Jump to content

Maz51

Sponsors+
  • Content Count

    1,314
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Maz51 last won the day on November 6 2018

Maz51 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

533 A Name To All

About Maz51

  • Rank
    Valued Contributor
  • Birthday 09/27/1951

Profile Information

  • Real Name
    Marianne Cottee, nee Chambers, Mayes, (adopted) Mayhook (born Rasmussen)
  • Location
    Tewkesbury
  • Country Flag
    England
  • Occupation
    Retired: Theatre Nurse; Med/PA secretary; nearly 10 years as VR in Sea and Air Cadets;
  • Biography
    Born Denmark. Two siblings - recently discovered via DNA that we all have different fathers! both parents now passed. (I found at 58yrs five months after father's demise that I was adopted by him from children's home (born out of wedlock)aged nearly 4)and sister's father was also mine but...DNA genetic testing via 123andMe.com shot that down last year. NO worries - they were amazing parents.
    My husband looked at my striken face saying - 'You're not the woman I thought you were!' ROFL.... then
    Schooled in Oz. Grew up on a farm with eccentric mum/pioneer who introduced 5,000 new chicken stock into North Borneo.
    We also rescued several hundred dogs, cats - kittens & puppies out there and looked after orang-utans (48 over 8 years) otters, anteaters, mousedeer, gibbons, macaques, parrots, heron, African Grey, rats and bats (my pets) slow lorris', horse (retired young racehorse from Ireland/Singapore, rescued circus pony and other unusual animals. Rescued baby crocs from the pot too.
    Moved house 38 times.
    Moved to UK Dec 1969.
    School Ed. ended at 13.
    Nursing studies 1972-76 and Post grad nursing course in Theatre at Charing Cross following six months night duties at Guy's.
    Since then I studied and worked and hold about 8 'A' levels through my nursing, VR work (received my Diamond Jubilee medal)and private studies incl RSA course in Secretarial studies at Bracknell College and an Anaesthetic/Theatre perioperative practitioner (all rounder) Refresher Course at UWE.
    I hold Car, Motorbike and Coach licences. Also via VR Sea Cadets: RYA Day Skipper, Power Boat and safety certs, ME II, FAW Instr & Assessor (within MS-SC, music - snare drum and brass.
    Many varied jobs incl coach driving between divorces... No. 3 is brill. No 1 set precedence in divorce law lol - Mayes vs Mayes '83/'84 - was mentally ill. Has two grown children with whom I am still in touch albeit twice a year.
    Three kids - Daughter (32)is in top of DnB DJ - 'Missrepresent' - sadly we don't talk much - she is manic depressive like her father but I love her and am very proud of her.
    Two sons from No 2 - now 22 and 24 both settling with lovely girlfriends and in decent jobs - design engineering machinery. Also staying close by for extra cupboard food!!
    They get on very well with my Dave.
    Their father and step mum near too but not 'close' in true sense however loyal - and they have a younger half brother.
    You will see my background on dogs - via my WHW breeding etc...on forum posts.
    I mean well but know I can come across quite strong & opinionated - a chip off my mother's block!! Very determined strong woman.
  • Interests
    Brass Band. Musher, Cruiser & caravan camper.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,376 profile views
  1. Hi & Welcome to this awesome group. My rescue/rehome girl came with +food guarding, alot, plus possessiveness, and jealousy.Seriously. I used basket muzzles in early training to avoid injuries, but I could also reward GOOD behaviour through these via the side. They all learned to take treats introduced through the side. All of these traits went to lack of proper training from a pup, growing up around other similar (untrained) minded dogs, and possibly ?SA and/or insecurity. I started training when I got her. She was two and a half years old, two weeks post spay, and wearing a cone. My boy Chester had come at nine weeks, and was just a few days' shy of his second birthday. As he kept 'jumping' her, he went in to be neutered, too, three days after Eski came, so both were in cones. I had the free E-Book downloaded from Successdogs.com and started with Sit, on both, with a small treat visible in each hand. (They are both food oriented). ● Rewarding within three seconds IS IMPORTANT. (It takes 30 repetitions to get a new command 'IN' and repeat it several times, daily). A treat for every good response. Ignore the bad, praise the good, incl this verbally, &/or with a clicker. Just keep asking quietly, (and using a hand signal) until they get it, and praise verbally when they get it right : "Yes! Good dog! Sit" or, whatever you asked. From Sit, we progressed to Down. From here, try the "Middle" game (on my fb timeline), from Absolutedogs.com I also did the hiding treat under foot... (successdogs.com) which gets them to focus ON you (eyeball to eyeball), not the treat on the floor. This now works on both. My boy is much more keen to play, learn and earn a reward, my girl is lazy. She's learned much through copy-catting, (however, KNOWS very well when she's done wrong, (ie, chewed up stuff ready to go round to the back bin/s), and shows absolute submissive and (comical) apologetic actions!) And she knoes I know she knows what to NOT do. She's very argumentative and vocal - well, Chester is too when I come home, & foster boy Blu (came Nov 25/2018) is now 17 months, nearly 18 months is just finding HIS voice. He has the most to learn, coming from one owner, increasing day hours in a 12' x 6' kennel and no polite respecting of pack etiquette, or around more than one hooman! Blu has a basically sound, sweet nature, however is over bouncy with excitement and learning hard and fast rules - which started* the night he came home. I also worked on 'Leave it!' with them, separately. Then 'Give' ie, to let go of a toy in exchange for a treat/ reward (work on this separately first) then with another furkid if you have them. Leave & Wait : (start with a three second 'Wait!') and slowly, day by day with the multi-repititions same day, increase the wait time each day. ● [ Wait! Is also vital when exiting the car, giving you time to unclip from in-car restraint, (UK 2014 law ref transporting all animals in your vehicle) and get your leads together/hooked on to canibelt. Also prevents escape, or running into traffic! ] From there, 'Bed, Time out', important if their behaviour is undesirable; this also means rejection - in the relevant situations. NOT meant when 'Bed' command is given, (to have them safely out of the way, into their crate). Again, crate training is on successdogs. Crate use is really important if you need your dog/s out of the way for visiting workmen, utility repairmen, dog shy visitors, and little humans and, infants FOR SAFETY and