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Maz51

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Maz51 last won the day on November 6 2018

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About Maz51

  • Rank
    Valued Contributor
  • Birthday 09/27/1951

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  • Real Name
    Marianne Cottee, nee Chambers, Mayes, (adopted) Mayhook (born Rasmussen)
  • Location
    Tewkesbury
  • Country Flag
    England
  • Occupation
    Retired: Theatre Nurse; Med/PA secretary; nearly 10 years as VR in Sea and Air Cadets;
  • Biography
    Born Denmark. Two siblings - recently discovered via DNA that we all have different fathers! both parents now passed. (I found at 58yrs five months after father's demise that I was adopted by him from children's home (born out of wedlock)aged nearly 4)and sister's father was also mine but...DNA genetic testing via 123andMe.com shot that down last year. NO worries - they were amazing parents.
    My husband looked at my striken face saying - 'You're not the woman I thought you were!' ROFL.... then
    Schooled in Oz. Grew up on a farm with eccentric mum/pioneer who introduced 5,000 new chicken stock into North Borneo.
    We also rescued several hundred dogs, cats - kittens & puppies out there and looked after orang-utans (48 over 8 years) otters, anteaters, mousedeer, gibbons, macaques, parrots, heron, African Grey, rats and bats (my pets) slow lorris', horse (retired young racehorse from Ireland/Singapore, rescued circus pony and other unusual animals. Rescued baby crocs from the pot too.
    Moved house 38 times.
    Moved to UK Dec 1969.
    School Ed. ended at 13.
    Nursing studies 1972-76 and Post grad nursing course in Theatre at Charing Cross following six months night duties at Guy's.
    Since then I studied and worked and hold about 8 'A' levels through my nursing, VR work (received my Diamond Jubilee medal)and private studies incl RSA course in Secretarial studies at Bracknell College and an Anaesthetic/Theatre perioperative practitioner (all rounder) Refresher Course at UWE.
    I hold Car, Motorbike and Coach licences. Also via VR Sea Cadets: RYA Day Skipper, Power Boat and safety certs, ME II, FAW Instr & Assessor (within MS-SC, music - snare drum and brass.
    Many varied jobs incl coach driving between divorces... No. 3 is brill. No 1 set precedence in divorce law lol - Mayes vs Mayes '83/'84 - was mentally ill. Has two grown children with whom I am still in touch albeit twice a year.
    Three kids - Daughter (32)is in top of DnB DJ - 'Missrepresent' - sadly we don't talk much - she is manic depressive like her father but I love her and am very proud of her.
    Two sons from No 2 - now 22 and 24 both settling with lovely girlfriends and in decent jobs - design engineering machinery. Also staying close by for extra cupboard food!!
    They get on very well with my Dave.
    Their father and step mum near too but not 'close' in true sense however loyal - and they have a younger half brother.
    You will see my background on dogs - via my WHW breeding etc...on forum posts.
    I mean well but know I can come across quite strong & opinionated - a chip off my mother's block!! Very determined strong woman.
  • Interests
    Brass Band. Musher, Cruiser & caravan camper.

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  1. She so needs your company and this breed is like no other! .. if you can take time off over a few days, do so.. and if you have a partner who can help share with you in time off, staggered... CRATE TRAINING Also on ● Out back Dog Training Page Troy recommend that crate training is vital - to a) give your dog their own 'den' and space. b) keep them contained if you need them out of the way - XL crate for enough room but ensure it's the length of their body, nose to tail base. c) for 'time out' if their behaviour is undesirable, and you give 'rejection' time; eg, if biting, being rowdy & not listening, behaving badly. Three to five minutes, ... bring back in and observe. If they repeat, simply clip on lead and walk them (no words), back to crate, unclip, put in, and close door. May take two or three goes, but they get it pretty fast. Hi and welcome. My training with this regime was this and it works very well ... take it or leave it xx To introduce any dog or pup to something new, you need to go slow & steady; the first thing you do and when you have a few days clear, you start from the beginning; you throw a treat into the crate (which can be partly covered over the top 1/3rd to create a 'den' or snug ... and you then wait for him or her to go in; as soon as they start to pick it up and eat, you close the door quietly. When they've finished you praise them and say 'good dog! in bed,' and then you let them out; you leave it for a while and you repeat the process, all the time leaving them just a little bit longer so they begin to realise (and trust) it is not a bad place but it's a safe place for them to go and they can get a treat at the same time; if they're really good and stay, wait for them to look at you and then say 'yes! come' and when they come out with encouragement, you reward and praise. Gradually, you can keep increasing the time span and you can walk away for a few seconds; this takes quite a few days and up to 30 repetitions to start getting it ingrained into them, that it's a safe place to go. Later you go out of sight but just increase the seconds to minutes very slowly. If they don't have 24/7 access outside it is actually harder. My two dogs will go in and sit in the crate; they have an individual crate box now, so the three of them are contained. I don't want or need them for long-term but I can put them all in and they settle down to wait. I don't have to lock them indoors when I go out because they have access 