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Maz51 last won the day on November 6 2018

Maz51 had the most liked content!

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About Maz51

  • Rank
    Valued Contributor
  • Birthday 09/27/1951

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  • Real Name
    Marianne Cottee, nee Chambers, Mayes, (adopted) Mayhook (born Rasmussen)
  • Location
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  • Occupation
    Retired: Theatre Nurse; Med/PA secretary; nearly 10 years as VR in Sea and Air Cadets;
  • Biography
    Born Denmark. Two siblings - recently discovered via DNA that we all have different fathers! both parents now passed. (I found at 58yrs five months after father's demise that I was adopted by him from children's home (born out of wedlock)aged nearly 4)and sister's father was also mine but...DNA genetic testing via 123andMe.com shot that down last year. NO worries - they were amazing parents.
    My husband looked at my striken face saying - 'You're not the woman I thought you were!' ROFL.... then
    Schooled in Oz. Grew up on a farm with eccentric mum/pioneer who introduced 5,000 new chicken stock into North Borneo.
    We also rescued several hundred dogs, cats - kittens & puppies out there and looked after orang-utans (48 over 8 years) otters, anteaters, mousedeer, gibbons, macaques, parrots, heron, African Grey, rats and bats (my pets) slow lorris', horse (retired young racehorse from Ireland/Singapore, rescued circus pony and other unusual animals. Rescued baby crocs from the pot too.
    Moved house 38 times.
    Moved to UK Dec 1969.
    School Ed. ended at 13.
    Nursing studies 1972-76 and Post grad nursing course in Theatre at Charing Cross following six months night duties at Guy's.
    Since then I studied and worked and hold about 8 'A' levels through my nursing, VR work (received my Diamond Jubilee medal)and private studies incl RSA course in Secretarial studies at Bracknell College and an Anaesthetic/Theatre perioperative practitioner (all rounder) Refresher Course at UWE.
    I hold Car, Motorbike and Coach licences. Also via VR Sea Cadets: RYA Day Skipper, Power Boat and safety certs, ME II, FAW Instr & Assessor (within MS-SC, music - snare drum and brass.
    Many varied jobs incl coach driving between divorces... No. 3 is brill. No 1 set precedence in divorce law lol - Mayes vs Mayes '83/'84 - was mentally ill. Has two grown children with whom I am still in touch albeit twice a year.
    Three kids - Daughter (32)is in top of DnB DJ - 'Missrepresent' - sadly we don't talk much - she is manic depressive like her father but I love her and am very proud of her.
    Two sons from No 2 - now 22 and 24 both settling with lovely girlfriends and in decent jobs - design engineering machinery. Also staying close by for extra cupboard food!!
    They get on very well with my Dave.
    Their father and step mum near too but not 'close' in true sense however loyal - and they have a younger half brother.
    You will see my background on dogs - via my WHW breeding etc...on forum posts.
    I mean well but know I can come across quite strong & opinionated - a chip off my mother's block!! Very determined strong woman.
  • Interests
    Brass Band. Musher, Cruiser & caravan camper.

