Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2021 in Posts

  1. Hej! It's been absolute ages since I posted something here (although I occasionally logged in here), but I just wanted to post something at least! I can't believe it's been already this long ago since my camp visits. It was certainly loads of fun, even when I was not a dog owner myself back then. I always kind of hoped that *at some point* I would figure out a way to visit with my dogs but logistically, and time-wise this was never really an option for me, sadly. Even though it's been such a long time ago, I still have great memories of it. I met many fun people, and it certainly helped fueling my interest in huskies even more which eventually brought me all the way north, working and living at a sled dog kennel among many, many huskies. Thanks for providing the experience!
    4 points
  2. I blundered into to the World of Huskies with Logan. Found the forum and found the family. We would not have the crazy fur balls we have today without you all. Logan (RIP), Lucy, Ares and Khaos have loved every camp. As have we. Thank you for everything, decorating my caravan, , dressing me in nappies, baywatch suits & mankinis. Thank you all for being my friends, more like family.
    4 points
  3. As regulars will already know by now, it has come to the point where husky camp is no longer something that we are going to be doing as an official forum thing. This is something we have thought about, and has honestly been coming for a while. The 2 missed camps through covid, and the removal of main camp by the site we were using, has simply emphasised that fact. This and the fact we are getting to the point numbers are dwindling year on year, we have people who struggle to get about more, dogs who are getting a lot older in some cases, so even the walks at times are becoming more and more an issue. People now have children. As a history, camp started officially back in 2009 as "Husky holiday". There were only 8 of us at the time, and all in tents in the middle of a field. I will never forget Sarah shouting that day "I am never staying in a f**** tent again" not realising, she was in a tent and everyone laughed as they could hear LOL. It was good fun and escalated from there. We couldn't take Kaiser on much of a walk as he was only little at the time. Now he is an old man LOL By 2012, we were fund raising and running a competition to bring someone over from overseas to camp. We have brought over someone from the Netherlands, and 2 people from the USA, all through fund raising. At the 2012 camp there were over 100 people. It's the largest we had, and it was great fun. For all who were there, its likely not something they will ever forget. (I certainly won't). Most people were staying in caravans. We had all our own kit on the go, a central location for husky camp, organised walks, competitions, fun awards for camp things, silly games and more. So, now we are in 2022. This weekend consisted of 17 people, 15 of which have been for many years. 4 of these are the people who organise camp. It was always going to end at some point, and we feel now is that time. To me and Sarah personally, this community has been a great part of our lives for a long time. We started this forum because Sarah wanted to meet a couple of people with Huskies. Needless to say, it escalated. Our puppies who we wanted to be able to go on holiday with, are now old. Our family is now bigger. Our own circumstances have changed. We will see people again, no doubt. There are certainly some of you who I know will likely be back up here camping, getting caravans etc, and we will certainly come see people who do. But for us, the time has come to end camp where it began. With a few great friends, who are now lifelong friends. Thank you to every person who has ever attended a camp.
    3 points
  4. Gutted we never got chance to come to a main camp , but I've loved all the meet ups over the years too
    3 points
  5. I'll be on maternity leave then so maybe me and baby will try to make the trip down
    3 points
  6. Sorry to hear the news about beautiful Skyla, and I believe you have made the right decision - she has had the best life with you guys, just love her a bit more every day.
    2 points
  7. thanks for the memories my FRIENDS no FAMILY I should say...Love you all.... some more then others LOL...