convenience. I reward mine through their crates, when they go in for this reason, and praise too "Good dogs, bed!" The "Bed, Time-out!" means rejection; ie, 'I don't want you here doing what you are doing!' However, to do this, YOU walk them on a lead OUT of the room to their crate, OR into a separate room, into isolation, & shut the door. All mine know that's for good reason, and know it is my 'rejection' of them due to their bad behaviour - ie, no treat when put into crate immediately the bad behaviour happens). Leave in for three to five minutes. Then bring them back out. If they repeat (any) undesirable behaviour, (You can say "No" and (silently) clip on lead and walk them back out again. WHEN they return, and ARE being 'nice and good', praise enthusiastically, AND reward "Good dog! Be Nice!" You both - ie, couples - need to work together on this, so they grasp where their place is in the family human pack. Young children can learn a lot just watching, as can other furkids in what you do. Older children need supervision if getting involved re training as positive reward training MUST be used always and only. [[ Shouting or striking -> fear. Fear -> defence -> aggression -> a snap, or worse, a bite, and, ultimately an attack if a strike (for a scolded action is given) and, human body /verbal language also triggers fear. ]] It won't all happen immediately re the behaviour you seek. If they get it wrong, or don't get it, go back to basics. It's not their fault. It is yours. 😐 You need TIME, patience, perseverance and planning (ahead) to achieve all these. Go to my timeline (videos) (some appear now to be mis-named, however you'll find my earlier and later ones showing how I worked. I use mushing terms when out walking, plus "Here" frequently to get them to refocus on me and turn round, come & sit in front, Sit &/or Down, or Paw on my lifted knee for a treat. Especially if I see another dog in the vicinity. Most folk cross the road, or, I move off the path if I can, to increase distance. When I can't walk out due to discomfort/pain in my neck, (severe crumbling bones to wear & tear) I resort to my mobility scooter. They've learned to keep paws away from front/rear wheels, and they stay on my canibelt approx level with the front, altho' I can bring them back parallel to me, or, they move behind, (command: 'Whoa, Wait') to let me through narrower spaces first. I can cover much longer distances with them, on this, and at varying speeds. Tires them out beautifully! Look at Absolutedogs.com too. Good luck! πŸ€—
  2. You're welcome! I trained my two to spin by following biscuit/treat in front of their nose.. first Gee - round to the right, over and over over during one week. Then Haw - round to the left. Then I could just move my hand in the direction, then a finger flick, or shoulder gesture, now just a word. I walked them out on a two dog gang-line, getting them to 'Ease up, Whoa! Walk on. Hup Hup Hup! Gee gee gee' (in advance just before they reach a divide in the path, or 'Haw Haw Haw!' and 'Good dogs!' when they respond. Vicki suggested I swap their positions around simply to run differently, however Chester prefers to be on the right of Eski and he'll push her over for a Haw command if she doesn't turn. She's a lazy learner but, has proven she's perfectly capable and can follow commands, but Chester is definitely my lead dog. On by, (Ignore! Leave!) Go by (Go past or, overtake). Wait! (stop, wait) (Just remember, and it takes min 30 repetitions to get training INTO this breed, and they really can learn quite fast. I still use all these commands on general walks and trained them initially on walks out, in harness off my canibelt... for nearly ten months whilst saving up for my Bruce Hall rig. It really was worth it. My first run booked at Vicki's was fabulous! She was very impressed how well THEY ran for her, before I did. Sadly, I haven't run for two years as I busted my knee 2016, and then my friend couldn't come out with me - you need a buddy, from a safety point... as it's just not wise to run on your own. I really hope to get out again soon, and, give my foster boy Blu, a chance to run too, beside Chester. Training & running... An extra non-slip collar on your dogs should be connected via neck lines to the line / lead, plus necklines from collar to harness. Basically, envisage any one item of tack on your dog, breaking and coming off; think, what else can you 'connect to', thus ensuring you always have a 'connection' so you cannot lose them! and when running, it may also mean a spare link/lead/line to you. Check your gear regularly, and ensure your locking carabiners ARE locked off. Washing harnesses and lines inside old pillow cases, helps stop them getting over tangled. Always rinse thoroughly after immersion in dirty water, or any, especially salt water, and, brass fitted clips are better than steel, (which can & do snap or break in extreme cold weather), however steel locking carabiners are fine. Safety gear, helmet, elbo/knee pads and strong thick gloves (I found some suade - like waterproof work gloves from Aldi), and I know these do protect my hands should I fall off! Sensible foot gear obviously, and elbow & knee pads may not be practical for actually running, lol. Good luck! And be safe. PS. I also have DogTrac.com tags on my dogs.. plus an ID tag on their collars, engraved fixed ID (with my contact details) info tags ON the second collar and of course they're all microchipped. Google DogTrac.com πŸ€—πŸ˜Ž
  3. Glad to help wherever.πŸ€— Booties good to protect, not provide warmth, but the varied training ground/surfaces will toughen their pads. Vicki's dogs have far less issues in the winter racing abroad compared to many local dogs, which confuses the hell out of her bigger competition. She swears the mix of mud, (hard slog), water, grass, packed earth, some tarmac, gravel, concrete on her training grounds goes hugely to really toughening her dog's pads. If there's 'cutting' ice then booties protect, and are certainly good over an injury, if there's an open wound however your discretion to not run is paramount to allow rest and healing if exercise delays this. Beware of stagnant water & by rivers - be aware of Alabama Rot. Rinse /hose down feet after and dry carefully, checking for any nicks/scratches, punctures or spring seeds getting in deep between toes. Xx 1 of 3 - Husky facts... I love sharing info so bear with me... πŸ€£πŸ˜ƒ I keep this on my memo pad.. β€’ Sizes - From smaller Siberian - fleet and light of foot and ability to cool down body heat on long distance runs and cope better over new fallen snow. β€’ The heavier Malamute has a much bigger body mass so cooling down takes longer. These are the power dogs used in big teams hauling freight - a team of 18 can and do .. collect and haul back empty oil barrels discarded by oil companies - at a steady 