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  1. Ok, so little & often. Go out in the car - ensure he is in a harness & secure to a seat belt clip. You can look at Indi-dog for dog tack - or, initially a small crate secured in the back seat will keep him safe. Find a cafe where you can sit outside, or a dog friendly pub. Let him sit close by & just watch what's going on around him. Meet n greet folk too, so he gets used to 'nice' folk. Is he chipped, and wearing a licence dog tag with ID on too, plus your contact number? This must be on his collar, but another on his harness won't hurt either. Let him desensitise & get accustomed to the world of many car rides, feet, ppl, dogs, buggies, and traffic. I cannot stress puppy classes enough.. he NEEDS to meet others in his age group, so he sees all kinds. The training & games you do at home will help him bond. Look at umbilical cord tethering too - so good. Those sites I gave you are for watching learning and applying! Crate training is vital for him to have HIS safe place. And for you to pop him into if you have workmen/dog-shy visitors. A crate covered β…“ over the top will give him this, tucked into a corner or certainly against a wall. Separation anxiety can be reduced (when he's around 5 to six months) or removed, by taking him out in the car, parking in the high street (NOT in summer heat) with windows open for ventilation & you moving in & out of shops, but he can see you. He'll also have other stuff to look at. As you pop out of sight but YOU can see him, see how he responds.. when he starts to get upset, move back quickly, don't overfuss, but reward with a treat, & 'good boy wait' then ask him to 'Wait' again, while you gather his lead, unclip from the seatbelt (these leads are on Amazon) and take him out for a walkabout. Don't forget poop bags πŸ˜‰πŸ‘ Repeat the exercise over the week, not necessarily every day. Leave radio on & a filled Kong to occupy him when you leave, at home, without overly fussing. Keep your early exits as brief as possible, & gradually extend periods out. Maz xx
  2. How old is he? Best way to introductions for pups is, keep your distance, and keep outings brief. Only 15 mins walk out time per month of age. If you can go to quieter places, but find a playmate he can meet too, this can so help. Sadly pups leaving mum at 8 or 9 weeks does not give them ANY chance to develop, learn manners within the litter pack or from mum. This makes them lack in confidence, and scared of any new experiences. Babies/toddlers can go through this too. Find out from your vet on puppy/socialising classes ASAP & get him to meet others in his age group. Also, start doing some training/play games ASAP so he focuses on you, not the big scary world out there. Training needs to start early with this bright intelligent breed, as they can become bored and naughty, and/or destructive. My three have their own website & I hope you'll visit Chester and Eski and Blu of Tewkesbury @mythreehuskxmalamutes I'm happy to help with tips & training what DOES & HAS worked for me over seven years with this breed, but also a lifetime of many other breeds, and species of animals. And ensure his vaccinations & worming are up to date - esp the latter as these need doing a bit more often in his first year. πŸ€—πŸ˜˜ Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com Outback Dog Training Pages Good luck, Maz
  3. She so needs your company and this breed is like no other! .. if you can take time off over a few days, do so.. and if you have a partner who can help share with you in time off, staggered... CRATE TRAINING Also on ● Out back Dog Training Page Troy recommend that crate training is vital - to a) give your dog their own 'den' and space. b) keep them contained if you need them out of the way - XL crate for enough room but ensure it's the length of their body, nose to tail base. c) for 'time out' if their behaviour is undesirable, and you give 'rejection' time; eg, if biting, being rowdy & not listening, behaving badly. Three to five minutes, ... bring back in and observe. If they repeat, simply clip on lead and walk them (no words), back to crate, unclip, put in, and close door. May take two or three goes, but they get it pretty fast. Hi and welcome. My training with this regime was this and it works very well ... take it or leave it xx To introduce any dog or pup to something new, you need to go slow & steady; the first thing you do and when you have a few days clear, you start from the beginning; you throw a treat into the crate (which can be partly covered over the top 1/3rd to create a 'den' or snug ... and you then wait for him or her to go in; as soon as they start to pick it up and eat, you close the door quietly. When they've finished you praise them and say 'good dog! in bed,' and then you let them out; you leave it for a while and you repeat the process, all the time leaving them just a little bit longer so they begin to realise (and trust) it is not a bad place but it's a safe place for them to go and they can get a treat at the same time; if they're really good and stay, wait for them to look at you and then say 'yes! come' and when they come out with encouragement, you reward and praise. Gradually, you can keep increasing the time span and you can walk away for a few seconds; this takes quite a few days and up to 30 repetitions to start getting it ingrained into them, that it's a safe place to go. Later you go out of sight but just increase the seconds to minutes very slowly. If they don't have 24/7 access outside it is actually harder. My two dogs will go in and sit in the crate; they have an individual crate box now, so the three of them are contained. I don't want or need them for long-term but I can put them all in and they settle down to wait. I don't have to lock them indoors when I go out because they have