24/7 to outside to a very large run with outdoor shelters however, all the doors in my bungalow are shut and just one door from the inner hall to kitchen is open so there is just access for them in there, (around two crates area & one on top) and the kitchen; If that's the best way out of the house and your garden is secure, ie with 6 ft high fences then you could install a dog flap and if it's secure enough, that they can't get over or out, and nobody can get in (so ensure there are locks on Gates etc), then you should feel reasonably safe with them being able to exit via a dog flap. I would also work on this going out of the house for short periods making it all a 'no big deal'. Giving them a frozen carrot in their crate just before you go gets them focused on this. Put the radio on, remove any edibles off counters (bread & fruit in oven or microwave 😉) and ensure the bins are not accessible - I put a strip of tape on my bin lol. I used to have a strong silent closing one (as mine would suss out a sensor opening bin in no time)! The repetition training (for all training in new stuff) has to continue with encouraging them to go into the crate; if you're looking to shut them in long term when you go to work and @ bedtime, that's going to take longer, especially as they are not pets - they want to be near you as a companion; mine sleep in the hall outsiand a roomy one is important, de the bedroom door but they have access in once my husband goes to work and then they can come up and join me on the bed; I have a throw over it. Use, for all the training skills ... and disciplines - positive reward training. 🤗 Good luck! I will post a separate one on SA.. Separation Anxiety, for you.. which she also seems to have ... but she's a baby.. they take longer to mature, but are incredibly affectionate.. as I said more a companion than a pet. They are also better with a playmate or more too. Training. Is. So. Important. With this breed.. and you must start as early as possible - so intelligent! {Many forums out there to help you in "anything husky" pls.. Husky Owner's Forum. S.A. Hi This just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. Be aware it's not an overnight solution, day or two even... If at all possible, split some time off from work, between you both, on this... Here's what I did with my boy, and girl.. and I was/am retired. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally ... when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink (and my foster boy Blu is now too (8 weeks in), and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA .... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. 😉😁 This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, as this really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home); winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions, too ... plus me being out of sight too. I would go in & out of shops, for seconds, and then over more trips, increasing the times out of sight, but watching through the shop window... if they looked restless, or about to howl, I would get back to the car, take them out, and walk round for a bit, meet n greet, then back into car, maybe walk in/out of a few more shops within their eyesight, and then take them home. The more distractions/people/ activity there is, the better. Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. as, you can see them. I don't like them in the car out of sight from me. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say 'OK' .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. (It's worth checking no dogs are around or you could be knocked over!) I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, unclip from restraints, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've hooked them to my canibelt. (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). I also use 'Wait' on walks; ie, every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait'! My boy Chester howls uncontrollably if either Eski or Blu go out separately (eg with me to vet check!)
  2. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks. http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~imw/Lulworth-Cove-Introduction.htm
  3. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks.
  4. Hi, just been informed ..ref dog not eating. Maybe a blended baby food? Have they tried Forthglade, Lovejoys? Albion comes frozen raw. Mix with Xcel 32%. Small nutritous kibble. Soak so mushy. But try tiny amounts. Or, try dry. A raw egg? Scrambled? They could mash in an egg with Kefir. Avoid cat food as it is higher in salt. She'll need hydrating, with fluids, either by IV or by a spoon tilted into side of mouth to trickle in water, frequently. Keep me informed please. Where are you? Hi Am simply sounding out... I gather all has been checked... Whose furkid is she & where? Has there been any recent (or past) trauma? ?Exposed to anything? I think constant time spent with her is vital. Just be there. Maybe, put food down for other woofs, in sight of her, plus food for her. Let her see them all tuck in; maybe she'll eat some too. Is her oesophagus clear? Not narrowed? No ulceration? Gums ok? No bad teeth, or a broken tooth - this alone will stop a dog eating if a nerve root is exposed. A second opinion. Otherwise IV feeding to hydrate her, and give her some nourishment. Maz More thoughts... What's her history? Where from, history prior to acquisition? How old was she when leaving litter pack? How old now? Spayed? Urine & bowels ok? (as they can be given current situation)? Any genetic or inheritance possibilities /DNA insight?
  5. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    There are some specific dog paw dip containers that let you clean their feet individually... see attachment, which I googled; copes with a cloth to wipe dry too..
