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Maz51 last won the day on November 6 2018

Maz51 had the most liked content!

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About Maz51

  • Rank
    Valued Contributor
  • Birthday 09/27/1951

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  • Real Name
    Marianne Cottee, nee Chambers, Mayes, (adopted) Mayhook (born Rasmussen)
  • Location
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  • Occupation
    Retired: Theatre Nurse; Med/PA secretary; nearly 10 years as VR in Sea and Air Cadets;
  • Biography
    Born Denmark. Two siblings - recently discovered via DNA that we all have different fathers! both parents now passed. (I found at 58yrs five months after father's demise that I was adopted by him from children's home (born out of wedlock)aged nearly 4)and sister's father was also mine but...DNA genetic testing via 123andMe.com shot that down last year. NO worries - they were amazing parents.
    My husband looked at my striken face saying - 'You're not the woman I thought you were!' ROFL.... then
    Schooled in Oz. Grew up on a farm with eccentric mum/pioneer who introduced 5,000 new chicken stock into North Borneo.
    We also rescued several hundred dogs, cats - kittens & puppies out there and looked after orang-utans (48 over 8 years) otters, anteaters, mousedeer, gibbons, macaques, parrots, heron, African Grey, rats and bats (my pets) slow lorris', horse (retired young racehorse from Ireland/Singapore, rescued circus pony and other unusual animals. Rescued baby crocs from the pot too.
    Moved house 38 times.
    Moved to UK Dec 1969.
    School Ed. ended at 13.
    Nursing studies 1972-76 and Post grad nursing course in Theatre at Charing Cross following six months night duties at Guy's.
    Since then I studied and worked and hold about 8 'A' levels through my nursing, VR work (received my Diamond Jubilee medal)and private studies incl RSA course in Secretarial studies at Bracknell College and an Anaesthetic/Theatre perioperative practitioner (all rounder) Refresher Course at UWE.
    I hold Car, Motorbike and Coach licences. Also via VR Sea Cadets: RYA Day Skipper, Power Boat and safety certs, ME II, FAW Instr & Assessor (within MS-SC, music - snare drum and brass.
    Many varied jobs incl coach driving between divorces... No. 3 is brill. No 1 set precedence in divorce law lol - Mayes vs Mayes '83/'84 - was mentally ill. Has two grown children with whom I am still in touch albeit twice a year.
    Three kids - Daughter (32)is in top of DnB DJ - 'Missrepresent' - sadly we don't talk much - she is manic depressive like her father but I love her and am very proud of her.
    Two sons from No 2 - now 22 and 24 both settling with lovely girlfriends and in decent jobs - design engineering machinery. Also staying close by for extra cupboard food!!
    They get on very well with my Dave.
    Their father and step mum near too but not 'close' in true sense however loyal - and they have a younger half brother.
    You will see my background on dogs - via my WHW breeding etc...on forum posts.
    I mean well but know I can come across quite strong & opinionated - a chip off my mother's block!! Very determined strong woman.
  • Interests
    Brass Band. Musher, Cruiser & caravan camper.

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  1. Sounds very like Andy has a point. When at home take note how often he goes outside. Is he *intact or ^neutered? If the former* get his prostate checked as this is quite common in older dogs; as is a higher risk of prostate cancer. If the latter^ then check frequency - he may have a bladder infection. Kefir with cranberry juice for a week 2tblspn K (start with one for three days with Cranberry J Β½ cup incr to two of K. I give mine K daily and once a month add Cranberry J instead of water to their kibble & semi raw feed - for three days. Twice a week they get raw egg plus crushed in egg shells (extra calcium) 1 tspn ACV (for their immune system. Another reason may be anxiety - or separation anxiety IF other factors (ie, * or ^ are relevant). Also, IF you feed them within a hour of you going out for four hours, this may through older age also be a cause if his bowels/bladder fill up faster, through anxiety/adrenaline / as he knows you're leaving. A refresher in SA - this has worked on all my three but tbh Blu wasn't very bad having company with my two, once they all settled in. My timeline (album/videos) has a subject on SA & how I dealt with this on all my three - to be fair my new boy Blu was pretty chilled - but he will grab loose books, papers to shred given half a chance, but so will my girl or Chester. πŸ˜‰ This breed is a companion, more than just a pet-@-home. So, here goes ... SA prevention/Removing SA 'exercise': When you can take them with you, do so. Let them see you from the car, (not in temps over 10Β°C because it rises +6Β°C inside a car) with you going in, & out of shops. Observe casually behind sunglasses, but also from inside th'e shops, not looking directly at them. There should be enough 'distractions' going on around too which gets their focus off you, especially if you've parked in the high street, but where they're not out-of-sight. I never leave my vehicle 'o-o-s' with them in although my 'camper' van now, can hide them, when they're in their crates, from outside peeking. The purpose is, they see you in and 'out of sight' for brief periods, but you gradually increase these periods. This is not a one-off exercise, but will be several, over & in a few times in a few weeks. If they start getting restless or behind to howl/show distress, 'magically' appear, and walk relaxed towards the car, and around it as if checking vehicle. Before opening any doors/rear hatches, get them to 'Sit!' with words of praise when they do; REWARD. Check they are still secured inside (as per UK 2014 HIGHWAY CODE UK for transporting pets/animals in cars). Ensure they learn & follow in 'Sit/Wait' mode while you unclip from inside . Gather all leads securely /clip on to your canibelt (●very advisable to have, to prevent ever dropping leads if they make a sudden dash out, or anywhere). Beware of close moving traffic if on high street/motorised area where you are parked & ensure they cannot put a 'butt' out into the traffic or move into that pathway. Check traffic and then 'OK' to let them exit. I cannot stress how important it is that, when you go to get them out of the car, (anywhere) for