutrition/coconut-oil-dogs-understanding-benefits-and-risks https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/coconut-oil-for-dogs#section1 http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/ten-reasons-to-add-coconut-oil-to-your-dogs-diet ACV - start half tspn.. http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/3-simple-ways-apple-cider-vinegar-can-help-your-dog/ Kefir Nutrition Fact (for Humans too) MINERALS – Nutrient Value – % of RDA Serving Size: 175g Calcium 210 mg 21% Magnesium 21 mg 5% Phosphorus 175 mg 20% Riboflavin 0.3 mg 19% Iron 0.18 mg 1% Calcium 210 mg 21% Potassium 263 mg Copper 0.02 mg Zinc 0.63 mg
  11. Better to clip on lead & walk out of the room putting them into an isolated room for a few minutes, and/or until they are quiet. No words, no smacking or shouting, just 'the silent treatment', and no harsh or painful tugging, just quietly & firmly walk them out. Bring them back in. Repeat if same behaviour occurs. WHEN they stop biting, nibbling, or behaving in ANY undesirable manner, reward instantly with 'Good dog! Be nice!' And a small treat within three seconds. They are highly intelligent and one or two isolations per 'bad behaviour' is usually enough to teach them. Remain quiet and otherwise non responsive - do not create shock or fear or hurt.. as defensive aggressive behaviour will come out eventually. Positive reward training all the way. Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com Praise the good. Ignore the bad however 'react' with quiet removal/isolation. πŸ€—
  12. Good advice! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
  13. No no no xxx Apart from the fact she's really far too young to leave her mum, you need to nurture & protect her. I would seriously check just why the mum rejected them.. and how old is mum?! Was this her first litter? Have you seen her papers, and asked for any health checks ref inheritable traits? I won't rant on.. because she desperately needs loving. A little pup this young needs 5-7 meals a day and more nutritious wet than solids but ask on Husky forums too.. Goats milk is more suitable than dairy - again research on reputable dog/veterinary sites. Clean paper down, for house training, but if crated, or nursery penned, keep one half papered, one half with bedding; old towels, to turn around keeping scrupulously clean and maybe a wrapped hot water bottle for warmth and a soft toy to cuddle up to. . If she's biting just move her away and hold firmly. A gentle tap on the nose with a No won't go amiss but the rejection will help her understand that that behaviour is not acceptable. When she's bigger, isolation into another room for several minutes, (no words, just clip on to lead and walk her out). Bring her back in and when she's good praise and reward with a small tasty treat. Successdogs.com shows you so much for good behaviour and positive reward training. She would do this to her siblings and if it got too rough Mum would intervene by separating them. You can potty train by stimulating her genitals in a stroking motion with a soft tissue and also, (as mum would while still nursing); when she's bigger, you can put her out on the grass outside but supervise and bring in when done. Also she will need worming regularly and should be microchipped ... and checked over at your vet. Obviously innoculations will be needed too, and your vet will advise. Lots of loving and gentle handling with a routine ref feeds every four hours minimum to eight weeks then at least 5-6 times a day from 0500 through to 23:00hrs but if she cries you'll need to seek something a little more substantial at 23:00 hours to get her through the night. I used to feed mine soaked weatabix but I'm told this is not right. Never hurt my Westie pups though! However : Soaked Xcel 32% protein (Red Mills brand) is perfect for nursing mums, weaning pups through into adulthood. It is wheat, gluten & grain free (corn maize is good!) and mine two HuskyxMals have and are still fed on this. You can order online. A guideline is : overall daily portion/s ref their adult predicted weight, spread over several meals a day. A teaspoonn of Kefir keeps their gut healthy, and a teaspoon ACV diluted into their water bowl keeps their immune system healthy too. Ask google ref benefits too on these, plus a peasize dab of coconut oil. A raw egg won't hurt and let them chew the shells too - extra calcium! No bones or rawhide. Frozen carrots are great for teething & treats. Research wrong food for huskies /dogs. Many are toxic, incl plant bulbs/roots. Raw Bones, after their second teeth come after six months, but never unsupervised & remove all splinter bones. Large good quality rope toys are better than cheap stringy ines - these can be lethal. πŸ€— Remove uneaten food. Clean bowls daily & fresh water always.

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