8mph to even 18mph. β€’ Head - brain - truly incredibly - wide head with acute intelligence and very quick to learn with sensitive & patient teaching. ● Digestion - still not fully understood HOW their metabolism digestion has a 'switch' that converts stored body fat into energy for longer periods running w/o food than any other canine breed. In days of old, mushers fed only (β˜†blubber/seal fat) + frozen or raw fish, to their teams & carried this on longer excursions between the 100's of miles separated villages. They were fed on alternate days too. (Practised by some today on raw feed regimΓ¨, & huskies can cope too), but not pups. Necessary nutrients/ minerals still need to be considered as Huskies back then also foraged on roots/plants, fish. This β˜†feed regime is no longer used nor could it be tolerated in our domesticated huskies now. http://siberianhuskyclub.org.uk/health/ https://books.google.co.uk/boo...ber teams of old&f=false ● Their coat colouring varies throughout the many different demographic breed types incl more 'wooly types. ● Ears - acute hearing - more so than your average woof or any other. ●Eyes - Almond shape : allows them to squint in blizzards, whiteout conditions to still see. Excellent long distance vision. ● Nose - dries up so it can't freeze in sub Zero temps. Much higher scent accuity then GSD's/others, & used too by Police in drug searches. ● Muzzle - in white out blizzards where the musher cannot see anything on frozen lakes - they can sense/feel higher temps especially where the ice is thinner... and divert around (research 1925 Nome village run). β€’ Belly - all furry so no freezing nipples- their positions are hilarious - to cool off faster! ● Coat - https://www.snowdog.guru/groom-husky/ https://www.snowdog.guru/never-shave-a-husky/ ● NEVER SHAVE A HUSKY. Coat has a two fold purpose: top coat longer guard hairs protect against adverse weather - in ALL temps minus low or plus high including sunburn! It can collect snow/frost on it but repel water too - up to a point; some don't like water. Maybe they fear freezing (gene memory?) ● 'Eiderdown' (and second) undercoat : 'blows' due to surround & conditions - (in those outdoor nomadic dogs with or without a travelling tribe, they will only 'blow' if temps change &/or food times are good). β–ͺGrooming regularly is important - mine go to a knowledgeable groomer at end of second week of a blow usually bi-annually as it's then established & comfortable for them to be 'plucked'/ raked / blown /blasted then shampooed and blow dried. Anything that CUTS the hair is not advised (e.g. furminator - quite some controversy over this !) Dbl toothed rake, pin cushion retractable brush best. A Dog Groom Tool attachable to vacuum is great if introduced early on or even through positive reward to accept this (incl crate, appliances and new stuff!) β–  Huskies are in a group of about seven breeds that "self clean" beautifully, so batheing is not necessary unless they've rolled in something unmentionable or not olfactorily tolerable! 🀣 Because they shed constantly, dirty hair discards faster. Wipe down with a wet sponge and wipe dry then rub dry or blow dry. ● Groom through thoroughly to ensure creases are fully dried out ... as damp matted fur patches can lead to bacterial 'hotspots' forming very quickly, causing scratching, crusty smelly sores & a costly vet visit. (Shaving & exposing these areas dries them out faster, Leucillin spray has been reported as good to use, or ACV - good to dab on, and when crusty coconut oil - antibacterial/antifungal) ... The small damp top area of a hotspot belies the much bigger area affected under so shaving to expose the fully affected area is the only way to let it dry out and apply a mild steroid cream &/or oral meds. Cone on dog to stop them scratching/licking. Fur grows back in approx 2 months... πŸ˜πŸ€— Cont .. 2 of 3 ... Husky facts... ●Leg circulation - blood temps regulated so the blood does not go to the core (like ours then causing frostbite) or hypothermia, but stays at 2Β°C so no freezing up on those long distance race/or runs. Booties are used to prevent injuries on Rocky ground or packed/cutting ice). They are worn to protect not warm. However : NB : frostbite can & does occur in the sickly, injured or because of skin pawpad breaks (eg, from skid burns) in skin incl those in weather (but not) weather acclimatised domestic huskies. url=http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky] http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky[/url] https://www.huskyhouse.org/husky/ ... Cont 3 of 3 3 of 3 Husky Facts cont .... ●Tail - the beautiful 'Swish' curl allows them to curl up in snow and breathe in warm air blown out with tail over nose/muzzle. ● Paws - furry padded to keep warm too... and grip ● Nails - in a husky these can extract to grip on ice conditions (for climbing rock face and trees too - it has been recorded - but how they get down.. I don't know!) No other breeds are known for this... https://iheartdogs.com/all-about-huskies-8-fun-facts-you-may-not-have-known/ I'm still finding out more after six+ years... [emoji847][emoji16] enjoy! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app www.successdogs.com - πŸ€— Personal input, relevant to wannabe husky owners.... Some jolly good tips here - on Siberians..training, is this breed right for you? Consider very carefully, as you read all of this! However .. I disgree with using ANY furminator that cuts hair. ● Never EVER do this to a husky breed except for medical/health reasons. https://shibashake.com/dog/siberian-husky-facts End Marianne
  4. Where are you based? I'm near J9 M5. Maz
  5. I learned from a professional - Vicki Pullin of Arctic Quest very near me, who races her hounds & huskies for GB : Do not run dogs within four hours of eating food ... OR feed them within one hour after running. Start building muscle and stamina with walks, brisk, and gradually lengthen distances. If bikejoring, scooter or rig running, start with 1/4 mile sprints. Rest and repeat. Increase after 5 days, if continual runs are daily. Carry water, always. Check pads when home for any injuries, cracked pads or sore feet. Paw wax is useful to protect as is coconut oil. Good luck! Dark tongues = low 02 levels. Enlarged pink/darker pink tongues are normal, these help them cool off. Adding water to food (esp with kibble) will definitely help ensure they are hydrating. Temperatures NOT to run in: if over 12Β°C [53.6F], too warm. if T + Humidity =100 then not safe. Humidity over 60/80 will make your dog struggle because there is much less oxygen present. Running them with a motorised scooter is fine, but avoid prolonged periods on hard, paved or concrete surfaces as this is bad for their joints. Variable surfaces are good eg, paved/concrete, grass, packed earth...gravel may prove uncomfortable plus unstable.