a walk, teach them 'Wait' .. to stop & sit while you detach from seat belt hook up strap, and gather up leads. It IS safer to wear a canibelt with hookup on a locking swivel carabiner; hands are free but still able to grab lead/s to bring in close. Then go to Costa/Starbucks, or any dog friendly establishment, sit outside; this is good for socialising and exposing to much more, than just being at home. Meet & Greet folk. Desensitise to other dogs - distract them with 'here' & treat/reward. This is great for all training (including working on recall) and 'Down!' - may save their life... Use & say 'watch me' with fingers up to your eyes, and reward when they turn to look AT your eyes and refocus on you. πŸ€— Repetition ++++ It takes 30 reps to sink an instruction in. Then more to create (hopefully) a reflex muscle action ... but never stop. It's harder to break a bad /slack habit than to make one. Successdogs Absolutedogs Outback Dog Training Pages When I can physically manage & I put time aside, I repeat this process every so often. In the month. Getting them to meet and greet folk plus training to not be dog aggressive also helps. My girl wears a yellow marked bandana with "I Am Dog Aggressive Please Keep Your Distance" AND a lead slide on with "In Training". πŸ€—
  2. Tbh - using anyone else to cover your studies & research kinda takes the 'all my own work' out of it. Beware of plagiarism too; study & read up, but use your own words - as if telling another person how you interpret those conclusions, & summarise .. in brief. Find backup articles. Use only reliable medical recorded facts off acknowledged sites & science/medical based forums, but if in doubt research any you doubt yourself. See if you can find a vet near you by reputation, to maybe spend some time with the practice. You will have learnt now, how to reference I'm sure, in correct order sequence quoting each site, date and specific author/s as per your task. There is a wealth of information via GOOGLE, just note every article, refs, date and by name & date as well as when you found it. Reshare your original post on FB husky forums. Personally I believe many in rescue orgs have differing experiences, and opinions but remember to stick with facts. Looking at trainers' sites may also give a better insight as I m sure many dogs come to them for rehabilitation if stressed or traumatised from circumstances, whether hurt in accidents, attacked, abused or neglected. Both physical and mental abuse can cause many behavioural problems not visual or known to another person, fosterer, adopter or owner. MC
  3. So sorry for your loss and trauma. Please muzzle your poor husky to prevent further harm to your other pets, but also to humans reoccurring. Or separate dogs in turn by crating, until things settle... Look at Green Cuisine cbd oil. Sold globally from Holland. British founders. Purest out there and safe. Write to the founders & makers of this on their site. Three drops under the tongue. GC will guide you further. xx Seizures can give severe pain causing rage and aggression.
  4. Hi there... First let me give some much respected names (IMO) in the husky community outside of the Husky Owners'. They can be found on FB. Gail Parton - has a pack of 35-38 Malamutes. She breeds conscientiously, and the trust, respect, adoration, and love between her and her pack is two way. Her hikes with 25 or more Malamutes, off lead, in the Northern mountainous parts of US are awesome. Dangers are there with mountain lions, & kills she has come across and how her Mals behave around her around those kills. Ask her your question; she has personal experience through observing how her pack (seniors) react. TJ Wolf - also on FB - has written a lot too, in close up behaviour of huskies & their interaction with him as their human. He also runs them off his home-made low down dryland three wheeler. Nathaniel Jonathan Hayes - also on FB and competitive husky sites for sledding, endurance racing. Rob Cooke - several times participant and finisher in Yukon Quest runs, and the Iditarod Runs - search Nome Village saving 1825 - withTogo & Baltic. Rob has a huge pack, and teams of 18. Ali Bradley/SiΓ’n Murdy have a home pack of eight huskies. They both compete with one, two or more dogs. With seven huskies when their first child was born, I have watched in awe how the pack united in the protection and, acceptance of young Rowan, and under the watchful eyes of his parents, how Rowan is growing up and involved with them all. I don't know the circumstances re their separation, however, Rowan is very much a part of both their lives. I believe he is around three or four years old. Ali also has reptiles. I started with my first HuskyxMalamute in November 2012. Having grown up around many rescued strays through my childhood in the Far East, and even more in Sandakan & Brunei before moving to the UK, I learned one thing: Trust, respect, and loyalty must be reciprocal. I firmly believe if any one of these are fractured, or damaged/destroyed between man & dog, the loyalty to the one who feeds them will most likely prevail, in a huge or, minimal level, regarding protection from dog to human. This is relevant especially to whether training is positive or negatively implied. And P+ P- work together in using positive reward with positive but a negative affect FOR a positive effect in training. Jay Gray - Obsidian K9 Acedamy; on FB. K9 Dog Training is another site in Surrey, UK that train using a specially chosen breed that looks GSD but I believe is Mallinois. There is also another named breed too which is imported. These are trained specifically to guard their human/s whether individually, or the whole family, and will attack. Would-be owners are also trained in the right teachings and correct handling of their prospective guard dog/s, by that organisation. It is especially aimed at the rich, famous or valuable personnel whose families are or may be under threat from kidnappers seeking property, reward or ransom. I would love one of these, however as a breed for work in guarding, I believe it may be unfair if it was not utilised fully within it's specific-bred environment. Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com Outback Dog Training Pages. These sites also show how positive reward training brings about a loyal, loving companion (they're not your traditional 'pet') and, yes guarding instincts whether through vocal, aggression, or physically body blocking their human from danger. I have witnessed this in ALL my dogs, from rescued terrified defending strays grown confident & protective, Boxers, (stolen but found by me through very gritted determination), and how THEY both changed in behaviour around me when I became first pregnant. Plus, guarding my newborn daughter on her first day home (I was away ten days, post caesarean section) and, surprisingly, rejecting well known family friends to come near her crib ! Only until I told them it was 'ok, back' did they step back. However, they remained incredibly watchful with every visitor. (I did not train them in this. They simply started). They took turns to patrol the corridor to our bedroom in a large bungalow, every few minutes, when we were relaxing in the sitting room. I've seen this with my own Westies; Polly a mum of four at that time, entrusted me to her young newborn however kept other young family members away by growling. I assisted in all her deliveries. I train my dogs, even from the first day in, with a new rescue/rehome. Home and behaviour rules are therefore set from day one ... my pack may vocally disrupt, even appear to argue with me, however, the quieter my voice, more definitively used hand signals, they 'agree' to do as I ask. Patience and persistence ... not giving in through a simple repeated request, and stopping any other behaviour using 'time out' or, complete rejection (being placed into another room, or crate in solitary confinement for even five minutes) lays down "I'm boss", with no pain, fear or negative infliction. I firmly believe : Punishment by pain/abuse, creates fear of pain. And absolute trust is splintered straight away. Fear creates more and a wary defensive reaction, eyes watch the hand that hurt, cowering. If pain/punishment continues, then defensive mode kicks in to 'stay away' but the 'bad behaviour' that caused the punishment continues because nothing was taught to stop it (eg, barking outside). Further abuse and pain then leads to defense, and finally aggressiin/attack to make it stop. Then a young dog is put out, abandoned, euthanized, or if lucky, into a rescue org, or safe pound. Not a good start. Their logic & reasoning is pain, hurt, fear, so don't let it happen anymore. It takes 30 reps to train a husky.. and then repetition training, to reinforce the 'right's behaviour through P+. IT can take 90 reps of good behaviour to break a bad one, ie biting, aggression, and, above to regain TRUST. However trust from a human is one thing. Trust BACK to the human should I believe form a new bond with both. That baggage of pain, may never leave, however involving a consistent level of 'the right way' in training will go far to bury those demons. So, Reward in a pat, voice, game or even a treat reassures I accept them. Challenges arise on any day when something seems more important or desirable to any one of them, whether to have to stay & wait, or even howl & pace .. but they may not leave 'that space'! Training is fun and always eye opening. Mine have learned to run by my mobility scooter, although two have pulled my dryland running rig. Until my neck surgery happens, I cannot now do the rig runs. They have been trained in basic mushing commands and watch anyone carefully we approach or are passing by on ahead. Generally friendly, my girl is a true flirt, but does bodyblock; my young boy Blu is very protective, my older boy sits back in 'silent' guard mode. All eyes watching. If my dogs are not responding favourably to someone new, I'm on guard too & cut the 'meet n greet' short. Their instinctual behaviour IS my best warning to beware. Look into how domestication of the wild ancestors of the Siberian Husky, with the Chukchi Nomads, who domesticated this breed which then played a part in defending the camp, also hunting for their own food but receiving scraps from the tribe, travelling with the camp, but also sleeping & guarding the babies, infants & children on extremely cold nights. Now believed to go back over a few thousand years since they first trod this planet. In the last few years, bones have been found throwing out information of just three thousand years ago of the existence that huskies go back 30,000 years. The husky originates from the Spitz. Research. There is very little dna evidence with wolves, and the geneology is fascinating involving the wolf, fox, other specie but thst dna lineage dividing as well. I do personally believe the husky is as purebred a 'dog' specie compared to any other canine breed now. Cross breeding is abhorrent in my eyes as is the 'designer dog' for financial greed. No responsibility is considered to the awful health & life of badly chosen cross breeds, let along further passing of genetic/dna inherited health faults. Too many to list. Below is a screenshot, with some info but I def read on a respected site (not Wikepedia) that it is possible much longer than 3,000 years. https://www.nbcnews.com/sciencemain/ancient-dna-suggests-european-hunters-tamed-first-dogs-2D11591252 The review on intelligence is interesting, and very sadly this trait is unresearched and underestimated, reflecting in the hundreds of huskies/similar type breeds that are abandoned around four to six months or older. I am now 68. I never stop learning, seeing & witnessing fascinating behaviour between my three. I've been bitten badly during the rescue of my old Westie and my first young HuskyxMal Chester, aged then around seven months. Also by an abused *foster dog on day four. Chester wanted Wesley's bone, having finished his. Wesley rightly refused and a fight ensued. My hand had a ripped layer off the back of my hand as I was lifting Wesley away and up. Chester caught my hand in the attempt to get to Wesley, who promptly turned and bit into my knuckles in reflex as I picked him up! Three days in hospital and cleansing out surgery, IV antibiotics. That *foster dog attack taught me much more but only after I found out important information on him had been deliberately withheld. Had I known more, I know I would not have been bitten because my training structure & approach would have been quite different. My casual training thereafter, changed, to a more structured effort, incI with mother Polly and myself towards all her puppies, who remained until min 22-14 weeks before setting off for new homes. I grew up in Borneo. My mother was a pioneer in bringing new chicken stock into Sandakan (from Australia; the three day old chicks arrived hatching enroute, by plane) to