access 24/7 to outside to a very large run with outdoor shelters however, all the doors in my bungalow are shut and just one door from the inner hall to kitchen is open so there is just access for them in there, (around two crates area & one on top) and the kitchen; If that's the best way out of the house and your garden is secure, ie with 6 ft high fences then you could install a dog flap and if it's secure enough, that they can't get over or out, and nobody can get in (so ensure there are locks on Gates etc), then you should feel reasonably safe with them being able to exit via a dog flap. I would also work on this going out of the house for short periods making it all a 'no big deal'. Giving them a frozen carrot in their crate just before you go gets them focused on this. Put the radio on, remove any edibles off counters (bread & fruit in oven or microwave πŸ˜‰) and ensure the bins are not accessible - I put a strip of tape on my bin lol. I used to have a strong silent closing one (as mine would suss out a sensor opening bin in no time)! The repetition training (for all training in new stuff) has to continue with encouraging them to go into the crate; if you're looking to shut them in long term when you go to work and @ bedtime, that's going to take longer, especially as they are not pets - they want to be near you as a companion; mine sleep in the hall outsiand a roomy one is important, de the bedroom door but they have access in once my husband goes to work and then they can come up and join me on the bed; I have a throw over it. Use, for all the training skills ... and disciplines - positive reward training. πŸ€— Good luck! I will post a separate one on SA.. Separation Anxiety, for you.. which she also seems to have ... but she's a baby.. they take longer to mature, but are incredibly affectionate.. as I said more a companion than a pet. They are also better with a playmate or more too. Training. Is. So. Important. With this breed.. and you must start as early as possible - so intelligent! {Many forums out there to help you in "anything husky" pls.. Husky Owner's Forum. S.A. Hi This just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. Be aware it's not an overnight solution, day or two even... If at all possible, split some time off from work, between you both, on this... Here's what I did with my boy, and girl.. and I was/am retired. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally ... when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink (and my foster boy Blu is now too (8 weeks in), and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA .... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. πŸ˜‰πŸ˜ This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, as this really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home); winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions, too ... plus me being out of sight too. I would go in & out of shops, for seconds, and then over more trips, increasing the times out of sight, but watching through the shop window... if they looked restless, or about to howl, I would get back to the car, take them out, and walk round for a bit, meet n greet, then back into car, maybe walk in/out of a few more shops within their eyesight, and then take them home. The more distractions/people/ activity there is, the better. Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. as, you can see them. I don't like them in the car out of sight from me. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say 'OK' .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. (It's worth checking no dogs are around or you could be knocked over!) I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, unclip from restraints, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've hooked them to my canibelt. (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). I also use 'Wait' on walks; ie, every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait'! My boy Chester howls uncontrollably if either Eski or Blu go out separately (eg with me to vet check!)
  4. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks. http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~imw/Lulworth-Cove-Introduction.htm
  5. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks.
  6. Hi, just been informed ..ref dog not eating. Maybe a blended baby food? Have they tried Forthglade, Lovejoys? Albion comes frozen raw. Mix with Xcel 32%. Small nutritous kibble. Soak so mushy. But try tiny amounts. Or, try dry. A raw egg? Scrambled? They could mash in an egg with Kefir. Avoid cat food as it is higher in salt. She'll need hydrating, with fluids, either by IV or by a spoon tilted into side of mouth to trickle in water, frequently. Keep me informed please. Where are you? Hi Am simply sounding out... I gather all has been checked... Whose furkid is she & where? Has there been any recent (or past) trauma? ?Exposed to anything? I think constant time spent with her is vital. Just be there. Maybe, put food down for other woofs, in sight of her, plus food for her. Let her see them all tuck in; maybe she'll eat some too. Is her oesophagus clear? Not narrowed? No ulceration? Gums ok? No bad teeth, or a broken tooth - this alone will stop a dog eating if a nerve root is exposed. A second opinion. Otherwise IV feeding to hydrate her, and give her some nourishment. Maz More thoughts... What's her history? Where from, history prior to acquisition? How old was she when leaving litter pack? How old now? Spayed? Urine & bowels ok? (as they can be given current situation)? Any genetic or inheritance possibilities /DNA insight?
  7. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    There are some specific dog paw dip containers that let you clean their feet individually... see attachment, which I googled; copes with a cloth to wipe dry too..