  6. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    I don't envy you, I had the same problems before I segregated my back garden into two. One long run at least 75' and 20' wide, with a concrete path (already there, gravelled areas, and decking, x 2 one at the back approx 3m sq with four big roomy shelters on it, and decking closer to the bungalow, (with a gate onto the lawn) again 3m sq for a patio area. The rear run can be gated off - it's about 40' X 20', stock wire fenced, + chicken wired on lower level at 1m. The concrete and gravel is a godsend. It's easier for poop pickups, (sometimes I miss stuff because of same colour!) However, no mud! I can choose when it's dry, to let them run zoomies, on the lawn but they do too in the big long run... The rear garden is at leadt two times+ the size of the bungalow footage, and the front is a good 45' X 30' too. The lawn needs filling & levelling too due to previously dug holes - it's very uneven. The quote for this is too much atm as money has had to go out on replacing broken down & old cars. We took out a small loan & after a five year dream I have something so useful and pleasing! I sit out most days in summer; often we eat out there too with a table, Brolley and comfy chairs I love it! The shelters have fresh hay put in at intervals and even yesterday, although cool, it was lovely out in the sunshine! The patio decking area has a BBQ. Bench, swing chair, and can take a popup gazebo easily, if weather is likely to become inclement. If you can separate an area even if it's an L shape for the dogs, for more running room and you have the other section only, grassed, and fenced off, and (or artificial turf), it should help. I know slabs are an option, but with many dogs, good drainage for pee needs to be considered, and maybe have it slightly sloped to go into a drain, connected to your own drains. Sluicing down is then a practical solution too. 🤗
  7. That is absolutely right! Well done. It's like, slow, slow with any / all new stuff. We ourselves can get used to many things because we can rationalise. Dogs need to learn through repetition that what might be threatening or scary because it is NEW can then become the norm, after repeated exposure, for it to become ... 'Oh that! No worries, because it's no threat!'
  8. Focus training (him to you) will definitely help.. Umbilical cord training too Research this online. Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com 🤗
  9. Hi & Welcome to this awesome group. My rescue/rehome girl came with +food guarding, alot, plus possessiveness, and jealousy.Seriously. I used basket muzzles in early training to avoid injuries, but I could also reward GOOD behaviour through these via the side. They all learned to take treats introduced through the side. All of these traits went to lack of proper training from a pup, growing up around other similar (untrained) minded dogs, and possibly ?SA and/or insecurity. I started training when I got her. She was two and a half years old, two weeks post spay, and wearing a cone. My boy Chester had come at nine weeks, and was just a few days' shy of his second birthday. As he kept 'jumping' her, he went in to be neutered, too, three days after Eski came, so both were in cones. I had the free E-Book downloaded from Successdogs.com and started with Sit, on both, with a small treat visible in each hand. (They are both food oriented). ● Rewarding within three seconds IS IMPORTANT. (It takes 30 repetitions to get a new command 'IN' and repeat it several times, daily). A treat for every good response. Ignore the bad, praise the good, incl this verbally, &/or with a clicker. Just keep asking quietly, (and using a hand signal) until they get it, and praise verbally when they get it right : "Yes! Good dog! Sit" or, whatever you asked. From Sit, we progressed to Down. From here, try the "Middle" game (on my fb timeline), from Absolutedogs.com I also did the hiding treat under foot... (successdogs.com) which gets them to focus ON you (eyeball to eyeball), not the treat on the floor. This now works on both. My boy is much more keen to play, learn and earn a reward, my girl is lazy. She's learned much through copy-catting, (however, KNOWS very well when she's done wrong, (ie, chewed up stuff ready to go round to the back bin/s), and shows absolute submissive and (comical) apologetic actions!) And she knoes I know she knows what to NOT do. She's very argumentative and vocal - well, Chester is too when I come home, & foster boy Blu (came Nov 25/2018) is now 17 months, nearly 18 months is just finding HIS voice. He has the most to learn, coming from one owner, increasing day hours in a 12' x 6' kennel and no polite respecting of pack etiquette, or around more than one hooman! Blu has a basically sound, sweet nature, however is over bouncy with excitement and learning hard and fast rules - which started* the night he came