replenish local inbred & weak stock. We had around 3,500. Mum also took on a very poorly sickly orphaned baby orangutan, barely 2lbs in weight, around 1957. That started something else ... and we had nearly 50 over the next ten years as fosters, in our care, plus our own Winnie (that very first one) who survived a #skull, dysentery and Sprue. (https://rarediseases.org β€Ί rare-diseases Tropical Sprue - NORD (National Organization for Rare Disorders) The return to normal intestinal structure and function may be slower if treatment is begun later in the course of the disease. https://emedicine.medscape.com β€Ί 1... Celiac Disease (Sprue): Practice Essentials, Background, Pathophysiology Celiac disease, also known as gluten-sensitive enteropathy, is a chronic disease of the digestive tract that interferes with the digestion and absorption of food nutrients. People with celiac disease cannot tolerate gliadin, the alcohol-soluble fraction of gluten . https://medlineplus.gov β€Ί article Celiac disease - sprue: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopedia ) We also had Sun Bears, Clouded Leopards, Macaques, Slow Loris', many different birds, adopted, rescued or wild; many also were re-released. Otter orphaned kits x 3 which were bottle reared. Turkeys, breeding, as well as Gloucester Spot pigs. A rehomed young racehorse retired early, a circus pony saved from cruel captivity. Baby fruit bats too, found having fallen onto the floor of a Guantaneman cave I visited on a trip with my younger brother. They would have perished or been eaten. I brought them home in a handkerchief, cared for these for a week, dropper feeding them and warmth with a towel wrapped hot water bottle. One of the eight died, but the rest thrived and were released. We also had rescued Giant land tortoises x 2, and and injured Anteater. Anyway, I digress. πŸ™…β€β™€οΈ Reaction to protect and guard, I believe is instinctual to the nurtured cared-for husky and mutually protected species, whether fully domesticated, or minimally (with intent to release back into their natural habitat). https://www.smartpettoysreview.com/huskie-intelligence-making-good-pets/ The pharaohs had their own breed. Huskies are incredible, compared to any other breed I've had or known. FYI Nose - avoids freezing by drying up in subzero temps. Turns pink in winter = snow nose. Are now being used to find drugs and other items. Muzzle - can sense raised temps on ice where this may be dangerous to walk over. Unique trait to this breed. Lead dogs have saved many a musher and his team. They teach the youngsters too. Eyes - multiple coloured eyes incl tri coloured eyes. Blue is due to a genetic change in the eye pigmentation. Purebred Malamutes only have Brown or Amber eyes. Their eyes are almond shaped, can squint in blizzards, to still see, and their eye physiology has been found they are devoid of Tapedum, which prevents snow blindness. Very expressive too; mine use these sparingly to beg, ask, ignore, or look at me admiringly (usually whenever any food is about!) Head, incorporating extremely high [and underestimated] intelligence, the ability to think before acting, and...applying LOGIC. Very fast learners within the right training environment. Ears - the Siberian Husky is THE only true Husky breed. There are many other husky 'types'. Their ears are higher set in relaxed mode than a Malamute. The Alaskan Malamute was bred to pull far heavier loads, ie, as a work horse for haulage. Their larger body mass takes longer to cool down after extreme exercise. The Siberian Husky is light of foot, so can traverse more easily over fallen snow whereas the Malamute steps in deeper but has the strength & stamina to work steadily through this. Digestion - Unique also in how they can run if necessary for several days without food, breaking down their own bodies safely, for more energy. Humans go into ketosis if starving. The husky's digestion used to take only seal or whale blubber, being able to convert this into a full nutritional meal. They also ate raw frozen fish. Over the years domesticated huskies' diet has changed completely. They would not tolerate that blubber now. However, they do not carry enzymes to digest/break down gluten, wheat, maize (uncooked, and require a higher percent of protein in their diet. Certain fruits & vegetable are safe. Raisins & the grape family are toxic, along with other things. Legs - Their legs maintain a min 2Β°C temperature so do not freeze (unless wounded by injury) and have thick fur between their pads. Nails can actually 'grip' into ice to aid stability and speed. Coat - double coated after approx six months, there are three lengths. Short furry, Med furry and long Woolly. The outer guard hairs protect from extreme cold, and sun. It should never be shavedvor cut unless for medical reasons. It sheds constantly, hence one of eight cleanest breeds. Within hours of a mucky dog, whether from bloody bones to running through mud, they are practically if not wholly pristine! The undercoat is their 'eiderdown jacket' enveloping the whole body. In times of plenty, and/or seasonal temperature changes, this will 'blow' in huge amounts over several weeks with a sleeker slim appearance until the new undercoat is established. Grooming regularly maintains a healthy breathing coat (avoiding hot spots). They can withstand temps to minus 50Β°C. They can & do adapt in equatorial climes, but require diligent care with shade, cool air, and water. Their belly is very furry but longer/lighter than body coat above - this also stops nipples freezing, as in shorter haired dogs with a smooth almost hairless belly. This may well account for many belly-up positions if our huskies - they cool off faster. Huskies dig out a 'den' in deep snow to stay below the icy winds. The famous 'Swish Curl' of tail when making themselves small, covers their nose, to allow warm air escaping to warming the air breathed in. Huskies carry their tails high and in a curl. To other breeds this often causes attack because it indicates (wrongly) dominance. A Siberian Husky tail normally doesn't curl full circle. A Malamute's tail is tighter and touches down on the back or hangs slightly off centre to the side. Their tails 'perk up', sitting higher, when happy striding out on a walk, in that comfortable swaying sinuous body motion. Please don't hesitate to contact me if needed. Have to go for now.. much to do. Marianne aka Maz Chester (@ 2) with new girl friend Eskimoo (2Β½) - first