    2 points
  8. Very sad but no one can take away the memories we have had over the years loved.
    2 points
  9. Great to meet everyone on the walk Saturday and on the camp site. Sorry now I only booked 2 nights. Hope to see you again next year. Looking forward to hearing about the next one. Thanks again. Ruth
    2 points
  10. Incoming in just a few months! For those I'm friends with on Facebook you'll already know this but sharing here also as this forum is like a big massive extended family Only this new pack member is not the furry kind 💙 Baby boy due 3rd January 2022
    2 points
  11. Well we didn't quite make it to January, 2nd Nov at 5:07pm Theodore was born, had a long 5 week stay in hospital but been home a week now ❤️ Met Blaze and Skyla but Blaze not that bothered so no pic of him yet lol
    2 points
  12. environmental allergies - these posts are a very good place to start. https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/5-signs-your-dog-has-food-allergies/ note, these are not the only signs! https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/natural-solutions-environmental-allergies-in-dogs/ https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/dog-allergies-quick-fix/ https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/seasonal-allergies-in-dogs/ https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/solutions-for-allergies/ Whether trying to treat environmental or food allergies - start with Bovine Colostrum (the cow is a 'universal donor' - suitable for all animals - even us) get organic. Another thing to get is dried nettle leaves - this will be mentioned in some of the posts I am sure. Dandelion leaves is also another good thing to get - this is mainly for any good gut bacterial left in your dog's intestines (their preferred food).
    2 points
  13. Amy - I am a qualified Raw Dog Food Nutrition Specialist - and I specialize in food allergies - although I may be able to make some suggestions for the environmental ones as well - give me an hour or so. There is ONE food allergy test in the UK that is 100% accurate and reliable - I know because I have a severely food allergic husky myself and he has had three of these tests over the last 4 years. My last charge for a test was £211 - not cheap - but it is the best. The test is called ALLERVET - they do both environmental and food allergies (differrent tests). The vet needs to take a blood sample and send it off for analysis - mine was done in Lancashire at a laboratory fairly close to where I live - it can take a week to 10 days. According to the NHS a blood test is the only reliable way to get accurate results. It differentiates between true allergies (IGE) and food intolerances (IGG) and also tells you whether it is Borderline, Postive or High Positive. True allergies (my boy has 9 of them) must be eliminated from the diet totally and forever - intolerances can be 'trained out' after omitting them for some time. With true food allergies - a lot of detective work is involved ..................four years ago my boy went into anaphylactic shock after eating chicken - although he is not allergic to chicken - but he is allergic to what the chicken ate in its lifetime! He can eat day old chicks with impunity - they are not fed prior to dispatch. Do an internet search for ALLERVET and see for yourself - and tell your vet to check it out (we cannot see the vet section). Other places test hair samples - these are not accurate! Can you tell me your dog's symptoms and why you think he has food allergies - in the meantime I will check out some posts for you on natural treatments of environmental allergies - not a speciality for me so need to refresh my memory. As for the red sores round his eyes and mouth - not a usual symptom of allergies - but it IS a tell-tale sign for zinc deficiency. Can you take good photos for me? Most dogs require between 15-20mg of zinc a day - puppies 22-25mg (only around 15% of ingested zinc is actually absorbed by the body) - but huskies have the highest requirement for zinc of any breed of dog ......................... some dogs up to 100mg a day - normal food (kibble of any kind and even commercial wet food) does not provide enough for some huskies. An easy way to check for this is get some zinc based cream and rub into the areas (I believe someting like sudocrem - but check first) - if they lessen or heal - then you KNOW it is a zinc deficiency - and this can be corrected with either food or medication depending on the severity. With you saying he is a picky eater - it sounds like my dog Marley until I found out about the allergies - if it is food allergies then its a long road - but it is possible to treat this totally naturally - without almost any meds - I know because of my own boy. I am also a home herbalist so treat naturally wherever possible - don't get me wrong - vet meds most certainly have their place - and if necessary I can work with most medications - but western medicine concentrates on masking the symptoms - not curing the underlying problem.
    2 points
  14. @wolfpup can you help especially on the food allergies
    2 points
  15. Here is Photographic Paintings, I did with Sofi. We are home visiting with family before we take to the road again. Enjoy.. Add yours below..
    1 point
  16. I am afraid no-one will click onto an unknown link. You could always copy and paste the information if you want other members to read it.
    1 point
  17. This is Dexter.
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. Thank you. She is definitely a Diva 🤣🥰😊 Actually she has an amazing recall. I have been training her since she was 6 months old... Yes she isn't my first Husky or Northern breed, I'm very aware of the Escape Artist kick they get... It just takes consistency. I spent most of my life training gun dogs aka hunting dogs. So when I got my first Northern breed, I realized pretty quickly I needed to change my tactics up... It's just more a work out for her and me.. But we are both really happy 😊 Note: she stays on leash when we are in tight situations like trails. But open ground or waterbank, she is free to run.