  6. I took on Blu (16 months old) on Nov 25, 2018. It is a formal foster 'trial' agreement & an open period, to give his owner time to decide what to do or, if he can change his working hours. He is a lively, HuskyxMal, spent a lot more time in his 12' x 6' kennel as his owner was discovering, with increasing work hours creeping up so that a nine to ten hour day was becoming 12 to 14 hours. Even with someone to let him out or take for a walk, this was causing growing concern for quality of life by Blu's owner. Blu has a lovely nature, is extremely affectionate and still puppyish when & how he seeks to be really close to you, like, lying across your lap, neck, chest or burrowing half under you. And falling asleep. So Blu's owner found me on fb and asked if would I take him. He didn't want Blu to go the pound, shelter or rescue route. I had a serious chat with hubby; he's known for a few years I wanted another to join my two, and in Sep 2017, had built for me the back run, shelters (πŸ˜‰ x four) on decking, with covered wired overhang to prevent houdini jump outs), gates x two (I paid for the extra one opposite patio area) for access on to lawn, and gravelled, plus a patio decking area (south facing), reinforced fencing & panelled all along our side incl rein forced fencing for the weight, (neighbour had already had this side completely replaced from back to front (about 130'). This provides a long run to the back, a very large area within the run and with hayfilled roomy dry shelters for large dogs like HuskyXMals or Malamutes. The four shelter block can be moved with three/four strong men, and the base is open, so straw lies on the decking; this also provides ventilation from under through very slim gaps on the decking, plus drainage. My five year dream came true - we took out a small loan with a bit extra, to also cover some redecoration for indoors. This year David oiled all the woodwork as recommended & can redo this every two- three years. Chester is now 6.3yrs & came aged nine weeks, & Eski came (@2.1/12 after my Westies passed aged 13.5+ yrs & 15.5+ yrs old and Chester pined horribly. My girl Polly had adopted him - and was an extremely good mum, as she had been to five litters; all my pups never left until min 12-14 weeks old. (What mum teaches them in manners, toilet training, behaving nice socially & being friendly, is priceless). We made a good team! Eski came from Gumtree, as a rehome, rescue after her lady pensioner owner died suddenly in hospital, and her daughter felt it unfair to keep her indoors with an hour's dog walker a day, after six months. Besides, she knew little about huskies, or their care. Eski ticked all the right boxes, and our first meet was outside our home. Eski was two weeks post spay, (one of my conditions prior), as Chester was still intact but due to be neutered at two yrs or just over, which was the week after Eski came! They got on well and, she stayed. He went in two days prior his 2nd birthday for muffinballs to be emptied after 48 hrs of trying to stop him hurting Eski by humping.. (both ends). Eski came with food guarding, possession and, we found jealousy issues. Serious issues - we had some really sudden unprovoked attacks. Poor Chester who is as soft as butter would sit back with a 'wtf-inghell was THAT about?!" look on his face. So, he got snipped, & both were in cones; he mastered the hang of going out the dog flap backwards ( but not coming in), and Eski just acted totally blonde. I started serious training, after earlier researching (with just Chester then) - & found: ● Successdogs.com - ordered a DVD too & rewatched several times his free e-book & the MO behind his, Jean Cote's, ethos, on Lure, Capture, Reward. (● THESE THREE POINTS are the most important part to understand and implement, so do not skip it!) ... and this I had started on with Chester. After a few weeks, with several 3 to 5 minute sessions, Chester had mastered to ignore anything on the floor, and 'watch me'. He also learned to 'Leave' (or 'Give' something back) & only go and fetch that treat on the floor on my 'Ok'. He then learned to pick stuff up, stand on a piece of paper, and later an upturned low plant barrell, circle round it with fore feet on it, hind legs moving, and to 'fetch/pick it up,' items off the floor and bring to me and .. then learned to drop it into my hands first, then a bowl, but then into a bowl on the floor. When he got it wrong, silence, only hand gestures to/from item/to bowl. He got a reward every 'right' time with an ecstatic 'Yes! Good boy! Fetch & bring!' Then he learned to pick up (fetch') his metal 'bowl' and bring it to me into my hands. Dogs don't seem to like metal in their mouths, so this took longer, but he cracked it. I tried with Eski, but she became very gobby & vocal and remained a 'blondie'! Through all both their training - daily - I reward the good, ignore the bad/wrongs by treat or big praise.. They have 'time out' in a separate room or told 'go to bed' or 'out' (of the room), if being naughty or unpleasant, including getting over active or, playful indoors. The bungalow is compact and too small for this and there's three times more space outside in the back to run. So, Eskie got sorted to now being 95% improved on all her issues. We don't leave any food or bones down, and minimal toys, ie, the ones she isn't interested in, like balls! They stay in the garden. Chester is a soft wuss but can be a total ass-0.. too. They both learned to spin to 'Gee' & 'Haw'indoors, prior to my rig. Which I saved nearly a year for, plus all musher commands during walking out in a two dog gangline in harness. I want to teach Blu too. He had no social manners around my two, or us. One single good kind owner so it wasn't his fault. He also paced.. and paced and paced (still does, but is decreasing this now) and this caused friction as he'd push past mine in the doorway, or walk on/over