day for her (rehomed). My WHW terriers, Polly Perkins (L) & Wesley her KC reg'd Champion, Dad. He was at stud. Polly was mated with KC stud dogs from Wales. Cruising Dogs.. Chester & Eski. New long run, shelters on decking, with a new patio decking isolating muddy conditions from the lawn to keep bungalow cleaner. They have 24/7 outside access. Eski Chester Eski Training time Play time with new boy Blu (then 16 mths) L Blu Chester & Eski know the ropes - 2014 L-R from top. Kuala Lumpur or, Tauwau, with mum Henny Mayhook, bro' Peter and one dog. On the beach with Moses. Dad & Winnie, Bro Peter age 9, new house & car (in Brunei) with Dad in new business. Small hairy companion: Chumley with me age 15yrs. Landslide outside our home, Flagstaff House, Sandakan, North Borneo, ... with Dad & Peter. Half Sister Vivi, with little friend; Dad (he adopted my sister at around 8 yrs old, and later 10 yrs, me); Dad with Winnie, in all three. My biological Mum with Peter who is Dad's son. I think I just joined the family, from Denmark from a children's home where I had been after a premature birth. I was then nearly 4 yrs old.
  5. Ok, so little & often. Go out in the car - ensure he is in a harness & secure to a seat belt clip. You can look at Indi-dog for dog tack - or, initially a small crate secured in the back seat will keep him safe. Find a cafe where you can sit outside, or a dog friendly pub. Let him sit close by & just watch what's going on around him. Meet n greet folk too, so he gets used to 'nice' folk. Is he chipped, and wearing a licence dog tag with ID on too, plus your contact number? This must be on his collar, but another on his harness won't hurt either. Let him desensitise & get accustomed to the world of many car rides, feet, ppl, dogs, buggies, and traffic. I cannot stress puppy classes enough.. he NEEDS to meet others in his age group, so he sees all kinds. The training & games you do at home will help him bond. Look at umbilical cord tethering too - so good. Those sites I gave you are for watching learning and applying! Crate training is vital for him to have HIS safe place. And for you to pop him into if you have workmen/dog-shy visitors. A crate covered β…“ over the top will give him this, tucked into a corner or certainly against a wall. Separation anxiety can be reduced (when he's around 5 to six months) or removed, by taking him out in the car, parking in the high street (NOT in summer heat) with windows open for ventilation & you moving in & out of shops, but he can see you. He'll also have other stuff to look at. As you pop out of sight but YOU can see him, see how he responds.. when he starts to get upset, move back quickly, don't overfuss, but reward with a treat, & 'good boy wait' then ask him to 'Wait' again, while you gather his lead, unclip from the seatbelt (these leads are on Amazon) and take him out for a walkabout. Don't forget poop bags πŸ˜‰πŸ‘ Repeat the exercise over the week, not necessarily every day. Leave radio on & a filled Kong to occupy him when you leave, at home, without overly fussing. Keep your early exits as brief as possible, & gradually extend periods out. Maz xx
  6. How old is he? Best way to introductions for pups is, keep your distance, and keep outings brief. Only 15 mins walk out time per month of age. If you can go to quieter places, but find a playmate he can meet too, this can so help. Sadly pups leaving mum at 8 or 9 weeks does not give them ANY chance to develop, learn manners within the litter pack or from mum. This makes them lack in confidence, and scared of any new experiences. Babies/toddlers can go through this too. Find out from your vet on puppy/socialising classes ASAP & get him to meet others in his age group. Also, start doing some training/play games ASAP so he focuses on you, not the big scary world out there. Training needs to start early with this bright intelligent breed, as they can become bored and naughty, and/or destructive. My three have their own website & I hope you'll visit Chester and Eski and Blu of Tewkesbury @mythreehuskxmalamutes I'm happy to help with tips & training what DOES & HAS worked for me over seven years with this breed, but also a lifetime of many other breeds, and species of animals. And ensure his vaccinations & worming are up to date - esp the latter as these need doing a bit more often in his first year. πŸ€—πŸ˜˜ Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com Outback Dog Training Pages Good luck, Maz
  7. She so needs your company and this breed is like no other! .. if you can take time off over a few days, do so.. and if you have a partner who can help share with you in time off, staggered... CRATE TRAINING Also on ● Out back Dog Training Page Troy recommend that crate training is vital - to a) give your dog their own 'den' and space. b) keep them contained if you need them out of the way - XL crate for enough room but ensure it's the length of their body, nose to tail base. c) for 'time out' if their behaviour is undesirable, and you give 'rejection' time; eg, if biting, being rowdy & not listening, behaving badly. Three to five minutes, ... bring back in and observe. If they repeat, simply clip on lead and walk them (no words), back to crate, unclip, put in, and close door. May take two or three goes, but they get it pretty fast. Hi and welcome. My training with this regime was this and it works very well ... take it or leave it xx To introduce any dog or pup to something new, you need to go slow & steady; the first thing you do and when you have a few days clear, you start from the beginning; you throw a treat into the crate (which can be partly covered over the top 1/3rd to create a 'den' or snug ... and you then wait for him or her to go in; as soon as they start to pick it up and eat, you close the door quietly. When they've finished you praise them and say 'good dog! in bed,' and then you let them out; you leave it for a while and you repeat the process, all the time leaving them just a little bit longer so they begin to realise (and trust) it is not a bad place but it's a safe place for them to go and they can get a treat at the same time; if they're really good and stay, wait for them to look at you and then say 'yes! come' and when they come out with encouragement, you reward and praise. Gradually, you can keep increasing the time span and you can walk away for a few seconds; this takes quite a few days and up to 30 repetitions to start getting it ingrained into them, that