    1 point
  20. That's what I'm doing. He needs a behaviourist due to previous owner. I've trained him. However the reactivity is the issue.
    1 point
  21. Sofi looks like an angel. If any dog would settle with a nomadic life - a husky would - (and probably welcome it). One thing to know about huskies though is that they are not normally recommended off-lead - A. because they have the highest prey-drive of any domestic dog, - and B. they are not known for their recall once they reach full adulthood. Saying that - there are always exceptions to the rule ..................... just wish my two were! Will definitely look forward to your photographs of your travels - welcome to the forum.
    1 point
  22. My baby is growing so fast 🥺
    1 point
  23. Thanks for being part of our Husky family Jos.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. It's an official husky what? For nearly a decade now, we have been running an official husky camp for our forum members. This is a chance for people to get to meet in person, and for many a holiday that is easier to do with the dogs. This is done in a way that both people and huskies can enjoy. It was started originally as a way to get around it being difficult to have a holiday with dogs, and make it easier to enjoy due to everyone around you also having dogs of their own. When is it? Husky camp for 2022 will run from Friday 13th-20th May (Friday to Friday) Where is it? The Meadows (this is the field we are generally on, but just ask for where the husky group is staying) Ty Mawr Holiday Park Conwy LL2 9HG What about covid? As much as I wish we had control over this, clearly we don't. I will be adding things related to this at a later point in time, but for now just bear in mind that we have no control (obviously) over what the government decide. We have been restricted on this for 2 years now, and there is nothing to say we wont be next year. Currently there are covid passports required for some events and for nightclubs. Last week that didnt exist. I suspect we will be fine by then, but just bear it in mind. Obviously (or I certainly hope it is) if someone has covid, you would need to remove yourself from camp. If you have it before, you would be expected not to attend. I hope however that this is pretty obvious. How do I book? You can book through their website, which is here https://www.parkdeanresorts.co.uk/location/wales/ty-mawr/ Ring this number to book for some reason the website is playing up there are caravans available 01745832079 (Let them know you want The Meadows Field if you are camping. ) LET ME KNOW ONCE YOU HAVE BOOKED, AND CAN ADD YOUR NAME TO THE LIST Is it just like a 'dog convention' type thing? Far from it LOL. Whenever I explain to people what husky camp is, in the shortest amount of words possible, it tends to be this. We go for walks and stuff during the day, enjoy food together, and generally have a good drink at night. We're about as far from being some boring convention as you could possibly get LOL. Are there many of you go? Am I welcome? Can I bring my partner etc We have had as many as 130 people at camp, and as little as 10. As you can see from that alone, the numbers can vary wildly. No need to ask if you are welcome at camp! Of course you are welcome! partners etc also welcome. All we ask is that you are responsible for the people that you bring (we are respected for being a good set of people, who are clean and tidy at camp, and don't cause trouble), adhere to camp rules, and generally don't give the site a bad name. What facilities are there? Electric hook up Static caravan hire or camping Shower and toilet blocks Eating places on and around camp Swimming pool Play area for the kids if you have any Wifi on site Where do you walk? What do you do? Just to give you a very brief idea of the kinds of things we do, based on years gone by. Some of which we do each year (of course not all). Beach walk Alyn Waters walk Talacre point walk Llandudno walk along the front Aber falls Newborough Forest - Anglesea Pensarn beach Conwy Castle / Conwy walk Sun Set walk Secure offload where all the dogs can be set free to let off some energy Meal over at the local restaurant BBQs done by Barry (small charge to cover costs between us) Breakfasts done by Dunc & Andy (small charge to cover costs between us) Camp fire and drinks at night Adult style pass the parcel (Yes, this really happens, and it hilarious!) Added a few pics here for people who haven't been before, to give you an idea. And also a video of the offlead, which is always fun Not sure who already booked at camp, and who didn't, so let me know if you already have
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. Sunday walk. Along front up to tides. Meet at main campsite buildings area at 1pm
    1 point
  28. It is possible that he is drinking too much too quickly, but just to be on the safe side I would get him checked by another vet if at all possible, just because he is so young.