home. I also worked on 'Leave it!' with them, separately. Then 'Give' ie, to let go of a toy in exchange for a treat/ reward (work on this separately first) then with another furkid if you have them. Leave & Wait : (start with a three second 'Wait!') and slowly, day by day with the multi-repititions same day, increase the wait time each day. ● [ Wait! Is also vital when exiting the car, giving you time to unclip from in-car restraint, (UK 2014 law ref transporting all animals in your vehicle) and get your leads together/hooked on to canibelt. Also prevents escape, or running into traffic! ] From there, 'Bed, Time out', important if their behaviour is undesirable; this also means rejection - in the relevant situations. NOT meant when 'Bed' command is given, (to have them safely out of the way, into their crate). Again, crate training is on successdogs. Crate use is really important if you need your dog/s out of the way for visiting workmen, utility repairmen, dog shy visitors, and little humans and, infants FOR SAFETY and convenience. I reward mine through their crates, when they go in for this reason, and praise too "Good dogs, bed!" The "Bed, Time-out!" means rejection; ie, 'I don't want you here doing what you are doing!' However, to do this, YOU walk them on a lead OUT of the room to their crate, OR into a separate room, into isolation, & shut the door. All mine know that's for good reason, and know it is my 'rejection' of them due to their bad behaviour - ie, no treat when put into crate immediately the bad behaviour happens). Leave in for three to five minutes. Then bring them back out. If they repeat (any) undesirable behaviour, (You can say "No" and (silently) clip on lead and walk them back out again. WHEN they return, and ARE being 'nice and good', praise enthusiastically, AND reward "Good dog! Be Nice!" You both - ie, couples - need to work together on this, so they grasp where their place is in the family human pack. Young children can learn a lot just watching, as can other furkids in what you do. Older children need supervision if getting involved re training as positive reward training MUST be used always and only. [[ Shouting or striking -> fear. Fear -> defence -> aggression -> a snap, or worse, a bite, and, ultimately an attack if a strike (for a scolded action is given) and, human body /verbal language also triggers fear. ]] It won't all happen immediately re the behaviour you seek. If they get it wrong, or don't get it, go back to basics. It's not their fault. It is yours. 😐 You need TIME, patience, perseverance and planning (ahead) to achieve all these. Go to my timeline (videos) (some appear now to be mis-named, however you'll find my earlier and later ones showing how I worked. I use mushing terms when out walking, plus "Here" frequently to get them to refocus on me and turn round, come & sit in front, Sit &/or Down, or Paw on my lifted knee for a treat. Especially if I see another dog in the vicinity. Most folk cross the road, or, I move off the path if I can, to increase distance. When I can't walk out due to discomfort/pain in my neck, (severe crumbling bones to wear & tear) I resort to my mobility scooter. They've learned to keep paws away from front/rear wheels, and they stay on my canibelt approx level with the front, altho' I can bring them back parallel to me, or, they move behind, (command: 'Whoa, Wait') to let me through narrower spaces first. I can cover much longer distances with them, on this, and at varying speeds. Tires them out beautifully! Look at Absolutedogs.com too. Good luck! 🤗
  10. You're welcome! I trained my two to spin by following biscuit/treat in front of their nose.. first Gee - round to the right, over and over over during one week. Then Haw - round to the left. Then I could just move my hand in the direction, then a finger flick, or shoulder gesture, now just a word. I walked them out on a two dog gang-line, getting them to 'Ease up, Whoa! Walk on. Hup Hup Hup! Gee gee gee' (in advance just before they reach a divide in the path, or 'Haw Haw Haw!' and 'Good dogs!' when they respond. Vicki suggested I swap their positions around simply to run differently, however Chester prefers to be on the right of Eski and he'll push her over for a Haw command if she doesn't turn. She's a lazy learner but, has proven she's perfectly capable and can follow commands, but Chester is definitely my lead dog. On by, (Ignore! Leave!) Go by (Go past or, overtake). Wait! (stop, wait) (Just remember, and it takes min 30 repetitions to get training INTO this breed, and they really can learn quite fast. I still use all these commands on general walks and trained them initially on walks out, in harness off my canibelt... for nearly ten months whilst saving up for my Bruce Hall rig. It really was worth it. My first run booked at Vicki's was fabulous! She was very impressed how well THEY ran for her, before I did. Sadly, I