them! I started the first night he came home. A 90+ minute journey. Dogs came in, and all three were muzzled, and were all told 'to bed'. Once they'd quietened down after a run in the garden, I then removed muzzles. Blu had a crate of ours with his blanket in & just one, of his many soft chewed up toys. My two know the dinner routine. Blu went 'to bed' and finally did go into 'down'. I started preparing dinner. Bowls out on counter. Blu was up and came into kitchen. I told him "Blu, Bed, Down" & walked him back by gesture to his crate, and gestured with finger sweep down to lie in " down". Dinner prep is usually three plus minutes: bowls out, coconut oil (one tspn off fork) first, Kefir 2tblspn each bowl, ACV 1 tspn each bowl (once daily only) & part raw (or raw mince) food off the shelf or from fridge if opened, mashed with fork, then 80ml scoop of Xcel 32% kibble added. Stir, add a cup of water, stir and place these in their respective adjustable raised dbl bowl stands. It took 30 minutes with Blu .. who was up and taken back quietly to his crate... fourteen times. [[My two were (incredibly good. And quiet too!]] ... By day four, he'd cracked it. He might be up, once, now rarely, pacing into kitchen, then back to his bed. Dinner prep now takes four minutes. My two are now noisiest, and Chester will creep in when my back is turned! If they start howling (Blu's just finding his voice) I stop. They're learning, lol. I invested in using vibration/sound only collars (E-collars are illegal in UK now & I had to immobile the 'E' part on these. They only be'eep, or vibrate. I have applied them to my neck. It's not painful, just distracting, & can make my throat vibrate! depending on level (1-100 for vibrate) and if on at right 'tighness' with room for two flat fingers under, these do distract them enough to get them listening during great excitenent or reaction. I work on verbal commands first; if that's ignored then I use the be-eep; if that is ignored then I go to vibrate and this is the system I use : verbal first then the beep then vibrate and if they continue to ignore, the vibrate gets stronger. Because I started at level 40 they now react positively to level 60 to 80 between them. By day four, Chester was out if his muzzle. By day 11 muzzles were off for day time whilst I was around, with collars on Eski (#1) & Blu (#2). I supervised all play times. If it got silly, or Blu caused too much pushing/jumping around to make Eski go for him, both had muzzles back on immediately. They learnt fast. It is not new to Eski ! By day 15, Eski started playing flirtatiously with Blu! After 4.5 years of a snarly very 'dog reactive' girl (apart from some nice times at husky camps) this was fab. I had them run zoomies daily, before taking them all on walks. Six stone each = 18 stone pulling power! Canibelts, locking (used by climbers) carabiners extea necklines to/from extra collar, β–ͺβ–ͺDogmatic ( the best for me), head collars, +necklines linked to harnesses & to leads. They all walk well - two miles with stops for me - (I have chronic neck pain) and by day 16, I could leave all indoors, unmuzzled, and being good. Bread & anything edible gets moved away into the oven or into the microwave if they chew their bedding that's their problem (altho' no issues now with strong, canvas/waterproof dog beds @ Β£19.99 each, which I may replace every two years. They are wash a ble, just use a hairdryer to dry out the inside .. and they ste asm lol. Chester is very good at picking anything up from outside and bringing it back indoors for me. I pick up once or twice daily & freshwater into very large 2QT/3QT bowls outside the back door, and they have 24/7 access to outside. I apologise this is so long ... but, I felt I have needed to explain how I train, how long I train, and how often I train (every day for every treat) and this is an ongoing thing ... everyday. πŸ˜‚ We still get some snaps from Eski and even Chester or Blu if either of the other ones come in for a fuss as well, but they all know now that behaviour like this is not acceptable and they are sent outside or taken out to their bed and they will spend five minutes 'time out' in the crate with the door shut. I only have to say 'be nice or you go out?' and now they comply. No it's not perfect; no, I would never trust them around food without supervision with Eski particularly, but I'm happy now it's working and. "success dogs.com" has been priceless in teaching ME how to understand the "Lure Capture, Reward Ethos" that gets the dogs to do what I ask them to do, to them wanting to please me for that treat. Good Luck. Their vibrate/sound collars are only on now when they go out on walks or trips. Peace reigns 98%, indoors &vout in the garden, so I am ever watchful esp. indoors, as space is pretty tight lol. Day 17 - I took them all out into town by car. This was a new experience for Blu and he ended up sitting behind my chair outside Costas where I had met a friend (having been pretty house bound for 17 days), and he sat and just watched the foot traffic, the road traffic, the noise & the bustle ..with treats and commands to 'sit' or 'down' as and when appropriate; he did get a bit excited when other dogs came past as Eskie, does but they all ended up behaving practically 85% very well. I was very proud of him and proud of my two and of course they attracted a hell of a lot of attention by passers by, because they're all gorgeous looking furkids.. 😁 I am having built I hope by bro-in-law a two tier of four inside crates (of the last pic), with gunge hinge/pin doors to remove when not required. They seem to all share beds, so they'll have four to choose from! Maybe next year I will board another on hols, altho' outside is also ideal for those that can & do live outside. Oh the sepia pucs are some if my childhood and many other animals on the farm in Borneo. My background story is on my FB page xx End.