  8. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    I don't envy you, I had the same problems before I segregated my back garden into two. One long run at least 75' and 20' wide, with a concrete path (already there, gravelled areas, and decking, x 2 one at the back approx 3m sq with four big roomy shelters on it, and decking closer to the bungalow, (with a gate onto the lawn) again 3m sq for a patio area. The rear run can be gated off - it's about 40' X 20', stock wire fenced, + chicken wired on lower level at 1m. The concrete and gravel is a godsend. It's easier for poop pickups, (sometimes I miss stuff because of same colour!) However, no mud! I can choose when it's dry, to let them run zoomies, on the lawn but they do too in the big long run... The rear garden is at leadt two times+ the size of the bungalow footage, and the front is a good 45' X 30' too. The lawn needs filling & levelling too due to previously dug holes - it's very uneven. The quote for this is too much atm as money has had to go out on replacing broken down & old cars. We took out a small loan & after a five year dream I have something so useful and pleasing! I sit out most days in summer; often we eat out there too with a table, Brolley and comfy chairs I love it! The shelters have fresh hay put in at intervals and even yesterday, although cool, it was lovely out in the sunshine! The patio decking area has a BBQ. Bench, swing chair, and can take a popup gazebo easily, if weather is likely to become inclement. If you can separate an area even if it's an L shape for the dogs, for more running room and you have the other section only, grassed, and fenced off, and (or artificial turf), it should help. I know slabs are an option, but with many dogs, good drainage for pee needs to be considered, and maybe have it slightly sloped to go into a drain, connected to your own drains. Sluicing down is then a practical solution too. πŸ€—
  9. That is absolutely right! Well done. It's like, slow, slow with any / all new stuff. We ourselves can get used to many things because we can rationalise. Dogs need to learn through repetition that what might be threatening or scary because it is NEW can then become the norm, after repeated exposure, for it to become ... 'Oh that! No worries, because it's no threat!'
  10. Focus training (him to you) will definitely help.. Umbilical cord training too Research this online. Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com πŸ€—
  11. Hi & Welcome to this awesome group. My rescue/rehome girl came with +food guarding, alot, plus possessiveness, and jealousy.Seriously. I used basket muzzles in early training to avoid injuries, but I could also reward GOOD behaviour through these via the side. They all learned to take treats introduced through the side. All of these traits went to lack of proper training from a pup, growing up around other similar (untrained) minded dogs, and possibly ?SA and/or insecurity. I started training when I got her. She was two and a half years old, two weeks post spay, and wearing a cone. My boy Chester had come at nine weeks, and was just a few days' shy of his second birthday. As he kept 'jumping' her, he went in to be neutered, too, three days after Eski came, so both were in cones. I had the free E-Book downloaded from Successdogs.com and started with Sit, on both, with a small treat visible in each hand. (They are both food oriented). ● Rewarding within three seconds IS IMPORTANT. (It takes 30 repetitions to get a new command 'IN' and repeat it several times, daily). A treat for every good response. Ignore the bad, praise the good, incl this verbally, &/or with a clicker. Just keep asking quietly, (and using a hand signal) until they get it, and praise verbally when they get it right : "Yes! Good dog! Sit" or, whatever you asked. From Sit, we progressed to Down. From here, try the "Middle" game (on my fb timeline), from Absolutedogs.com I also did the hiding treat under foot... (successdogs.com) which gets them to focus ON you (eyeball to eyeball), not the treat on the floor. This now works on both. My boy is much more keen to play, learn and earn a reward, my girl is lazy. She's learned much through copy-catting, (however, KNOWS very well when she's done wrong, (ie, chewed up stuff ready to go round to the back bin/s), and shows absolute submissive and (comical) apologetic actions!) And she knoes I know she knows what to NOT do. She's very argumentative and vocal - well, Chester is too when I come home, & foster boy Blu (came Nov 25/2018) is now 17 months, nearly 18 months is just finding HIS voice. He has the most to learn, coming from one owner, increasing day hours in a 12' x 6' kennel and no polite respecting of pack etiquette, or around more than one hooman! Blu has a basically sound, sweet nature, however is over bouncy with excitement and learning hard and fast rules - which started* the night he came home. I also worked on 'Leave it!' with