haven't run for two years as I busted my knee 2016, and then my friend couldn't come out with me - you need a buddy, from a safety point... as it's just not wise to run on your own. I really hope to get out again soon, and, give my foster boy Blu, a chance to run too, beside Chester. Training & running... An extra non-slip collar on your dogs should be connected via neck lines to the line / lead, plus necklines from collar to harness. Basically, envisage any one item of tack on your dog, breaking and coming off; think, what else can you 'connect to', thus ensuring you always have a 'connection' so you cannot lose them! and when running, it may also mean a spare link/lead/line to you. Check your gear regularly, and ensure your locking carabiners ARE locked off. Washing harnesses and lines inside old pillow cases, helps stop them getting over tangled. Always rinse thoroughly after immersion in dirty water, or any, especially salt water, and, brass fitted clips are better than steel, (which can & do snap or break in extreme cold weather), however steel locking carabiners are fine. Safety gear, helmet, elbo/knee pads and strong thick gloves (I found some suade - like waterproof work gloves from Aldi), and I know these do protect my hands should I fall off! Sensible foot gear obviously, and elbow & knee pads may not be practical for actually running, lol. Good luck! And be safe. PS. I also have DogTrac.com tags on my dogs.. plus an ID tag on their collars, engraved fixed ID (with my contact details) info tags ON the second collar and of course they're all microchipped. Google DogTrac.com 🤗😎
  11. Glad to help wherever.🤗 Booties good to protect, not provide warmth, but the varied training ground/surfaces will toughen their pads. Vicki's dogs have far less issues in the winter racing abroad compared to many local dogs, which confuses the hell out of her bigger competition. She swears the mix of mud, (hard slog), water, grass, packed earth, some tarmac, gravel, concrete on her training grounds goes hugely to really toughening her dog's pads. If there's 'cutting' ice then booties protect, and are certainly good over an injury, if there's an open wound however your discretion to not run is paramount to allow rest and healing if exercise delays this. Beware of stagnant water & by rivers - be aware of Alabama Rot. Rinse /hose down feet after and dry carefully, checking for any nicks/scratches, punctures or spring seeds getting in deep between toes. Xx 1 of 3 - Husky facts... I love sharing info so bear with me... 🤣😃 I keep this on my memo pad.. • Sizes - From smaller Siberian - fleet and light of foot and ability to cool down body heat on long distance runs and cope better over new fallen snow. • The heavier Malamute has a much bigger body mass so cooling down takes longer. These are the power dogs used in big teams hauling freight - a team of 18 can and do .. collect and haul back empty oil barrels discarded by oil companies - at a steady 8mph to even 18mph. • Head - brain - truly incredibly - wide head with acute intelligence and very quick to learn with sensitive & patient teaching. ● Digestion - still not fully understood HOW their metabolism digestion has a 'switch' that converts stored body fat into energy for longer periods running w/o food than any other canine breed. In days of old, mushers fed only (☆blubber/seal fat) + frozen or raw fish, to their teams & carried this on longer excursions between the 100's of miles separated villages. They were fed on alternate days too. (Practised by some today on raw feed regimè, & huskies can cope too), but not pups. Necessary nutrients/ minerals still need to be considered as Huskies back then also foraged on roots/plants, fish. This ☆feed regime is no longer used nor could it be tolerated in our domesticated huskies now. http://siberianhuskyclub.org.uk/health/ https://books.google.co.uk/boo...ber teams of old&f=false ● Their coat colouring varies throughout the many different demographic breed types incl more 'wooly types. ● Ears - acute hearing - more so than your average woof or any other. ●Eyes - Almond shape : allows them to squint in blizzards, whiteout conditions to still see. Excellent long distance vision. ● Nose - dries up so it can't freeze in sub Zero temps. Much higher scent accuity then GSD's/others, & used too by Police in drug searches. ● Muzzle - in white out blizzards where the musher cannot see anything on frozen lakes - they can sense/feel higher temps especially where the ice is thinner... and divert around (research 1925 Nome village run). • Belly - all furry so no freezing nipples- their positions are hilarious - to cool off faster! ● Coat - https://www.snowdog.guru/groom-husky/ https://www.snowdog.guru/never-shave-a-husky/ ● NEVER SHAVE A HUSKY. Coat has a two fold purpose: top coat longer guard hairs protect against adverse weather - in ALL temps minus low or plus high including