  7. Big Kongs for my HuskyXMals still going. Mighty Mutt balls are solid rubber and, you can stuff some sticky treat inside these too. I got mine from my Animals Only shop near me but try Amazon/Ebay.
  8. Lol.. i get a fair bit of criticism, on muzzle.. tough. It's not cruel. All brilliant ideas and every everyone of them could work; to crate train is better in the day when you have the time if you are at home and that is by getting them in with a toy or a treat... once they bend down to pick it up, shut the door and give it 30 seconds don't make a fuss of her if she's whining but be around so she can see you; let her out and carry on. If you can get her tired that will really help and then back in with a treat thrown in.. as soon as she bends down to pick it up she may watch you this time! but when she goes down to pick it up THEN close the door quietly and again, leaving for a bit but lengthen times slowly... and by all means give her a treat while she's in there through the bars to say 'good girl! bed! ok I'm doing it with a new foster now 16 months old, and actually I always thought my two are quite often dippy but they're proving to be Perfect Angels lol... compared to the 16 month old little monster cos he's bigger than my big boy and he's learning already by day 3 here with me that the crate is his bed and it's there to wait in as it's also there for 'time out' when/if he's decided to go potty in the house and I mean going dipshit & doing zoomies and playing indoors, that he goes back in there, so he knows already he can't romp around - the bungalow is too small and they got a huge space the garden areas to run out the back; I let them out twice in the day for 45 minutes or even more and they run themselves ragged them back in for some 'time out'; my girl and he are wearing basket muzzles because she's a really cranky cow and she also goes back into the big crate we have for 'time out', with her muzzle off in there, and he then has the muzzle off so he can play with my boy and feel a bit more free - I swap him around so my girl has muzzle free space too. It's very true - they do want to be with you and a slightly smaller crate or pen in the bedroom may be a really good idea but gradually move it out or towards the door, because ideally you don't want to be too disturbed and they will learn to settle down by themselves.. if they're in the hall, maybe not downstairs, but you can set the routine for time out 'bed now' downstairs while you're busy working. Sorry it seems a bit lengthy - I'm actually dictating cos it's quicker and ..then I go back and try and put some punctuation in; you can only take your time and you need time off at home to work on it because she is still VERY young, missing her litter pack and Mum probably too .. and she's been used to having some form of company around ...so if you can both organise some separate extra time off to be at home with her then you can get her into a regular routine and ...don't forget she needs to rest and sleep too so putting in the crate for time out when she's been running around for a couple of hours is a useful time for getting her to 'settle down' and sleep; classical music seems to work well and if you're worried that she is feeling anxious, apparently humming when you're around them can help to relax them because if you've got vibes then they will certainly sense it very quickly. Do look at successdogs.com and absolutedogs.com - they are both very good sites for training and while she's young this is the best time to instill a regular training routine for sit, down, wait, bed, - whatever you feel you need to teach her around especially also to leave! If you don't I can probably 98% guarantee you will have problems by 18 to 20 weeks old so get the training in, study the sites, listen, watch and learn, and then put into practice; they are so intelligent that they will outwit you before you even realise it and then huskies get handed in, abandoned, or given up ... and it's happening every day with anywhere between 8 to 10 huskies a day, in the UK... don't let that happen with you. Good luck and.. enjoy! Use only positive reward training. πŸ€— If you if you can please look on my Facebook page under Marianne Cottee .. they also have their own Facebook page : Chester and Eski Cottee so have a look there and see what I was doing yesterday which was only day two with my new foster - he has no social skills because he's been a dog on his own and because his owner's work hours have increased massively... so he's in temporary Foster; he may well become a 'failed Foster' and we'll adopt him.. maybe, but I have yet to run a few weeks trial with him and also maybe his owner can can changes hours .. I don't know but if you look on that on my Facebook timeline, my most recent video is is quite lengthy because Blu was not getting to stay still & wait.