them, separately. Then 'Give' ie, to let go of a toy in exchange for a treat/ reward (work on this separately first) then with another furkid if you have them. Leave & Wait : (start with a three second 'Wait!') and slowly, day by day with the multi-repititions same day, increase the wait time each day. ● [ Wait! Is also vital when exiting the car, giving you time to unclip from in-car restraint, (UK 2014 law ref transporting all animals in your vehicle) and get your leads together/hooked on to canibelt. Also prevents escape, or running into traffic! ] From there, 'Bed, Time out', important if their behaviour is undesirable; this also means rejection - in the relevant situations. NOT meant when 'Bed' command is given, (to have them safely out of the way, into their crate). Again, crate training is on successdogs. Crate use is really important if you need your dog/s out of the way for visiting workmen, utility repairmen, dog shy visitors, and little humans and, infants FOR SAFETY and convenience. I reward mine through their crates, when they go in for this reason, and praise too "Good dogs, bed!" The "Bed, Time-out!" means rejection; ie, 'I don't want you here doing what you are doing!' However, to do this, YOU walk them on a lead OUT of the room to their crate, OR into a separate room, into isolation, & shut the door. All mine know that's for good reason, and know it is my 'rejection' of them due to their bad behaviour - ie, no treat when put into crate immediately the bad behaviour happens). Leave in for three to five minutes. Then bring them back out. If they repeat (any) undesirable behaviour, (You can say "No" and (silently) clip on lead and walk them back out again. WHEN they return, and ARE being 'nice and good', praise enthusiastically, AND reward "Good dog! Be Nice!" You both - ie, couples - need to work together on this, so they grasp where their place is in the family human pack. Young children can learn a lot just watching, as can other furkids in what you do. Older children need supervision if getting involved re training as positive reward training MUST be used always and only. [[ Shouting or striking -> fear. Fear -> defence -> aggression -> a snap, or worse, a bite, and, ultimately an attack if a strike (for a scolded action is given) and, human body /verbal language also triggers fear. ]] It won't all happen immediately re the behaviour you seek. If they get it wrong, or don't get it, go back to basics. It's not their fault. It is yours. 😐 You need TIME, patience, perseverance and planning (ahead) to achieve all these. Go to my timeline (videos) (some appear now to be mis-named, however you'll find my earlier and later ones showing how I worked. I use mushing terms when out walking, plus "Here" frequently to get them to refocus on me and turn round, come & sit in front, Sit &/or Down, or Paw on my lifted knee for a treat. Especially if I see another dog in the vicinity. Most folk cross the road, or, I move off the path if I can, to increase distance. When I can't walk out due to discomfort/pain in my neck, (severe crumbling bones to wear & tear) I resort to my mobility scooter. They've learned to keep paws away from front/rear wheels, and they stay on my canibelt approx level with the front, altho' I can bring them back parallel to me, or, they move behind, (command: 'Whoa, Wait') to let me through narrower spaces first. I can cover much longer distances with them, on this, and at varying speeds. Tires them out beautifully! Look at Absolutedogs.com too. Good luck! πŸ€—
  12. You're welcome! I trained my two to spin by following biscuit/treat in front of their nose.. first Gee - round to the right, over and over over during one week. Then Haw - round to the left. Then I could just move my hand in the direction, then a finger flick, or shoulder gesture, now just a word. I walked them out on a two dog gang-line, getting them to 'Ease up, Whoa! Walk on. Hup Hup Hup! Gee gee gee' (in advance just before they reach a divide in the path, or 'Haw Haw Haw!' and 'Good dogs!' when they respond. Vicki suggested I swap their positions around simply to run differently, however Chester prefers to be on the right of Eski and he'll push her over for a Haw command if she doesn't turn. She's a lazy learner but, has proven she's perfectly capable and can follow commands, but Chester is definitely my lead dog. On by, (Ignore! Leave!) Go by (Go past or, overtake). Wait! (stop, wait) (Just remember, and it takes min 30 repetitions to get training INTO this breed, and they really can learn quite fast. I still use all these commands on general walks and trained them initially on walks out, in harness off my canibelt... for nearly ten months whilst saving up for my Bruce Hall rig. It really was worth it. My first run booked at Vicki's was fabulous! She was very impressed how well THEY ran for her, before I did. Sadly, I haven't run for two years as I busted my knee 2016, and then my friend couldn't come