sunburn! It can collect snow/frost on it but repel water too - up to a point; some don't like water. Maybe they fear freezing (gene memory?) ● 'Eiderdown' (and second) undercoat : 'blows' due to surround & conditions - (in those outdoor nomadic dogs with or without a travelling tribe, they will only 'blow' if temps change &/or food times are good). ▪Grooming regularly is important - mine go to a knowledgeable groomer at end of second week of a blow usually bi-annually as it's then established & comfortable for them to be 'plucked'/ raked / blown /blasted then shampooed and blow dried. Anything that CUTS the hair is not advised (e.g. furminator - quite some controversy over this !) Dbl toothed rake, pin cushion retractable brush best. A Dog Groom Tool attachable to vacuum is great if introduced early on or even through positive reward to accept this (incl crate, appliances and new stuff!) ■ Huskies are in a group of about seven breeds that "self clean" beautifully, so batheing is not necessary unless they've rolled in something unmentionable or not olfactorily tolerable! 🤣 Because they shed constantly, dirty hair discards faster. Wipe down with a wet sponge and wipe dry then rub dry or blow dry. ● Groom through thoroughly to ensure creases are fully dried out ... as damp matted fur patches can lead to bacterial 'hotspots' forming very quickly, causing scratching, crusty smelly sores & a costly vet visit. (Shaving & exposing these areas dries them out faster, Leucillin spray has been reported as good to use, or ACV - good to dab on, and when crusty coconut oil - antibacterial/antifungal) ... The small damp top area of a hotspot belies the much bigger area affected under so shaving to expose the fully affected area is the only way to let it dry out and apply a mild steroid cream &/or oral meds. Cone on dog to stop them scratching/licking. Fur grows back in approx 2 months... 😍🤗 Cont .. 2 of 3 ... Husky facts... ●Leg circulation - blood temps regulated so the blood does not go to the core (like ours then causing frostbite) or hypothermia, but stays at 2°C so no freezing up on those long distance race/or runs. Booties are used to prevent injuries on Rocky ground or packed/cutting ice). They are worn to protect not warm. However : NB : frostbite can & does occur in the sickly, injured or because of skin pawpad breaks (eg, from skid burns) in skin incl those in weather (but not) weather acclimatised domestic huskies. url=http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky] http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky[/url] https://www.huskyhouse.org/husky/ ... Cont 3 of 3 3 of 3 Husky Facts cont .... ●Tail - the beautiful 'Swish' curl allows them to curl up in snow and breathe in warm air blown out with tail over nose/muzzle. ● Paws - furry padded to keep warm too... and grip ● Nails - in a husky these can extract to grip on ice conditions (for climbing rock face and trees too - it has been recorded - but how they get down.. I don't know!) No other breeds are known for this... https://iheartdogs.com/all-about-huskies-8-fun-facts-you-may-not-have-known/ I'm still finding out more after six+ years... [emoji847][emoji16] enjoy! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app www.successdogs.com - 🤗 Personal input, relevant to wannabe husky owners.... Some jolly good tips here - on Siberians..training, is this breed right for you? Consider very carefully, as you read all of this! However .. I disgree with using ANY furminator that cuts hair. ● Never EVER do this to a husky breed except for medical/health reasons. https://shibashake.com/dog/siberian-husky-facts End Marianne
  12. Where are you based? I'm near J9 M5. Maz
  13. I learned from a professional - Vicki Pullin of Arctic Quest very near me, who races her hounds & huskies for GB : Do not run dogs within four hours of eating food ... OR feed them within one hour after running. Start building muscle and stamina with walks, brisk, and gradually lengthen distances. If bikejoring, scooter or rig running, start with 1/4 mile sprints. Rest and repeat. Increase after 5 days, if continual runs are daily. Carry water, always. Check pads when home for any injuries, cracked pads or sore feet. Paw wax is useful to protect as is coconut oil. Good luck! Dark tongues = low 02 levels. Enlarged pink/darker pink tongues are normal, these help them cool off. Adding water to food (esp with kibble) will definitely help ensure they are hydrating. Temperatures NOT to run in: if over 12°C [53.6F], too warm. if T + Humidity =100 then not safe. Humidity over 60/80 will make your dog struggle because there is much less oxygen present. Running them with a motorised scooter is fine, but avoid prolonged periods on hard, paved or concrete surfaces as this is bad for their joints. Variable surfaces are good eg, paved/concrete, grass, packed earth...gravel may prove uncomfortable plus unstable.