  9. All brilliant ideas and every everyone of them could work; to crate train is better in the day when you have the time if you are at home and that is by getting them in with a toy or a treat... once they bend down to pick it up, shut the door and give it 30 seconds don't make a fuss of her if she's whining but be around so she can see you; let her out and carry on. If you can get her tired that will really help and then back in with a treat thrown in.. as soon as she bends down to pick it up she may watch you this time! but when she goes down to pick it up THEN close the door quietly and again, leaving for a bit but lengthen it slowly... and by all means give her a treat while she's in there through the bars to say 'good girl! bed! ok I'm doing it with a new foster now 16 months .and actuallyI always thought my two are quite often dippy but they're proving to be Perfect Angels lolcompared to the 16 month old little monster cos he's bigger than my big boy and he's learning already by day 3 here with me that the crate his bed and it's there to wait in as it's also there for 'time out' if he's decided to go potty in the house and I mean going dipshit & doing zoomies and playing indoors, he goes back in there, so he knows already he can't romp around - the bungalow is too small and they got a huge space the garden areas to run out the back; I let them out twice in the day for 45 minutes or even more and they run themselves ragged them back in for some 'time out'; my girl and he are wearing muzzles because she's a really cranky cow and she also goes back into the big crate we have 'for time out', with her muzzle off and he then has the muzzle off so he can play with my boy and feel a bit more free - i swap him around so my girl has muzzle free space too. It's very true they do want to be with you and a slightly smaller crate or pen in the bedroom may be a really good idea but gradually move it out or towards the door, because ideally you don't want to be too disturbed and they will learn to settle down by themselves.. if they're in the hall, maybe not downstairs, but you can set the routine for time out 'bed now' downstairs while you're busy working. Sorry it seems a bit lengthy I'm actually dictating cos it's quicker and ..then I go back and try and put some punctuation in; you can only take your time and you need time off at home to work on it because she is still VERY young, missing her litter pack and Mum probably too .. and she's been used to having some form of company around ...so if you can both organise some separate extra time off to be at home with her then you can get her into a regular routine and ...don't forget she needs to rest and sleep too so putting in the crate for time out when she's been running around for a couple of hours is a useful time for getting her to 'settle down' and sleep; classical music seems to work well and if you're worried that she is feeling anxious, apparently humming when you're around them can help to relax them because if you've got vibes then they will certainly sense it very quickly. Do look at successdogs.com and absolutedogs.com - they are both very good sites for training and while she's young this is the best time to instill a regular training routine for sit, down, wait, bed, - whatever you feel you need to teach her around especially also to leave! If you don't I can probably 98% guarantee you will have problems by 18 to 20 weeks old so get the training in, study the sites, listen, watch and learn, and then put into practice; they are so intelligent that they will outwit you before you even realise it and then huskies get handed in, abandoned, or given up ... and it's happening every day with anywhere between 8 to 10 huskies a day, in the UK... don't let that happen with you. Good luck and.. enjoy! Use only positive reward training. πŸ€— If you if you can please look on my Facebook page and Marianne Cottee .. they also have their own Facebook page Chester and eski cottee so have a look there and see what I was doing yesterday which was only day two with my new foster he has no social skills because he's been a dog on his own his own as ours I have increased massively so he's in temporary Foster he may well become a failed Foster and we'll adopt him I have yet to run a few weeks trial with him and also maybe his owner can can changes hours I don't know but if you look on that on my Facebook session, my most recent video is is quite lengthy because Blu was not getting to stay still & wait. Lol
  10. Hopefully it will wear off.. make sure he is clipped in, off his harness, not his collar, in the boot (if an estate), or on a seat belt so he's safe and contained. You might try him with his own blanket or bed too for a familiar smell in there. πŸ€— Is he happy, or barking, crying, howling? Is he ok to go in? Can you video him? There are many definitions to 'crazy' lol
  11. What a gorgeous pup. The best thing to introduce them into a crate that is that the size that will fit them when they are fully grown from nose to base of tail; and the one way to do it is once they've got their bedding in or something not too chewable is to get them in by throwing a treat through the open door ..let them go and pick it up; as soon as they bend to pick it up to eat shut the door quietly (slamming it is not going to help at all) and repeat this for a few times and then gradually start lengthening the time in, with that door shut and give them praise & give them a treat and then let them out ... don't let them stay in long enough to then start whining and scratching because when you do let them out that would be a cue to them to say "hey if I make a fuss I can get out" - you want them to remain quiet with the words of praise and a little treat through the crate; make sure the crate's in an area they can see you from, when you do start closing the door for longer periods, say, working around the house popping out the back to the bin coming back in ... so they can see you and know you're aroun. I always have the radio on as well and I cover the top 2/3 of my crate and ... for my two it is an extra extra large one as mine are husky X malamutes and they both go into this when required but otherwise one sleeps in, one sleeps out, decided at night with them; the crate or the bed by airing cupboard door beside them & sitting room door (closed) behind, so there is a niche there in the corner. It's slow but look at successdogs.com - he recommends this kind of training for an introduction my aren't kept locked up indoors, if I go out; they have 24/7 access out to a secure rear run and shelters and they use the crate alternatively during the day if they want to snooze and rest or sleep on the runner in the kitchen as the crate is in the inner hall atrium (bungalow). πŸ€—
  12. You're lucky to do those distances as With my neck issue (degenerative spondylosis or, crumbling bones), wrecked knees (Anterior CLs, & sides) and now my Rt hip, but I can manage up to five miles with rests, and usually do between 2 to 3 and, if I'm really bad, I take them out on my mobility scooter which they"re goid to run beside ne each side! off my canibelt. I can easily do five or more miles however do need to build up their stamina. It's great fun.. too. Yes a lifeline to your canibelt, but whichever side they may 'dart' to (if prey drive kicks in), dictates whether you get pulled over and can stop, or even steer to, or dragged over. πŸ€— Really work on gee, haw, here! (To come back to you asap and sit), Ease up!/Easy! .. Wait! (when approaching a curb, or multichoice turn), Walk on, Straight on, On on! On on! (to keep going regardless) about turn -gee/haw (180Β° turn). In early training, do praise and treat when able; I carry a waist treat bag. And always bring water for them. BTW it is advised to give four hours respite after food before heavy exercise . Nor feed within an hour after. Bloating can kill. They'll drink what they need, however encourage them to have a break, and or at least not drink a huge amount. If setting off again, let their breathing settle enough to catch their second wind. I start with 200 yard sprints, rest then return a bit slower. Increase after three days and so on. Athletes are advised to rest alternate days in training, so do this too re runs, but walk out instead in between. I don't do longer than 1 mile runs, each way as thisis thecmax length I have on a friendly farmer's land. Running on mixed surfaces of (brief) tarmac, concrete, plus packed earth / gravel, mud and grass will toughen up their pads. Booties can & do protect them, not keep them warm especially in cutting ice conditions. They can get ice burns & grazes, so check pads, ... and your tack regularly, keep clean/rinsed through, re stitching and tearing.