it's a safe place to go. Later you go out of sight but just increase the seconds to minutes very slowly. If they don't have 24/7 access outside it is actually harder. My two dogs will go in and sit in the crate; they have an individual crate box now, so the three of them are contained. I don't want or need them for long-term but I can put them all in and they settle down to wait. I don't have to lock them indoors when I go out because they have access 24/7 to outside to a very large run with outdoor shelters however, all the doors in my bungalow are shut and just one door from the inner hall to kitchen is open so there is just access for them in there, (around two crates area & one on top) and the kitchen; If that's the best way out of the house and your garden is secure, ie with 6 ft high fences then you could install a dog flap and if it's secure enough, that they can't get over or out, and nobody can get in (so ensure there are locks on Gates etc), then you should feel reasonably safe with them being able to exit via a dog flap. I would also work on this going out of the house for short periods making it all a 'no big deal'. Giving them a frozen carrot in their crate just before you go gets them focused on this. Put the radio on, remove any edibles off counters (bread & fruit in oven or microwave πŸ˜‰) and ensure the bins are not accessible - I put a strip of tape on my bin lol. I used to have a strong silent closing one (as mine would suss out a sensor opening bin in no time)! The repetition training (for all training in new stuff) has to continue with encouraging them to go into the crate; if you're looking to shut them in long term when you go to work and @ bedtime, that's going to take longer, especially as they are not pets - they want to be near you as a companion; mine sleep in the hall outsiand a roomy one is important, de the bedroom door but they have access in once my husband goes to work and then they can come up and join me on the bed; I have a throw over it. Use, for all the training skills ... and disciplines - positive reward training. πŸ€— Good luck! I will post a separate one on SA.. Separation Anxiety, for you.. which she also seems to have ... but she's a baby.. they take longer to mature, but are incredibly affectionate.. as I said more a companion than a pet. They are also better with a playmate or more too. Training. Is. So. Important. With this breed.. and you must start as early as possible - so intelligent! {Many forums out there to help you in "anything husky" pls.. Husky Owner's Forum. S.A. Hi This just might help those new pups & any owner's with furkids with SA. Be aware it's not an overnight solution, day or two even... If at all possible, split some time off from work, between you both, on this... Here's what I did with my boy, and girl.. and I was/am retired. SA - SEPARATION ANXIETY I remembered this when I got my first HuskyXMal, Chester, at nine weeks; he was around six months old when I started. Did this for several weeks 2-3 times a week.. and, I do think this helped his worry cease when I went out and couldn't take him.. he knows I'll be back! He doesn't howl now when we're out; only maniacally ... when I return! (You'd think he'd be hysterical with joy but can be heard screaming as if in raucous pain! And the longer I'm out the worse it sounds). There's just a little wooo-oo I've heard from either one as I go to the car .. and my neighbours say they're quiet.. (unless he's shut himself in a room!) They still greet us very loudly when we pull up on the drive; Chester is up at the sink (and my foster boy Blu is now too (8 weeks in), and looking at us through the window - and howling. It sounds like the Hounds of Baskerville every time. Maybe it's an idea for you folks worrying over furkids with SA .... starting with trips out, but good for travelling and socialising them too - esp at a sit-outside Costa or other Cafe. πŸ˜‰πŸ˜ This breed really just want to be near you.. as mine do - anywhere! They are very correctly defined as a wanting to be more of a 'companion' ... not a pet. Taking them anywhere/everywhere you can, in the early days, as this really helps them adjust to being with you, but, also being left in the car .. BUT (NOT ever IN THE HEAT OF SUMMER - better at home); winter temps are good but windows still need to be open three inches, and within sight of you.. around lots of people & some dogs too, and when it's colder like now, it is also brilliant to erase or, at least reduce, SA. NB: This is for training de-sensitisation exercises initially! I did this in town in the High Street... plenty of activity with folk passing by and distractions, too ... plus me being out of sight too. I would go in & out of shops, for seconds, and then over more trips, increasing the times out of sight, but watching through the shop window... if they looked restless, or about to howl, I would get back to the car, take them out, and walk round for a bit, meet n greet, then back into car, maybe walk in/out of a few more shops within their eyesight, and then take them home. The more distractions/people/ activity there is, the better. Parking in the High Street, is better than a car park .. as, you can see them. I don't like them in the car out of sight from me. And .. regardless of where I go, I always ensure they 'Wait' ..until I say 'OK' .. to exit. This command WAIT is REALLY important for safety, esp. if parked in a busy High Street with close-by passing traffic. (It's worth checking no dogs are around or you could be knocked over!) I repeatedly do this safety action word ... so, they have learned & obey, to 'Wait' and not leap out while I get their leads, unclip from restraints, then 'OK' to let them exit, praising both & giving them a reward. 'Wait' in sit or down position, wait, for dinner, so many uses for 'wait'. [ NB : I have inside leads clipped into seat belts or hooks in the boot area clipped to their harnesses, (NOT a Collar) as is the vehicle law since 2014. That 'Wait' also stops them leaping out loose into traffic before I've hooked them to my canibelt. (The inside clips are just beginning to work as they are realising they cannot get out). I also use 'Wait' on walks; ie, every curb side before we cross over is 'Whoa! Wait!... (while I check it's safe to cross) then 'Walk On' or 'OK'. They both hesitate at curbs now then stop as soon as I say 'Wait'! My boy Chester howls uncontrollably if either Eski or Blu go out separately (eg with me to vet check!)