    1 point
  29. Hello we have 4 dogs all are rescues 2 are huskies 2 seniors we are seniors we would like a camp so we could relax The huskies are too much for ys Susan and Gary Carter Boston Buddy Summit (white) Scout (grey)(blind and deaf on right side) Ps i tried to copy and paste a photo but didnt work out
    1 point
  30. R I P Darwin...Run Free...Run Far...Run Fast...
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Finally booked a Caravan for Camp, bloody expensive . . . .but we'll be there
    1 point
  33. 6ft wooden fencing all around + 6ft double gates Large potted plants in front of the fences blocking a straight run. One escapee from the garden - he once got onto the shed roof and went to visit the next door neighbours. The front door is your most vulnerable exit point though. Our other boy got out through that at 12 weeks old - luckily the postman caught him about 50 yards down the road. We now have dog gates in the hallway guarding the front door, dog gate going to the kitchen (only used when we have visitors), baby gate at the top of the stairs in case one of them gets past the hallway gate (cat living upstairs) and yet another barring the way to the cat's food.
    1 point
  34. Then if he shows no sign of being afraid of the rest of the house or your family, and he is with you guys when awake, then I would not worry. As he gets older he will spend less time sleeping (and you will wish he would go to sleep) - but that pleasure is still to come.
    1 point
  35. I am in the UK and I don't know what country you are in - or what is available in your country. Do an online search for freeze dried raw - read up about it, what you have to do before feeding (i.e. does it require water and leaving for 15 mins before feeding etc). Some members here do feed freeze dried raw - hopefully they will be able to give you some brand names to help you if they spot this post - but again I say that the less added ingredients on the back of the bag - the better quality of the food that is inside the bag. Obviously the more nutritious the food - the more expensive it will be - and the better for your new puppy it will be. Personally I feed raw food - it is what your puppy's ancestors have eaten for approximately the last 4 million years - and for the last 4 million years they have done quite well on it obviously. A lot will depend on your circumstances, the necessity of convenience against affordability to purchase a high quality freeze dried food as against the time it would take to learn the basics of feeding raw food from scratch, - or, if available, to purchase commercially produced frozen raw food for your puppy, i.e. do you have the freezer space to store say a weeks frozen raw food? We all do what we think is best for our dogs, within our financial means and capabilities. The cheapest way to feed your dog the best food is to feed him raw food from scratch (but takes the most effort in researching), second best is commercially produced frozen raw food - coming in a very close third is freeze dried raw 'kibble'. Use any of the three above and you can feel happy that you are doing your best by your dog within your financial means and capability - its all any of us can realistically do.
    1 point
  36. If he is constantly biting - I would seek help. He may have been taken away from his mother too young - between the ages of 6-12 weeks the mother and his siblings teach him a lot about doggie manners - one of the most important being bite inhibition. One of my rescue boys was taken too early (around 5 weeks old I believe) - and he had a problem with nipping. I immediately started yelping like another puppy whenever he nipped me, stopping all interaction, separating him from everything for around 5 minutes. I yelped loudly when he bit hard (high pitch yelp), less loudly when he just nipped - but always put him away from the current interaction (i.e. a puppy pen) - not total isolation. I would walk away from him and refuse to play. It took some time - but he eventually got the message. Other people have differing strategies, but this worked for my boy. I believe that if you do nothing it will only escalate.
    1 point
  37. Booked and paid! Very happy camper here. We can’t wait to see everyone. It is going to blow my dogs minds!. Lucy will be Lucy, Ares had become the gentle but mad giant and then there is........ Khaos. He will speak his mind and likes to sing. If you put a can of beer down, if he can reach, it is his. Unattended cups of tea will be disposed of, coffee is safe. The lovable dumbass will steal your hearts & your beer. Speaking of which, I better start stockpiling. i hope all the dogs remember each other, Lucy’s love/hate relationship with Sabre, Koda leading Ares astray, Darwin and Ares as best mates, Lucy and Simba (oops), a wrestle with Chester for Ares and so many more great moments to revisit.