out with me - you need a buddy, from a safety point... as it's just not wise to run on your own. I really hope to get out again soon, and, give my foster boy Blu, a chance to run too, beside Chester. Training & running... An extra non-slip collar on your dogs should be connected via neck lines to the line / lead, plus necklines from collar to harness. Basically, envisage any one item of tack on your dog, breaking and coming off; think, what else can you 'connect to', thus ensuring you always have a 'connection' so you cannot lose them! and when running, it may also mean a spare link/lead/line to you. Check your gear regularly, and ensure your locking carabiners ARE locked off. Washing harnesses and lines inside old pillow cases, helps stop them getting over tangled. Always rinse thoroughly after immersion in dirty water, or any, especially salt water, and, brass fitted clips are better than steel, (which can & do snap or break in extreme cold weather), however steel locking carabiners are fine. Safety gear, helmet, elbo/knee pads and strong thick gloves (I found some suade - like waterproof work gloves from Aldi), and I know these do protect my hands should I fall off! Sensible foot gear obviously, and elbow & knee pads may not be practical for actually running, lol. Good luck! And be safe. PS. I also have DogTrac.com tags on my dogs.. plus an ID tag on their collars, engraved fixed ID (with my contact details) info tags ON the second collar and of course they're all microchipped. Google DogTrac.com πŸ€—πŸ˜Ž
  13. Glad to help wherever.πŸ€— Booties good to protect, not provide warmth, but the varied training ground/surfaces will toughen their pads. Vicki's dogs have far less issues in the winter racing abroad compared to many local dogs, which confuses the hell out of her bigger competition. She swears the mix of mud, (hard slog), water, grass, packed earth, some tarmac, gravel, concrete on her training grounds goes hugely to really toughening her dog's pads. If there's 'cutting' ice then booties protect, and are certainly good over an injury, if there's an open wound however your discretion to not run is paramount to allow rest and healing if exercise delays this. Beware of stagnant water & by rivers - be aware of Alabama Rot. Rinse /hose down feet after and dry carefully, checking for any nicks/scratches, punctures or spring seeds getting in deep between toes. Xx 1 of 3 - Husky facts... I love sharing info so bear with me... πŸ€£πŸ˜ƒ I keep this on my memo pad.. β€’ Sizes - From smaller Siberian - fleet and light of foot and ability to cool down body heat on long distance runs and cope better over new fallen snow. β€’ The heavier Malamute has a much bigger body mass so cooling down takes longer. These are the power dogs used in big teams hauling freight - a team of 18 can and do .. collect and haul back empty oil barrels discarded by oil companies - at a steady 8mph to even 18mph. β€’ Head - brain - truly incredibly - wide head with acute intelligence and very quick to learn with sensitive & patient teaching. ● Digestion - still not fully understood HOW their metabolism digestion has a 'switch' that converts stored body fat into energy for longer periods running w/o food than any other canine breed. In days of old, mushers fed only (β˜†blubber/seal fat) + frozen or raw fish, to their teams & carried this on longer excursions between the 100's of miles separated villages. They were fed on alternate days too. (Practised by some today on raw feed regimΓ¨, & huskies can cope too), but not pups. Necessary nutrients/ minerals still need to be considered as Huskies back then also foraged on roots/plants, fish. This β˜†feed regime is no longer used nor could it be tolerated in our domesticated huskies now. http://siberianhuskyclub.org.uk/health/ https://books.google.co.uk/boo...ber teams of old&f=false ● Their coat colouring varies throughout the many different demographic breed types incl more 'wooly types. ● Ears - acute hearing - more so than your average woof or any other. ●Eyes - Almond shape : allows them to squint in blizzards, whiteout conditions to still see. Excellent long distance vision. ● Nose - dries up so it can't freeze in sub Zero temps. Much higher scent accuity then GSD's/others, & used too by Police in drug searches. ● Muzzle - in white out blizzards where the musher cannot see anything on frozen lakes - they can sense/feel higher temps especially where the ice is thinner... and divert around (research 1925 Nome village run). β€’ Belly - all furry so no freezing nipples- their positions are hilarious - to cool off faster! ● Coat - https://www.snowdog.guru/groom-husky/ https://www.snowdog.guru/never-shave-a-husky/ ● NEVER SHAVE A HUSKY. Coat has a two fold purpose: top coat longer guard hairs protect against adverse weather - in ALL temps minus low or plus high including sunburn! It can collect snow/frost on it but repel water too - up to a point; some don't like water. Maybe