  8. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks. http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~imw/Lulworth-Cove-Introduction.htm
  9. Maz51

    After camp...

    That should be great. Lulworth Cove is one of a fascinating place, as I've sailed in and moored there a couple of times with the Sea Cadets. All along that coast, there are interesting geoological interests in the coastline, plus many fossils in the rocks.
  10. Hi, just been informed ..ref dog not eating. Maybe a blended baby food? Have they tried Forthglade, Lovejoys? Albion comes frozen raw. Mix with Xcel 32%. Small nutritous kibble. Soak so mushy. But try tiny amounts. Or, try dry. A raw egg? Scrambled? They could mash in an egg with Kefir. Avoid cat food as it is higher in salt. She'll need hydrating, with fluids, either by IV or by a spoon tilted into side of mouth to trickle in water, frequently. Keep me informed please. Where are you? Hi Am simply sounding out... I gather all has been checked... Whose furkid is she & where? Has there been any recent (or past) trauma? ?Exposed to anything? I think constant time spent with her is vital. Just be there. Maybe, put food down for other woofs, in sight of her, plus food for her. Let her see them all tuck in; maybe she'll eat some too. Is her oesophagus clear? Not narrowed? No ulceration? Gums ok? No bad teeth, or a broken tooth - this alone will stop a dog eating if a nerve root is exposed. A second opinion. Otherwise IV feeding to hydrate her, and give her some nourishment. Maz More thoughts... What's her history? Where from, history prior to acquisition? How old was she when leaving litter pack? How old now? Spayed? Urine & bowels ok? (as they can be given current situation)? Any genetic or inheritance possibilities /DNA insight?
  11. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    There are some specific dog paw dip containers that let you clean their feet individually... see attachment, which I googled; copes with a cloth to wipe dry too..
  12. Maz51

    Husky fur stains

    I don't envy you, I had the same problems before I segregated my back garden into two. One long run at least 75' and 20' wide, with a concrete path (already there, gravelled areas, and decking, x 2 one at the back approx 3m sq with four big roomy shelters on it, and decking closer to the bungalow, (with a gate onto the lawn) again 3m sq for a patio area. The rear run can be gated off - it's about 40' X 20', stock wire fenced, + chicken wired on lower level at 1m. The concrete and gravel is a godsend. It's easier for poop pickups, (sometimes I miss stuff because of same colour!) However, no mud! I can choose when it's dry, to let them run zoomies, on the lawn but they do too in the big long run... The rear garden is at leadt two times+ the size of the bungalow footage, and the front is a good 45' X 30' too. The lawn needs filling & levelling too due to previously dug holes - it's very uneven. The quote for this is too much atm as money has had to go out on replacing broken down & old cars. We took out a small loan & after a five year dream I have something so useful and pleasing! I sit out most days in summer; often we eat out there too with a table, Brolley and comfy chairs I love it! The shelters have fresh hay put in at intervals and even yesterday, although cool, it was lovely out in the sunshine! The patio decking area has a BBQ. Bench, swing chair, and can take a popup gazebo easily, if weather is likely to become inclement. If you can separate an area even if it's an L shape for the dogs, for more running room and you have the other section only, grassed, and fenced off, and (or artificial turf), it should help. I know slabs are an option, but with many dogs, good drainage for pee needs to be considered, and maybe have it slightly sloped to go into a drain, connected to your own drains. Sluicing down is then a practical solution too. πŸ€—
  13. That is absolutely right! Well done. It's like, slow, slow with any / all new stuff. We ourselves can get used to many things because we can rationalise. Dogs need to learn through repetition that what might be threatening or scary because it is NEW can then become the norm, after repeated exposure, for it to become ... 'Oh that! No worries, because it's no threat!'