    1 point
  38. We will have to see…rules, regulations and the small matter of costs…
    1 point
  39. Yay, Andy, Kells Eden Willow Darwin and Storm will be honoured to re-join Husky camp.
    1 point
  40. Spinstorm, There's nothing to worry about! That's the natural color of the skin. My boy Blu has the same color pigment skin on his belly and under the arms and legs 🙂.
    1 point
  41. 😄 I didn't think this would be the place to disuade me !! I think the fact I'm even asking the question means I've already made up my mind. Lets be honest, no other dog even comes close to being a consideration. 😍 How are your 2 beauties doing? I remember their gorgeous faces from before.
    1 point
  42. Hi, I'm BaltoSalisbury. I'm new here. I'm also a first time Siberian Huskey mom. I've never this before, so forgive my fumbling around, lol.... Balto!! He is a bit crazy!
    1 point
  43. Something about his face looks like a 'breed' I've seen which isn't a husky, I can't remember the name of it now (not a Klee Kai - something else). To be honest, if you were concerned about the welfare of the dog, you shouldn't have bought him from there. Buying dogs from places like that just funds them to breed more! They are usually bred in puppy farms, or come from back yard breeders. They are bred in tiny dark cages, the mothers are bred to death, and they are usually separated from their mother too soon. You shouldn't breed a malamute with a husky. Mals are a lot bigger than huskies which is dangerous for the mother. Also it would be unethical of you to breed from a dog that you have no background about. Plus there are so many mals and huskies on rescues because people just get them because they 'are pretty' they have no idea what they are getting them self into. I could never breed my dog for that reason, I would be worried about the pups being sold on or ending up in rescues. I think the best thing you can do is get him neutered, and never buy from a pet shop again Sent from my iPhone using Husky Owners mobile app
    1 point
  44. Reading and interpreting the body language of dogs is very important; it can help you analyze behavioral problems, prevent a dog fight, or simply help you to understand your dog when it tries to communicate with you. I made this little 'guide' to help you interpret your dog's body language; if anybody would like to add anything or correct me (as I'm not perfect!), please feel free. This is just what I have learned from experience by watching dogs at the dog park interact. First of all, a nice little quote on the problem of using the 'Alpha Roll' to correct your dog's problems: Aggressive Dominance - General posture: Stiff-legged, body leaning slightly towards the cause of its behaviour. Hackles can be raised. Body stretched upward to make themselves taller; may slightly stand on toes to do so. Head high. - Eyes: Staring at the object/thing that is the cause of this behaviour. - Ears: Forward - Mouth: Lips curled up into a classic snarl, teeth showing, mouth can be open. - Muzzle: Wrinkled and tight - Tail: High in the air. Stiff. - Vocalizations: Deep growls, loud growls, aggressive barking. Will likely bite/show physical aggression if he is challenged by another dog. NOTE: Truly aggressive-dominant dogs are quite rare, and body signals may be mixed with the 'Fearful-Aggressive (Defensive)' signs. NOTE: Some dogs are leash-aggressive, this does NOT necessarily mean they are dominant. Usually dogs that are leash-aggressive feel 'trapped' because they cannot escape. As in the 'flight or fight' response, because they cannot flee (due to being attached by a leash), they have no other choice than to 'fight' or to show aggressive behaviours. Passive Dominance - General posture: Stiff-legged. Seen stretching the body to be over the other dog's head. - Eyes: Staring at the dog directly. - Ears: Forward - Mouth: closed; unless panting - Muzzle: Smooth. Smells the other dog first; can smell the face first before going to the scent glands near the anus. - Tail: Held high; stiffly wags in a tight arc when smelling dog. Wagging is medium to slow. Limited movement. - Vocalizations: Usually none. Can softly growl? Fearful-Aggressive (Defensive) - General posture: Body is low to the ground. Hackles may or may not be raised. Head low. - Eyes: Pupils are dilated; eyes wide. Eyes are staring at the cause of his fear. - Ears: Back and flat against the head. - Mouth: Lips may be slightly curled (but not as much as a snarl). Teeth also may be showing. - Muzzle: may have