  13. It's often called 'the suicide line'! You can get some nylon rope tie a figure of 8 stop knot onto his collar, or, harness through a 'D' ring and this goes back to you around your chest (some say they tie it to their left arm but if you want a dislocated arm/shoulder I wouldn't!) And I have come off, but refused to let go of the handlebars! Yelling Whoah! Wait! also worked! I have another line that runs to a bag in front of me to grab and remove to wrap around a tree ( attached to the rig to hold the difs in place should I need to, to then step off my three wheel rig. When standing on with disc brakes and on, it is quite hard fir my two to really pull me away... but not if I step off it! Unless a buddy can hold them. Elbow & Knee pads/protectors night be useful too. Mine can kick off & hit nearly 30mph then settle to between 8 to 12 to 18mph depending on terrain & levels You want strong legs to help them move on rough ground, mud etc so good grip footwear too on feet - maybe high ankle ones to protect against twisted ankles!walking a lot with them helps get them fitter, and you! Yoy'll be surprised how fast you can get tired pyshingto fet them through boggy ground and a goid musher always helps their digs, even getting off and running with rig or scooter or bike; takes some practice get back on board too! Good gloves to grip with, but also to avoid scraped flesh! Serious racers may wear lycra, but I'm all for warmth, and all over protection! Lol. Locking carabiners /a swivel one if you don't want a twisted line. πŸ€—
  14. If you go to Snowpaws or Hooners or any other husky related site for joring - bike, scooter or rig/parts accessories, you can buy single or 2 or 3 or 4 or more dog-line leads for pulling a rig or a scooter or, hooking up.. to a bike; and they will best advise you what you need, to hitch up, what is safe, for you and your dog. Do you make sure you have a secondary safety line or rope from dog to you. I would also not go out at all on your own; if you came off or hurt yourself, or something happens to your furkid, you need somebody there to pick you up and get you home and sort the dog out as well so please be very careful where you run. I'm not sure which part of the country you're in but you need to also make sure that you are not breaking any bylaws of the Council .. public pavements are out and not good for the joints on the dog anyway... public footpaths may be ok but I will get landowners permission if you are near a farm or anywhere in private property, and you need to be really extra careful with a livestock stock around particularly. Get good strong bungee cord depending what your dog is. The smaller Siberians don't need as big shock bungee cord as I have for my two husky malamute because they are just over 12 Stone combined and they also pull a three-wheel running rig, but I do have a poor Pawtrekker scooter; there is another gadget you can get call the Tug and Tow and if you google this and search for it you may be able to find it - not very cheap but it has a retractable line on a spring and then you're not having to worry about the lead dropping and winding roubd your rig, or running over it so yeah there are choices but do look around and ask more on other husky sites too especially the running ones and the sports husky running ones I think Anyway.. good luck! Also - check out insurance cover because your normal pet insurance does not cover you or dog, in rig running.. and you'll only get Third Party cover; in the unfortunate event that you or your dog and rig, bike or scooter end up hurting somebody else. In the event it is somebody else's fault I would certainly advise you get a pro-cam camera that you wear either on your helmet (very wise to have protective gear on) a harness on your body in front so you can also have a cover to argue your case if it isn't your fault .. should anything happen this is really important I've I've learnt that from reading lots of other people's posts and even walking out the dog a lot of people now have a camera or something to log it, and witness if another dog coming out to attack your dog or in the event their dog is off lead and yours isn't.. there's lots of things that you need to watch out for with huskies because they are generally very friendly but they can also become quite aggressive and defensive aggressive in the event of any other dog coming round to them. The Forest of Dean by the way, also have running days and tracks.. but you need a permit however I believe (because I've waited over 5 years for a permit) ... if you can find someone already in.. to go as their guest then you can have a go at doing some 'fun runs' and with friends. I spent a year walking my dogs out in harness on a canibelt while I saved for my 3wheel rig, and taught them indoors - spinning Gee and Haw but also re teaching them the word 'leave' to 'On by ' and to pass or overtake with 'Go by' ... there are other commands they've learned to 'ease up' and stop 'Whoa!' or 'wait'. And I've just about mastered a 180 degree turn to reverse direction and retrace... there's a lot to do, you've got the one dog - you can teach from Successdogs.com. It also teaches you how to get the spin right doing it indoors first. I would certainly suggest you have a look at that site because it proved very very useful for me! [emoji847] Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app
  15. Yep.. gradual lengthening times of absence...better if whilst in a crate (so safe) with soft /fav toys and an article with your scent on, but.. where they can begin to see you from, if you're in the kitchen. I have a radio on all day on low on BBC 2 altho' classic is soothing for them. Here's what I did with mine - going out in the car.. as I think GETTING out as much as you can is also very good, to desensitise them in a town/busy environment, including around ither dogs too... and, I cannot emphasise how important all/any training is vital NOW ..with this highly intelligent breed... Hope this is ok.. just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA.... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. πŸ˜‰πŸ˜ This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home), winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions from my being out of sight too! Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. and, you can also see them. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say OK .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've grabbed their leads! (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). [ALL pets must be either secured or in a fitted & secured crate inside a vehicle.] Several thousand pound fine possible. I also use 'Wait' on walks; every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait' ! Xxx. πŸ€—πŸ˜˜
Γ—

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.