  14. Focus training (him to you) will definitely help.. Umbilical cord training too Research this online. Successdogs.com Absolutedogs.com πŸ€—
  15. Hi & Welcome to this awesome group. My rescue/rehome girl came with +food guarding, alot, plus possessiveness, and jealousy.Seriously. I used basket muzzles in early training to avoid injuries, but I could also reward GOOD behaviour through these via the side. They all learned to take treats introduced through the side. All of these traits went to lack of proper training from a pup, growing up around other similar (untrained) minded dogs, and possibly ?SA and/or insecurity. I started training when I got her. She was two and a half years old, two weeks post spay, and wearing a cone. My boy Chester had come at nine weeks, and was just a few days' shy of his second birthday. As he kept 'jumping' her, he went in to be neutered, too, three days after Eski came, so both were in cones. I had the free E-Book downloaded from Successdogs.com and started with Sit, on both, with a small treat visible in each hand. (They are both food oriented). ● Rewarding within three seconds IS IMPORTANT. (It takes 30 repetitions to get a new command 'IN' and repeat it several times, daily). A treat for every good response. Ignore the bad, praise the good, incl this verbally, &/or with a clicker. Just keep asking quietly, (and using a hand signal) until they get it, and praise verbally when they get it right : "Yes! Good dog! Sit" or, whatever you asked. From Sit, we progressed to Down. From here, try the "Middle" game (on my fb timeline), from Absolutedogs.com I also did the hiding treat under foot... (successdogs.com) which gets them to focus ON you (eyeball to eyeball), not the treat on the floor. This now works on both. My boy is much more keen to play, learn and earn a reward, my girl is lazy. She's learned much through copy-catting, (however, KNOWS very well when she's done wrong, (ie, chewed up stuff ready to go round to the back bin/s), and shows absolute submissive and (comical) apologetic actions!) And she knoes I know she knows what to NOT do. She's very argumentative and vocal - well, Chester is too when I come home, & foster boy Blu (came Nov 25/2018) is now 17 months, nearly 18 months is just finding HIS voice. He has the most to learn, coming from one owner, increasing day hours in a 12' x 6' kennel and no polite respecting of pack etiquette, or around more than one hooman! Blu has a basically sound, sweet nature, however is over bouncy with excitement and learning hard and fast rules - which started* the night he came home. I also worked on 'Leave it!' with them, separately. Then 'Give' ie, to let go of a toy in exchange for a treat/ reward (work on this separately first) then with another furkid if you have them. Leave & Wait : (start with a three second 'Wait!') and slowly, day by day with the multi-repititions same day, increase the wait time each day. ● [ Wait! Is also vital when exiting the car, giving you time to unclip from in-car restraint, (UK 2014 law ref transporting all animals in your vehicle) and get your leads together/hooked on to canibelt. Also prevents escape, or running into traffic! ] From there, 'Bed, Time out', important if their behaviour is undesirable; this also means rejection - in the relevant situations. NOT meant when 'Bed' command is given, (to have them safely out of the way, into their crate). Again, crate training is on successdogs. Crate use is really important if you need your dog/s out of the way for visiting workmen, utility repairmen, dog shy visitors, and little humans and, infants FOR SAFETY and convenience. I reward mine through their crates, when they go in for this reason, and praise too "Good dogs, bed!" The "Bed, Time-out!" means rejection; ie, 'I don't want you here doing what you are doing!' However, to do this, YOU walk them on a lead OUT of the room to their crate, OR into a separate room, into isolation, & shut the door. All mine know that's for good reason, and know it is my 'rejection' of them due to their bad behaviour - ie, no treat when put into crate immediately the bad behaviour happens). Leave in for three to five minutes. Then bring them back out. If they repeat (any) undesirable behaviour, (You can say "No" and (silently) clip on lead and walk them back out again. WHEN they return, and ARE being 'nice and good', praise enthusiastically, AND reward "Good dog! Be Nice!" You both - ie, couples - need to work together on this, so they grasp where their place is in the family human pack. Young children can learn a lot just watching, as can other furkids in what you do. Older children need supervision if getting involved re training as positive reward training MUST be used always and only. [[ Shouting or striking -> fear. Fear -> defence -> aggression -> a snap, or worse, a bite, and, ultimately an attack if a strike (for a scolded action is given) and, human body /verbal language also triggers fear. ]] It won't all happen immediately re the behaviour you seek. If they get it wrong, or don't get it, go back to basics. It's not their fault. It is yours. 😐 You need TIME, patience, perseverance and planning (ahead) to achieve all these. Go to my timeline (videos) (some appear now to be mis-named, however you'll find my earlier and later ones showing how I worked. I use mushing terms when out walking, plus "Here" frequently to get them to refocus on me and turn round, come & sit in front, Sit &/or Down, or Paw on my lifted knee for a treat. Especially if I see another dog in the vicinity. Most folk cross the road, or, I move off the path if I can, to increase distance. When I can't walk out due to discomfort/pain in my neck, (severe crumbling bones to wear & tear) I resort to my mobility scooter. They've learned to keep paws away from front/rear wheels, and they stay on my canibelt approx level with the front, altho' I can bring them back parallel to me, or, they move behind, (command: 'Whoa, Wait') to let me through narrower spaces first. I can cover much longer distances with them, on this, and at varying speeds. Tires them out beautifully! Look at Absolutedogs.com too. Good luck! πŸ€—
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