slight wrinkles - Tail: Tucked in between legs. Stationary. The amount of 'tuck' indicates the amount of fear...? - Vocalizations: soft growling? Barking? Will most likely bite if it continues to be threatened. Behaviour may also switch to 'Fearful' if it continues to be threatened. Fearful - General posture: Body low to the ground. Head low. - Eyes: Pupils are dilated; eyes wide. Staring at the cause of his fear. Whale eye. - Ears: Back flat against the head. - Mouth: May be panting rapidly. - Muzzle: Wrinkled and tight - Tail: Either completely in between the legs or slightly in between. (varies based on the degree of fear) - Vocalizations: Yelps, whines, yips. Will most likely flee or hide; however behaviour may change to 'Fearful-Aggressive (Defensive)' if it isn't given an option to flee the situation. Figure 4: Notice the lowered body position, the tucked in tail, the bent legs, and the lowered head and ears. This is all to make the dog appear smaller and less of a threat. Passive Submission: - General posture: Body lowered. May look away with head. - Eyes: Eye contact will be brief before they look away; may avoid contact altogether. - Ears: slightly back - Mouth: mouth closed; unless panting. - Muzzle: smooth. Allows other dog to smell first; rarely greets face to face. - Tail: low to the ground or in its normal 'relaxed' position. - Vocalizations: None Figure 5: The husky (right) is showing signs of passive submission to the boxer (left). Notice the hunched over body, the ears straight back touching the neck/head, the loose posture, and the low tail. Taken from a video I took myself, the tail was wagging (not really fast, but not slow) in a wide arc. Active Submission - General posture: Body is lowered; head is lowered. A front paw can be lifted either slightly or all the way off the ground. - Eyes: Eye contact is very brief; may be reluctant to maintain eye contact or they look away frequently from your gaze. - Ears: Back - Mouth: Licking the more dominant dog's chin (or, if your a person, licking your chin if they can reach!) - Muzzle: smooth/relaxed - Tail: low to the ground. - Vocalizations: Can whine. Complete Submission - General posture: Rolled over on back, showing his jugular and stomach. Head turned to completely avoid eye contact. May sprinkle some urine. Allows more dominant dog to stand over him. - Eyes: Slightly closed. - Ears: Back; flat against head. - Mouth: closed; unless panting - Muzzle: Smooth - Tail: In between legs as far as it'll go. - Vocalizations: Long whines, yelps. Playful Usually 'invites' play by play bowing. (lowering self's nose towards the ground; butt high in air. Tail wagging). Can hold play bow until other dog responds with their own bow, or release it right away when other dog does not respond. - General posture: Relaxed. Pace is bouncy when running/trotting. Might jump in the air while running. May also roll around on the ground (scent rolling), with tongue lolling out of mouth. - Eyes: normal/relaxed - Ears: relaxed - Mouth: Closed, usually panting. If play fighting, teeth may show, but no other signs of aggression (no growling, etc.). Tongue is loose; may loll out of mouth. - Muzzle: Smooth - Tail: varying levels of height depending on their current mood during play. Can be wagging quickly. - Vocalizations: Playful growls (soft, broken up), yips, yowls, barks. Figure 8: the Siberian Husky in this photograph is inviting the other dog to play. Relaxed - General posture: Relaxed. Loose. - Eyes: Normal; blinks slowly. May have half-lidded eyes if lying down. - Ears: 'normal' position. - Mouth: Closed, or panting. Tongue may be loose. - Muzzle: Smooth - Tail: in the 'normal' position. - Vocalizations: Usually no sound. Figure 9: The Siberian Husky in the photo is relaxed. Note the partly closed eyelids and the loose tongue. Happy/Excited Similar to 'playful' - General posture: Relaxed position. Pace may be bouncy or feel 'light' - Eyes: wide eyes; but relaxed. - Ears: back, touching head. - Mouth: Usually open, with tongue loose. May loll out of mouth. Dogs that are not properly trained will mouth your body (usually hands) and loose clothing or lightly nip at them. - Muzzle: Smooth - Tail: wagging rapidly in wide arcs. Loose movement. - Vocalizations: Excited yips, yowls, woos, howls, barks. Hunting - General posture: Body low to the ground. Walking very slowly. Places steps deliberately and slowly as to not make a sound. Freezing position when the animal turns to look at them; resumes stalking towards animal