they fear freezing (gene memory?) ● 'Eiderdown' (and second) undercoat : 'blows' due to surround & conditions - (in those outdoor nomadic dogs with or without a travelling tribe, they will only 'blow' if temps change &/or food times are good). β–ͺGrooming regularly is important - mine go to a knowledgeable groomer at end of second week of a blow usually bi-annually as it's then established & comfortable for them to be 'plucked'/ raked / blown /blasted then shampooed and blow dried. Anything that CUTS the hair is not advised (e.g. furminator - quite some controversy over this !) Dbl toothed rake, pin cushion retractable brush best. A Dog Groom Tool attachable to vacuum is great if introduced early on or even through positive reward to accept this (incl crate, appliances and new stuff!) β–  Huskies are in a group of about seven breeds that "self clean" beautifully, so batheing is not necessary unless they've rolled in something unmentionable or not olfactorily tolerable! 🀣 Because they shed constantly, dirty hair discards faster. Wipe down with a wet sponge and wipe dry then rub dry or blow dry. ● Groom through thoroughly to ensure creases are fully dried out ... as damp matted fur patches can lead to bacterial 'hotspots' forming very quickly, causing scratching, crusty smelly sores & a costly vet visit. (Shaving & exposing these areas dries them out faster, Leucillin spray has been reported as good to use, or ACV - good to dab on, and when crusty coconut oil - antibacterial/antifungal) ... The small damp top area of a hotspot belies the much bigger area affected under so shaving to expose the fully affected area is the only way to let it dry out and apply a mild steroid cream &/or oral meds. Cone on dog to stop them scratching/licking. Fur grows back in approx 2 months... πŸ˜πŸ€— Cont .. 2 of 3 ... Husky facts... ●Leg circulation - blood temps regulated so the blood does not go to the core (like ours then causing frostbite) or hypothermia, but stays at 2Β°C so no freezing up on those long distance race/or runs. Booties are used to prevent injuries on Rocky ground or packed/cutting ice). They are worn to protect not warm. However : NB : frostbite can & does occur in the sickly, injured or because of skin pawpad breaks (eg, from skid burns) in skin incl those in weather (but not) weather acclimatised domestic huskies. url=http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky] http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/dog-health-breeds-survive-subzero-temperatures-malamute-samoyed-husky[/url] https://www.huskyhouse.org/husky/ ... Cont 3 of 3 3 of 3 Husky Facts cont .... ●Tail - the beautiful 'Swish' curl allows them to curl up in snow and breathe in warm air blown out with tail over nose/muzzle. ● Paws - furry padded to keep warm too... and grip ● Nails - in a husky these can extract to grip on ice conditions (for climbing rock face and trees too - it has been recorded - but how they get down.. I don't know!) No other breeds are known for this... https://iheartdogs.com/all-about-huskies-8-fun-facts-you-may-not-have-known/ I'm still finding out more after six+ years... [emoji847][emoji16] enjoy! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Husky Owners mobile app www.successdogs.com - πŸ€— Personal input, relevant to wannabe husky owners.... Some jolly good tips here - on Siberians..training, is this breed right for you? Consider very carefully, as you read all of this! However .. I disgree with using ANY furminator that cuts hair. ● Never EVER do this to a husky breed except for medical/health reasons. https://shibashake.com/dog/siberian-husky-facts End Marianne
  14. Where are you based? I'm near J9 M5. Maz
  15. I learned from a professional - Vicki Pullin of Arctic Quest very near me, who races her hounds & huskies for GB : Do not run dogs within four hours of eating food ... OR feed them within one hour after running. Start building muscle and stamina with walks, brisk, and gradually lengthen distances. If bikejoring, scooter or rig running, start with 1/4 mile sprints. Rest and repeat. Increase after 5 days, if continual runs are daily. Carry water, always. Check pads when home for any injuries, cracked pads or sore feet. Paw wax is useful to protect as is coconut oil. Good luck! Dark tongues = low 02 levels. Enlarged pink/darker pink tongues are normal, these help them cool off. Adding water to food (esp with kibble) will definitely help ensure they are hydrating. Temperatures NOT to run in: if over 12Β°C [53.6F], too warm. if T + Humidity =100 then not safe. Humidity over 60/80 will make your dog struggle because there is much less oxygen present. Running them with a motorised scooter is fine, but avoid prolonged periods on hard, paved or concrete surfaces as this is bad for their joints. Variable surfaces are good eg, paved/concrete, grass, packed earth...gravel may prove uncomfortable plus unstable.
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