  14. I took on Blu (16 months old) on Nov 25, 2018. It is a formal foster 'trial' agreement & an open period, to give his owner time to decide what to do or, if he can change his working hours. He is a lively, HuskyxMal, spent a lot more time in his 12' x 6' kennel as his owner was discovering, with increasing work hours creeping up so that a nine to ten hour day was becoming 12 to 14 hours. Even with someone to let him out or take for a walk, this was causing growing concern for quality of life by Blu's owner. Blu has a lovely nature, is extremely affectionate and still puppyish when & how he seeks to be really close to you, like, lying across your lap, neck, chest or burrowing half under you. And falling asleep. So Blu's owner found me on fb and asked if would I take him. He didn't want Blu to go the pound, shelter or rescue route. I had a serious chat with hubby; he's known for a few years I wanted another to join my two, and in Sep 2017, had built for me the back run, shelters (😉 x four) on decking, with covered wired overhang to prevent houdini jump outs), gates x two (I paid for the extra one opposite patio area) for access on to lawn, and gravelled, plus a patio decking area (south facing), reinforced fencing & panelled all along our side incl rein forced fencing for the weight, (neighbour had already had this side completely replaced from back to front (about 130'). This provides a long run to the back, a very large area within the run and with hayfilled roomy dry shelters for large dogs like HuskyXMals or Malamutes. The four shelter block can be moved with three/four strong men, and the base is open, so straw lies on the decking; this also provides ventilation from under through very slim gaps on the decking, plus drainage. My five year dream came true - we took out a small loan with a bit extra, to also cover some redecoration for indoors. This year David oiled all the woodwork as recommended & can redo this every two- three years. Chester is now 6.3yrs & came aged nine weeks, & Eski came (@2.1/12 after my Westies passed aged 13.5+ yrs & 15.5+ yrs old and Chester pined horribly. My girl Polly had adopted him - and was an extremely good mum, as she had been to five litters; all my pups never left until min 12-14 weeks old. (What mum teaches them in manners, toilet training, behaving nice socially & being friendly, is priceless). We made a good team! Eski came from Gumtree, as a rehome, rescue after her lady pensioner owner died suddenly in hospital, and her daughter felt it unfair to keep her indoors with an hour's dog walker a day, after six months. Besides, she knew little about huskies, or their care. Eski ticked all the right boxes, and our first meet was outside our home. Eski was two weeks post spay, (one of my conditions prior), as Chester was still intact but due to be neutered at two yrs or just over, which was the week after Eski came! They got on well and, she stayed. He went in two days prior his 2nd birthday for muffinballs to be emptied after 48 hrs of trying to stop him hurting Eski by humping.. (both ends). Eski came with food guarding, possession and, we found jealousy issues. Serious issues - we had some really sudden unprovoked attacks. Poor Chester who is as soft as butter would sit back with a 'wtf-inghell was THAT about?!" look on his face. So, he got snipped, & both were in cones; he mastered the hang of going out the dog flap backwards ( but not coming in), and Eski just acted totally blonde. I started serious training, after earlier researching (with just Chester then) - & found: ● Successdogs.com - ordered a DVD too & rewatched several times his free e-book & the MO behind his, Jean Cote's, ethos, on Lure, Capture, Reward. (● THESE THREE POINTS are the most important part to understand and implement, so do not skip it!) ... and this I had started on with Chester. After a few weeks, with several 3 to 5 minute sessions, Chester had mastered to ignore anything on the floor, and 'watch me'. He also learned to 'Leave' (or 'Give' something back) & only go and fetch that treat on the floor on my 'Ok'. He then learned to pick stuff up, stand on a piece of paper, and later an upturned low plant barrell, circle round it with fore feet on it, hind legs moving, and to 'fetch/pick it up,' items off the floor and bring to me and .. then learned to drop it into my hands first, then a bowl, but then into a bowl on the floor. When he got it wrong, silence, only hand gestures to/from item/to bowl. He got a reward every 'right' time with an ecstatic 'Yes! Good boy! Fetch & bring!' Then he learned to pick up (fetch') his metal 'bowl' and bring it to me into my hands. Dogs don't seem to like metal in their mouths, so this took longer, but he cracked it. I tried with Eski, but she became very gobby & vocal and remained a 'blondie'! Through all both their training - daily - I reward the good, ignore the bad/wrongs by treat or big praise.. They have 'time out' in a separate room or told 'go to bed' or 'out' (of the room), if being naughty or unpleasant, including getting over active or, playful indoors. The bungalow is compact and too small for this and there's three times more space outside in the back to run. So, Eskie got sorted to now being 95% improved on all her issues. We don't leave any food or bones down, and minimal toys, ie, the ones she isn't interested in, like balls! They stay in the garden. Chester is a soft wuss but can be a total ass-0.. too. They both learned to spin to 'Gee' & 'Haw'indoors, prior to my rig. Which I saved nearly a year for, plus all musher commands during walking out in a two dog gangline in harness. I want to teach Blu too. He had no social manners around my two, or us. One single good kind owner so it wasn't his fault. He also paced.. and paced and paced (still does, but is decreasing this now) and this caused friction as he'd push past mine in the doorway, or walk on/over them! I started the first night he came home. A 90+ minute journey. Dogs came in, and all three were muzzled, and were all told 