if it looks away and does not flee. - Eyes: Staring at the animal. - Ears: Perked; erect and pointing towards prey. - Mouth: Immediately stops panting if they were. Mouth closed. - Muzzle: Smooth - Tail: Can be lowered, to help one look smaller to aid in stealth. Can also be stiffly held straight backwards. - Vocalizations: None. Very soft and quiet breathing. Pain Depending on the degree of pain and where it hurts, their reaction to pain tends to differ. This part's format will be different than previous...as the previous formats are not applicable. In general, most dogs try to hide their pain - and are very effective at it! Most, from my experience, don't vocalize their pain unless it REALLY hurts (like a broken bone.) You might notice small differences in their movements - for example, if they are experiencing arthritis in one of their hips, you might notice a very slight limp. The dog would favour that leg and use the other legs more - this is seen by the difference in muscle mass. The leg that is hurt would have less muscle mass than the other legs because it is not being used as often. You also might notice behaviour changes. Maybe they are walking a little slower than usual, not pulling as hard, or falling behind slightly on walks. They might have difficulty going up stairs, or they might have difficulty getting up from the lying down position. Their appetite might have decreased. In summary, the following is a list of behavioural changes you might notice when your dog is hurt or suffering: - Loss of appetite - Stumbling - Having trouble getting up/down stairs. - Difficulty in getting up (from sitting or lying down) - Reluctance to exercise - Reluctance to play - Temperament changes - more aggressive or very timid - Lethargic - Favouring a certain part of the body - Atrophied muscle of the favoured limb (if applicable) due to favouring it. - Swelling of the hurt joint/muscle/limb - Bleeding (Anyone is free to add to this list!) In addition to different types and classifications of pain, there's also the sudden pain reactions (like whining, whimpering, or yelping) or the more-difficult-to-spot gradually increasing pain. Also, different breeds have different pain thresholds (or the amount of pain they can stand before they start showing signs). Breeds that were bred to fight, for example the Pit Bull breeds, would have a higher pain threshold (and therefore not show as many signs - or none at all!) than a breed that has been bred to do something else. Other Misc Behaviours... Scent-Marking There are many ways for dogs to mark their scent: scratching the ground, urinating on objects (usually vertical objects, if possible, with their leg hiked if they are more of the dominant type), and scent-rolling. Scratching the ground usually occurs after the dog pees on an object, although it can occur just by itself. Up to 4 paws can scratch the ground, although some dogs only use the 2 hind paws. The paws contain glands that secrete the dog's individual scent; the scraping action stimulates these glands to create more 'scent' to wipe on the ground. Another method of scent-marking is by urinating on an object. In either sex, the dog will lift its leg up (hike it up) to mark on the object - that is usually vertical. The higher the dog lifts its leg, the more dominant it is trying to be as it would want its scent to be as high as possible. In more dominant dogs, the dog might 'mark' or pee over another dog's urine or it might pee on a lot of objects (like, for example, on a walk or at the dog park.), or it might 're-urinate' over the objects it already urinated on. A 3rd method of scent-marking is by rolling around on the ground. This spreads their scent over a wider area than the 'urine' method or the 'scraping' method. They can roll over multiple times, or just once.The dog can also do this in play, however. Humping/Mounting - Why does my dog do it? Please read the following link - it contains 4 pages of an article that explains why they hump and how its a perfectly normal behavior. (But, you can still correct it if you don't like it.) www.husky-owners.com/forum/index.php?/topic/42769-humping-why-do-they-do-it For more visual aids on dog body language, please visit these 2 excellent threads: http://www.husky-owners.com/forum/threads/listen-by-looking.36065/ http://www.husky-owners.com/forum/threads/let-me-hear-your-body-talk.36072/
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy , along with dressing your husky as a unicorn on the first Thursday of each month