'to bed'. Once they'd quietened down after a run in the garden, I then removed muzzles. Blu had a crate of ours with his blanket in & just one, of his many soft chewed up toys. My two know the dinner routine. Blu went 'to bed' and finally did go into 'down'. I started preparing dinner. Bowls out on counter. Blu was up and came into kitchen. I told him "Blu, Bed, Down" & walked him back by gesture to his crate, and gestured with finger sweep down to lie in " down". Dinner prep is usually three plus minutes: bowls out, coconut oil (one tspn off fork) first, Kefir 2tblspn each bowl, ACV 1 tspn each bowl (once daily only) & part raw (or raw mince) food off the shelf or from fridge if opened, mashed with fork, then 80ml scoop of Xcel 32% kibble added. Stir, add a cup of water, stir and place these in their respective adjustable raised dbl bowl stands. It took 30 minutes with Blu .. who was up and taken back quietly to his crate... fourteen times. [[My two were (incredibly good. And quiet too!]] ... By day four, he'd cracked it. He might be up, once, now rarely, pacing into kitchen, then back to his bed. Dinner prep now takes four minutes. My two are now noisiest, and Chester will creep in when my back is turned! If they start howling (Blu's just finding his voice) I stop. They're learning, lol. I invested in using vibration/sound only collars (E-collars are illegal in UK now & I had to immobile the 'E' part on these. They only be'eep, or vibrate. I have applied them to my neck. It's not painful, just distracting, & can make my throat vibrate! depending on level (1-100 for vibrate) and if on at right 'tighness' with room for two flat fingers under, these do distract them enough to get them listening during great excitenent or reaction. I work on verbal commands first; if that's ignored then I use the be-eep; if that is ignored then I go to vibrate and this is the system I use : verbal first then the beep then vibrate and if they continue to ignore, the vibrate gets stronger. Because I started at level 40 they now react positively to level 60 to 80 between them. By day four, Chester was out if his muzzle. By day 11 muzzles were off for day time whilst I was around, with collars on Eski (#1) & Blu (#2). I supervised all play times. If it got silly, or Blu caused too much pushing/jumping around to make Eski go for him, both had muzzles back on immediately. They learnt fast. It is not new to Eski ! By day 15, Eski started playing flirtatiously with Blu! After 4.5 years of a snarly very 'dog reactive' girl (apart from some nice times at husky camps) this was fab. I had them run zoomies daily, before taking them all on walks. Six stone each = 18 stone pulling power! Canibelts, locking (used by climbers) carabiners extea necklines to/from extra collar, ▪▪Dogmatic ( the best for me), head collars, +necklines linked to harnesses & to leads. They all walk well - two miles with stops for me - (I have chronic neck pain) and by day 16, I could leave all indoors, unmuzzled, and being good. Bread & anything edible gets moved away into the oven or into the microwave if they chew their bedding that's their problem (altho' no issues now with strong, canvas/waterproof dog beds @ £19.99 each, which I may replace every two years. They are wash a ble, just use a hairdryer to dry out the inside .. and they ste asm lol. Chester is very good at picking anything up from outside and bringing it back indoors for me. I pick up once or twice daily & freshwater into very large 2QT/3QT bowls outside the back door, and they have 24/7 access to outside. I apologise this is so long ... but, I felt I have needed to explain how I train, how long I train, and how often I train (every day for every treat) and this is an ongoing thing ... everyday. 😂 We still get some snaps from Eski and even Chester or Blu if either of the other ones come in for a fuss as well, but they all know now that behaviour like this is not acceptable and they are sent outside or taken out to their bed and they will spend five minutes 'time out' in the crate with the door shut. I only have to say 'be nice or you go out?' and now they comply. No it's not perfect; no, I would never trust them around food without supervision with Eski particularly, but I'm happy now it's working and. "success dogs.com" has been priceless in teaching ME how to understand the "Lure Capture, Reward Ethos" that gets the dogs to do what I ask them to do, to them wanting to please me for that treat. Good Luck. Their vibrate/sound collars are only on now when they go out on walks or trips. Peace reigns 98%, indoors &vout in the garden, so I am ever watchful esp. indoors, as space is pretty tight lol. Day 17 - I took them all out into town by car. This was a new experience for Blu and he ended up sitting behind my chair outside Costas where I had met a friend (having been pretty house bound for 17 days), and he sat and just watched the foot traffic, the road traffic, the noise & the bustle ..with treats and commands to 'sit' or 'down' as and when appropriate; he did get a bit excited when other dogs came past as Eskie, does but they all ended up behaving practically 85% very well. I was very proud of him and proud of my two and of course they attracted a hell of a lot of attention by passers by, because they're all gorgeous looking furkids.. 😁 I am having built I hope by bro-in-law a two tier of four inside crates (of the last pic), with gunge hinge/pin doors to remove when not required. They seem to all share beds, so they'll have four to choose from! Maybe next year I will board another on hols, altho' outside is also ideal for those that can & do live outside. Oh the sepia pucs are some if my childhood and many other animals on the farm in Borneo. My background story is on my FB page xx End.
  15. Big Kongs for my HuskyXMals still going. Mighty Mutt balls are solid rubber and, you can stuff some sticky treat inside these too. I got mine from my Animals Only shop near me but try Amazon/Ebay.
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